Tony Prodigy

Deadly alright. I don't know what Toyota were thinking designing a ticking time bomb like that Rob. There is no excuse really for someone to think that passing hot engine oil through a rubber hose would be a good idea right ? I don't understand how management signed off on it at the time either. Was there a recall on this as there was for the VVTI lines ? I don't remember. Anyway, the metal replacement part was what they should've used in the place. Better late than never I guess 🤪

I suspect now that there may be a misalignment of the new compressor when it was installed. I also wonder if the new compressor was like for like..

It's hard to say exactly as that one indication could reveal a dozen items for potential cause. Fault codes can be deceiving too. It's just not always a black and white solution. Sure, If it states a misfire, then the likely culprit could be the coil, but it also could be an intermittent spark plug issue or an injector that's over fueling. See what I mean ? Not sure how many kays are your '07 Aurion, but I'd like to ask when you last replaced your spark plugs and your in tank fuel filter. It's also possible your injectors could need a clean too.

I'd avoid those cheap chinese coils. They're more trouble then they're worth. You'll find that you'll be changing them out more often than not due to the cheap, rubbish construction and quality. Stick with OEM parts for ultimate quality and reliability.

I'm staggered how Toyota didn't bother with a cabin filter for the Hilux of that generation. It's pure contempt in my opinion, that it would be deemed unnecessary because it's a utilitarian vehicle, and such people are not worthy of filtered cabin air ?? Back to my point... What you saw in the window would have been a full sight glass. The liquid drier ( which has the sight glass) will still indicate as full because if there's icing up occurring at the evap coil, this means the refrigerant isn't boiling off and is remaining mostly as a liquid and as such will back up. During normal operation, you will tend to see some bubbling in the sight glass due to varying demands in load, or it can be slightly undercharged. Car refrigeration systems are what they call a critical charge and they have to be charged to an exact gram. Anything over or under will affect efficiency. I applaud your effort to correct something that should never have occurred in the first place. I'd try and custom fit a filter if there was room enough to do it so prevent having to do this procedure again.

Any link ?

Very expensive. I guess if you had the time you could try and make them yourself.

Hi Emily, Are you sure you want to sell them ? If it was me, I'd keep them stored and when you decide to eventually sell the vehicle, they will certainly add more value than not having them. You may regret selling them, so have a good think about it before taking the plunge, especially if they're in excellent condition.

Haha, that'll do it. Good job with the reflow. It usually helps cure those cold joints. The manufacturer probably used unleaded solder, which is prone to cracking over time.

Sounds like it may have a vacuum issue, bad hose or check valve perhaps ?? Did you get it looked at yet ? I really doubt it. Brakes, if it has ABS, would be on an entirely different system and you'll have an ABS warning light to indicate this. Check engine light is telling you that something has occurred on the engine side.

It's the best alternative to an "engine out" job. Just make sure everything is perfectly clean with brake cleaner before applying RTV. Doesn't need to be anything special, just buy a quality, name brand RTV.

Don't let that bring you down. It's not a common issue but what engine is perfect ? It's a small percentage of engines that can have more issues than others. 150K is really nothing for a 2GR-FE. Mine is fast approaching that and I can honestly say, that all is ok still, knock on wood. I have oil and coolant to do soon. Been putting it off as I've been ill with Covid for the last week and a half. It really saps your energy. Hopefully soon I will post up having completed these.

Hey Big Mike, I'm glad you got it sorted mate. Sometimes first impressions are not always right, right ?? Wheel bearings are not a common failure point, especially on Toyota's. Shocks are much more likely to fail way before anything else really. They do a lot of hard work. Stay safe mate

I'd say that's a bargain. It's a job I'd hate to do too, so I'd be glad to let someone else do it for me at that price. Just make sure they fasten the boots with the correct stainless fasteners. It should come with the kit. I have seen idiots tie down the boots with cable ties !! Arrghh !!. Unacceptable in my books. Take some photos of your original drive shafts including the boot for reference..

What checks have you performed ?

