Whip Cracker

As previously stated there before mate, the bulbs in the shifter are most likely gone. Do what I did :P Go to Autobarn and get some different coloured ones :) And yeah - brake pads by the sound of it. Mine need doing too... lol. I'm getting mine done at 150k (1k away).

Don't spose if you know of different aftermarket parts available there in Canada mate?

Straight from Russ a.k.a BlindEyeSight on an Australian Camry Forum called auscam.freeforums.org... How to: Replace Struts and springs. I have posted this else where but thought it might be helpful for all those looking at replacing there struts / springs or lowering there Camry NOTE: This was carried out on a 99 V6 Camry (GEN4) Im not a certified mechanic. And I followed the Haynes Manual. This is a guideline to show whats involved I've noticed that that the GEN 3 is very similar in its setup, and im sure you could adapt it to other models.... If you are mechanically minded and love doing this work on your car, i do recommend DIY. it saves you a lot of money and you learn from it. its a win win situation. Recommended Tools: 2 jacks Jack stands socket set Spring Compressors Hammer Punch Allan key Haynes Manual (This is been the best tool for me so far) Parts used 4 Monroe GT struts 4 king spring lows 4 strut mates Goal: To replace the strut, springs and strut mates Strut Assembly (Front) Removal Before Starting make sure the park brake is on and block the rear wheels, to make sure the car will not roll. STEPS 1. Loosen wheel lug nuts, raise and support your car securely using the jack stand. Remove the wheel. 2. Once your wheel is off, you will see your strut assembly. Attached is the control arm (via the steering knuckle), Brake line, ABS speed sensor wire and a link bar that is attached to the stabilizer bar. Remove the ABS speed sensor bracket off the strut and then do the same for the brake line. Using a jack, support the control arm. (This is done because if the control arm falls it may destroy the brake line or ABS sensor wire.) 3. Loosen the damper shaft nut (Center nut on top) BUT DO NOT REMOVE IT. 4. Remove the link bar from the strut. You may need the allen key for this. 5. Remove the Strut-to-knuckle nuts (The nuts holding the control arm on) then knock the bolts out with a hammer and punch. Take a little care as the steering knuckle may fall outwards and stretch or damage the brake line. 6. Your strut assembly should now have nothing attached to it. Now remove the 3 strut mount nuts and remove the strut assembly 7. Using spring compressors, compress the springs sufficiently so that the seat or top mount is able to be moved. TAKE CARE AS THE SPRING WILL BE PLACED UNDER A LOT OF PRESSURE. Remove the damper shaft nut and suspension support (Suspension support is the top mount containing the 3 strut mount bolts.) 8. Next remove the seat and then remove the spring and place in a safe isolated spot. 9. Inspect the seat and rubber components as they may need to be replaced. 10. With the new strut make sure it is fully extended. Place the lower rubber insulator in to position making sure all grooves match up. 11. Setup and add the new strut mate to the new strut. (follow strut mate instructions for setup) 12. Compress new springs and carefully place onto the strut. Make sure the end of the spring is resting into the groove on the lower insulator on the strut. 13. Place the upper insulator into the seat matching the OUT arrow markings 14. Place the seat onto the strut making sure the flats on the damper shaft match the flats in the hole on the seat. 15. Make sure the OUT arrow faces toward the lower bracket of the strut, where the steering knuckle fits. Make sure the seat dose not slip from its position on the damper shaft. 16. Install the suspension mount and align the arrows with the lower bracket of the strut. Then install the damper shaft nut and tighten 17. Now follow in reverse from step 7 back to step 1 18. Then repeat for the opposite side. That is the front strut assembly done. After completing this process it is recommended that you have a wheel alignment done. That information is in the "How To" section. I'm planning to do this myself. You can hire spring compressors from most Auto Stores... I'd think a DIY would provide some good experience mate.

Sawasdee Karp :P When I was in Thailand last year, I saw a lot of done up Camrys :) Top knotch mate. I'd suggest emailing Toyota in Australia and seeing if they can send you their catalogue in PDF??

Well, if the 2.2L can hurl 1100kgs... I'd expect this car to do the same, maybe a tad better. I think... I THINK the Gen 5 Camrys weighed more than the Gen 3 Camrys, so it might be around the 1100-1200 capacity. That's the official towing, but you could easily pull up to 1300-1500 :P

I'll go with Supa Touring's word - he's a walking encyclopedia when it comes to these cars. Gen 3 V6s have the same ECU right through their era... they had OBD1... the Gen 4s with the 1MZs in them has the OBD2 diagnostics. Apparently you can get more info outta the OBD2.

180kms from what I know is just a normal service (oil, belt checks, etc etc). It's when it hits 200k is when you should be saving your moolah :) You'll be getting your Timing Belt, Water Pump, Idle Bearings, Coolant Flush, Brake Fluids redone... etc etc.

You have a couple of options - being that money isn't an issue: 1. Get ahold of a low kms 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 and source the TRD Supercharger. A direct bolt on basically. I know someone in the US that bolted one onto his car by himself within a few hours. 2. Swap the engine for the 2.0L 3SGTE ST205 with front mount intercooler. It'll probably cost more, as you'll need custom plumbing, intercooler install, etc etc. A mate from Auscam currently has his Gen 2 Camry show car in the shop getting the engine swapped around. Keep your eyes out in the car mags - he'll be in it before long, lol (Already had his car in AutoSalon in Brissy and stuff). 3. Turbo the 5SFE. Campbell from Auscam has only just completed his... from last post anyway. They needed to re-do the heads, and brought the compression to 8:1. Everything on the 5SFE needs to be custom made mate - expect to pay big dollars. If you're after an engine which has low compression, and lots of potential, go the 3VZ-FE 3.0L V6 engines from the Gen 3s... I know ANOTHER guy through the same forum I'm with who's in the process of building that up. My 2c :P Any info you need from those lads - auscam.freeforums.org :)

You have the aircon runnin at all??? I'd recommend resetting the ECU... let it renew the AFM and see if it fixes the problem. Thermostat not working properly?? What's the temp inside the car mate? Should be halfway once she's all warm.

