Tony Prodigy

Yes. If you had the rubber hosed lines. Can't remember from what year, but I think from around '07 I think. It was the very early 2GR-FE engines. They corrected all the potential failure points with the later models. In the case of the Aurion, the 40 series was the affected model and the 50 series was when all that was done at the factory before it was unleashed.

Excellent. I know that feeling you get when you've been searching for ages then finally land one. It's the thrill of the hunt which drives me and it's very satisfying feeling having achieved your goal. Treasure it, cos they are quite rare. Not many people think to keep such a thing, and eventually get lost or thrown away. I don't think car makers are even offering car brochures anymore. Is that right ? Wouldn't be surprised. They're all becoming tight fisted these days. Nice catch anyway

Don't feel bad if you don't replace them, after all, they will still be in excellent condition considering they would've only been replaced during the last oil service. I've looked at mine after draining the oil and often say to myself, "what a waste really". I reckon they'd go another service or two at least. But for the sake of good practice, It is recommended to replace the O-rings on each oil service, but it's not a fast and hard rule. They do last. I can't see an issue with it either. The O-rings are pretty high quality and it would take a long time for them to degrade to the point of total failure, so I can't see why you couldn't leave them on, skip one and replace on the next. If they were that brittle, then it wouldn't have been used in the first place. Good quality O-Rings can take some punishment.

To be honest, we rarely have to use the washer. I cringe having to use it because you are wiping dirt and grit into the glass, and despite it "cleaning" the windshield, over time you will see those unsightly streaks etched into the glass. I much prefer to keep a few dedicated microfiber cloths handy with a bottle of my favourite Rain-X and give it a once over when required. That way, you not only clean the glass safely, you also top up the hydrophobic coating, so that you almost never need to even use your wipers. Win-Win. 😉

Thanks mate. I think the part number may have been superseded but the filter itself is exactly the same. This filter is still from the batch I purchased a few years ago. I purchased one box of 10 initially to see if they were Genuine and after confirming they were, I went ahead and purchased 2 more boxes of 10, gave one box to my Dad who has the same car and put the other in stock. I'm down to a few in one box and still have the other, but I recently thought to replenish my stock and ordered another 2 boxes which will see me through for many years. Shipping costs are starting to bite so I was able to find a vendor in the U.S. who was able to send them way cheaper then most others, so I took the opportunity. It my be the last time "affordable" shipping will make it a viable purchase. So get while the getting's good I say. Off memory, I don't think you get away with removing the filter housing with a full sump. That would be something I could try next time to see for sure, but I do suspect you will get more that just housing contents. You could give it a try and report back I guess, if you're planning to do this before my next oil change. The weird thing is, that I always torque my wheel nuts to 76 ft lbs = 103 Nm, and this thought then popped in my head when I read your post. I replaced my tyres last January and if I recall, I didn't retorque the wheel nuts after the service provider rattle gunned them on. I think that's what has caused them to warp perhaps.. Not sure if they have their rattle guns set to a fixed torque. I'll have to remember to re torque them myself after next time.

Did you just notice this now ? Do you think it came this way from the dealer or was it after the fact ? I reckon it's repairable. Make sure the dealer gives you back the damaged one. I was thinking that you can lightly sand any sharp edges and then inject some epoxy resin to the same level as the plastic, then lightly block the surface and buff. That's a $1000 chip. Ouch !

I'm no expert when it comes to batteries, but I'd ask around a few other sound shops for the correct size. I would also assume if one is installing a powerhouse system, then the alternator may also need to be upgraded too. An auto electrician would be the best person to ask. As for calcium batteries, I can attest to their outstanding performance and longevity. I am still running an Excide Calcium battery in my E36 M3, which is hardly driven, is on a battery tender and the car still fires up 10 years later. It is still good after 10 years ! I am still in disbelief myself, but when it finally dies, I will definitely be seeking another one.

No problem mate. Happy to help where possible. I wish I could offer more assistance, but this one looks like it needs a deeper dive in that heater box. I was thinking that if you have one of those borescopes, you may be able to probe inside the heater box before full disassembly. You can scope out any signs of Fluro dye. That should confirm our suspicions without having to spend all that time and effort for little to no gain. Try going through the pollen filter chamber and see if the evap is close by.

