DJKOR

The SRS ECU is in communication with the Main and Body ECU in the Aurion by means of CAN-BUS. In the event of an accident, the SRS ECU is able to communicate with these ECU's (more specifically the Body ECU) to tell it to unlock the doors. A very important safety feature... but not much use if you have a side on impact that stuffs the door mechanism up (took a bit of a kick to open my passenger door). The SRS ECU can also do things like cut ignition to the engine etc. That one I can confirm definitely happens.

Can I give you sh!t a well if I beat your stock XR6t time ... well until you lightly mod it at least.

Unless you are buying a 2nd hand helmet, most out there will conform to the new standard so you will be safe for any future changes should they occur. And for the cost of the helmet I posted, you can't complain.

A new car doesn't necessarily mean that it will be perfect. Not saying yours won't be, but I guess visual inspection on receiving it will tell you. Even this Ferrari... http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/full-detail-and-paint-correction-ferrari-458-italia-by-todd-cooperider-of-esoteric-auto-detail/ And if your car has the paint protection option, I wouldn't be expecting that to last long.

Thanks mate. I guess now I can show it off at night On a side note, I just realised the padded bag that my lights were sent in has green tape on it saying "Opened by Australia Post for inspection by Customs". Seriously, how can those lights look suspicious. Edit: That said, I have had customs seize the following before when it arrived in Australia. 1) Bullet bracelet, and 2) Some high power Blue Ray laser components. Maybe the destination address triggered some alert

Considered that... enough to try it out. Luckily I just have one laying around (this kit BTW). I have learnt one thing. I have to decide whether I want the plate lit or the back of the car dark. There isn't an in-between. If I use the original lights, it is just plain dark and the plate is unreadable. If I use the new lights, the plate is well illuminated, but so is the back of the car. If I dim the new lights, the plate doesn't get much light and it's getting that much closer to the way it was when I started... yet the back of the car still remains rather lit. I don't think I can really get a winning combination here. It really comes down to the design of the number plate. I'm just going to leave it as it is. I guess you will see what I mean on Thursday.

I was more concerned about them getting me for having number plate lights that are too bright. I didn't think of the white light thing. More along the lines of 'dazzling other road users'. That said, because they face directly down, they don't put out any glare that can be considered annoying. I tried using a very light tint film to dull it down a little, but the end result is that the plate is nearly as unreadable as it was before. But then if I get it so that my rear isn't lit up, then I am potentially up for getting done because my plates aren't readable from such and such distance. It seems to me that having half my a55 illuminated has to be the trade-off if I want my number plate lit up. Kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place I reckon. That said, once you are out on the black road, the ground doesn't look as lit up and it appears to be slightly less bright. Then add on the headlights lighting up the front and your eyes then adjust to having more light and the rear doesn't seem as bright as it was when the headlights were off. Once you are a few metres or so back, it actually doesn't look as bad. Still a little bright, but there isn't much more I can do. Damned if I do and damned if I don't. Let's just hope I get off with a warning should I get done for it the first time around. Edit: This is the seller BTW. http://stores.ebay.com.au/Alltronix-Automotive-Accessories Edit 2: At least if the quality of these aren't that great (though I doubt that because they look to be of a very very good quality), I can easily afford to have a few LED's on each side blow. I don't think I will loose much if they did.

I've heard degreaser (like the $2.50 Export can stuff) does wonders.... if you don't mind the smell.

I did read through some extensive discussion about all the air pressure differences etc and took that into consideration before cutting the holes. I was aware that by having some air able to enter the rear, it would potentially increase the air pressure in the engine bay therefore reducing the cooling effectiveness of the radiator. I tried to minimise the amount of inlet that I created and only cut away what was needed to get some airflow to the S/C body. So far it doesn't seem to be affecting the radiator effectiveness but until I get my hands on a proper thermometer, I can't really say if my judgement is true. The Aurion does seem to be pretty well designed in terms of how the engine bay trim etc is designed so I wouldn't expect it to loose that much cooling efficiency with the introduction of some higher pressure air at the rear. I guess time will tell. I will probably pick up a good thermocouple on the weekend.

