DJKOR

If you can do some manual calculations that would be great. Just keeping in line with my intentions of this thread. Also you will find that unless you keep driving the way you did (or better) for the first 10 minutes, over the distance it takes to use the fuel in the tank, you will find that it is probably going to change from that value.

Was that including them fitting it or yourself? At that cost (even $200), you will have to fit it yourself. Those above that bought them have fitted it themselves. This is why they are telling you to take care when fitting it. If installation was included, they wouldn't have to tell you that.

There is always going to be someone out there bagging the Aurion. Don't Wheels and Motor have a strong bias towards Ford and Holden anyways? I never listen to their reviews. The best review for yourself is your own.

Thanks Lee :D Nah, I certainly wasn't an A grade student. I'm just good with something if I can get my hands around it. Since I've pretty much taken my Aurion apart, I've got a decent idea of how everything ties together. I was the type of kid that would take a screwdriver to toys and take them apart to see what makes them tick. I'm just a hands on learner.

On that wear and tear topic of things, I just remembered this. Just showing that my hard driving may not be as tolling on the car as people seem to think. I first reported getting this issue at around 75,000km in September 2009. This is many kilometres more than what other people have been getting the problem at and I had been driving it hard ever since 28,000km.

Hehehe. I live on these forums. Easy to catch people out Well since this thread has had some pictures provided and is not officially off track, you are best removing the badges with fishing wire and a citrus oil based goo remover. A hairdryer helps as well to heat the badge up and soften the adhesive. You simply warm up the badge, run the fishing wire underneath and just saw between the badge and body to break the adhesive. Goo remover helps clean up the remains.

The sound only occurs at slow speeds of about 10km/h. I wouldn't doubt that the driving I have done has added to the wear an tear, but I wouldn't call it 'major wear and tear'. I exaggerated a little. To me it sounds really loud, but that's because I am intentionally listening to it. It's no different to the sound others are getting with the intermediate shaft etc as I have heard that one in person. Remember, my car is up to 90,000km as well and it has been driven on some pretty harsh roads just normally. Roads like the Newell Highway which Mick here would agree was a bit rough. Anyways, I accept any extra wear and tear by the way I choose to drive my car. I'd be willing to bet that it would last as long, if not longer than an Aurion driven sedately like yours. I inspect my car all over every month as part of my maintenance and tighten anything that may be loose or replace anything that my be worn. It's how the car is cared for that helps with giving it a good life.

Once again:

Oh noes... another thread hijack from me Anyways, the boot Aurion badge is physically smaller than the ones from the door. I'm not sure about you, but in my photo you can see the door one seems to be a great fit. The boot one would only be smaller than that.

Trust me, my issue is not normal. I get mine while turning at slower speeds, and when accelerating or decelerating. It can be heard in the car even with the fan on full and sounds like a wheel is going to fall off. I have just gotten used to it. That's my solution in the meantime. And as I stated, Fulcrum even inspected it and told me I had worn steering rack mounts. Does that sound like normal?

I'm stuck at Hyatt Sanctuary Cove and have to watch movies to waste time... yeah I know, my job just sucks doesn't it . So I was watching 'Push' last night, and apart from ogling at Camilla Belle, I got this song in my head which I am now listening to again: The Notwist - Consequence Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

I didn't actually state your suspension would be affected by larger wheels. I will reword it, but what it's meant to mean is that your suspension is your weak point in performance. In other words, you are paying attention to your wheel weight and brakes showing that you are picky about losing performance, but after all that, you will still have the softer AT-X suspension. It's like having a big engine but a weak transmission. The suspension is part of the performance so it's not something to avoid if you are going to be picky about minor things like wheel weight.

Damn that looked fun.

That's good to hear you got all that resolved then. At least we now know where the mute ground connection is should anyone need it.

What a bummer there Steven. You would think it would be that same harness simply because the other wires on that match up with the stock unit... as in the harness where the AUX input is is also the one that has the steering wheel controls and speed signal input. It's also a bit of a huge bummer that it doesn't match up even with the 'Navigation' service manual. I wish I could help, but I think this is out of my hands until I can get a unit to play with.

