Tony Prodigy

I'm still hanging to be able to pick up one of those temporary carports from SCA. They were on special last month for $189 and I just missed out. They're back to their full mug retail cost of $299. No way in hell I'm paying that... If you see it on special before I do can someone let us know please ? They seem to hold up pretty well from reading the reviews. Just need to upgrade the cover fabric to the more durable green one when the white one deteriorates. People are reporting up to 3 years life span for the cover and the frame is exceptionally strong able to withstand wind gusts etc.. Those fold away gazebo type shelter are rubbish. I purchased one to set up in my driveway as a temporary shelter for an old ford I have and within two weeks, and a little wind and rain, it buckled and collapsed and the fabric tore to shreds. It was the Kings brand from Ebay. I strongly do not recommend it. The SCA one looks to be better designed with better support for the top so the rain can simply run off and not actually pool up anywhere creating a heavy spot for the frame to collapse. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/coverall-coverall-temporary-carport----3m-x-6m-x-2.7m/164891.html#q=tempory%2Bcarport&lang=en_AU&start=1

Try this first. The engine will never die on you with this fault condition, so don't worry too much about that. The CEL and VSC will just keep lighting up as a nuisance reminder. Engine codes can be misleading and send you down a rabbit hole of shot gunning different parts. Don't take as Gospel in some cases what the reader throws up. You need to more research before you ultimately decide what it is that needs replacing.

I've never looked into this myself to be honest. If I have time, I'll have a look and see what it's all about.

It really does pay to use quality oil and regular maintenance on the 2GR-FE. Once Toyota improved the reliability of the VVTi oil lines the engine was virtually indestructible. Just don't skimp on oil changes and it will last a very, very long time.

I actually watched that video too Ash. Interesting about the filter mesh in the reservoir too. Luckily for me I don't have to worry about power steering maintenance as the 50 series Aurion use electric power assisted steering and not hydraulic. 😜

Camry and Aurion parts are different both in design and shape. The base car Aurion was designed around the Camry architecture but differs at the front and rear cosmetically, including the interior. Drivetrains were specific only to the Aurion as they were only V6 as you know. I'm not sure either if the Sportivo grille from the Aurion will fit the Presara in the 40 series, but looking at the lines of the grilles on both I can't see why the two can't be interchanged. I don't think Toyota would've bothered too much to retool a special front bumper/grille treatment just for the Presara. They gave it a fancy chrome grille and figured that would be sufficient. The lines all seem to match up ok. Take a look at the photos below and study the lines of both grille sections. The last picture is that of the Chinese version of the Aurion 40 series, although it was marketed as a Camry there. PRESARA SPORTIVO CHINESE CAMRY

First of all, let me say a warm welcome to you Darren. I've never had the misfortune to have fiddled with this particular control, but I could take a stab and say that the LED lights would be governed by the internal PCB. These cars are modern enough not to have globes, but in saying that, the LEDs need to be driven by a power source, so it makes sense for the light to turn on when the rotary switch is activated. It's all done via the PCB within. It could be a cold solder joint that's stopped the signal path to the LED. If you have a spare control unit, you could swap it out and tinker with the original unit and see if it comes back to life. It could also be something as simple as a dodgy pin connection at the socket. Ash mentioned his started working again after having removed it and it was probably this action that allowed that connection to work again.

I've always had Michelin's on mine and the grip has been very good. Despite this, you still need to finesse the right foot application on the powerful 2GR-FE V6. Stomping your right foot with 300 horsepower front wheel drive car, it will most certainly protest mate. Be patient and gradually increase the throttle once it's underway to avoid tramping wheel spin off the mark. The previous posts are spot on the money.

If it's diesel, then it would definitely have to be a turbo diesel. Non turbo is rubbish. Pure slug box. My 2020 Holden Colorado pulls like a train and is quite nippy off the mark surprisingly. It's similar to the D-Max I had previously only much nicer and smoother. The D-Max was very agricultural and loud. The new gen D-Max seems to be much better than its predecessor although I've never been in one. Our company assures me that the next round of vehicles we'll be getting is Hilux.. Don't mind if I do !! 😍 I assume you were talking about diesel.

