DJKOR

TheMirror: Basically, the idea shown in your diagram is correct. The connection to the head unit side goes directly into the socket that connects to the head unit itself, which would be this one: Then he has run it direct to a 3.5mm stereo socket mounted in the tray in front of the centre console box. He has just added a connector there for ease of installation/removal like this:

The power ratings of stock head units aren't usually a published value. Without testing/measuring it, in most cases you will just have to estimate. I would estimate it to be anywhere between 25 watts and 40 watts RMS per channel. In my opinion, changing the stock speakers is definitely going to improve your bass... even with those cheaper Pioneer ones. The amount of extra bass you can get out of any aftermarket speakers though depends on how well you can seal the rear of the speaker from the front of the speaker. Usually putting some Dynamat or something like that on the door/parcel shelf would help. It's up to you how far you want to go. You can certainly run those speakers from the stock head unit, but if you want to run them up to their full potential, an amplifier would be recommended. If you get an amplifier though, I would recommend doing it right the first time and getting better speakers. As well, just be aware that the depth of the speaker will determine whether you can use them or not. Those cheaper Pioneer ones may be too deep to be used properly in the doors or the parcel shelf. The speaker thread pinned to the top of this forum (for now) has some recommendations and measurements in there.

Yes this is a useful guide, however due to the amount of people I would predict that would actually follow through with it, I don't think it is necessary to add it to the pinned section. Instead, I'll add it to the FAQ later and I'll try and get the pinned section cleaned up as per this suggestion: Suggestion: Pinned section I'll also tidy up the FAQ so that it lists the questions at the top which the FAQ covers so it makes it easier to tell if it answers a newbies question. I PM'ed a mod a few weeks back but they weren't able to do this at the time. I will PM another mod and sort out the FAQ later after I finish removing this palm tree outside.

Is this with your foot on or off the brake? How cold are we talking about? Within the first minute or two? If so, you would find that in the first minute or two on a cold startup, the engine runs at a higher RPM than when warm. This can result in extra vibration being felt, but shouldn't be anything over the top. Just one possibility.

Well that is an option, but alternatively (and a much neater way) would be to use a multimeter and find which wire in the passenger kick panel leads to the reverse lights. It all comes down to how you want it to look. I would just recommend searching eBay for reverse cameras and looking for one you like.

No there is no such thing as a 'fast lane' but in general speak, if you said that to most people, they would get the point. It's more common courtesy in my opinion. Get well out of town and people start to really comply to the "Keep left unless overtaking' law. Get closer to the city and it gets out of hand. Sure they have all the right to be in the right lane and travel on the speed limit, but if they aren't going to be able to overtake while going on the speed limit, or step up a bit in speed to overtake someone going a fraction under/on the speed limit, then it is common courtesy to move into the left lane to let others overtake. Most of the annoyances for people failing to keep left are on the highway anyways, so in those cases, they aren't entitled to just ride in the right lane unless they are overtaking.

Yes this is the wire to make it switch automatically went you put it into reverse. I would most likely think you connected it to the wrong red wire. One of those red wires is constant +12v, the other is +12v only when in reverse (as it runs to the reverse lights). Are you sure you connected it to the correct red wire?

That reversing camera will do the trick, but requires drilling through your boot lid to make it fit. For example:

Nice photos. Good to see you have some tips on those mufflers now. Nice rear badge as well. Got any close-ups?

Yeah. I'm a +1 on that statement. Will, just harden up and sacrifice some boot space.

Schweeet. Now you have the same stopping performance that I do.

Those ones, like most other under-seat subs I have seen, have the amplifier built into it. Stuff like this is an order only item I would imagine. Would also imagine it costing quite a lot.

Very good response there Deanja. I can't say I have seen or heard of such a thing occurring, but it does make perfectly good sense when you consider that the air compresses and can make the pump go a bit funny.

Well I can't help but to jump on the bandwagon as well. So a Merry Christmas from me to everyone here at TOCAU. Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

You need to think of it from a logical point of view. How can just a couple of simple magnets improve the fuel going to your engine to the point that it is better for your engine? It's the same fuel going there. Here's something to read if you want. Fuel saving gadgets - a professional engineer's view

I would assume you have driven this road many times before so you would know if there were any irregularities in it? I've never really had a case like that come out of nowhere, but I have had it happen due to road conditions. I don't know how to explain it, but I think it is a minor dip made in the road by trucks and other heavy vehicles. When one of your front tires manage to make it's way into this dip/channel, it tends to pull your steering all sorts of ways. That's about all I've experienced that could be close to that issue that has no obvious signs. Other things like audible lines etc can cause some vibration but these are pretty obvious if you drive on it. After that, I'd pretty much be just thinking of random things that can happen but are like a 1-in-a-million type of thing. Things like an object on the road getting stuck to one of your front wheels (or flung to the inside of the wheel) putting it badly out of balance until it got forced off or something like that.

I connected mine by extending the wire and connecting it in the passenger side kick panel. Photos can be seen here. Under standard head unit wiring, blue/white usually represents a remote turn on for an amplifier. If you have a multimeter you can test to see if this wire goes to +12v when the head unit is turned on. If so, you can use this to turn on any amps you have/plan to have in the future. Looking at the diagram in the manual you have provided, this seems to be the likely candidate since there is no other wire marked for the amp remote trigger. Previously I thought the 'CNTR' stood for 'CENTRE', but I guess they meant 'CONTROL'. Leave disconnected. Chances are you don't have any hardware to utilise it. Just connect it to the casing of the head unit. Secure it under a screw that holds it together.

Cosmic Gate - Analog Feel (Livecut Remix) Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

And this is yet another way these guys manage to make money on things like this. I really need to get into this mod chip business. Could make some good money on the side.

^ Damn. That spider issue would certainly annoy the f* out of me.

That certainly is dodgy as. Ever heard those budget PC subwoofers? Well this would sound just as bad.

How about you buy it... my $100 bet is still open as per my quote above. A Brisbane Aurion member here has already tried it and it dynoed worse than Rowan's... 193.1HP (144kW) vs 199.7HP (149kW). In the BMW thread included in my quote, the guy there reported that he a lower figure as well when he put the chip on compared to with it off. Anyways, it's for the buyer to decide. It's your money after all.

I'll repost it here for anyone who comes across it: I'll join you on that one. This whole market of cheap and simple plug in performance chips in unbelievable. Unless you are changing the ECU, getting it properly reprogrammed, or adding a legitimate piggyback, you are are not going to gain anything but a false sense of satisfaction that your car "feels" more powerful. I would give someone $100 and cover the price of the so called 'Performance Flasher/Chip' if they can prove that by adding this chip, they will get an extra 14HP out of their Aurion as the site calculates you will gain. People will fall for anything these days. On a side note, it's only an example from one car, but nevertheless: Volo flash "Performance Chip" Dyno results are in!

Don't buy it unless you want to waste money. here is what I have already said about such 'chip': I'll join you on that one. This whole market of cheap and simple plug in performance chips in unbelievable. Unless you are changing the ECU, getting it properly reprogrammed, or adding a legitimate piggyback, you are are not going to gain anything but a false sense of satisfaction that your car "feels" more powerful. I would give someone $100 and cover the price of the so called 'Performance Flasher/Chip' if they can prove that by adding this chip, they will get an extra 14HP out of their Aurion as the site calculates you will gain. People will fall for anything these days. On a side note, it's only an example from one car, but nevertheless: Volo flash "Performance Chip" Dyno results are in!

LOL (directed at Mick). Bush mechanics FTW.