Whip Cracker

lol... of course Adam wouldn't wreck his precious Lamry :P

Looks like fun... even if you ARE going around in circles... Wtf did you do to your car man? Was told you screwed the side up?

Woulda loved to use MDF rings, but wouldn't fit :(

Nice one. Oi, pad up the rear deck where you can. I got some thick **** padded tape and filled the gaps where my speakers were meant to be sitting... you won't get them flush like the original speakers. I ended up using the original 3 bolt speaker thing and pop riveted the speakers onto that... works like a champ.

I think the only way you're gonna find one of these is by buying a Gen 4 with the GTP kit on it already and selling the other car :P

Ah dude... yeah - sucks when they say "oh sorry, got told it might be on *insert day* instead". Meh.

Nice one - good to see you got the door trim off in one piece :P But you went coaxials?? Oh well... I doubt you're gonna notice much difference between the speakers, besides slightly less bass issues. They're rated for 55w RMS, 170w PMPO... so if you're gonna leave them hooked to the HU, make sure you take the bass outta them (nothing under 100hz at LEAST, if not 120hz). You'll destroy the cone otherwise, lol... The rear stock 6x9s are simply awesome... upgrading them (never liked Fusion one bit, but they're just opinions at the end of the day) - drop all the bass into them mate. Before I had a sub, I had a friend ask where I put my sub, coz he couldn't see it in the boot :P Good luck :)

The door trim is a force to be reckoned with... once you know how it's done - ***** easy. There's like, a horseshoe shaped clip that holds the window winder on. I normally just get a cloth and slide it upwards right where it connects to the door and lift it up (moving the cloth side to side) and then the horseshoe clip comes off. There's screws in the handle, on the outer side of the door trim and at the base in the compartment where you can put stuff in. Refer to this thread on TN: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264887 There's images that'll help you outline where the bolts are. You WILL need to take the housing off the interior door handle... don't need to touch it other than that.

Umm... after putting in splits in the front - MORE MUSIC. Technically speaking, it's great to have the higher frequencies played properly. I'm only going from my experience anyway. Trent is right, it's overkill, but anyone that knows me will also know that I'm very much "better off safe than sorry". The 2 gauge cabling you'd only use if you were going to run 2 x amps down the track. If you have any other questions - fire em at us :P

You'll find the most common springs used are King springs... I can't think of anyone that's ever had a drama with them. I just got King lows installed and was meant to sit 35cm from centre of wheel to the top of the guard. So far so good. King springs are progressive rate, so they'll settle about an extra 5mm or so over the few weeks that they're installed. Lovell are meant to make nice springs, but a friend of mine had problems getting them to sit at the right height. Back and forth from the suspension shop and ended up needing them to get them set at a custom height. There are other springs out there, but honestly, I don't know anyone that uses them! hahaha..

Yeah - that'd suck. I have 3 x RCA inputs on my HU, so I got Front, Rear and monoblock whenever I want. I'm currently running the fronts and the sub (bridged) on a 4 channel Earthquake amp with 130w RMS from EACH channel :P

Oh ***** yeah - amp's the way to go. I'd suggest running all 4 off the head unit for the time being. Installing an amp isn't something that you just "add on". If you were to run an amp... just for the 4 speakers... get a nice 4 channel amp, run a 2 gauge cable from the battery to the boot and install it there. You'd run the power cable down the left side of the car (passenger side) and you'd push the cable through the same loom that goes into the firewall right behind the glovebox. I ran my RCAs down the right side of the car - the opposite side of the car. You don't want the power and RCAs running the same route otherwise you'll get electrical interference. both the cables go right along the side of the car and come out under the rear seats straight into the boot. I'd use a 1 x 2 gauge Neg cable to earth the amp straight to the chassis. The reason why I'm talking really thick cable here is if you want to add an extra amp down the track for a sub. You'd then put a distribution block (like a Y splitter) on the end of the main 2 gauge power cable and have 2 x 4 gauge power cables straight to the amps, both with 2 gauge earth cables. A couple of points I'll make: - No, the cabling isn't overkill. - Yes, you might want to replace the battery terminals with multiple input terminals. Stinger make awesome products... I use two of those, works great. - You might wanna run an extra earth cable off the battery to the chassis. Moreso a peace of mind. I had extra 4 gauge cabling lying around and did it. Sony havd 2 and 4 gauge cabling kits that you can buy off the shelf just for this. Would set you back around 150-200 bucks for the kit. Any questions - let me know.