It might help to remove the motor, open it up and clean the gears inside. There could be old, dried up grease in there causing it to stick OR it could have broken a tooth and it's lodged in there good. You won't know for sure until you open it. I don't think it's an electrical issue as you mentioned that it does go down but with a clicking noise and nothing when trying to go back up. If you have power on either side of the switch, then the switch is good. The switch only serves to reverse the polarity of the motor. If it goes one way then it should go the other way if the gears are unobstructed. I'm having a similar issue in my BMW where the motor is jammed. Press the button either way and all you hear is a click. It's trying to move the gears, but something is preventing this. I have a new motor to replace it, but I'll be opening it up first to see what the heck is going on for sure before I decide on using the new motor. It's a common problem unfortunately.

Not being overly familiar with your specific engine, has your mechanic probed around using a multi meter ? He needs to check and see if the voltage is making its way to the coil first. It should be 12v, then the coil transforms this to the higher voltage your dizzy needs. If the coil and dizzy has been replaced and still no spark, that tells me you have no juice at or before the coil. It could be a control module perhaps or something really silly. You need to trace the wiring back and carefully inspect connections for corrosion and for any breaks or even a loose ground wire. I'd also check the ignition relay and main relays. I think those are located near the battery. Going back to a points dizzy won't help if you have no juice and a points dizzy is not an option compared to the efficiency of an electronic one. I hope you get it sorted. Please let us know if you do. Cheers

I'd like to know what he called us in that last expletive. I will hold back my rant for obvious reasons... O.P. If you don't like it here, and you are looking for V.I.P treatment, then go find yourself a facebook, twitter, twatter, tik tok, or whatever else millennial platform you can find and perhaps you may find the joy you're looking for there. We all try our best to help each other here and unfortunately, sometimes, we don't have answers to every question that comes onboard. It's a case of sit tight and wait. We all have day jobs, families etc and sometimes don't have the time to check in. We don't live to serve you or anyone in particular and there's no instant gratification on forums. If you've been around long enough to know this, then I'm not sure why you'd be upset because nobody came to your rescue after only one day. You really need to chill out mate and probably apologise if you plan on sticking around. If not, then you know what you can do.

Congratulations Forums alone are sometimes not the best place to look. I have had luck with Ebay, but never thought to place a wanted ad. Good thinking.

Same here Rob. Weeks of continuous/ intermittent rain and the tyranny of life events have hindered my routine. My coating has long since gone to God mate. It's flat as a tack right now. I have some Avalonking Armour Shield ceramic coating sitting here, so I might as well put it to work. I'm going to get a friend to help me with this one as it's going to require more elbow grease then normal. Full decontamination, clay bar, machine polish, coating including the wheels. Engine bay will also get a clean too. Then there's the interior.... I might tackle that before I head over to his place for the exterior treatment. For sure mate. There will be quite a few I imagine 😄

I've been pretty slack of late. Haven't washed the Aurion in months I'm planning a full decon and paint correction soon with the view to apply a ceramic coating so it's more robust protection and aid in making my maintenance washes a little easier. I'll post up when I do,

Just had a quick look on Repco's site and I never knew they sold the "Bigboi" range of blower dryers. I purchased a four stage blower some years ago, I think off ebay, and it's been very handy, especially when detailing an engine bay. Some of you may not be familiar with these machines. They don't just blow air but rather warm filtered air so not only can you get the drying done faster, you don't blow dust over the surface you're drying. Very nice machine. There are a couple of other brands on the market too, but I found this particular one to be slightly better in construction, especially the quality of the hose and the attachments. https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care-panel/power-cleaning/vacuum-cleaners-air-blowers/bigboi-blowr-pro-drying-system-9m-hose-bonus-pro9moffer/p/A5542994

