DJKOR

You're telling me. I made my car all nice and shiny for tonight as well as checking my brakes, tightening my wheel nuts, and checking my air pressures.

That's good then. Simple troubleshooting. Two possible causes: 1) Main fuse is blown (the one on the power cable to your sub). Should be close to the battery and it large to visually inspect with ease. Have a look at that first. 2) Your amp is not getting it's 'trigger' power. How did you acheive this? Did you wire the trigger wire to the accessories socket? If so, the fuse there has most likely blown. This will be on the inside fuse panel behind the glove box. Fuse will either be the one labelled "CIG" or "PWR OUTLET" for front and rear respectively. I've had mine blow a couple of times before.

As mentioned earlier, we park on the streets. I'm not sure what the situation would be like on a Saturday night but should be fine. Here is a map showing common parking areas. The restaurant is more towards Adelaide Street than that maker sits:

I would try to unplug the line out converter if you can to rule that out first. Otherwise I would say the amp inside your head unit is fried.

Well if you say your speakers are just running off the head unit and you are getting no sound when your head unit is on and playing music, then something is wrong with either the head unit or speakers. I would rule out speakers initially because having all 6 blow would be seriously unlucky. I don't think it is fuse related because your stereo wouldn't turn on at all if that were the case. On the blown speaker topic, you would have your amp running off a line out converter right. If that's the case, even if your speakers were blown, you would still get some bass at least. If you got no bass, this takes us back to step one where I would think your stereo is stuffed.

At the back of your glovebox, there is a cutout that allows access to the cabin air filter. This is the perfect place to run your iPod cable if you intend on leaving it in the glovebox like most people. Only issue is the navigation for the iPod is crap on the Auspack unit and in my opinion, the idea of leaving it in the glovebox doesn't work out since you can probably control it easier on the iPod. Anyways, if it did work properly, this is what you would do. Here is a photo for reference. There is lots of space to run the cable up to there from the head unit so no need to cut or drill:

Ahhh.... that Kev. Just didn't have a car to associate the name/face to yet.

that would be me :) You can take Tabby's seat. Brennden would have reserved a seat for her. I have a spare 0.5 watt Uniden you can borrow. Range isn't crash hot with that amount of power, but should help. At the very least, you can listen to everyone.

Welcome mate. So we would expect to see you out at the Brisbane meets a fair bit?

I'm not too sure mate. I can kind of see something in that photo that looks yellow but you need to get it in brighter light or a camera with a flash. Off that topic though, I just find it funny in a way how everyone is panicking like crazy, yet all the fuss that I have heard about these hoses busting are from the States. I haven't really heard of any cases in Australia so far. Not saying it can't happen because it is the same part you would think.... but still. It's like the massive talk about accelerators getting stuck WOT on the American Camry's due to either floormats or throttle ECU issues. I'm yet to hear of an Australian case.

Well in my best efforts, I tried to make a map. May have possibly failed. Here goes anyways. Edit: I notice the fail at point C. I can't be bothered to try and fix it. Just take the D'Aguilar exit off the Bruce if that confuses you. Try this link for size (check the length in the address bar): http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=d&sou...e=UTF8&z=10 And because I am nice:

Nice. It's always funny how plates can clean up the front and rear look of a car.

Ahh, the comfort of having some good suspension travel. Damn it Mick. We shouldn't have said anything. Bad jinxing there. Sorry to hear Tabby. Look forward to seeing/meeting you out at a meet one day.

Effort wise, for them it is much easier (therefore cost efficient) to change just the rubber hose. This way, the two metal ends stay attached to the engine, and they just remove and replace only the rubber piece. This can all be done from the top of the engine bay. Changing to the metal pipe will require more effort and for them, the most efficient fix is what they will choose.

Man, if those aren't Ash's, someone better get them. That is cheap. That said, having the starting bid at that amount... that definitely seems sus. However, looking at the photos, you can see a bit of kerb rash on at least two of the wheels. I'm sure Ash wouldn't have had any on his. If he did, at least that could be one identifying sign of whether they may be his.

You don't need an inspection don't you if your car is under 5 years old right? If that's the case, you should be fine. Otherwise it needs to be enclosed (for NSW). I'm not sure what your registration inspection covers though. A NSW local would have to answer that.

Spotted parked outside Coles Jindalee around 9:00pm tonight: A black Echo, plates "EKH01", had full body kit on it, had Sportivo badging on the side skirts, debadged Echo on the rear and replaced with TRD badge, blackened headlights, chrome tail lights, and Corolla Sportivo wheels.

More importantly; make sure it is fused appropriately. When Mick mentioned that, I just imagined a major issue if the sub power cable was to short out and have an inappropriate fuse. Burnt out ECU wiring will not be fun.

I'd be glad to help out. Won't be until next weekend though (17th or 18th) due to work commitments. Otherwise the evenings during the week would work.

Yeah mate, over here. Looks like this:

LOL. You should be a comedian. I'd pay to see those several seconds quicker round Nebo.

A potential car buyer is not going to necessarily look at it in the same way remember.

That there would be your answer. You have reset your ECU. You better drive it hard for the next hundred k's or so. Make it learn it.

I was starting to think you were crazy being able to hear a difference after removing the lower resonator because I could not hear anything. Then I remembered that at the same time, I changed my intake vacuum hoses around which pretty much cancels out that lower path. Now you need to do that same and also change the upper resonator. Then you will really hear the difference.

If you think that made a difference in sound, you should hear what changing the upper resonator together with changine the vacuum hoses around does. Nowhere near a SRI, but it sounds half decent. I am so buying a K&N SRI after Christmas. I can guarantee you that the increase in RPM had nothing to do with removing that resonator. The lower resonator barely provides any resistance to airflow, so the engine won't even notice it gone. I would say that it was more to do with the engine 'cold start' process. I've had it happen with mine before where it thinks it is a cold start even when the engine is warm, and idles higher than normal, but drops down within about a minute.