DJKOR

Firstly, if you need to run any wires through the firewall, the best place is the grommet located next to the ECU on the passenger side. This will end up behind the glove box. Secondly, you can use either the loom that they have supplied and wire them up completley separately, or you can utilise the pre-existing harness that comes with the Aurion. If you choose this method, you will need to firstly obtain a micro relay (details in this post), and then you will need to connect a switch to the wiring harness going to the indicator stork. To do that though, you most likely will need to remove your steering wheel (I prefer to connect direct to the connector, and that's the only way to access it). That's what I had to do with Ingres. I didn't take note of the wire colours but I can remember the location. If you get a photo of the connector and wires connecting to the stork, I can tell you what to connect a switch to. When wired to the stock harness and when the fog light switch is on, the fog lights come on whenever the parker lights are on.

I think the $400 mark will get you the alarm without the GSM paging module. I would expect to pay the same amount for the paging module itself. Just the factory alarm (just monitors door entry) and chipped key immobiliser. Nothing else.

I guess this shows who actually reads the posts. The OP mentioned twice that he is in Adelaide.

I never really payed attention to the parkers on the Gen 6 Camry. Are they located on the very outside of the headlight housing? If so, I think changing them is similar to the Aurion then and you'll need to go in through the wheel arch. Not friendly for larger hands: parker lights

You'd be surprised to see what people pay for at live auctions for things they can get way cheaper outside of there. People go crazy in an auction scenario.

Can't really help out with brands and what not. I haven't really had to deal with them before. I hear good things about Viper/Hornet/Mongoose car alarms however. Probability wise, it all really depends on where you are and how often your car is left out in the open. A risk is a risk really when it come to that.

Any decent immobiliser really is all you would need. An aftermarket car alarm may even come with one built in so you won't need to worry. Just remember though, the alarm may be useful when you are at home, but when you leave you car out in a car park, anything can happen. They can use your keys to unlock the door, alarm goes off, they pop the bonnet and then kill the alarm. You car is then theirs to do what they want. Trust me, in a car park not many people care when a car alarm goes off. On my old Camry, my alarm was playing up. I popped the bonnet and disabled the siren. People were watching, but didn't care.

Yeah, it is a tough decision you have there. I would cancel your Blockbuster account ASAP to be on the safe side. They shouldn't disclose your personal information to anyone but yourself (which you usually verify by pin number or photo ID) so you should be relatively safe there. An other option you can try is to install an aftermarket immobiliser. Wether it be a keyed switch or a hidden fuel pump cut, either should prevent your car from being stolen. Of course it won't stop anyone from taking stuff out of your car. The choice is up to you really if you want to toss up the odds. Do you really think they can find your car?

It sure looks like him eh. The shoes don't look very Mick-like though.

Well new in the sense that he had been a member for a year only making one post in that first year (which was a FS post), then when he returned... his second post was another FS post. I would still consider that a new member in terms of his contributions.

Funny that.... considering he was a new member and tried to sell stuff despite following the Buy and Sell Rules. Good luck though. About the only people I think that can help are the moderators. But they could only really get his email address.

I'll be out this week. Won't be in Brisbane for the next couple/few weeks so this will be my last for a little bit. Hopefully we can get more Aurion's compared to last week.

35% is the darkest legal, so therefore a tint darker than this will be illegal. That said, depending on the car etc, a 30% may not look much different to a 35% tint. Most of the time you can manage to get away with it (some even get away with a 20% tint), but bear in mind you can be defected for it. When that happens, there's no point in complaining. If you choose to go darker than 35%, you accept the risks.

Same here... but then again, I drive with my windows down 95% of the time.

On your tire placard on the drivers door area, what is the recommended tire size? Now what is the size of the 17 inch tires you have on it now? They can then be entered into this calculator: 1010 Tires - Tire Size Calculator

Sorry. That was my bad. I re-read your post and realised the mistake I made. I guess my mind wasn't at its clearest on a Sunday night. That said, you mentioned you have a CVX. If I'm correct, that would be a Gen 1 Kluger. Maybe that explains why you don't have the chime whereas the OP (and the others that responded with related comments) have a Gen 2 Kluger.

It's not as easy as connecting a laptop directly to it. You need an OBDII interface firstly... and that's even if it will work. Something like this for example: OBD to USB

^ That's looking more like it. You Celica already looks faster with that snail attached to it.

Well I guess for the newer Toyota's they adopted the OBDII standard because the Aurion certainly is compatible with a ScanGauge and other OBDII interfaces. I guess 2006 was when they pulled their finger out.

Wicked combination. Should look much better. Personalised plates always make that little bit more of a difference.

I'm not sure whether yours would be OBDII compliant. All I know is that in the US, it was required that all cars built after January 1, 1996 be OBDII compliant. In Australia, it was only made mandatory in January 2005. The easiest way to tell is to look around your dash etc for a plug that looks like this: OBD is On-Board Diagnostics. The OBD port on a car allows you to connect an external computer/programmer, and read certain engine parameters. With the right tools, you can even re-program other parameters. You know how you can get a check engine light? Well when you get this, an error code is usually logged, and wit the use of an OBD scanner, you can read the error code and get an ideo of what is playing up.

This shall be interesting.

That is making the assumption that he had increased wheel size WITHOUT changing the tire size appropriately. If he made sure to adjust the tire size, his variation in his speedo should only be about 1-3km/h. To the OP: Did you pay attention to the speedo before the wheel change? Was it still off by 4-6km/h? If so, it's nothing much to worry about, so long as it reads under the actual speed. Your GPS will give you a closer to accurate to speed so you can see how much your speedo is off by. Most cars can be up to 10% out and then to be on the positive side, that is, showing you a speed faster than what you are actually going.

The little hole on the front of the head unit next to the right knob. A paperclip does the trick. Does not guarantee a fix though. Will also result in lost clock and radio settings.

Better brake pads can have a little more bite which would be noticeable and taken as improved response. Decreasing braking distance is a little of an interesting one. The way I see it, the amount of braking force you have is limited by the grip your tires have against the ground. Even with basic pads, you can still press the brake hard enough to lock the front wheels and activate ABS. So essentially you aren't really increasing maximum braking force. However, because better pads can bite sooner and also withstand more heat, this can then help reduce braking distance. There are quite a few factors that come into play there depending on the pads you have and the rest of the car itself. As for brands, there have been good words as Bendix Ultimates as a decent everyday pad with a little more bite. There is a size available for your Camry, but these pads are now discontinued. There have been reports though that some places still have remaining stock of them though. Before I head to the track in September, I'm going to get a set of QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) brake pads for my Aurion. I have heard good reviews of these pads, but I guess I will see how they go. Definitely something worth looking into. I will be getting the HP-X pads as these are a good compromise between performance and road use. They do have an even better pad, the A1RM, but these are for those that are really into track use since they are known to wear at your rotors a fair bit.