Tony Prodigy

I suspect all the relevant hardware should be supplied with the roof rack kit. The factory don't provide it because there are numerous types of roof racking available and therefore it's incumbent on the manufacturer to provide the correct hardware, not only for fitment purposes, but to ensure it's safely fixed into position.

Just hang onto them Jaimi. You will eventually need them and when you do they will be much more expensive. Just a thought.

Depends on your budget too. If you are able to purchase new, then I would definitely get the latest gen model. I have a close friend who has one on order.

I can't be certain if Aurions after 04/2015 had a silastic sealant for the pan, because the parts search for the pan gasket for the 50 series Aurion states that it is available for the years listed below. The numbers in blue is the actual part number. If for example, Toyota decided to do away with the gasket and use silastic on models after 2015, it would probably just make sense to use a gasket anyway, as going forward, the pan will need to be removed again anyway right ? Who wants to spend time cleaning residual silastic. It's a PITA. 3516833080 GASKET, AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE OIL PAN 35168A GSV50 1 02.2012 - 04.2015 There is definitely a gasket on mine and it is most likely that Duraprene gasket you mentioned. It is black in colour, thin and looks to be quite robust for what it is. As I said, i was tempted to re-use it but ended up using the gasket provided in the aftermarket service kit. Since then I did purchase a new Genuine gasket. It's here somewhere. I'll use this on the next service.

Perfect ! Thanks Steve ! Exactly what I was looking for. I can now pin point the exact items, even down to the quantity of screws and other miscellaneous hardware fixtures that are a pain to look for without having to get under the car.

Hey guys, does anyone know how to tap into Toyota's database to be able to search out specific parts and part numbers ?? It doesn't look as easy as it should and was wondering how others went about doing this ? For a motorcycle owner, which I am, I can pick practically any part, with part number, availability and price for my Kawasaki bike with great ease, but when it comes to Toyota, sheesh !! I need to price up a few bits and pieces and I hate always having to contact Toyota and then play the waiting game. Thanks

Hey Buddy. Welcome to the forum. I don't know all that much about the 86's but what I do know is if you are planning on buying a new one or not, but the word is that the 2022 models are far more superior than it's predecessors. Here's a video from our favourite Youtuber, The Car Care Nut, who goes into some detail on the latest model.

Good work Ash. Haven't heard from you in a while. Hope everything's ok mate. Did your reservoir have that strainer in it the Car care Nut spoke about ?

No Sir. It isn't the case at all. Those threaded sections are NOT through holes. They are cast in the head so you can be able to bolt on other accessories. The two towards the rear are for brackets. One is for some tubing and the other is possibly cruise control. Your's has neither. The front two, again, potentially same as the rears, but in all the pictures I can see, there is nothing bolted there. The oil you are seeing is the rocker cover gasket leaking. That's it. If you have concerns there may be an issue, Take it back to your mechanic and ask him. I don't think they would simply remove pieces from the engine just for the sake of it. It may have a turbo issue that you're not aware of. Has it started to blow any smoke of any kind ?? If you're down on power and torque, then the turbo would be the first place I'd have inspected. They don't last a very long time and are prone to failure, especially the seals and bearings. Take a look at the two pictures I've attached and see for yourself. It's the best I could find. This link has one for sale. Hover over the pictures and see the brackets attached to the very holes you speak of. https://www.jdmwestcoast.com/jdm-toyota-1kz-hilux-surf-4runner-3-0l-1kzte-turbo-diesel-awd-auto-trans.html

OK. Has anyone done any electrical work to it recently ?? Are you saying that the blower and the headlights stay on even with the key off on the ignition ?? It could be a dodgy switch on the climate control too. Just go through the process of elimination. Sounds like more electrical gremlins. Start with the simpler things first, like the relays. The relay box, I presume in your Hilux, would be in the engine bay somewhere ?? I'm not too familiar with the layout of your particular model. It could also be inside under the driver or passenger footwell area just under the dash. Perhaps other Hilux owners of the same vintage can chime in.

