--Rudes--

Awwwww, Rolla Boy.... I paid $180 for my adjustable and I'm trying to recoup my cost by selling it on the forum... Looks like no one is going to offer me anything more than $165 now that you've posted this!

Look how long the intake piping is. I'm thinking poor throttle response and lag, especially on a 1.5L engine.... Mounting a turbo between the engine and firewall might be the obvious place, but you end up having to stretch a couple of pieces of tubing miles to reach it.... not to mention if you want to install a front mount later, there'll be even more tubing required....

I sent that guy an email enquiring about the same thing and at first he replied offering me $150 for the eyelids and grill, to which I replied saying I was interested and would buy them the following day. He then got back to me via email saying that he'd offer me a special deal of $250 for eyelids and grill (seemingly forgetting the first offer of $150), and when I questioned him about the $100 price increase, he replied with all sorts of excuses and justifications. Now I don't disagree that the eyelids and grill are worth $250, but he shouldn't have offered me the initial price in the first place to try and bait me into a sale. It was all in writing, so I'm not sure what he was trying to achieve. But certainly don't hand your money over to this guy unless it's face-to-face and he's got the items in front of you.

TRD front and rear strut bars, eyelids, mesh grill.

Hey thanks Rollamods. Really appreciate the step-by-step guide.

Is it just me or is the front bumper not sitting properly?

Has anyone done a DIY install of the front sway bar? I'm looking at the service manual instructions on how to remove the stock sway bar and it's looking VERY complicated. It says to do things like remove the Rack&Pinion Power Steering Gear Assy and suspending the Engine Assy, etc., which seems a bit overboard. Is there an easier way?

Yeah less chassis flex is correct, but you won't oversteer because of a front strut bar. Anyway, how did the front strut improve handling? I can't decide whether to do front or rear first.

Basically shortening the operating length of the throttle cable ie. taking up the 'slack' in the throttle cable so that you get better throttle response and no 'dead zone' in the accelerator pedal. Doesn't give you any power.

I'm pretty sure stiffening the front promotes understeer in a fwd.... that's why so many silvias have front strut bars....

Front strut bars are widely used in rwd cars to improve turn in, but the same principle won't apply for a fwd... in fact, it'll promote understeer as far as I know.... I would've thought a rear sway bar or rear tower bar would be a better option....

I should really check the other sections (other than the Corolla one) more often... Does this dyno do air/fuel ratios? Put me down for it...

hahaha jeeee that's terrible Since they are the only ones that sell stock it, they can sell it whatever price they want to. Ring around a few other dealers, you'll be surpised as to how much they differ in prices around different dealers ;) ;) ;) ← Ha ha... yeah it's funny... I was at the motor show earlier this year, and they had a couple of corollas on the stand, and you don't know how tempted I was just to slip a couple of those spacers in my pocket....

You think that's bad... those plastic spacers in your centre compartment that are supposed to act as dividers/cupholders? They cost around $50 each.... and I need two....

The SSS's run an SR20DE, which is not an engine to take lightly... having said that though, I've pulled (slowly but surely) on a Silvia Qs (SR20DE) from a set of lights with a passenger in my car... to be fair though, he was probably an auto... 2zz-ge's should have no problems....

Don't worry... I couldn't get my brackets to line up either... make sure the first bracket is screwed in (the one on the main pipe), and let the bracket that's closest to the pod rest on the chassis...

I think the brown sensor might be your air temperature sensor? Not sure, but if it is, I reckon you'll need it.... the simota CAI only has a spot to screw in the MAF sensor... And errr, you're getting me a bit worried, coz when I installed my CAI, the only thing I saw was the MAF sensor... didn't see any blue circle thing or any vacuum line... I've got a 1zz-fe, so is there a difference? Can someone please confirm? I don't want my engine to blow up or anything... Oh, and also.... http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...p?showtopic=711

I kept the Simota Pod. Secondary pipe bracket is not screwed in, but is resting on the chassis, so it's still acting as a support. You might want to see what Autobarn do with this. I have exhaust mods, so the little difference I felt with the CAI mod may not carry through to your car. The only real way to determine gains is to dyno the car. Let me know how your car goes.

You can see the bracket that's connected to the secondary pipe. The gold washer and screw is where that bracket is meant to attach to the chassis "theoretically". Also, in the foreground you can see the aluminium sleeve and blue rubber connector (underneath the sleeve) that connects the main pipe to the secondary pipe. If you take the red positive terminal on the battery (blurry red thing on the left) as a reference, you can see how long the main pipe is compared to the secondary pipe (look at the first pic).

Closer view of the MAF Sensor and two screws that hold it in place.

General view of the Simota CAI. You can see the sharp bend where the pipe meets the fuse box.

Synergistic :P ← Hard to say how good the simota is going.. I really should get the car dyno'd one of these days.... CAI has improved sound, and maybe a little more response up the top....

It comes with two brackets... one on the main pipe and one on the secondary pipe... in theory, I think the bracket on the main pipe is meant to screw down to one of the holes the airbox is mounted to, and the bracket on the secondary pipe screws down to a hole just before the opening where your pod fits through... in reality though, it's pretty hard getting the pipe positioned to allow this... I've only managed to get the main pipe bracket screwed in... but it still sits in place nicely...

The simota CAI is a 2-piece. Seems a lot of people are asking this. I'll try to get some pictures. The long tube extends from the engine to approximately the fuse box (after making a ~90degree turn). The second much-shorter pipe connects the pod filter to the main pipe. The two pipes are connected by a rubber connector surrounded by an aluminium sleeve. And it doesn't come with instructions, but installing a pipe is pretty simple anyway.

They're designed a little different from one another. The AEM's placement of the pod is bent back slightly away from the fog light, the TRD goes straight down. Also the AEM has a more of a bend in it where it goes around the Battery, the TRD seems to also be a little straighter in that section too. ← The Simota one bends the pod slightly backwards like the AEM, but has a straighter pipe like the TRD, and it's probably less than half the price of either one.