DJKOR

I am just thinking it's something like turbulence or air rushing over the vacuum attachments or something like that. Everything is all tight, but I wouldn't suspect it to be to do with a loose intake component because you would imagine the airflow taking the path of least resistance which is straight from the filter to the throttle body. I dunno. Hopefully someone with more engine knowledge might have a known answer. Sure does once you start moving a little. If you stay parked for a bit, you will get some heat soak, but once the car starts moving, this cools down. I popped the bonnet after a drive and quickly felt around the filter area and it felt rather cool. The heatshield that comes with it does a decent job I reckon. Tomorrow I will get some piping though and try to direct even more air to there from behind the fog light. No they don't. But in the package, K&N provides two lengths of some good quality vacuum hose that are more than long enough to replace the old ones.

His problem ended up being the battery. The SRI was suspected because the battery issue conveniently started after he put the SRI on.

You're thinking of the wrong side mate. This y-pipe is where the two banks of the V6 merge together underneath the engine:

This is similar to the situation that I come across often as well as stated on the first page: Except... people here don't seem to care about their car and if you don't let them in, they will just keep on moving till they will probably hit you. I've had people come that close that you could measure the distance between their car and yours with a finger or two.

My next little rant.. just one of those things that somehow annoys me. ... When you are weaving through traffic and there is a person behind you doing the same. Then they steal an opening in the flow of traffic before you can and before you know it... they are several car lengths ahead of you and getting further and further away. That frustrates me.

A Birthday shoutout to our American member Adam (ASG14). Thanks for all the support from the other side of the equator.

Thanks mate. I think as well if any car needs this the most, it would be the TRD <points to you Ash and Dave>. As for this thread, I guess you can now add me to the list:

Okay guys, relax relax... especially you Evan; you should take a Valium (Drew will understand the joke behind that). After all, as Mick said, it is just an intake. Plus I'm not the first one to get it mate. It is available locally in the sense that you can order it in from a local store. This would be quite expensive though so it is cheaper to search on eBay and buy it yourself. This is what I did. So fitting it was a piece of cake, nothing out of the ordinary. Everything fit perfectly and was very well constructed. Instructions were detailed, but who needs them :P Then I took it for a test drive, and covered a good distance. People on the highway were probably wondering WTF I was doing constantly putting my foot down while next to a barrier. All I can say is the sound is orgasmic. Not like Northy's V8, but it's probably all I can expect with this car. I certainly had a huge smile on my face... much larger than that of a Mazda 3's. Only 'issue' I have found after all that driving (I'm not sure if it is good or bad), but if there is enough structure around me to reflect some sound from the engine bay back into my car, I can hear this whistling noise. It happens when you are held on a gear and your put your foot down slightly. For example, lets say I'm in 3rd (easier to hear it and replicate it in this gear), and the revs are at 2,500RPM. If I put my foot down a little so it's enough to bring the revs to 3,500RPM, I get a whistling sound similar to a turbo spool while the engine is increasing speed from 2,500 to 3,500RPM after which it then goes away. I'm just concerned that this is a problem with something. Anyways, a couple of photos. Before: After:

That sir is wicked.

So so so so so so so excited!!!!! I feel like a kid on Christmas day. Be back in a while:

It's more of the point that it's justifying cost over performance. I am quite satisfied with how my car is performing as it is, and until someone with another Aurion decides to challenge that and bump me back, then I will consider doing what it takes to keep myself satisfied. This is an open invitation by the way. Bring your Aurion to the 1/4 mile and let it loose. On the topic of spending, as you mentioned, it will cost a bit of coin to get the y-pipe sorted out properly and that is where you need to ask yourself, if you are spending such money to fix just that little bit... do you think you may as well go all out and get the full potential and do the extractors as well? I must say I'm a little bit on the sad side I couldn't get that done as easily as I would have wanted it to be. It isn't entirely power that I was looking for... just this smoother exhaust note people were talking about. As well, a change is a change and I like to make changes every now and again. ... However, I just got a knock at the door and my disappointment has gone away:

So no-one is left wondering what is happening here, I have decided to cancel my plans for doing this modification... in the meantime anyways. If I do want to bring it up again, I will be speaking with Craig at Extreme Engineering as per CHA54's recommendation. This is the way I'm looking at it. Lets say this modification is good for an extra 15HP at the wheels maximum. For the cost that is going to be involved with doing this (I am only going to do it as equal length for the simple fact that Toyota wouldn't have done so in the first place for no reason), I can not justify spending it for that marginal power gain. I have decided to take a more cost efficient process in the meantime and work on improving the car's power-to-weight ratio... starting with a goal to lose 20kg... of my own weight. Then finding ways to get weight out of my car.

Welcome mate. Hope you enjoy your Aurion as much as we all do. It sure does. Only when your parkers/headlights are on though. Main issue you need to look into is the VVT-i oil line. If you have the old hose, this is a priority. Apart from that, there are the dash rattles and knocking sound from the intermediate shaft. Have a look at these threads to get more of an idea: 2GR-FE VVT-i Oil Line Replacement Aurion intermediate shaft spline Aurion recall/ warranty fixes

They kind of did the same with the Aurion around the head unit only. I wonder why they stopped there.