Judging from the "mating surfaces" of those threaded holes, i'd say there was nothing attached there to begin with. If you look closer, you can see the amount of corrosion on the mating surface matches the rest of the metal surface adjacent to them. If there was something attached, then those mating surfaces would be clean and shiny, right ? They can't get corroded if something is covering them. Also, that oily residue is your rocker cover gasket weeping ever so slightly. Doesn't look too bad to worry about, but you can have them check it and see what they reckon. Should be ok in my book. If you report that you've lost torque, then it's going to be another issue all together. If it was performing better before the last service, then yes, take it back.

Hi Billy, it's possible you have a bad relay in your system. Find the relay that governs the headlights and pull it when you have the headlights on. The contacts within the relay could've welded together or the possibly collapsed and as such are still making contact. It can also be a defective stalk.

I feel your frustration. To be honest, I have never found it so difficult to find much information for 50 series compared to 40 series. But saying that, I think you might have some luck with the Haynes repair manuals. Pretty sure they cover wiring diagrams for what you're looking for. Maybe others who have a copy can verify this, but this is the one I'm referring to. https://haynes.com/en-au/toyota/aurion/2006-2013-0

Hi Adam, Those air dry fresheners are rubbish. They only mask the smell. You could have mold or other airborne contamination inside your evaporator. If it's possible to get access to the internals of the evap coil, you could clean and deodorize it and hopefully that should cure the smell. I think you should be able to insert a tube in through the filter access door and try to aim it directly to the coil itself. The excess water will drain via the condensate drain tube. There's also another solution to combat interior smells and that's using an ozone generator. They're inexpensive and I've heard good reviews about the use of these. Look into it and see what you think. A word of caution is to NOT be inside the vehicle when the device is running. Observe all cautionary advice associated with "Ozone Generators" Here's one example on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165658646353?hash=item2692065751:g:Q0MAAOSwnFNjE~iy&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4D9195cjZ9ZhaVXcFt4jPFODVWBBL27G0YbEBcgGni1ThhS0fQSJT3Kzahsc2%2B1Ef6n3h2bntjo7FIfDJTQVkWq%2BzfsT%2BjEYA6M6qA%2BoNH0vInFVh%2F7SFE3c8mT39ka5OCU5MyCJjQlfx%2FeFZd9LuWGvBWORwlGo%2FeKX4vMq1qB4ZxsZjCfaQ%2FVmojCH9MKGrLT2l2rwIy2SrSoCG4dBEhjoLuSXLplZ3%2FvL4omBWdDBr1Y4DjgYc83DQmgY4X71NORppGA2ouEImtjvxK36SN1hVvFFyFAiHjpoxAyZrqaO|tkp%3ABFBMsvW5lu5g

Hey Jimi, I suspect you got a Lackey answer the phone that day. I'd ring around a few other dealerships and see which one gives you the best vibe. As they are all franchised, one bad egg doesn't mean they're all bad. Have your questions ready in point form if you feel you may forget to ask something and make it clear to whoever you speak to what you will get for the transmission service. If they're not forthcoming with the scope of works, you then tell them what you expect and if Genuine parts will be used, ie, pan gasket and WS Fluid. The pan gasket could be reusable perhaps if it doesn't break ?? Not 100% sure about it. I do recall though that the original pan gasket is pretty robust in quality and if you had to reuse it, I don't really see a problem with it, but for the money, and whilst it's apart, you should replace it, given the kays it's got on it anyway.

Now that's pretty interesting. Just goes to show that sometimes you can't rely on fault codes alone to figure out the issue. Sometimes it does and in this case, clearly doesn't. It makes sense though. If the system voltage is down, it can create false triggers on those items that rely heavily on accurate voltage to maintain optimal conditions. The O2 sensors being one such system. Thanks for the update Hugh

I think I understand what you have there. It's called "Throtle Lag". My Diesel does it too as do most other vehicles, but I feel that the diesel cars do it far worse. This is because you have an electronic throttle, (no more hard cable), It's what's called "fly by wire" accelerator and when you put the boot into it, it does nothing for a second or two. The onboard computer does all these calculations before it allows the engine to accelerate. This is normal, albeit frustrating, but there are aftermarket gadgets you can buy to cure this. Here's a video explaining this process a bit further.

Price gouging. They're probably going out of business.

