DJKOR

Well the use of the right LED's won't require the use of heatsinks and would outlast the life of the car as well. I guess this argument is two-way. Both can have a long or short life depending on quality. My main concern with the CCFL is due to the fact they are a tube formed into a circular shape. Because of the way such lights work, having them in a straight tube with external support like in LCD's etc is a more durable design.

Wow, thats a lot in a short period of time. Well his Aurion IS a taxi.

In ideal situations, CCFL's can last quite a while, but as mentioned, it's the heat and vibration that the headlight receives that can shorten this life. Yes the inverters can fail, but the tube is also just as susceptible to failure. After all, it's basically a miniature fluorescent light.

I would avoid any form of headlight style lighting that uses CCFL. These are very easy to break/burn out especially on a car where it experiences heat and vibration. Having one blow would mean opening the headlight all over again to change them. If you were to get any form of style lighting for your headlights, I would highly recommend LED.

that being said, if you reset the ECU, the problem will still persist correct? Only if the problem still persists. If you get an error code then fix the problem, the error code will remain there for some distance (like 50-100km) before automatically clearing itself. Forcefully clearing it gets rid of it quicker. Useful when you get a check engine light as a result. Eg. I once started my car with the MAF unplugged. As a result, my check engine light lit up. I then realised what I did and stopped the engine and plugged it back in. I then started the car again and even after 30km of driving, the check engine light was still on. I reset the ECU... problem solved.

I'm a noob.. I want to do this but im not confident enough to take it apart >_< For what it's worth, just removing this does not provide much increase in induction sound. You have to be listening to notice it. Removing it though is as easy as shifting the battery aside and then removing the front snorkel and reaching down to take out the resonator. It's like a 5 minute job.

^ Yeah, I saw some guy in the States has one of those on his white Camry. Shame the Camry bonnet is different to the Aurion. That one works way better than the Holden scoop, but in my opinion it still doesn't blend in the best.

I think the video describes itself: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Or you could go: "Let's celebrate this new year with a bang"

I did say I know yours is different, but there is one thing in common... .... the bulb is in the same area. There is nothing else in that area that can generate heat except of electrical wires if they were to burn out... but in that unlikely scenario, this would be a damaging effect and would only happen once.

Edited. BTW jdmwhore, you put the contents after the '=' sign into the youtube tag.

2007 Aurion - Had 25,000km on the clock on April 2008. Edit: And over those 65,00km travelled, I have used 7126 litres of fuel coming to a cost of $9718 !!!

Until my warranty expires, I am having all my major services done at the dealer. This is a personal preference though because I like to beleive that they at Toyota would know just that little bit more than another mechanic (ie. they can connect the intelligent tester up etc). Whether or not this is the case is a different story... but I like to imagine otherwise. That price definitely does seem high though. My 75,000km service cost me about $250 and that was providing my own oil and not requiring an air filter change. My car just ticked over the 90,000km mark. I am really not looking forward to getting my 90,000km service. That one costs quite a bit as it is thanks to the spark plug change but as well, I'll be getting a transmission fluid change. The swear filter wins again. For those that can't figure it out, it is http://www.carservice.com.au/car-service-servicing-guide-2.aspx?sid=14225

As long as you only feel this heat then your lights are on, then there is a definite answer for you. The heat you feel is generated by a bulb. Your gear selector is different, but you will find there is a bulb around the same area. The issue you are getting is described here: Heat from centre console when in sports mode?

I'm answering this with an assumption here so I am prepared to be incorrect. NRG71C: I'm guessing your concern here is that the brake pad is touching the rotor right? Is it providing much resistance when you jack up the car and try to turn the wheel/hub/rotor? If it can rotate with only the smallest fraction of resistance, then this is okay. All brakes will always be in light contact with the rotor... this is part of their design. On that above test, make sure that before you jack your car up to test the rotation, you have not released the hand brake without driving first. If you only just released the hand brake before trying to rotate your wheel, you may get a little bit of extra resistance.

This question followed my your next post isn't making much sense to me. From reading this above question, it would seem the heat you are talking about heat originating from the gear selector. If you have any heat from there, it would have nothing to do with an overheating transmission. Out of curiosity, have you only noticed this at night when your lights are on?

Hmm, this kind of goes against what I said. I believe the aircon works great. I've been in cars where the aircon literally ONLY blows "COOL" air on really hot days like today. But the Aurion pumped out freezer cold air. Not completely against what you said. A more efficient air conditioner could blow out freezing cold air as well, but the key here is how much heat it can absorb. The air conditioner is essentially a heat absorber and the more heat you can absorb, the quicker you can cool the surroundings. I think the air conditioner is great. I'm just saying that it could maybe be more effective. I'm saying this on behalf of others because the only time I use my aircon is for it's weekly 15 minutes to help keep the oils circulated. I drive with my windows down and fan on full when in summer heat.

eBay mate. There are sellers there that ship to Australia. Just go to ebay.com.au and search 'Camry K&N intake' then on the search results page, scroll down and select all items from international sellers. This then shows those that offer shipping to Australia.

More on that topic of surface area, when you are cooling down your car with the A/C, you have to remember that the air conditioner is working against a radiating heater in essence. Think of what happens when the sun shines on the roof of the car and the doors, etc. It heats up to the temperature outside the car (even more in the sun), and then this heat radiates into the car. That said though, I must admit I have seen better aircons out there. I'm guessing that Toyota put a slightly under-rated system in the Aurion compared to what it should have had. Maybe this had something to do with being more fuel efficient?

I just don't get how someone can be so fed up with having some extra vibration or gear engaging shudder when the engine is cold. There is a reason why when the engine is warm, it is referred to as operating temperature. I still don't understand why people complain about such simple things.

Which unit are you referring to? The Auspack unit? If so, the Auspack unit has a single stereo RCA out. There is no dedicated subwoofer output.

Everyone is going to have their own thoughts towards a brand. Hyundai got off to a bad start in terms of quality so things like this tend to stick. It's not only the looks that are being considered here... it is the build quality. It's like how I hate Nike because all my Nike shoes I had as a kid kept falling apart really fast. I definitely have more faith in Hyundai now though. The name still sounds cheap to me however.

Have you tinted your side and rear windows as well? This can make difference towards making your air conditioner more efficient. Remember as well that the Aurion is a bit larger than your old Camry. This equates to more surface area in contact with the sun which can then heat up and radiate this into the car. As well, keeping air flowing over the condenser (in front of the radiator) will increase the efficiency of the air conditioner by allowing the evaporator to absorb more heat. This is why the air conditioner works it's best when you are moving at highway speeds.

RICE RACING in the Kluger forum had a hell experience trying to get them to use the metal pipe and in the end they just gave him the metal pipe and told him that he would have to fit it himself. I would imagine they are going to use the rubber replacement for you unless you purchase it yourself.

pretty much What does that make the Japanese?