Whip Cracker

If you don't want the top to brittle up, you'll need to run padded tape along the side of the bonnet there to stop the sun getting in. There's not much you can do for 10-15 years of searing hot sunlight onto a bonnet with the sunlight going in the side and corroding the bottle. Hope this helps :)

Azuras had everything man :P Mind you they were the top of the range :)

You can't expect anything else from Daryl :)

Check to see that the earth cables are still good mate...

The clock is wrong, or is it set to 12:00am?

Correct me if I am wrong, but the water pump is often driven by the timing belt and the difference in tension after the timing belt has been changed can sometimes cause the water pump to fail prematurely. Therefore, a new belt and a new pump ensures an "even playing field" so to speak. As pointed out, sometimes it is just best to spend a little bit extra for peace of mind. If you are on a tight budget, it is understandable you might choose to only do the belt, but you could end up with a larger headache if a problem arises. No problem... So, on the chance that a mechanic does the job properly and correctly without causing any issues with the water pump, you'd suggest just to leave the current water pump on there? Hell, If my water pump's got 100k on it and I got the car apart, I'd may as well spend the moolah to replace it. Like everything, they only have a certain lifespan. I spose I'm more safe than sorry.

Nice.. I've done my dash, ceiling light and number plates... spose I can do the HIVAC section now :P

Martin's got a point with the whole "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type vibe... But... with the water pump, you have to take the timing belt off and have the car in 100 bits anyway, so it's easier enough to just replace it while it's in all those bits. Pump prob costs the same amount... never go aftermarket on waterpumps... go OEM for sure. Knowing most people's luck, you'd replace the timing belt and a week or two later the pump goes... I'll be replacing mine in a few thousand k at 200k...

Try another one and see if the problem's still there...? It'll prove whether the ECU's faulty or not!

Just find the local recommended brakes specialist... stuff goin to Toyota, unless you got money to burn :P

If you're getting the shuddering when braking, then it's probably just warped discs. You travel up and down hills or stuff like that? I know a fair few people that live in Maleny and Mapleton here on the Sunshine Coast have the problems, but since I live in Landsborough, I never have had the issue. When were your brake pads last changed anyway?

Interesting job mate... thanks for the info. I sure as hell hope I never end up with an electrical fire!

Yeah... any kind of clunking could be strut related... I ended up getting any bushes replaced whilst they had the car in 100 bits... new bump stops and everything. I'm quite happy with my KYB GR-2s... not too stiff... definitely not soft either :P Lowered springs makes the car look much nicer I must say.. even if it is only on stock rims. According to my insurance company, the springs don't ever have to be replaced at all... only shocks. (Was sick of having to call my insurance company every time I wanted to make a mod)

Nearly ALL suspension places I have been to would prefer KYB over Monroe. Only Pedders would use Monroe coz they're a dealer of them. Technically speaking, shocks are meant to be replaced every 40k... but obviously that's not gonna happen! I'd suggest only looking at springs if you're wanting a slightly stiffer ride. The shocks will make it much more stiff, but springs will help it as well. I got mine done with KYB GR-2 shocks with Kings low springs... had the whole lot done :)

I ended up putting in genuine cup holders... wasn't too hard, just a tad fidgety. There's two bolts in the centre console that'll have to come out... you'd need a socket with an extension bar to undo em. The whole piece where the cup holders sit will come out as well. I believe there's also a couple of screws or bolts under the shifter plate that come out too. I did mine in around 20-30 mins. Did it at my mate's place coz he's got a stack of tools :P In regards to the dash... why you want a template? You spray painting it, or changing the colours?

To add to Adam's post... Idle Air Control Valve... You're prob best stating year and engine type mate :)

Erm, it's not sealed properly?? That's how almost all moisture gets in..

Ah yes... have seen this happen a lot. Rest assured, if you had a 1MZ engine, you'd be on the right track with the MAF :)

Gen 3s had the Intrigues... same purpose as the Gen 4s. Was talking to a Toyota GM and he provided me with that info.. that's all.

Well... You can see my plenum is the same on my 95 Tourer... If you can get a shot of the corner a bit more to see if the cable I have in my other pic is the same... then you might have something to go off. Mine's wrapped in corrugated conduit... has two wires inside just like that one you have on yours.

There were Gen 4s built in 2000 as the Gen 4.5 was not publicly released until September 2000. I would hazard a guess production of the 4.5 would have begun late July/early August. Yeah... much the same as Gen 3s built in 97, Gen 4s in '02 etc... you'd find that there would be a "Intrigue" model or an "Advantage" model at those times too. Usually to help sell the rest that Toyota had in the factories if I recall correctly. Basically "clearing out the old model to let the new models in".

Put it this way: A Gen 5 with 18s (on a 40 profile) on normal ride height looks like it's going to take on Landcruiser Park. I can only imagine 20s on it. Not trying to blow your plans outta the water - but I seen it before. A guy called "mbruce" on Auscam can tell you all about it :P

Well... this thread just gets more confusing as I go along... hehehe 99% of us are well aware that when the needle points at the "E", it doesn't necessarily mean "Empty". I came to the conclusion that this is "E" tells me that if I don't fill up soon, I'm gonna be screwed. Our tanks in the Gen 3 & 4 Camrys are 70L, that's right, but when you're at the bowser filling up, you won't get 70L in there... which is fine. Considering I had fuel to actually pull up into the Petrol Station makes me believe there's fuel in it (albeit not much). The most I have ever placed in my Camry was 67L. I'd imagine the other 3L woulda looked scarce if someone was able to see 3L in a huge tank. I'm surprised my car didn't suck up any crud that may have been loitering in my fuel tank, but considering I run 98 octane all the time and also use a Nulon Fuel System Cleaner every 5000km, I don't think I have too much to worry about. I find that when it's full (keep filling til it stops, then a bit more) mine will sit on the "F" for near two days (40km to work and back x 2) and THEN it'll start to come down after that. At the end of the day, it's the fuel sensor thing in the tank that gives the reading. I'm pretty sure that when I go around an exit offramp and somehow my fuel goes from 1/2 to 1/4 temporarily, will make me believe that the fuel sensor is somewhat full of ***** :)

Hey wow my car does that too!

this would be interesting to see.. Coz you're using a 35 profile on 20s.. Not sure how much different the diameter of the wheel would be compared to stock. Other than that, if the car isn't lowered already, it'll look like a 4WD lol :P, i know a guy who had 18s on his gen 5 and looked like he was gonna head out bush hehehe