Tony Prodigy

I feel your pain mate. This has to be so frustrating for anybody. Spend all the money and time and still have the issue exist. I have to wonder though, and CONROD, hit on something here, the gauge could be giving a false reading. I can't see how any modern engine can go straight to "H" on the gauge after a few minutes. I don't think it's possible, even when an engine is sickly with cooling issues, the gauge will go to half, three quarters and close to full, but not that quick. If you have a temperature probe, insert it inside the top radiator hose and monitor the actual water temperature manually. With coolant, it shouldn't exceed 90 degrees C. If it does then yes, you have an issue, and yes, monitor that bottom hose too. If it is collapsing during suction it may be restricting water flow. Very keen to hear the follow up. Good luck

G'day Lance. Nice to have you onboard. Not much of an EV person myself but I can appreciate the hybrid system for now until our worldly Govts force us to ditch our dinosaur fueled cars. That's going to be a sad day indeed. I love my Aurion and all my other fossil fuel burning machines and hope to have them as long as possible.

Well done. The trickle charger will serve you well. It's a great investment. Once the battery has been reconditioned, it will have the necessary cranking capacity as it did before. Just keep in mind that it's a trickle charger and it takes time to bring it back in the event your battery goes flat. I am still wondering what caused it to go flat in the first place. Have you thought about this whilst canvassing the charger ? It's possible the battery could be defective and as such, if you have the warranty, I'd get a Supercharge agent to inspect it and replace it if necessary. But you shouldn't have to be recharging or jump starting your car. As mentioned before, you may have a parasitic drain when the vehicle is off, or your vehicle charging system is compromised somehow. You really need to get it checked out because this is not normal.

Did you ask them to explain such a ridiculous price ? I would've asked it they contain Frankincense, myrrh, or even gold 😄

I wonder if it has a knock sensor, crank sensor that could be bad.. ?? A code reader is vital in this case you'd think.

I'm not a Paseo expert, but from the limited options you're facing, I would try and fit the '93 part to the '94 and see if it works. You mention ECMs in the title then go onto ask about a throttle body, so not sure exactly what it is you need. I would just try and fit the replacement item and see if it works. Not sure about ECMs though. I suspect this may need to be assigned to the chassis ?? Hopefully others who have more knowledge on this era of Toyota can shed some more light for you. I wish you well with it.

Absolutely. Be sure to use a high quality, reputable brand though for best results. It's possible you may have got a bad batch of fuel and potentially fouled an injector or some other part of the fuel system. The fuel filter should pick up most of the nasty stuff, but some contamination can pass through in some cases.

He was referring to the steering shaft or otherwise known as the intermediate steering shaft. It has a "knuckle" or universal joint and when this has wear on it, it can transfer vibration back through the steering column.

What does your mechanic have to say ? Does a scan indicate any issue misfire issues ? Possibility of a faulty coil ?? You may also have a head gasket issue. That's a long shot but worth doing a cooling system pressure test. Fuel injectors could also be a possibility too.

I put on a set of Michelin Primacy 3ST tyres on mine Dec 2021 and are still behaving well with plenty of tread left. I've only ever had Michelin tyres on my Aurion so I can't offer any opinions on any other brand unfortunately. Reason why I stuck with Michelin was the quality of ride and comfort and longevity. Just make sure you keep tabs on your front end alignment so they don't wear prematurely. It's always awesome having fresh rubber on the car. Makes it feel like new again. I hope those Conti's serve you well my friend. Cheers

Wow !. They know where they can stick that price tag right ? 😁 There's no way they can justify that ludicrous amount for PS4's. I'm kinda glad I did my tyres before this crazy turn of events.

I have never heard of any car brake suddenly of it's own accord. So what you're saying is that whilst driving along, the right side brake engaged ? Was it a lock up or partial ? The brakes are engaged mechanically via hydraulic fluid pressure, so the instance of it just braking on its own is rather peculiar. May I ask if that vehicle has been off road or more importantly waded through a river or creek ? I do know that when the sliding pins on the calipers are dry, the calipers have a tendency to "bite" the disc quite abruptly at lower speeds. At cruising speeds it's ok. You will also have increased wear on the inner brake pad as it stays in contact to the disc more so than the outer one. I wonder if the Toyota techs checked the basic items of the caliper to make sure it's mechanically sound. Those sliding pins need to be greased periodically to enable the caliper to function correctly.

As much as someone is willing to pay I guess. We have no idea of condition or history. Do you have a ball park ?

Thanks Bud. She's on her way 😁

It's always the way, I know. It's probably an intermittent issue, hopefully one that rectify itself perhaps. Abnormal battery voltage can also wreak havoc with electrical systems too, so ensure you have a decent battery or get it load tested.

These very complex systems need to be interrogated with a high end scan tool for a better, more accurate diagnosis. It's premature to assume a mechanical issue in the transmission as there is way too many electrical gremlin possibilities to consider. Sensors here, there and everywhere can go wayward and can affect the comms of said systems.