This might help you unless you want OEM Genuine Parts from Toyota https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334519428730?hash=item4de2e9667a:g:I0gAAOSwiyFi57EL

And rightly so. Congratulations Craig. Your perseverance has paid off and this will no doubt pave the way for others to follow. Good thing with NCAT/QCAT etc, is that there is NO Appeal ! Decisions are final. When will the work begin you think ?? Have you any particular shop in mind or will Toyota be handling the process ? Toyota should've just done the honourable thing and fess up and own the issue from the start instead of having the affected people go through all the stress and energy to fight them on this. You should post up some photos ( if you already haven't) of the current state of your vehicle and then a follow up set when it's all done. It would be nice to see the car in it's new skin. Well done

Haha, nice video ash. I've watched a few of his videos in recent times. He certainly knows his way around engines and knowledgeable too. It looks like it got the upgraded water pump, but it was too late by then lol... Bonus for him too as he can keep it for his car, as he stated 😁 I don't think he likes his wife all that much either, cos in all his videos, he always references using his "wife's" dresses for mopping up the oil mess 😆 The owner of that engine drove it to death while the pump was leaking, slowly losing coolant over time elevating the engine temperature. Such a shame because the the top end was practically mint. You can see how the sludge started forming in the sump and around the skirts of the pistons as a result of the coolant mixing into the oil, burning off, and finding its way into the lower sections. Higher than normal operating temperature over time warping the block creating seepage. It's a shame it took Toyota this long to provide an upgraded water pump. I wonder how many other 2GR's grenaded due to the rubbish water pumps before this. Nevertheless, He's pretty impressed by how well built and strong the 2GR-FE is, but they do have their vulnerabilities with the complex lubricating system, which is why you need to keep on top of the maintenance, especially the regular oil changes ! 6 bolt mains too !! 💪

You can add Nulon to that list too. They make excellent products. Support local industry. Penrite and Nulon.

Hi there and welcome to the forum. Firstly let me start by saying, that in order to achieve the best level of help you should start your own thread as it can be much more visible to everyone and not tucked away like it is here in someone else's thread. I only came across this by chance. Now, to the important task. The problem here is that the car is becoming extremely rare and finding parts for that particular Celica is also extremely difficult. That signal lamp is one piece so there is no cover so to speak. You will have to buy the whole indicator assembly. Our local market is pathetic to say the least, so I always end up having to look abroad. The U.S. is a huge market and as always, I always end up finding something there. Not cheap, but at least it will get you out of trouble. I took the liberty of searching out Ebay and did come across only a couple of options. Not cheap, and rightly so, when there isn't much left in the world at this point in time offered for sale. You'll have to have an Ebay account if you wish to proceed with the purchase. This is all I could find: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165574881636?hash=item268d083164:g:bwkAAOSwST1izgP1 There was another listing for both right and left, with the right one having too much crazing on it but the left one being quite nice. Not worth buying the pair just for the good one. See here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314032741366?hash=item491dcf5bf6:g:hKAAAOSw2INipPOq Good luck with it and drive that car carefully, if you have too, because if you break things on it, just remember the nightmare trying to find parts.

I will politely say, good luck with that, mainly due to its age and relative popularity. Your best bet would be to scour the internet continuously until something pops up. I seriously doubt anyone here would have one let alone know of a source. I'd also look to other markets where that vehicle was known in too. Did it make it to the U.S I wonder.

What Ashley said. Typically on smaller engines with the usual spin on cartridge filters. a universal filter removal tool will be fine. It will have plenty of adjustment to accommodate even the smallest filter. I purchased one of those way back when I owned a 95 model RAV. I still have it somewhere. Think I got it from Repco way back and it's still in top shape as I last recall. Very high quality item before the proliferation of the cheap china made stuff we never see the end of today.

Nothing like a good driveway raising to make it all better haha. 🤣😛

Definitely sounds like a fuel related issue. A thorough check of the fuel system should reveal the root cause.