DJKOR

That height looks more appropriate now. Me likey.

Final verdict is that it's okay to stay in the meantime. Until I get my hands on a temperature probe, I'd say it is working to cool the supercharger. It doesn't appear to be letting in enough air to affect the engine bay air pressures so the radiator can still do it's job, but once again, I'll need a thermometer to test this. The next time it rains will also b another test I have to make because I don't really know how much water it can draw in at highway speeds. Either way, if it all goes to ****, I will use a some plastic furniture end caps to plug the holes because it's all pretty much in a non-visible area.

After hearing some suggestions from Andrew, I experimented a little with the idea behind 'cowl induction'. I didn't do this for the purposes of air induction though, I did it to attempt to lower my supercharger temperature. The one thing that the TRD suffers from is heat soak on the S/C. I was wondering if there was a way I could get some airflow over the S/C body to help cool it down a little as I have found that there is a little more power to be had when this is kept cool. So taking the idea of cowl induction where the high pressure air at the base of the windscreen can then be forced downwards through an inlet underneath/on the bonnet, I drilled a few well positioned holes in the plastic cowl underneath the rear of the bonnet. After some hard driving, I had noticed that this appears to be helping a little in cooling down the S/C. I don't own any thermometers for this purpose, but the fact that I could actually sit my hand on the S/C after some driving around where I previously couldn't definitely shows me that there is a difference. I plan to get a thermometer wired up later so I can see what difference it makes etc. Only thing I've noticed is that even though the total surface area of plastic removed equals about 15-20cm2 or so, the amount of extra noise that can be heard inside the cabin with the windows up is quite significant. The plastic cowl sits about 5cm away from the S/C and with only that small amount of plastic removed, you can now hear the rattling sound of the S/C when the engine is revving. It's funny how such a thin piece of plastic can actually block quite a bit of sound.

Actually, the AT-X now gets 16 inch alloy's as standard instead of steelies. As well, it includes driver and passenger vanity mirror illumination (not present in any pre-facelift model), Bluetooth handsfree/audio streaming, and AUX in for the stereo. So it didn't exactly stay the same.

Yeah mate. Easy done.

1 - Andrew357 - Drags and Dinner 2 - DJKOR - Drags and Dinner 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 -

Oh yeah, sorry I forgot to reply to this thread. Anyways, if you choose to tap into the cigarette lighter wiring at the front outlet, the wires are the two thick ones on the right half of the circled wiring harness. These should be blue (+12v) and white with black trace (GND).

There is a learner instructor car around the Brisbane area called Chan's Driving School or something like that. Appears to cater for learner Asian drivers. The plate makes me LOL:

Phone: Sony Xperia X10 Mount: None. Sits in it's leather pouch then in the pocket on the right side of the centre console together with my wallet. Head Unit: autome305 head unit from eBay (Auspack revision 2)

Spotted ROB219 (pretty sure it was you) driving along past Pig and Whistle/Friday's/Eagle Street Pier at 8:17pm tonight. You wouldn't have seen me since I was a pedestrian.

What I state is my own opinion so each to their own, but those figures I've seen them get for their 2GR's in the MR2 engine swaps are usually on a Dynojet dyno or some other hub dyno. They tend to produce figures that are close to what is stated as power at the flywheel. I usually take about 18% off those figures when making a comparison to a Dyno Dynamics dyno. Any bet that if you ran yours on a dyno like theirs, you'd get a similar figure. That's my opinion though. 280HP at the wheels with just an intake and exhaust is a little too optimistic in my opinion. I'm saying it's not good to dream, but sometimes you just have to know there are limits. Eg: Look at the following link. They say 286whp on a Dynapack dyno. Have a search on what a Dynapack dyno is. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/mwr-elise-v330-3-5l-v6-330hp-na-elise-88287/

That's a very respectable gain for an Aurion/2GR-FE. Looks like I have to get myself some of those headers and a Xede for my TRD.

Brisbane meets FTW! Was a good night out. My jaw is still sore from all the laughing that was had.

The Smart Entry remote uses a CR1632. You can pick it up from Jaycar for about $3.95. I would advise against keeping one spare in the car as heat is a good killer of Lithium batteries. You can feel free to keep a spare at home, but I'd still advise against is. You can usually get up to 3 years battery life from the CR1632 so it would always be a good idea to buy one 'fresh' when you need it.

From the sounds of it, weather isn't looking promising for the 'cruise'. I can't really say though because I am in Coolum right now and it is raining here. I'll definitely turn up tomorrow though regardless of what we end up doing.

HA HA. Mate im serious. That **** is funny. Will come clean though.MT Isa boy Livin in Gympie. Welcome to try your luck though. PM me if ya keen If Im keen? seeing as though you are threatening someone over the internet from the safety of your bat cave, I assume that the pussy cat in your avatar is you. what part of gympie do you live in? Seeing as you are using the internet to attract attention to yourself, I'm guessing your looks are just as bad as your avatar as well then. As for the Brisbane reference, that is just sooooo accurate.

You're the one that resurrected the thread you idiot.

Welcome back mate. What's new?

In the link above it I'll show you on Thursday if you are there. It's really simple. As for the button.... well let's just say I'm working on that. Got the tools and the knowledge to integrate a relay switch, just need to be a man and cut some factory wiring.

fucking racist... I was wondering how the heck you got around that filter. I looked closely for italics but didn't see. Sneaky bastard you are.

Thats coz it is. That badge under your right-hand taillight says so! :P I've been tempted to debadge it, but something just keeps holding me back.

Mother...... f***er Great stuff mate. Such envy.

You pretty much can't win eh. Which is why I never really cared in the first place. On a side note though, people always call the TRD an Aurion :P

From what I've heard (don't know if it is a product issue or consumer), the HID's on the Presara are not the greatest. If it is a product issue, it could be either the lens assembly or the actual HID lamp itself. There would be no harm picking up a pair of D4S HID lamps to try out if you can source them cheap. You should only get the 35W variety which is usually all you should be able to find for that use. If you really want some extra brightness though, I'd be getting 4300k-5000k. Any higher than that and you start to lose brightness a little, but if it is an OEM lamp product issue in the first place, then higher colour temperatures would still end up brighter. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense. I don't know how else to word it.

Awwwww yeeeeeaaaaaaaa!!!!! 1 - Andrew357 - Both 2 - DJKOR - Both 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - Won't vote because any of those dates suit, but I think the Wednesday/Thursday combo would work best.