I find that very bizarre. I can't see why Toyota would have two separate lots of presses to press one shape of bonnet for a sedan and another shape for the Hatch. It's crazy. I'd go to a dealer who has both cars and compare the bonnets. It could be that the sedan bonnet doesn't have the clip holes and the hatch one does ?? This has me intrigued now. Let us know what you find.

It was probably a pathetic attempt at cost saving. Who knows. I guess if you run into a dealer member, they may deny or confirm. Sedans and Hatchbacks both share the same front paneling including the bonnet. Unless there's a distinct difference we're not aware of. SO by default, hood insulation from a hatch should fit sedan of the same model. Have you compared the front of both hatch and sedans ?

This video may help.

I believe you have to join a car club to be able to get club rego. In your case, it may have to be The Queensland Toyota Hiace Van Club or something like that. Do an online search for an appropriate club and go from there. It will require you to attend meetings, outings, car shows or whatever the agenda calls for and this is the trade off for getting club rego. Some people couldn't be bothered with all that and just keep paying the full rego. Each, their own I guess.

It's a difficult thing to process not being able to see the car. After re reading your opening post, I suspect what you are describing is a rough engine idle rather than rather than a manifestation of a vibration via engine mounts etc.. I don't see how your transmission could be the cause of the vibration if no work had been performed on it previous to the issue arising. If there WAS work done to the transmission, then yes this can be a potential problem if it's over or under filled. You did state that your car has only done 75K Klms, which isn't high enough to warrant the auto transmission service and at this stage I'm assuming it's still on it's factory fill. Being factory filled, there should be no discrepancy with regards to fluid level, hence normal operation, which leads me to believe there is a minor issue at the engine. It's possibly what your mechanic said, a cam position sensor or either, bad spark plugs, ignition coil or a vacuum leak somewhere. How has your fuel economy been ?? Just a few things to think about as we have no service history for this vehicle from you.

Not really necessary for a battery that's already got a decent charge in it. If the battery is flat then you'd probably need a Battery charger with a high amperage charging rate but this would be the worst case scenario in which case you'd either need to correct the parasitic drain or replace the battery. In the instance where I've had a dead flat battery, I would hook up my 10/20 amp dedicated battery charger for a couple of hours then transfer it to the trickle charger. Just my way of doing it so I don't boil it. The trickle charge is a more intelligent system whereby it analyses the battery condition and charges it in a manner which mimics your onboard alternator putting charge back in to your battery as you drive. Once the battery is at it's optimum charge, the charger then trickle charges at a much lower rate so not to overheat and cook the battery and helps maintain it's correct charge.

Hey Matt, thanks for the heads up and welcome aboard. It's been my biggest bug bear trying to find bits and pieces for my Aurion and it's quite frustrating especially when sending an online query and have no one bother to respond. Pricing is always an issue, where I'm happy to pay a fair price for parts but not get gouged either. Shipping and freight has also become ridiculously expensive too. I know because I've been in the buying of parts game for decades and up until Covid, freight was relatively cheap and fair. Nowadays, you have to donate a bloody kidney to get sizeable items across the border. I wish you well with your enterprise and hopefully be able to deal with you someday. Keep us updated when you go live. All the best to you

I am a big proponent for C-Tek trickle chargers. In my opinion, they are the best in the business. I have 4 of these for various vehicles I own. They have a range of chargers to choose from but for a car battery I would go with at least an MXS 5.0 kit. It comes with some handy comfort connectors, one of which you can permanently attach to your battery terminals via the Eyelet connector provided. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162575612183?epid=25039892661&hash=item25da42f917:g:zWkAAOSwhE5iVmwI&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsOiyfcEFGZTFQ7Vx0mva%2FqNMtOeXruejFDnRWFXzc9eDAwHqfuhRvJfoxOxKLR9I26%2FIf6GNTwIk%2FgQTKRU9oWiSwzdQcf%2B1DFZWFQ12fD90dKhIH1ALWv5zuUCvqxWFehnMS1%2FGnlnIFx8D7AB5SH9CGPfFza3E%2FzGSlrLcvdRGnFHX2vuiwPGoCV%2BIU0Ba7njRvWTCI9eKt9DJ5EjWj85xLoOXNjN5%2FX6DnpN9%2Bc7d|tkp%3ABlBMUIrv0_rYYQ The other thing I'd like to know is why the battery is running down so quickly. You probably have a parasitic drain going on, where something electrical is still drawing current whilst the vehicle is off. I'd get this looked at and corrected, but I'd still have the trickle charger in play as it does actually keep the battery conditioned and potentially increase its service life. So it's a good investment. I would also recommend purchasing a battery starter device and keep handy in the boot. The one in the link below is the one I have. Gone are the days using jumper leads and hoping for the kindness of strangers to provide a jump for you. Do it yourself with your own jumper pack such as one of these: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/224381611886

Hi there. It's pretty easy actually as modern interior componentry is usually a pop off style fixture with some screws. Follow this video for disassembly stages. When you pull the head unit you will be able to access the climate control panel. You can then reach in and pop the control dial back into it's holder or if you want to, remove the control panel fully if you feel like applying some epoxy glue to reinforce the dial into position so it can't pop out again. Just a few small dollops around the inner circumference will do. Cheers