Sounds very reasonable Jimi. I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt and hope they aren't just giving lip service. I sincerely hope they pop the pan off and do what's required. It is necessary, not only to be able to clean the potential sediment, but to be able to visually inspect the valve body and to be able to access the strainer too. There's always the subsequent service that can pick up the fact if the pan was removed, cleaned along with the magnets, because the micro filings attached to the magnets will give a good indicator if they were recently cleaned or not. They can't accumulate 8 years worth in say 2 or less years. You'll be able to tell. I'd be more comfortable if Toyota did it as they will use Genuine Parts, including WS fluid. For that price, I say go for it. They'd hate to have me as a customer. I'm way too pedantic and I'll be questioning every inch of a duck's &ss to make sure they do the right thing 😄😛

Howdy good people. I came across this video which explains the various 2GR offerings Toyota has and for which vehicles they belong to. I hope you find it as interesting as I did.

Hahaha, I wish I could, but I have enough on my plate, my car is also overdue for a couple of things too and I'm finding it hard to get to them without the constant distractions and workload elsewhere.. Makes it all the more difficult when you can't get any help. Have to do everything myself. It will be written on the back of the container. I do know for a fact that the Penrite ATF LV is 100% compatible. Not sure which other ones exist as I never searched them out. I was happy enough to stick with Penrite. Perhaps others can chime in with their thoughts on product compatibility. Certainly worth asking. At least you'll know they will use the original WS fluid. But make sure you ask to be 100% sure. I can't see them using aftermarket fluid to be honest. They have trained techs who know these platforms inside out, so they will be across the proper procedure. Just talk to the advisor and ask the same questions you would any other shop. I'd be interested to know how much they'd charge.

Hey Jimi. Yes, you definitely want to service the transmission, despite the stupid "lifetime fluid" rubbish that gets bandied around. 148K is a bit longer than normal if it's the first service but by no means too late. If the car has had an easy life and not driven hard or towed with, then you could easily get away with a full flush rather than a pan drain. When people advise against a full flush is when the transmission has high kilometers on it, especially if it's had a hard life and the fluid is burnt bown. The reasoning is that during the course of it's life the friction material from the bands circulate within the transmission fluid and by default help to keep the gears shifting correctly by virtue of the friction material being in the fluid to begin with. If you fully flush it, you essentially remove the friction material the transmission has been relying on to aid shifts and then you introduce a new environment the transmission isn't familiar with. You lose the added material and hence start getting slippage or strange shift patterns. That's the worst case scenario. 148K on a transmission is by far not even close to that. I would still do a full flush if you can find a reputable service centre able to do it correctly and use the correct fluid. After this you can then do a periodic pan drain, say every two years and depending on how many kays you do in a given year. If you don't want to do the full flush, a Pan drain is also acceptable and will be cheaper to do, of course. You will just need to do them more often, say annually. The pan drain is a much simpler process. Whatever you take out is what you put back in. You don't necessarily need to do a level adjustment at 42 degrees etc.. Assuming the level was correct to start with, you can put back the measured amount back in and your golden. It wouldn't hurt to do the level check just to be sure, but I doubt there'd be any discrepancy. Those fluids you specified that the service guys mentioned, I'd be sure to make sure they are all Toyota WS compatible. if not, then ask them to get the correct fluid or you can simply supply them the quantity the job requires. It has to be Toyota WS compatible otherwise you run the risk of damaging the transmission. Don't use a flush kit or silly additives either. It's not needed and it's too risky for such a fine instrument the U660E transmission is. Flush the fluid or pan drain. Both are acceptable. Incorrect. The temperature range for the U660E is between 40 and 45 degrees C I did mine at 42.5 degrees. Not sure why the workshop would want to bridge wires for the temp adjustment. That's something a backyarder would be more inclined to do whilst not owning a scan tool. A workshop should be equipped with a scan tool that has live data testing that can look at transmission temperature for a more accurate adjustment. That there is a deal breaker. Don't let him touch it. $220 for a pan drain with that procedure he outlined is way too much. No mention of pan gasket either. I would recommend using the original Toyota gasket rather than the cork type. The cork type will eventually break down with heat and start weeping. "Remove Impurities" ?? It's not rocket science. Looks like an overreach. The flushing process is quite simple. Once pan drained, the flushing process can begin. You introduce fresh fluid, while the car is running, into the suction side and wait until the clean fluid comes out the discharge side. It will take approximately 8 lt of fluid to do this. Once the fluid coming out the discharge is as clean as the fluid going in, you're done. Then you go ahead and do the level adjustment at approximately 42 degrees C. No mention of pan gasket or strainer either. The strainer, sometimes referred to as a filter is more for catching any larger particulate, be that metal or otherwise. It's prudent to remove it and closely inspect it inside for glittery stuff. If it's clean, and it should be, you can reinstall it. The pan will also have two magnets in it. They will need to be pulled and cleaned as they will have ferrous material attached to them collected from residual floating material from when it was new. No big deal and they are there for the purpose to hold the material and not let it circulate with the fluid. Make sure they clean the pan out thoroughly. If you are comfortable with the Specialist and they have a good reputation then I'd also consider them too. The ballpark for a full flush service is around $300 anyway. Materials will be around $140 roughly.. If they use a Genuine Toyota pan gasket. They probably won't and may opt to just use whatever they're supplied with. Remember, they are running a business and it's in their best interest to keep their costs down and maximise profit. They don't care how fastidious or concerned you are. It's their ball park, their ball game and ball. Just have a chat with them first and flesh out the finer detail for the bill of materials. It will have to include everything I've mentioned. You can never be sure if anyone is going to do the right thing, which is why you have to be armed with the knowledge BEFORE you hand over the keys. Ask them the pertinent questions raised from here and they will quickly assume you're no idiot. They will be more inclined to do the right thing. I have a whole thread on a service I carried out on my own car some time back. Have a read and hopefully you will have a clearer understanding of how this whole process works. One thing I can say is that, it can be done at home by a DIY type person. You just need to make the time and be prepared with the right parts and tools. If you're not mechanically inclined or a DIY type then by all means seek out a reputable service. Good luck and I hope it all works out well for you ! Cheers

