DJKOR

Nah, only a mod can, but for what it's worth, I wouldn't worry about it anymore. It's just good housekeeping to keep similar questions grouped for future searches. Anyways, here are two scenarios. Note how the possible effects say 'Vehicle theft and Engine cannot be restarted'. This is because the engine will remain running in both scenarios:

Probably should have brought this up in the immobiliser thread below to keep it clean. Anyways, if you go out of range while the engine is running, the engine will still continue to run and it will just keep chiming and showing the "KEY IS NOT DETECTED" message on the dash. If the engine is stopped though using the Start/Stop button, it can not be started up again until the key is brought back in range as the immobiliser becomes active when the engine is stopped and the Smart Key is taken out of range of the car.

Those are advanced systems. Most immobilisers prevent the car from starting altogether, or allow the engine to run for a few seconds before cutting the engine. It would just be too dangerous to allow the car to drive before shutting off the engine. What you are referring to is an anti-hijack system which is a completely different dedicated system. These systems disrupt the operation of the engine but allows it to run just enough so that the car will come to a stop in a more 'controlled' manner.

Expanding on what I have mentioned here: The immobiliser simply cuts the ignition and fuel injection whenever the your key is removed from the ignition tumbler. Inside your keys are a transponder chip. When a key that has not been added into the ECU is inserted, the car will not be able to be started. This is why when you get a new key cut, you need to firstly buy the right key, then have it added into the ECU. As per page 16 of the owners manual:

To keep everything grouped into my thread I will add the following. A big thanks to Michael (51DER) for taking these photos for me. Every day I drive my car, it just starts feeling more and more like a daily driver than something that is presentable. Seeing photos like this make me realise just how nice it looks: As well, I've never been good with waiting for parcels. I get so damn impatient. At least I know it is getting closer and closer. More information/photos once it gets here:

I have the Auspack unit.

That's not the first step. First step is to confirm what his headlights look like. I say this because the local Camry from around that year had headlights that will be incompatible with projectors. There is the possibility that his import may be the same. My headlights looked like the one below. The front surface is glass meaning that it's not like Perspex where you can carefully sand those ridges down yourself.

Despite my dissatisfaction for them refusing to fit my Varex saying that it wouldn't fit, I'm booked in with Pipewerx to give them one more chance at doing their job. The guys I spoke with this time were much friendlier than the last person I dealt with. If they say they can't do what I request... I will probably put the idea on hold. I'm not the type of person who can be bothered mucking around. It I had the tools... I'd do it myself.

Sorry. The first set of photos you posted looks like it's solid right after the merge. Anyways, I'm still going to stick with my desire to get the pipes formed in a similar shape to the stock ones. I had a look under my car again and noticed there is a bit of room to play with if they have the skill.

There are many ways you can get more power out of your car, but resetting your ECU is not one of them. If you want to get more power, you will have to start doing work to your engine. What is your budget?

What *I* would do, is unplug the o² sensor, and create an extension cable ie. buy a plug, socket and a length of 5 core (or whatever) cable. That's what I'm thinking of now. Any ideas where to find the connectors (as in in-store)?

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Good point. I'm trying to measure it all up (waiting for the car to cool first) because it does seem like it's going to be an issue if I plan to keep the 3rd cat there. It seems hard enough to keep the exhaust flex there as it is. You can see above that scootastaxisx6 seems to have had the flex removed. I really want the equal length setup because that damn O2 sensor. I won't settle for it on the same bank. If I can't come to a solution I'm satisfied with, I'm just going to drop the idea.

When you are driving around a parking lot looking for a space and think you see one. Then you get closer and a small car is in there. Even worse is when it's a motorcycle or even a small scooter.

Damn.... I just couldn't resist. I went in today to enquire and now I have booked my car to get the y-pipe re-done on Thursday. May end up being the same as what's done here due to space restrictions holding back the equal length idea. And to settle the score and see if it has gains, losses, or remains the same... a Test 'n' Tune is coming up at the end of the month.

Or have I already done so??? LOL.... I've been meaning to do it, but I got a bit lazy. I'll add it now underneath the head unit question. Edit: Has now been added...

I haven't actually gone and looked at the LEDs yet, so thought I better just compare the other two. But theory strongly agrees with what MT is saying :P LED LCD's are the way to go if you have the money. A good advantage of the LCD is that if you spend big, you can get really high resolutions. That said, this can be done with plasmas as well. But I'm sticking with my plasma living room TV. This is my own opinion. Each to their own. Pfft to the power and heat. It's like petrol for my car. Sure I could drive a smaller car with a more petrol efficient engine, but I don't mind the petrol costs with my current car :P On that CRT topic, it's still amazing how these hold up in terms of resolution. Our old Sony Wega 91cm HD CRT... despite weighing a ton, was by far the best TV we've had in my opinion.

First things first... what is the amp driving? Speakers or subwoofer? I would assume speakers right judging from previous posts? The ideal settings for an amplifier in relation to its gain and crossover frequencies can't simply be defined over the net. The type of speakers and the given installation will affect what settings you will use. Your highpass/lowpass filters are adjusted to the frequency response of your speakers. The frequency response can also vary depending on how they are installed. As for the gain, ideally an oscilloscope should be used to determine your gain settings, but if you don't have one, you can use your ears if you have good hearing. So if this is for speakers, this is all I will suggest in the meantime: 1) Turn all the way down (6V) and then set as you would with any gain. If you want a simple method, have a read here. 2) Leave on "FULL" 3) With the above setting on "FULL", only the top one labelled "LP/HP" should make a difference. This one should be set to the lowest frequency the speakers can play without issues. I would also turn the bottom one to "about the same frequency just to be sure though. 4) This should make no difference with number '2' above set to "FULL". I would still turn flick the switch to the right though and set the dial all the way to 50Hz just to be sure. 5 & 6) Leave off "0db" for now. Only turn on after fine turning things and testing.

I'm amazed at how it makes the alleyway look so clean. It's like it was set up just for the shoot, when it fact... well you know... it's an alleyway.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=light+room :P

That's a statement I would agree to. This car and BONDIE's ex-Aurion are high up in the standards.

Looking hot Lee. Lovin' it.

Surprisingly, as long as you use a light coat, it doesn't really run down anywhere. All you will get is it 'evaporating' after a month or so if the cabin heats up a bit. This solution is more of a temporary fix. Here in Queensland summer, it kept it quiet for about a month... then I couldn't be botheres anymore.

Didn't do anythign to my car because I am out of things to do to it... with the exception of cleaning it, but it's well too hot here to even think of that. Instead, I fitted an Ultra Racing rear sway bar to the TRD for Ash (SecaBoy). Also had a near mishap when I was trying to take off his rear wheel. His wheel nuts are the ones that require a hex socket, so he had an adaptor for that so I could use a standard wheel brace. Got the first wheel nut off fine, but then as I was taking off the second one, the socket snapped under the twisting force. Seeing half the socket stuck in the head of the wheel nut wasn't a good sight. I managed to get it out though. Phew.