DJKOR

Sigh... May I direct you to an answer at the very top of page 2... of this same thread:

Damn that Commercial Television Australia. They need to get with the times.

This is one thing K&N states you should not do. Just letting you know.

Driving from Melbourne to Brisbane abiding by the speed limits (with the occasional higher speed overtaking manoeuvre), the Aurion managed 8.2L/100km. Could have been better if I went just a little under the limit I reckon, but I wasn't up for testing that. So it seems the Kluger will be about 2L/100km more than the Aurion. But as you said, you get more room... so I guess it's up to you to consider what trade-off you want.

The hose is the part with the yellow mark on it. If you enlarge the picture that Lewie posted, you will see the yellow line is on the black rubber hose. This is the part that you should be looking at. If you still can't picture it... have a look at the very first post of this thread.

All the information you need is right on the front page of this forum. One thread to look at is: 2GR-FE VVT-i Oil Line Replacement

I had (and still have) the remake of Stevie Nicks - Stand Back stuck in my head: Linus Love feat. Sam Obernik - Stand Back Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Despite what others think (that you need to completely submerge the filter to suck up water) there is always the chance that you can be unlucky enough to suck in water from a rather large puddle. When driving down a road in heavy rain if visibility is bad, accidentally running through a a large puddle of water that manages to splash enough water to your intake to soak it can lead to issues. Of course the chances of these aren't really high... especially if you have a decent splash guard, but the possibility is still there. It doesn't take much water to blow your engine. If you sucked water into your engine... you'd definitely know about it.

Yeah mate, a bit out of luck on that one. They could change the hose if they wanted to, but from what David (SupaTouring) and I remember, the rubber hose part is actually shorter so they would have to cut the replacement hose. That's if they were to do it. I remember the meet after I fitted my new oil line. I was talking to David (after he mentioned that he picked up a metal pipe as well) and we were discussing the DIY. He then popped his bonnet and we were in the process of looking how to do it then I noticed the entire line was going in a different direction.

I wouldn't kid yourself thinking there would be any performance gains from removing that. The carbon filter in the airbox is actually quite free-flowing and does not pose a restriction to the normal operation of the engine. When I changed the filter on Eugene's Kluger (TOOGUD), this was one thing I checked and from what I can remember, there was no carbon filter. My memory is shoddy though and it could have been there. The Aurion's have one, and it's to do with passing for Euro IV emissions compliance. Anyways, regardless of whether it is there or not, I wouldn't bother removing it. If you do choose to remove it, just so you know, it won't cause any engine damage.

I must say, that is a really clever creation.

1. Supercharged TRD 2. chicaboo :( 3. DJKOR :( 4. 5. Oh man, this is not news that I want to hear.

Yes. As said, MAKE SURE you disconnect your battery and wait at least 90 seconds before disconnecting the airbag connector (yellow one) under your seat. Removing the seat is as simple as moving it forwards and undoing the two bolts at the rear and then moving it forward and removing the two bolts at the front. This is basically the same on all cars. Pretty basic to figure out. Then while you are at the front (after undoing the front two bolts) tilt the seat back (as in so you can see underneath it), and then disconnect the airbag connector (after at least 90 seconds of disconnecting the battery). Also, I'd lay an old towel or large rag over the door sills. If you aren't careful in removing your seat you will end up scratching your paint on the door sill. This is something I would recommend with the electric seats especially because they aren't that light.

I used to think the tail lights looked crap in photos, but when I actually saw one in person, I actually quite liked them. You have to see them in person to truly see what they look like. I actually think it fits perfect with the white. Saw a white police facelift Aurion Sportivo and it looked great. Personally I think the clear tail lights work with the lighter colours like Silver and Reef. I think it would look bad on the darker colours.

^ Nice one there Dave. If that actually is true, that was quality. I guess to keep with the thread, I'll have to make a contribution: ---------- A teacher at a polytechnic college reminded her pupils of tomorrow's final exam. 'Now listen to me, I won't tolerate any excuses for you not being here tomorrow. I might consider a nuclear attack or a serious personal injury, illness, or a death in your immediate family, but that's it, no other excuses whatsoever!' A smart-****d guy at the back of the room raised his hand and asked, 'What would happen if I came in tomorrow suffering from complete and utter sexual exhaustion?' The entire class was reduced to laughter and sniggering. When silence was restored, the teacher smiled knowingly at the student, shook her head and sweetly said, 'Well, I suppose you'd have to write with your other hand'.

Sure does. Went up one star because Toyota opted to do the pole test and they put in a passenger seat belt reminder. This brought the score up from 30.03/37 to 33.03/37. http://www.ancap.com.au/results/search/?se...keywords=aurion Pre-facelift result Facelift result You can't simply trade your old lights (unused or not) into Toyota. They will probably just laugh at you. You would only be able to sell them to someone else if you wanted to get money off it. Sure you can get the pre-facelift, but if you really want the tail lights, would you be willing to spend $1500+ just to buy them? Just the corner light alone costs $600. Sure you can buy these from Toyota, but they aren't particularly cheap. Alternatively if you want to get them cheaper, you better think quick because a set of 5 is currently on eBay with the bid at $600.

It's up to you really to make this decision. If you are looking for a good resale value, the facelift model would be the one to go for. I wouldn't particularly say that the extra $4,500 is worth it for what you get with it, but personally, when it comes to the AT-X, the facelift model does look sharper. You also get a higher safety rating as well which is a definite positive I would say. As I said though, it is ultimately your choice. I would be leaning more towards the facelift model in my own opinion. See if you can try and get them to knock the price down for you a little... or at least throw in some extras. Just to note, the pre-facelift model also has LED tail lights. Just a different design.

Just so you know, and to re-direct other people who come across this thread, there is currently another thread established with a fair few responses there already. Post your answers here: Your first car

Reinforced I would hope. Don't want another repeat event :P

Usually yearly. But if you don't want to pay for the upgrade, finding the maps is the fun part. Just so you know, that last working update of iGO8 with maps that I posted up took me a good 5 hours or so to find, download and test because some downloaded ones didn't work etc.

Thank you Secret Santa for the microfibre cleaning cloths (you can never have enough microfibre), and the extremely useful alloy wheel brush. After cleaning my Kappa's yesterday for the meet, this is going to make that process 100x easier.

I'm on there with the user name "DJKOR" but I fail at console so I barely use the damn thing anymore.

Nup. Look no further: Lighter fuse

You're welcome. Firstly open the glove box and take out the three screws that are along the top edge. Then close the glove box and go underneath and remove the cover underneath the glove box. This is not necessary, but it helps to remove it. Then remove the passenger footwell kick panel next to the door. You will find one bolt under there that attaches to the glove box and another on the opposite side. Remove these with a 10mm socket/spanner and your glove box will be free to remove. Best way I find to remove it is to open the glove box again and kinda just pull it gently and it should pop off. Better still, just follow step 23 onwards on page 23 of this service manual: Instrument_Panel.pdf

Really good dinner and cruise. Thanks Brennden for organising. Food was great as always, and the cruise was very tame with some spirited sections and very enjoyable. Was good to catch up with everyone in such a large group.