That's the method I've used too. As it also acts as a sealer for the most part, despite the emulsion to "clean", you potentially trap contamination by virtue of the sealant component. That has always been my thinking. When I used to use these foam spray on sealants, I would always wash and decon first then as a final thing, I'd hit it with the sealant via foam canon. Makes sense right ? Since using up the last of my Fireball product I haven't bothered to get back on board with these as the car always has a sealant coat on it anyway and every time I towel dry it, I'm using the same spray on sealant as a drying aid anyway, so it tops it up that way. I see the benefit of the foam canon sealant too. It just depends on a given situation and what works for the individual. Another method, would be to wash decon, apply the foam sealant, rinse then blow dry. Towel dry is ok, just nice to use a spritz of drying aid (spray on sealant) to help it along if the desired slickness isn't quite there.

My Pleasure. I'm not a mechanic as such, but have been around cars for most of my life, so I'm pretty handy with tools. I don't blame you. I think the prices of the Toyota service parts have come down considerably since my original post. If I recall, the price was high 200's and I couldn't justify that to be honest. If the aftermarket gives me any grief, I'll certainly go with Genuine Parts after this. I just hate how Toyota aggressively mark up their service parts the way they do. They don't need to be that expensive, and all for the sake of having "Toyota" written on an OEM part. I recently replaced a pre cat Oxygen Sensor. Denso make it for Toyota and the price for the Denso OEM part was $258 and Toyota's "Genuine Part" was just over $400. Both identical except the Denso one doesn't have "Toyota" etched into it. Big deal right ? Big savings to be had if you shop around.

I don't see the harm in using aftermarket fluid as long as it's compatible with Toyota WS fluid. I'm one who doesn't like to mix oils or fluids and generally just stick to one from the start. I've been using Nulon fully synthetic oil for the engine since I purchased it at roughly 40K and it now almost at 150K. No varnish, no sludge, no issues. Excellent oil. The transmission, I carried out a full flush using the Penrite LV, so it's mostly Penrite fluid in there now, and the transmission has performed flawlessly since. I plan to just keep going with Penrite. Just wait till your favourite product is on sale, and it will be at some point, and stock up like the rest of us.