Hey Rob, probably better to have started your own thread so your thread doesn't conflict with the posts before yours. Anyways, I have to ask if the person "topping" up the refrigerant had a proper look into it rather than keep topping it up. Was there a leak test conducted ? Why was the condenser replaced ? When you valves, what exactly do you mean ? There is a TX valve, but it's only a singular item otherwise known as an expansion valve. Was this faulty too ? If so, how did you come to that conclusion ? Being a '79 model I would assume it's been retrofitted to run with modern day automotive refrigerant. O-ring seals can dry out over time and will cause leakage if the A/C isn't used for a long time. The oil which circulates within the system cannot keep the seals lubricated and as a consequence, can dry or crack. You really need to pressure test the system and spray your connections with soapy water or alternatively get your tech to inject some dye. The dye will be visible where a leak is present. That's where I'd be starting.

Haha Rob, I watched this this morning too, then came here and see this post 😄 You have to admit, it's not a bad effort for an engine that had one design flaw, that being the low tension rings. It managed to survive this long albeit burning a quart of oil per 150 miles. The new short block was the only solution as it's the all new and improved version from the Toyota factory, the one they should've designed and sold originally, but nevertheless, this one should probably do an easy 500,000 miles I reckon. If it wasn't for the oil burning issue of the original engine, I dare say it too would've done another 200,000 miles too. The bearings still looked great too. Gotta love the older gen Toyotas. They were properly built to last.

I guess the cheapest test would be to replace the relay and see. If it doesn't cure it then it's no big loss. You'll just have a spare relay. I wonder if you do an ECU scan, it may have a fault code stored in there which could lead you in the right direction. Do you have a decent scan tool ? At this point though, it's like a crap shoot, but I am suspicious about the control module. They aren't expensive and it's always good to keep a spare even if it doesn't solve the problem. Compressor diagnosis can be tricky, but in essence, it's just a mechanical pump driven by a pulley and commanded by the vehicle electrics, ie the control module. If the system hasn't been tampered with before, like a gas leak and re gas, then I suspect you have no contamination internally to speak of. If a system has been overcharged, it can trip the high pressure switch and lock the compressor out momentarily until the pressure drops. It will keep this cycle up until the charge can be corrected. It doesn't explain why the system starts working again after you restart the engine or cycle the A/C switch. If it's tripping H.P. then it will cycle off and on via the H.P. switch. No other intervention is necessary, which brings me back to the controller. I am leaning to it being the culprit. Electronics are fickle especially as they age and as I mentioned previously, the 40 series control module is known for playing up. I'd go to that following a no luck with the relay. Cheers

That hissing sound is definitely telling you you are short of refrigerant. Liquid refrigerant from the bottom of the condenser feeds into the receiver dryer and goes all the way to the Expansion valve for metering. When you're low on refrigerant, not enough liquid gets to the TX valve and as a consequence starts flashing off before it can pass through the orifice. It's called "flash Gas", so yes the hissing sound is a good observation from your end. If you see no dye anywhere you have connection points in the engine bay, then I'd turn my attention to the evaporator if you are able to work out how to access it. I'm not familiar with Corolla's heater box set up. Looks like a decent leak, if it's dropped off that much in a couple of months. One would assume that the evap pipe's connections should be accessible someone under the dash, but if other Corolla owners can chime in who has fiddled under there, that would be great. Another trick you can utilise is a spray down of all visible connections with soapy water in spray bottle mate. (Dish washing liquid is excellent). That's usually the best and easiest method. I'd do it while you still have enough pressure left in the system, otherwise you'll need someone with some nitrogen to come over and pressurise the system. Start the engine and run the A/C so you can build enough pressure then spray everything. This way the leak can present itself much easier. Also, when I say spray, not misty spray, but rather a direct stream , so you don't create your own bubbles. Open the fluid tip on the sprayer so it streams out. But if there is a leak, it will start making larger soap bubbles. I hope you find it in an easy location. Cheers mate

Before you deep dive into it, do a bit more research. It could be possible that your climate control module is playing up. It is a known issue on the 40 series. Give us more info on your exact symptoms. If it does blow cold when you turn it on, how long before it stops blowing cold or does it not blow cold at all ?

Hey mate, sorry to hear that. Toyota Air is usually very reliable and rock solid. The trick is to use it as often as possible to enable the lubrication of the O-Rings. Some people choose not to use it that often to save on fuel but are really doing themselves a disservice by not using it.As the refrigerant circulates, so too does some oil from the compressor. It's totally normal, and in doing so this helps keep the O-rings conditioned. If they dry out, then you know what that means right ? Have you verified if the compressor cuts in ? Are you able to see any dye from the visible connections ? Gas leaks are a bugger sometimes. Check around the compressor connections, liquid line filter, high and low pressure switches and if the evap suction and return connections are accessible. Better hope it's not the evaporator.. I suspect it's a bad seal somewhere, because I've rarely heard of any Toyota A/C going bad to be honest. If no dye is present, and it should be, you can get your guy to pressure test the system with dry nitrogen before wasting money on refrigerant. I hope it works out ok mate. Let us know how you go. Cheers and Happy New Year !

