DJKOR

Finally got around to washing my car. Only the outside for now; I'll clean the interior tomorrow. I also learnt the importance of keeping the exterior really clean. After months of not properly caring for my paintwork (ie. my regular waxing, claying etc), the elements have started to do their thing to my paint. The mix of long days at work especially interstate work and me treating this car more like a daily driver unfortunately led to this. As I was drying my car with it's microfibre towel, I noticed it felt a little gritty. Got out my 1/3 of a clay bar (which is usually enough to do the whole car under optimum conditions), and got to work on the bonnet and front 1/4 panels. After that exercise, it looks like I'm going to need an entire clay bar for my car. The bar just kept getting clogged and turning dark after doing just small sections. How could I have let this happen. Despite the car 'looking' pretty clean, it is going to need a bit of work. Looks like I've got something to keep me busy then.

I wonder how long it would take for you to get sick of this/for the novelty to wear off: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!On that topic, who would you prefer as your GPS voice?

Did you spray a clear coat over the white originally?

Count me in as well.

Nah mate. After 88,000km of driving, my Aurion does not produce such a noise. It does have this first gear whine though (kinda like a light supercharger whine), but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything. Probably just the gear ratio.

The remotes for Toyota's remote central locking is a non-recodeable system. In other words, removing the battery will not reset the code inside of it. You can feel free to change the battery yourself by popping it open (not sure if your remote may have a screw or not, but it should be pretty straight forward).

Finally got myself that rear left side hub bearing that has been the cause of so much grief over the last few weeks. Not the cheapest thing to buy at around $270 but at least it was better than the retail price of around $360. Still haven't quite got the full energy to go through the effort of changing it yet, but all is good. I also ordered a set of DBA Street Series (because 4000's weren't available and would be overkill anyways) slotted rotors for the rear. The left side is scored due to the effects of a bad bearing, so once those come in, I'll see how I feel about changing it all out.

It's not that I didn't want to be sarcastic or blunt (HT saved me from that), it's just I was bored and had nothing better to do. In most cases I will advise to bring it up in a thread that is active with discussion along the lines of what you want to ask, but once again HT also said what I was originally going to.

The reason why the two main questions you have asked have minimal coverage is because the simple answer is that no-one has gotten the digital TV upgrade and no-one is using TomTom on their navigation unit. Firstly, the antenna placment though has been answered and such a thread is the following. If you were to get the digital TV tuner, the same still applies: TV antenna Secondly, TomTom is either made to run on specific TomTom units or Windows Mobile. Getting it to run on Windows CE which is what these head units use requires a bit of work to try and unpackage everything and get it running perfectly. As a result, you won't really find anyone using it. In most of our navigation head unit threads, we have discussed the different software and iGO8 appears to be the most user friendly.

Damn. Out of all police cars they had to wreck.

As do I. But this is a 50/50 mix of being pulled over by cops once before and them telling me to fix it or I can't drive it home (had H4 with built in halogen bulb, so I just swapped it over), and the fact that I don't trust HID's to work 100% of the time and bulbs are a little more reliable. Don't want to be stuck in te middle of nowhere with two busted bulbs/ballasts.

For the pre-facelift this was a Presara only feature. Without checking Toyota's website (because I'm a bit lazy at the moment), I would say this has now extended to the Sportivo range but it's not something I would imagine the AT-X would have.

If the bulb is tinted and does not consume more power than the stock bulb, then the claims they usually make are not entirely true. The non-tinted bulbs with extra brightness though (like Vision Plus and Osram Night Breakers) are a different story and those specially tinted HIR bulbs are also another exception as they produce more light than the expected power output due to some nifty tricks. But in general, a blue tinted bulb is not going to be brighter than its stock halogen counterpart.

Nice ZRE there Pete. Definitely a good upgrade over the old Camry... just missing the epic large TOCAU advertisement on the rear. Big thanks for the ride in it while I was down in Sydney while it still had the new car smell. One of those pleasures in life.

A LOT of difference. The BlueVision bulbs achieve a different tone of light by using a (blue) coloured layer on the bulb glass. The difference here is that you are going to lose some light output for the sake of getting a slightly different light output colour. The HID's on the other hand produce their colour due to the nature of the way the light is produced. As a result, HID's don't lose any light output (which is already brighter than a stock halogen bulb).

Sounds like a bit of a rip off doesn't it. My Aurion can get it's major service from the dealership for less than that.

Bit of an over-dramatic response there. If anything, if you tried to push it hard enough, you would just get more knocking than usual in which the knock sensors would detect and adjust the engine parameters accordingly... resulting in less power output from the engine. For the original question, if you couldn't empty your tank or empty it enough to pump in some higher octane fuel to mix it, or add a bottle of octane booster, then you just need to drive it easy to avoid knocking at higher throttle positions.

^ Friend whore much :P

I don't want to be blunt, but you could have EASILY answered you own question by taking a few simple minutes to look at your own car. The fuse box has a diagram on it will confirm your diagram they sent you. And by the way, I wouldn't bother changing to 20A fuses unless you experience issues. 15A fuses that are already there is more than what you need.

No worries. Confusion on my part mainly due to what we were referring to here:

Guys.... he's not referring to the latch. That is obviously black. Look at the part of the body behind the latch. It's like it was masked around then sprayed red. There is a 'shadow' of black behind the latch and this is what he is referring to. He's asking that maybe this indicates repair because in most cases you would spray the entire area before re-attaching that latch and that area should therefore be red.

It may... or it may not. You need to make that call yourself by trying it out. There are a fair few factors at play here. The age and condition of the engine can make a bit of a difference. Some older engines have been known to benefit quite well from moving from regular unleaded to premium unleaded. If your engine experiences a bit of knocking/pinging at the moment, moving to premium would be a definite performance increase but apart from that, any other performance gains would barely even be noticed. Personally, I would think that you would be wasting money moving all the way to 98RON for your engine. All you REALLY need to do is move to standard premium unleaded (95RON), but each to their own on that matter really.

Depending on your driving conditions, there are MANY different tires you can get. This also means that there is a vairiety of tires to suit any budget you have as well. The price of the tire will depend on what size you require (I'm unsure of that as you may have different wheels to stock, but your tire placard on the drivers door or your tire itself can show you your needed tire size), and you can also shop around as many tire shops always have different specials running. I would be estimating around $89-$120 per tire for a decent all-rounder tire if you were to require stock sizing for your Camry. As for a wheel alignment, you would be looking at around $55 for you standard 2-wheel alignment to $100 for a 4-wheel alignment from most tire shops. Locals would be able to give you some help here since for example, around Brisbane I can find places that do a 4-wheel alignment for around $50.

You would have to ask though, these cars that would offer an upgrade as such, would they really be an upgrade or just activating a tune on an otherwise 'de-tuned' vehicle. Therefore, you may feel like you are getting more power by spending for an upgrade but realistically, the engine was built to do that in the first place but they just never run it like that normally.

Putting the "Super" in SuperDave.