That sure sounds awfully familiar to mine. Just remember that when the car is stationary, any noises you get from moving the steering wheel as such should be taken lightly, but if you definitely hear it while driving (which I'm sure you stated), then it is something to consider. When I first found that knocking, I related it to the steering rack end. A Toyota service advisor said that is one part they replace when the problem occurs. But when I got a wheel alignment at Fulcrum after I put my TRD suspension in, they said I have worn steering rack mounts which are causing that knocking sound. He said that's all I would need to fix to get rid of the knocking. Unfortunately though, it's not that easy (Note the 'NO.1' reference on the attached diagram). This is why I have also heard reports of Toyota changing the entire steering rack.

Just go for the 19 inch wheels. Unless you plan on racing it around a mountain (a proper mountain :P) or taking it to the track, then I wouldn't worry about any marginal performance difference in larger wheels of your brakes not being able to cope. It would take some rather heavy wheels to notice the difference in the Aurion. The stock brakes are fairly crap anyways, so new rotors are a good upgrade regardless. But yeah, you won't find any braking issues on larger wheels. If anything, your weak point in performance is going to be your suspension.

Sorry, that was my bad as well. I didn't notice the obvious. I didn't look at the picture hard enough to see that the yellow wire (together with the blue red and black that I can see) is part of something external to your head unit... which you mentioned could be your Nokia hands-free. I completely ignored the fact that those loose wires were not part of your radio harness. In that case though, lucky I brought that up because you'd be asking a question nobody can answer without further details. As it stands at this point, without trial and error, I can't help you out there. Whoever installed this obviously found that one of the spare pins on one of the plugs acted as a mute connection and then plugged into that. I would predict that it is on either connector F6 or F7 simply because of the size of the yellow cable and the connector at the end (which looks like a broken off connector so it would fit). In that case, you have two options... F6-9 or F7-4. Testing with a multimeter first would be advised.

You're definitely grounding the right pin? When you look at the back of the connector on the head unit, pin 19 is the second from the left on the lower row just like in this diagram: And you are definitely using a 1k ohm resistor? Apart from that, just make sure you have a solid connection with the pin when you connect the socket.

These engines have VVT-i. The entire purpose of VVT-i is to constantly be changing so that you achieve performance and economy. The service manual for the 2AZ-FE states: And for you unique, for the 2GR-FE on the Aurion: In addition to that, only for the Aurion (so just for you unique), the U660E 6-speed automatic transmission has "AI (Artificial Intelligence)-Shift Control". This is primarily for a smooth drive, but as a result, will mean that if you drive it like a granny, it will start shifting like that. It's for smooth operation and not fuel efficiency purposes:

Are you sure every speaker was working? The solid yellow wire should be your rear-left speaker negative. To find where it was meant to go, you should have made decent use of my FAQ. It's there for a reason: Aurion audio wiring setup

I'm guessing that the not so huge difference you are experiencing is like chicken said, where the brightness of the HID's reduce the difference. I have found the Aurion high beams are actually quite bright as they are. I find them way more brighter than other cars because Toyota use HIR bulbs for the high beam. And on that topic: This statement does not apply to the Aurion high beams. The Aurion high beams are a 9011 HIR bulb only made by GE and Toshiba. You can alternatively use a HB3/9005 bulb (available from the manufactures specified by chicken), but modifications to the bulb (trimming plastic) need to be made for it to fit. The only exception to the above statement I made is if Toyota have changed to the HB3 bulb on the facelift model. I didn't particularly pay attention to that when I looked at one.

The clunking should definitely not be there. If you get it, it will either be the intermediate shaft, the steering rack end, or the steering rack mounts. So far these seem to line up with what Toyota is doing to fix it in that they replace either the intermediate shaft, the steering rack end, or the entire steering rack.

Counting the pins is a good start if you are having difficulty. Anyways to make it easy for you, here is what you should be looking at:

Ooops. I forgot to post the link here when the thread was made. I did put it in the FAQ though for future reference, but if anyone comes across this thread in a search, then here is the DIY option: AUX input mod Chances are that the unit in discussion is an Eclipse unit. Personally I would advise against a single DIN though, but this is just based on looks. This is what a single DIN with pocket would look like (photo provided by Styles):