You're idea can be done. It actually surprises me that no one has done it as well. The reason why I didn't do it is because of the following: 1) I wasn't going to bother spending the money required to do it neatly and properly. This was in relation to my last car. 2) Doing so will most definitely affect the clearance between the pipes and the ground, especially if you were going to keep the two cats on the headers which I would do if I did it to my car. The O2 sensors may just need some slight repositioning which can easily be done if you can get your hands on some O2 sensor connectors/extensions.

Today I tried to improve my number plate illumination. Instead I lit up the rear of the car. Ooops. Before: After:

So those that have seen my car in person at night will know that the design of my personalised plate blocks a lot of the light available to illuminate it properly. This was a problem that was also present in my last Aurion. Despite putting in some rather bright LED T10 bulb replacements, there was still not enough to light the plate up... which I don't particularly mind, but they are personalised plates and it is nice to have them showing. So basically it looked something like this: After seeing a set of complete lamp assembly replacements on the Thai website 'R-Style Racing', I thought I would pick up a set. I cound a pair on eBay which was more convenient, and then proceeded to purchase them. They look like this: So I got them today and just fitted them then. Using the word 'bright' would be a fairly large understatement. I misjudged just how bright they actually are. At least one positive is that it now lights up my number plate and you can read it from a distance. The only problem is that it now also lights up the rear of my car.

ha, reading about the lights in general; I still don't get how the staging lights work. If you're going for times, don't worry about the lights. But if you do manage to get in the lane next to a friend, then a little bit of fun doesn't hurt. In that case, if you want to work on your reaction time, focus on launching when the third yellow light is illuminated. Like I tend to tell myself to launch on '3'. 1 is the first yellow light, 2 is the second, and then when the count hits three, my foot gets planted.

Sorry... I must post this again for the LOLZ. I can't believe someone could drive that around:

Sad to see yet another Aurion move one... one of the members that I remember from back when I joined the boards. Good luck on your studies Nathan. Once that is all complete and your education starts to pay off, I hope to see you around here again in another Toyota. It was a pleasure to help out where I could.

eBay FTW! That's where I got mine. $40 pickup and it passes the requirements needed for the drags on any day (AUS/NZ 1698:2006). Sure it may not be something I would trust for use on a moto/quad, but for in car use, it is more than enough. Something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/pit-atv-dirt-quad-bike-helmets-ADULT-BLUE-M-FREE-GOGGLE-/310237672390?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item483b9b33c6

Yeah mate. Let me know when you find some Cusco gear for the Aurion. Because Ultra Racing used to send out red urethane bushes. Guess they stopped using them because they could probably get the black ones cheaper or something.

I would say most likely yes. But I somewhat doubt that this would be something they would be concerned about.

It isn't necessarily a better thing. It actually affects how much usable thread you then have for the nut to tighten against. The nut barely makes contact with all the thread there luckily so it is still safe. When you think about it though, the end tabs could have been a little thinner because the way the force is transferred, the tabs didn't really have to be that thick in my opinion.

You mean a comparison shot like the attached :P. By the way, part of it is a bit of a visual illusion. Yes the UR one is in fact thicker, but the difference appears more dramatic because the stock on is black which makes it look even thinner.

Each to their own. Not really my form of stylish, but props for the effort I guess. Just as crazy as this dude: Moon Model

I must beat my previous time to make the night more worth the $40. This is going to be tough. On a side note, 00UCH should come out. It's good to have more people at the same time so you have figures to compare to.

No.... but I'll send you here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=3

All I can say is don't waste your money on Philips Diamond Vision. Unless you can get them for under $50 for the pair. Even still though, I wouldn't spend $50 on them, but that's the maximum I would ever consider them to be worth.

Did you look in the FAQ's? Yes it is a Gen 6 Camry manual, but it's the closest you are going to get.