Different vehicles react to Ethanol than others. From what I understand, Camrys don't like it at all. Corollas on the other hand, seem to like the stuff. After researching Ethanol, I can say that I'm never using it in my car. Stuffs up fuel related parts and underperforms the engine. I wouldn't want to risk anything that can break the car... I only use Shell fuel... I've tried heaps of fuels, and this works best. 95 or 98... depending on fuel prices :)

Because I personally know my mechanic, I get decent prices. To get a normal service I'm lookin around 80 bucks (I supply the oil though). I get mine done every 5k... Magnatec oil... everything else looked at, and small sundry expenses :P

Hehehe... if you have Touring, you'll notice that we already have 17mm sway bars anyway :P Maybe not as effective as Whiteline (Whiteline are great quality) but you have to look into new shockies and lowered springs (more lower to the ground - helps in movement)

Fulcrum are good, and from experience, I'd take SupaTouring's advice :) He definetely knows his stuff (I personally know him). From what I know, suspension is meant to be replaced every 40k (from my uncle and a few mechanics, etc etc - I'd believe my uncle way before any mechanic... he'd make em look like amateurs, lol). Obviously no one replaces the shocks every 40k, because it doesn't really interfere with the driving well until 100-150k anyway... depending on how you drive.

Seriously mate, the speakers are fine... mine belted out heaps better with the Mosfet 50w on each channel... PMPO of course... but hell, I know someone who has a mad-***** system in his Camry and hasn't even taken the rears out because really- they're not bad at all :P I would however, replace the fronts if you're gettin power. I'm just saying, the Toyota CD HUs are just utter crap - look at any forum and they'll have the same answer.

On the contrary - the stock speakers go really well if they have a decent HU. It's the HU that puts the noise through. Your Touring Series is a different year to mine... Gen 4 Tourers I believe came with 6 stackers.

This is my opinion... but how long you expect a CD stacker to last for? If it's survived since 94, it's done one hell of a trip mate. Get a better replacement one, or go the DVD headunit. Also gives you the opportunity to get a 7 inch LCD screen in there one day for watching stuff, or the lil rats who sit in the back :P

Gees, if ya daughter's that old, she probably not far off my age, lol. I'm serious about the bolts though, normally you need an engineer's cert for swapping out seats, let alone modifying the plate thingy that it sits on!

You share the same type of interest in what I want with my Camry :) I have the 95 Tourer, Gunmetal Grey... not too much done, but have custom door trim, custom front indicators, aftermarket red/clear/red tail lights and some other lil knick knacks... will be getting some aftermarket headlights too (clear depo lights with black background - will match perfectly on my car). You'll like some of the guy's Gen 4 cars in the club... and Thu's one, lol. - 1996 5SFE Silver - full body kit, aftermarket lights... HID conversion (proper), Webasto Sunroof, mags... all the tricks... - 1999 3SGTE - custom pearl paint with waves up the side... custom interior... featured in car mags :) - 1999 1MZ with TRD Supercharger... very nice car, one of my favs :) Heaps of others... I personally know most of these guys... You should see our US member's cars... when you have access to aftermarket parts like the US, you can do whatever ya like, lol... like a 3MZFE Couple with TRD Supercharger type stuff, lol... damn that was a good car... there's a vid on Camcrew with that too, lol

Lol... your daughter drives funny... I'm only 21 and I don't do that... I'm around 6 foot, but I like comfort, lol. You might wanna see if that's legal by chuckin them bolts in... lol.

Easiest thing to do... as simple as cleaning the butterfly clip, the intake itself (with TB cleaner), disconnecting the hoses and taking it off... and where the IAC valve is, just give it a dammmmnnn good soaking with TB cleaner! Connect it back up... you'll find it'll not turn over the first time, but normally the 2nd or 3rd it will, and there will be a cloud of white smoke at the end. All normal... and all should work well. If it doesn't work, you'll no doubt either try it again, or replace the IAC valve bro.

I find that resetting the ECU (disconnecting the battery) can help with a "refresh" of the car so to speak. I normally disconnect it for about 1/2 an hour and pump the brake a couple of times to drain whatever might be left. The ECU learns your driving patterns... so if you want a bit of "spirit" in the car, you need to drive a bit more "spirited" :) Works for me, I guess it should for you. If you have the 1997 V6.... do you have the 1MZ engine, or the 3VZ engine?? Both 3.0L engines... the 1MZ has OBDII, compared to the 3VZ's OBDI.

My opinion... go a DVD Head Unit, put all your best songs on a DVD and run off that :) I can't think of many people that listen to more than 4.7gb of music... lol

Hmmm... a Gen 3 with a 1MZ engine... I like the sound of that!!

In the Touring Series, they had the CD player, but didn't have the stacker in the boot like the Ultima/Grande. They're a double din HU, and sound like shyt so I really wouldn't bother investing in one honestly. An aftermarket HU with MP3 capabilities (even DVD) would be a good idea... the stock speakers sound pretty damn good with that too :)

I dunno my Cam only ever kicks to around 1400 on cold start and then drops to around 700 in under a minute Yeah Ariel, you needa clean out the IAC valve... I did it on mine, I have a DIY on Camcrew somwhere too - easy done. Did it to Davey's too, fixed the idling issue also.