Going to the dealer should be everyone's last resort and even then I'd still hesitate. You were absolutely right in walking out in disgust. I would too. Don't let a problematic window washer dampen your spirit of the mighty Aurion my friend. Our Aurion's are probably the last remaining bastion of reliability when comparing to many other makes and models that have been and continue to come. I plan to keep mine as long as humanly possible. It's too good to give up. If I encounter an issue, I always like to research the issue first and attempt to fix it myself. A general search on google, then YouTube university can be surprisingly good. When it comes to parts, I search Ebay first as there are many wreckers who advertise there now, including private sellers. I've been lucky over the years and have stockpiled a few good spares for my car. Mainly the consumable items among others. Don't despair. Check the obvious things first. It could be something as simple as a fuse or plug may have dislodged. If the pump is bad, no big deal. You can get a good used item for peanuts and install it yourself if you have some DIY capability. If you don't ask a friend to help. There's always a better solution to handing over $1000 for something that shouldn't cost more than $100 give or take. Let us know how you get on. Perhaps we can help in some way. Cheers mate

I really dig the Blade. I was shocked to find out that such a small car can have a 2GR-FE in it. Talk about a hot hatch ! It should already be a rocket ship. Why would you want to supercharge it too ? Do you think you'll have traction issues with more power ? Did you import it yourself or are there specialty car yards that have them here already ? Post up some pics if you can. Love to see it. Cheers

Haha, yes my friend. It is a lifelong condition unfortunately. I'm just not one to do a half assed job. It kind of bothers me knowing that I could've tried just a bit harder and do the job a bit better than others would or could. You just need to be organised and the rest is so easy. A nice surprise came to me yesterday, and as I was going through my tool cabinet, I found a spare set of those Remsa brake pads. I totally forgot that I had purchased two sets of front brake pads when I did my brake service way back when. "Nice", I thought. Looks like I'm going to have to use these before going back to OEM pads and rotors. I figured I'd just let these one ride out the life of the current rotors and when these are done I'll just refresh the whole package then. I can live with a little pulsating pedal. It's not bad, but you know it's there. If it gets worse I'll bring it forward.

Haha yeah, my OCDness keeps everything in check. I don't feel comfortable using lesser parts, so I always try and opt for Either Genuine or High quality OEM replacement. I have a good stock of Genuine Toyota oil filters which worked out to be cheaper buying in bulk than buying, say, Ryco or the like. So you're better off with Toyota Genuine Parts where possible. I hope sludgy is finally turning the corner there Ash. it's been a long and winding road. Any light at the end of that tunnel yet ? I appreciate the fact the oil turns black even after 1K, and that's testament to the quality detergent package found in high quality oils. At least you know what you're doing and hopefully soon enough it should be a much better level of cleanliness. Yeah, what can you do mate. 5 and a bit years isn't too bad considering the car lives outside in all weather conditions and it doesn't get a pampered garaged life either. So I can't complain too much.

I usually hit it with degreaser, then pressure rinse with the hose on fine spray, then I go over it with brake cleaner then blow it dry with compressed air. It's over the top I know, but it's important to ensure the spring relief mechanism is super clean and is not stuck. Depress it a few times whilst you have the degreaser pooled up inside so that it works its way through everything.

