DJKOR

Definitely before you turn off. This spot here:

I'd definitely be in for this one. Doesn't hurt to get some additional training.

I'd be up for it. I NEED to crack into the high 13's.

It was on Milton Road in the same ol' spot as always (at the bottom of the hill next to the park). I was on my brakes well before and managed to get as low as 50.

You need to turn the car off then back on again. It will always turn back on every time you do that.

Loved the spark show Jules. Maybe check your front right tire for any unusual wear. As well, someone was speeding in front of me on my way home and I saw a speed camera flash (as in it was a bit bright). The thing is, I swear that the car in front was past the zone that the flash covered, hence this means that I would be the one it got the photo of. But I wasn't speeding. This doesn't look too great.

I did some driving, still getting used to the sound the rotors make. Took the front wheels off and inspected the rotors to make sure everything is still going fine. Gave it a good wash inside and out. Played around with my sub settings, then parked it in the garage waiting for dinner and meet tonight. I swear you've been mentioning it needs a service soon for quite a while. Ever since you first mentioned it to me, I managed to get my 60,000km service, and in another 5,000km, I will be due for my 75,000km service.

Firstly, the information for obtaining the mesh grills are the very first question in the FAQ. You should skim through that as well in case there is something else there you are after. Secondly, Stylusion purchased his grill in a group buy that saved a little bit of money.

Your best bet would be to go into your local Toyota spare parts department and say that you are after a panel for the centre console. They can bring up the diagrams for your car and then you can ask if you can point out the particular part. That's what I usually do when I don't have the correct name for the part.

If you manage to get them to match that $93.63 including GST... good work. That $93.63 amount is excluding GST if they match it while including GST, you'll have saved a further $10.

The ABS light coming on while driving and not braking under extreme conditions is usually an indication that there is something not operating correctly with your ABS system. On most cases, you are best to take it to your Toyota service department since it's not particularly a user serviceable part unless you have the right tools.

The Aurion really is a good car to consider. It's main issues are mainly just to do with the plastics on the inside of the car. Rattles and creaks kind of get in the way of some. I just zone out. In terms of any serious issues, I've been listening in on the American Toyota Nation forums and have heard a lot about a potential issue with the 2GR-FE that wasn't resolved until some time in 2008 I think. ATTN: All 2GR-FE V6 OWNERS!!! BEWARE!!! It's to do with the VVT-i oil line. One part of it is a rubber hose with a clamp at the end that is said to cause a pinhole in the hose from vibration which can then result in a pretty nasty leak. I myself haven't heard of any cases here, but the clocks are ticking I guess. It's said to happen between 45k to 65k miles (72k to 104k kms). The end result looks like this: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!If you car is still under warranty though, it will be covered. I'm pretty much right on 70,000km right now, so I'm going to be keeping an eye out. I would probably buy the part for myself and fit it, but the procedure seems to be a bit tight. I'm not too sure how I'd cram my hand in there. That may be for the 05 Avalon, but if you look at the 2GR-FE in the 07 Aurion, you will find the same rubber hose. If the problem has been resolved, it would be replaced will an all metal part.

I would choose an oiled filter over an un-oiled foam filter any day. For some reason, I really don't like the idea of a foam filter that has no oil on it. It just doesn't seem as effective the way I see it. That said though, I'm not a fan of oiled filters either (so it's the lesser of two evils). My hate for oiled filters is that in the past I've had cases where there would be residue left behind on the walls of the intake piping. I just didn't like having to clean all that up.

Don't worry. It's a Toyota. It'll be fine.

I wish mine had one too. The only way to turn traction control off on the Aurion is to follow this sequence (in under about 30 seconds): 1. Make sure the car is in Park and the parking brake is disengaged before you start the car. 2. Start the engine. 3. Engage the parking brake. 4. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release. 5. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release. 6. Disengage the parking brake. 7. Fully depress and hold down the brake pedal. 8. Engage the parking brake, then disengage it (while holding down the brake pedal). 9. Engage the parking brake, then disengage it (while holding down the brake pedal). 10. Release the brake pedal. 11. Engage the parking brake. 12. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release. 13. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release. I've done this quite a few times already, I think I have it in my head now.