Hah you'd think that... I reckon it is too, but wtf ay? I woulda thought TOCAU woulda got this under control by now.

Wha? Inferno colour? Any pics to show?

Haven't got any pics as of yet... tried rifling through other Toyota forums for my pics, but nope. Basically, make some door pods if you want, or get some really decent 4.5 inch speakers with 1 inch tweeters. The A pillar (or A Sail) is the triangular piece on the inside of the door towards the front. You can take that off and make a hole in that to mount your tweeters. The sound difference between coaxial and component speakers are huge and I'm always gonna pick the component speaker setup. You can put the external crossovers behind the door (if there's room). You gonna be running an amp?

Yeah... carby driven and no power steering... I only thought those were on the 88-89 models. Obviously not. The ones with EFI came with power steering from my understanding - but after this... I'm not sure now hahaha

This will come in handy too... If you run your own cable and you're not sure which speaker wire's which, I get a AA battery and touch the Pos and Neg onto each wire with the speaker connected and you'll hear the popping coming out of the speaker - bloody useful trick :)

4 - 4 1/2 inch mate. If you want, make door pods and put in some 6 1/2 inch speakers. And dude, make sure they're decent speakers, lol... the rear ones? you won't be able to hear them over the rears. I put my tweeters in the A pillar on the door... sounds awesome.

What year is it again? There are some Gen 2 Camrys from 88-89 that didn't have power steering at all... I know someone that's got one turboed that ended up installing it if I remember rightly. He has an 89 Gen 2 - username on here is 89camry.

Well, I look at three different forums - all have their own info. TOCAU (Here) - Good for general questions about how the Camry runs... Toyota Nation (www.toyotanation.com) - American based site and a great place to use their Search Engine for most technical questions... ie - does H&R springs go well with Tokico struts? Info on how to turbo 5SFEs... everything. AUSCAM (www.auscam.org) - Australian based Camry club and talk only about Camrys. We have turboed and supercharged Camrys there - a very tight-knitted community. You can search there or ask the question - someone's bound to know it.

Well, Gen 4s are great when it comes to availability of mods in comparison to the Gen 3. For instance, you can supercharge the Gen 4 1MZ much easier than the Gen 3 3VZ... mainly coz the S/C was made for the 1MZs. If you can ever find one - the best Gen 4 you can get would be a Manual Touring Series... next one after that would be the Grande. There might be slight differences between the Gen 4 (98-99) and the 4.5 (00-01) so see how ya go with that. These two both have the 1MZ engines (3L V6)

Ermmm... depending on how bad it is will depend on whether it's driveable or not. Quite honestly I wouldn't go anywhere near a car with a blown HG or anything like that. Gen 4s are ok... the 1MZs didn't have the HG problems like the 3VZs off the Gen 3. I'm still a Gen 3 fan - they're build more solid in my books. After stepping into an 01, I hated it. It just didn't feel right... but ya get that.

Close Mick - Gen 3s use the 5SFE (2.2L I4) and the 3VZFE (3L V6) the 5SFE I4 would be cheaper to replace due to the fact that there's less cylinders and easier access to the heads from my understanding. When it comes to the V6 3VZs, which are renowned for blowing the heads... it is a toss up on whether to replace the engine or get the heads done. From what I was told by a mechanic, this can take a working day or two to properly do. 3VZs... at least $800. Can't say for the 5SFE though.

Spose you might be right Lateralus, but why would someone have so much negative camber for a FWD on the rear wheels? It seems like something might be adjusted to cause the big camber angle. Either way - if it were my car, I'd be taking it to a suspension shop, getting them to check the camber settings and install or adjust camber bolts as needed and get a 4 wheel alignment otherwise he's gonna eat them tyres.

You might just wanna adjust the camber bolts on the car to make sure that you're not going to wear the tyres out too much. Sounds like the coilovers came from a RWD car or something? Did you get a 4 wheel alignment after you placed them on?