Pretty certain it's a regular 4 speed auto. I can't see how a CVT can work with 4WD anyway. https://www.auto123.com/en/new-cars/technical-specs/toyota/rav4/2006/base/base/

These can be tricky to diagnose, but I do know that if the system has lower than normal voltage, ie, a weak battery, it can start throwing random fault conditions. Start with an electrical system check to avoid shot gunning it. Check alternator charging and battery load. If all checks ok, then move onto the next stage. A scan can reveal a lot of information, but can be tricky in narrowing down a specific component. An experience technician will be able to help you with this and be careful it doesn't send you down a rabbit hole.

I can't see the problem with that pod filter. It's just a filter and the cold air intake is actually an improvement over stock. The engine can run more efficiently despite whatever token HP it adds. I think the road authority would be more concerned if you modify the overall engine in terms of big horsepower thus having a car in the hands of a young, inexperienced driver that could have potential for disaster. Keep it simple for now as you have obviously chosen to do and when you are older and have your full license, then you can go nuts and build the car you always wanted. Drive safe mate.

Hi Catherine, I feel for you in this frustrating dilemma. I don't have much knowledge in this particular model of Toyota to offer a definitive response, but I would probably seek out information on how many Toyota engines from that period use that same carburetor. This can widen your search other than for a van for instance. Can I ask what is wrong with the one he has ? Is it not salvageable ? If it is, and he can get a full rebuild kit for it, I would highly recommend it be fully disassembled and all parts cleaned using an ultrasonic cleaner. The are a few air and fuel passages within the body that can be partially blocked and these need to be thoroughly cleaned for optimum performance. 20lt per 100 kays is a lot of fuel, even for a 1.3 litre. Is he sure it's not leaking fuel ?

This is correct for a factory fitted towbar. I also believe that would be the standard fitting practice as it allows for a better ground clearance. The one you saw that comes in under the bumper without the cut out, will for sure, have less ground clearance, especially when leaving or entering a banked driveway. It will hit for sure unless the vehicle has been raised to compensate.

Ouch !!! How did he come to that conclusion ? You can remove the cat yourself to inspect it and see in in fact it is compromised. It's very uncommon for the cat on a stock vehicle to go bad. I would be very surprised actually. If it's clogged, It can be cleaned. There are many youtube DIY's on youtube. As for the fuel pump relay, I'm not 100% for Camry, but I do know it can be either in the engine bay on the passenger side compartment, or behind the glove box or driver's side under the dash. You've checked behind the glovebox, but did you look elsewhere ? The owners manual would also help. I suspect you don't have one.

Haha, I watched that video yesterday morning. He certainly makes a good point on trying to stay with original parts or high quality aftermarket, especially the filter housing, be it "aloooominum" or plastic. He proved that with that rubbish Dorman product too. Why would you buy a Dorman for the same money it would cost for an Original ? I understand if one is stuck and can't get to a dealership, but under normal circumstances, that would be a no brainer. I have a spare brand new filter housing, just in case. Nothing worse than needing something that can't wait...

Ended up getting a new Century Battery from SCA a few days back. They had them on special and I was able to get the exact same one (55D23L) for $146, down from $208. I'll keep an eye on the existing one and swap it out when the need arises. At the very least, I won't be stuck if it happens to cack itself.

I have to agree with that. Just thinking about this process again, The low tension ring allowing the thin oil to pass through it, with the addition of it being constantly superheated around the oil control rings begins the festering process of sludge build up irrespective of how many oil changes are done hence gumming up and eventually seizing the oil rings. I'm staggered how the so called engineers failed to see through the concept and consequence of using such a low tension ring. There are other ways to improve fuel efficiency without sacrificing engine reliability and creating liability too. Sheesh.

I suspect, that despite the design issue of the low tension piston ring, owners have inadvertently relied on the stupid log book service interval which is far too late to be doing an oil change in the beginning, and this in fact was setting up this engine for premature failure. I would wonder though, that despite that very design issue, if the oil was changed regularly at a much lower interval, like 5k or so, could the prevention of sludge and varnish still still have the engine burn oil ? I wonder if owners of that engine have reported oil burning issues even with a meticulous oil change regime of 5k or thereabouts.. That job the CCN did on that Corolla was a mammoth undertaking and totally avoidable, but good on Toyota for acknowledging the problem. My theory is that they always try to appease their biggest market, which is the U.S. of course, and so I highly doubt we got this TSB here. We're small fish compared to America. If we need something done, we have to fight it out with our dealer networks and waste valuable time in QCAT and NCAT etc and hope it goes our way.