Nup. No security coding on the head unit in the Aurion. Only a flashing red light next to the clock as a 'deterrent'. I'm guessing people kept forgetting the codes or something and Toyota just decided to ditch the idea.

Thanks Dave. I appreciate that.

LOL. That is a fail alright.

Time for my stupid question. So yesterday I changed my rotors to the slotted type. Now I can understand that these rotors may possibly make 'some' noise when braking, but how about when you're foot is off the brakes? When driving down the highway next to a concrete barrier and my windows are down, I can hear this sound which is kind of hard to explain. It's kind of like the sound you get when blowing into the blades of a desk fan, just quieter. Would the rotors be the most likely cause for this? I would have though that with my foot off the brakes, the pads would not be touching enough to create noise like that. Or could this more likely be caused by the fact that I removed that debris shield that was covering the back of the rotor, and now it sounds different with the air flow around it?

Yes I have had no luck, and yes I'm running WinCE 4.2, but it doesn't mean it's impossible. All you would need to do is extract the firmware from the unit and modify from there. Only problem is that I can't be bothered pulling my unit apart... plus I don't have a PC with a serial port.

One thing I forgot to mention about the install of these lights is the relay. So yes, the wiring was already there for the fog lights. Toyota were even nice enough to include a micro blade fuse for it as well. But just like AU8ION mentioned earlier, you will need to purchase a relay if you would like to make use of the factory wiring. Without a doubt, Toyota probably would charge the $97 that he has mentioned it cost. I haven't called Toyota to enquire if it could be obtained for cheaper, but I highly doubt you will be able to find one from them for under $40. The good news is that the particular relay is just a basic 'micro relay'. The one that Toyota uses is Denso, but you can find others manufactured by Bosch, Narva, etc. I found a Narva one at Autobarn for under $15. You can even get some Bosch ones for under AUD$6 each if you can manage to get rid of the other 9: eBay: Bosch Micro Relay

Not saying I don't like the Auspack unit, but it has a pretty crappy interface. Don't get me wrong, it does what I need it to do, but the interface just sucks. It can play MP3's and most AVI's from the USB slot without a problem. Browsing them can be a pain in the rear end though. Just imagine browsing though your PC with just the four directional buttons on your keyboard. It really is that bad. The remote makes it just slightly easier. On top of that, if you press the buttons too quick, you are bound to lock the unit up. Though in answering your question, it does handle multiple folders fine. Add to the fact that the USB will take a while to load if you have lots of files and that when you turn the unit off, it will return to the first file in the USB drive and not resume from where you left off. These reasons, and the slow load time for the DVD/CD is what led me to start working on using an external MP3 player plugged into the AUX port. I'm going to use my old PDA as the MP3 player. As for the microphone pickup, it does the job if you have your windows closed and fan speed set to medium or lower, but depending on the person on the other end of the line, they may have difficultly hearing you. It's alright and does work reasonably though.

Depends on what you are measuring. If you are after what figures you put down on the road, then the lesser of two evils would be the wheel dyno. The hub dyno, like a Dynapack dyno or the likes, do not have the mass/inertia of the wheels to use in the measurement. They may use some figure to compensate for that, but realistically it is not as accurate as a direct measurement. A wheel dyno on the other hand will measure the power directly as it is put down at the wheels. However if you are just monitoring differences or changes to your car, then either dyno will do. Preferably the wheel dyno would be better in my opinion since when running on it, you car pretty much will behave like it will when on the road.

Create an ImageShack or PhotoBucket account (or one of the many options out there). Then you can keep posting photos.

You did say: As per my above post, I did say it was possible for things to be stolen out of an Aurion without setting the alarm off. Thieves can be pretty smart you know and are most likely aware of how most factory alarms work. The alarm will always turn on with locking of the car via the key or remote. So the only other way would be if she didn't lock her car.