Your complete alarm controls are done through the main ECU. Rewiring it so that your panic button will operate your Start/Stop button would firstly disable your alarm completely (and also mean if your key is in range and someone sets your alarm off... the car will start), and will also play havoc with your car because the output for the alarm goes on and off constantly to flash the lights and beep the horn. This would mean if you were to wire it up, pressing the panic button will be like pressing your Start/Stop button continuously in 1 second intervals. Definitely not good. This is why they use the boot release. When you press that button, the output is only on for 1-2 seconds which means that the switch will only be triggered once. I get the feeling that you might be thinking of the wrong type of range here. Are you trying to say you are in range as in you are far but close enough that the remote buttons work? Because this remote start trick will only work when you are in the key detection zone. The front and rear room oscillators that you can see in the attached diagram below form the actuation area of the push button start function and it's primary range is within the cabin of the car. Any range further than that can be very iffy, especially with the doors closed. This is why on the YouTube video, they are operating it with the door open: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! It's only when you are within this range that the Start/Stop button will work. If you are outside of this area, the button won't work meaning that you can not remote start your car. This is why I said in my first reply: If you want to test this. Get someone to stand 2 metres away from your car holding the key then you sit inside your car with the doors closed and the windows up, then try seeing if you can start your car. If you manage to succeed, get the other person to step further back until you can't operate the button, or if you don't succeed, then get them to slowly move closer. This will then tell you the maximum distance you can be from the car for it to work. You will most likely find that the distance will be that small that it would be just as easy to open your car door and press the button yourself.

Sweet victory! I found the damn post. Stupid me didn't think of searching "door trim'. Anyways: external door trims

Unless you are lucky enough to find one pop up on eBay (may or may not happen), you are going to have to purchase it directly from Toyota. Will probably cost a lot too because the entire trim that is underneath the number plate has to be changed for it as it's not just a stick on strip. Removing the door strips on the side is just like the debadging method where you heat with a hair dryer and use fishing wire and a goo remover to clean up the adhesive. There are some threads from the Corolla guys who have done this. Such threads like this one: Side Strips However, with that said, I wouldn't go rushing into it yet. Now, I'm still searching for the post (it's harder to find than I thought), but I remember someone mentioning (450hp/tonne I suspect because he had all these bits for sale) there were mounting holes on the door to allow positioning of the side door strips. I can't be 100% on that, but I'm pretty sure that was the response. I will get back to you on that one. Edit: Post found. Refer to my next post.

Hehehe. I use mine as the same thing. I've considered many times to cut a hole in either side and put one of those desk cable organisers in so that you can open a hole up on demand and get more air flow through there for optimum cooling abilities:

Yeah, I made sure of that. I was more concerned about dirt/bugs getting in there. Thanks for the heads up though. I just took it off for the photos so everything could be seen and made obvious.

Someone else should probably give some suggestions in order, but I'm sure this has already been covered. Things like a better exhaust, an intake, maybe header etc would be a better starting point. Some links can be found here: PREVIOUSLY COVERED TOPICS

Save the reaction because I know what it's going to be........ AUD$365 postage included.

How much is your budget? I hope you aren't referring to one of those cheap a** 'power chips' that do absolutely nothing. You can't simply get a chip for your car if you want to get more power out of it. You will have to look into getting a a piggyback or complete ECU replacement like a PowerFC.

Your car already comes fitted with the Toshiba HIR1 65W bulbs. Changing the bulbs to a +80% may not give you a brighter output because of the high efficiency of the HIR bulbs. Therefore, to go brighter, you need either a higher wattage bulb or HID's... both of which are illegal. Yep, putting in brighter highbeams is against the Australian Design Rules and is potentially a defect as it's higher wattage than the provided stock bulb.

Usual? I've only made one reply to you based on an assumption, and that was more of an observation based question with a joke at the end: That was in no way calling you an extremist. It was stating how you are focussed on a subject matter more than others. Just like how people here joke about the knowledge I have of my car, when in fact I am no expert... I just have nothing better to do: I don't feel like people are calling me an extremist when I hear things like this. I just see it as their way of stating their observations based on things I have said. That was in no way meant to be going against your comment. I was just stating my reasons to give a suggestion which would appear to me more as advise than a recommendation. There is always always more than one opinion and these have the right to be stated in any forum. You have made yours and I have made mine. I in fact agree with your statement and I would imagine others following the suggestions given here. I myself stated in the first post that: Which would appear that I am saying that the dim appearance of his light is all in his head, which is what I personally would have said and left it at that, because I do think the HIR1 bulb is quite bright, but instead I have provided advice that is illegal and not ideal for general road use because I wanted to provide the most efficient answer to solve his problem with minimal fuss. I was feeding words that he would want to hear. Just because I am replying to a post of yours, this doesn't mean that I am singling you out. I have made numerous upon numerous replies to other posts stating my opinion which would be a complete opposite to the person whom I was replying to. Others have done the exact same to me. It's part of discussion. My intentions were not to state the opposite of your statement, but to reinforce reasons for why people tend to follow advice given by others on the forums. I am not berating your responses. I never said that I disagree with your opinions. In that reply I made, I was simply giving my opinion as to why you have observed such behaviour on the forums.

I already know how it sounds :P. That was by accident. Was flooring it onto the highway when my upper hose from before came loose directly at the throttle body. Sounded really wicked... and surprisingly still ran for the next kilometre until I could pull over. I was constantly switching back and forward in my mind. Finally caved in and decided to go all out for the K&N because it is a professionally made one with heatshield. Now I just have to wait for slow 'ol Australia Post to get it to my door. Hitting redline twice as much? I don't think that's physically possible with me.