Good Day to you all, I finally got around to doing the oil service yesterday, one of a few maintenance items ticked off the list for now. Last oil service was April 16th 2022 @ 141,168K and this service is 150,244K. So 9,076K interval. I've been quite loaded up with other jobs and been extremely busy so I haven't had neither the time or energy to get it done any earlier. My aim was to start to decrease the oil change frequency from 10K to between 7-8K for two reasons. One, to start using up my oil stash and Two, to better prevent potential for sludge build up, not that a 10K interval would contribute, but to help keep the engine as clean as possible as a prevention measure. Normal routine, got all the service items, tools and equipment ready then got to work in the early hours of the morning. It was rather cool yesterday morning and was hoping it would stay that way, but no. It gradually got hotter as the sun got higher unfortunately. A quick check of the dip stick surprisingly reveals a still golden tinge to 9K old oil. Testament to the high quality of the Nulon product, which I've been using since 40K on the ODO. Car jacked up with safety stands either side, then proceeded to drain oil and remove oil filter housing. After engine warm up and some 20 minutes of drain time, it was finally ready for fresh oil. Some prep prior to this would usually have me degreasing the inside of the oil filter housing and replacement of the large O-Ring, pre lubed, of course. Then after installing new filter, I primed it by just filling the housing around half way, so there's no air gap prior to the engine starting. New crush washer on the sump plug prior to installation and then she was ready for the big fill. After brimming it with 6lt of Nulon 5W-30 goodness, my attention turned to the battery. I had noticed the Negative post had started to leak over the last year or so, and despite this, the battery is going strong indicated by the "green" indicator window. The last time I replaced my battery was July 24, 2017, so 5 and a half years isn't too bad considering. If it weren't for the leaky post, I'd say it would've probably gone for another 2 or so years. What a shame.. Here's my original battery post The problem with the post leaking battery acid was that it would potentially eat away at the terminal clamp and so in the meantime, I would wash it down and neutralize it baking soda, but I couldn't keep up with this so I just decided to replace the battery. I got a replacement a couple of months ago and decided now was the time to do it while I had some free time. So that's exactly what I did. I thoroughly cleaned both battery clamps using acetone to remove the old battery post spray protectant, (that yellow stuff you see) and then once the battery was installed, I could reapply the same stuff. I purposely avoided using any kind of grit paper as it was unnecessary and it would also ruin the tin coating on the clamps opening the door for rust. The terminal spray isn't absolutely necessary, but my OCD insists on it to further add another layer of protection. 🤪 So, oil done.. CHECK Battery done.. CHECK. Next on the agenda will be coolant and front brakes. I will be replacing the front rotors this time as the previously installed set didn't live up to the hype. They turned out to be rubbish infact. I will elaborate when I carry out the works. I still have my original rotors and may even reinstall those. Looking at them yesterday, I don't know why I even bothered to replace them. They are still quite good, just need a clean up. I'll canvass the cost for a new OEM set and brake pads this time. Aftermarket rotors are cheap for a reason and now I know for sure judging by the condition of mine. The amount of degradation for a car that's driven gently is ridiculous. Two things are significant disc wear and they are also warped. You can feel the pulsing of the pedal. So for this reason, I might just go back to factory stock. I'll see what my research brings. But for now, at least the oil is done. Thanks for reading everyone Cheers and have a great day !

These may help. Reference the F20 Plug, which yours is, and go by colour designation. You can then write up a list corresponding the pinout numbers to the various colours. Doc1.docx doc 2.docx

That's the layman's approach if you don't have access to a polishing device. If you have or know someone with a machine polisher, you simply polish them back with the same cutting/polishing compound you'd use for car paint. A 3" polishing head is ideal, but if you don't have it, you can get away with a 5.5"-6" pad. Just work the machine so that it can effectively contact the lense cleanly. You can use lambswool or a sponge. If using sponge you'd want to use one for cutting, which in most cases will generally be the Orange pad. The white pads are for refining and the black pads are for finishing. The latter two aren't needed for plastic as we're not interested in making plastic look concourse as you would paint. Some plastic lenses can be quite bad and may require wet sanding with 1500 grit to remove the badly oxidised layer. Then follow up with a decent machine polish then buff with a microfiber cloth. You may need to do a few passes depending on how bad it is. Generally if the surface feels rough, then it will need a sand. If it's smooth but only faded, then just hit it with the machine straight up and go over it several times for best results. Some yellowing of the lense will disappear after a good machine polish and some that are more yellowed may still have that yellow tinge but at least the lense will present nicer. If the lenses are too far gone to the point they affect clarity and the safe use of the vehicle, you should replace them. Once you're done polishing, clean the surface with some surface prep then apply sealer. I always advocate for a protective sealant once they've been polished, to protect them from the very UV rays which degraded them in the first place. Any quality automotive spray on sealant, preferably a ceramic based sealant, will work just fine. Just reapply every few months to keep it good. Hope that helps. Let us know how you go if you end up tackling this yourself. Cheers

You were very lucky Ash. It could've been worse. Also lucky to have been given good customer service with the warranty too. Good stuff

I agree. Where it is absolutely necessary. I understand the need for oil coolers to have a rubber hose connectors. They're typically mounted in the frontal air stream so doesn't get the abuse if it were closer to an area where hot exhaust and general engine heat can degrade those hoses. I suspect the quality of the rubber used by Toyota was also questionable, seeing that the offending item is mounted close to the engine and exhaust, perhaps more thought could've been given to the longevity of the part. Who knows what goes on behind closed doors hey ?

I don't think the window section is electronically actuated, only the door itself. Is this what you mean ? The window handle has a depressor underneath it for manual operation. If the tailgate itself isn't opening after pressing the button and you just hear an audible beep, then it's possible the tailgate operation is locked out. There's a locking button inside the glovebox to the right inner section. It controls the tailgate's locking/unlocking function. That could be your issue there.