DJKOR

So what time did you want to meet? Remembering it's about 35 minutes to Willowbank from Indro and traffic is going to be crap. What time do you finish work? Did you want to just meet there instead. Up to you. I will be finished by like 2pm tomorrow so I have time to spare.

Most cases you will just end up with more thing rattling in your car under normal conditions. Plus things may get a little out of shape and seals may not do what they are supposed to do anymore.

Or you can go this style: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

Does he have a sub? Cause if not, you don't know boot vibrations in the Aurion till you put one in. As for reducing the buzzing and whatnot, Dynamat or equivalent is pretty useful at reducing that. It's pretty pricey though. I was going to do that for mine, but then I realised the handling potential for my Aurion and decided against the extra weight. At least it's not as bad as this (skip to 0:50): Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

So with this $10k budget, will that need to include engine work that has to be done? Cause if that were the case, you're limiting your choices just a little. I'd get an old school Supra, LOL.

Or those ones that your following and they are going slow (could be left or right lane), then when you go to the other lane to overtake them, they speed up.

When it comes to replacing the dash lights, you have a couple of options really. Firstly you can simply get a direct LED replacement depending on the type of bulb it uses. LED replacements come in all shapes and sizes and the common ones used are T10, T5, and the B8 style. These make it easy to replace the dash lights. My old Camry used 4 T10 bulbs to provide the bulk of the speedo illumination and I changed each bulb over for a blue 1W style T10 replacement and the end result looked sweet. The T10 design is also used around the car in places like the parkers and number plate lights and these bulb replacements make it easy to change over. As for changing the dome light, the best LED illumination are the LED arrays that have a bulb adapter to fit. Ones similar to this are really useful. I have one of these in my car and they are pretty bright. You can get insanely bright ones off eBay as well. As for your boot lights, an LED strip will provide you with some good lighting versus a single bulb replacement. This one here is the one I use, and you can also get it in blue, and maybe even cheaper off eBay. Alternatively, you can go for the DIY option, but bearing in mind you will need to get your hands on a bulk pack of LED's to make it worth doing yourself. I would have done mine myself, but it was more of the fact that I could save time with pre-made solutions. Plus they are easy to attach and position. If you do go for DIY, you basic formula for calculating resistor values for LED's is: R = (Vs - Vl) / I , where: R - is your resistor value in ohms Vs - is your supply voltage (best to calculate using 14v in the car) Vl - is the LED voltage (usually 2v but 4v for blue and white LED's) I - is the LED forward current in amps (eg. 20mA or 0.02A) this vaires depending on the LED

Those mirrors are great aren't they.

one will be missing in action tho You're gonna have to take yours to the track as well Rowan. Gotta have a bit of friendly competition to put my figures up with.

Welcome to the forums. As for lowering your Aurion, Pedders would do the job just fine, and some others here have used them as well without any issues. The only thing with the Pedders springs is that it does an 'even' drop in which the rear of the car sits higher than the front (much like it does normally). You do ave another choice of springs however, and that is King Springs. If you were to use King springs however, you will be able to get the rear to sit lower and make the car itself more even (so that the front and rear are close to the same height). To see the difference between the two, have a look at the photo below. 51DER (White AT-X) has Pedders and ELEGNT (Blue Sportivo) has King springs. As for the shocks, it would be recommended that you change them to something that is suitable for lowering springs, and as far as it goes, KYB are the only manufacturer that has suitable shocks. Otherwise, you can just do what others have done and leave your stock shocks as they are and worry about them when they blow. Regardless of the lowering springs, a strut brace and rear sway bar are highly recommended. These two will probably give a more noticeable handling difference than just the springs alone, but when combined, would be a good match.

I remember watching that a while ago on a random YouTubing night. Sounds like it's gonna take off or something. But this has got be be even hotter: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!

What's the difference between the layouts? Say I go to a mi-week track day, what one do I pick to compare with results here?

Yeah, that really annoys me as well. Speaking of which, I REALLY hate the ones that squeeze all the way to the end of a merging lane then push across expecting to be let it. They really push as well, so much so that if you don't hit your brakes, they'll just merge into you.

I was buying on a limited budget. This helmet will only serve it's life at the drags or QR. Unfortunately the colour is gonna have to do.

Depends on how hard he kicked it. These days, you will find that LCD's have their driver circuitry right behind the LCD parallel with it. So chances are, not only the LCD assembly is stuffed, but also it's driver circuitry. The other components of the system may be okay, but it all depends on the kick.

Okay guys, I've got myself a new helmet (may not be the best, but oh wells) and I am definitely in for this Wednesday. Plus now that I've got my helmet, all I need is some new front rotors and pads and then I'm DEFINITELY in for QR.

Highly doubt it will affect warranty unless they can prove that removing it was responsible for damaging the engine. If you remove the first resonator, there is hardly anything it ca ndo to damage the engine, and I doubt they can blame anything on that. But when it comes to taking your money, they will think of something. It's not a solid yes or no answer since it's hard to predict what they will say should anything happen. I would be leaning more towards no though. No point putting it back either when getting a service. They didn't even say anything when I took mine in.

How convenient. Moss St is like one minute away from my office here. My head down in my lunch break. Are the open face helmets that are AS approved still okay for use? That would be exellent.

Sounds good to me. As well, I'm thinking of buying a helmet for myself. Any recommendations? No need to go over the top I reckon.

remember our dyno figures, ditto for jelousy, we both have bragging rights now dont get greedy LOL ur a very competitive ba$tard do u know that haha I can't help it. It is in my nature. Even though the difference is only very marginal, having a '3' in front of the decimal doesn't look as good as having a '2'. The Test and Tune should give me some opportunity to work on my launch. I just thought, if you were able to stall it up on the Michelins, I wonder if I could stall it up higher on the Adrenalin's.... That's providing that stalling it up actually does help. I guess I will fit more runs in to try it out. Mick: If you are still up for it on the night, we can meet before hand.

I can't take this anymore Anyone up for a Test and Tune this Wednesday. I sure as hell am going to go to set this straight and just wondering if anyone wanted to accompany me. Jealously is a B*****

I think Rowan's on the dyno wasn't an accurate figure so best not to consider it (199.7HP). As for the 1/4 mile figures, more information can be found over here: Took my Aurion to The drags

Since I have my own thread for my Aurion I think I will update it once again. Nothing new done to it yet since the strut brace and the rear sway bar, but I have been giving it a good drive in that time though. Firstly, last week there was a dyno day happening so I brought the Aurion along to get a figure and the highest figure was 209.9HP at the wheels. A video of it's dyno runs (I didn't think of pointing the camera at the figure for the first run): Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load! Then on Friday (08/05/09) it had reached the 60,000km mark (just settled in ), so it was time for it's major service. Straight after that (seriously less than an hour of it being completed) I was at a meet with some great guys over on Boost and went for a bit of a spirited cruise. To their surprise, I was managing to keep up with the guys at the front (MY08 WRX and GTIR) in all the twisty turns of the mountain run. The Aurion managed to earn itself some great praise which is a good thing since these cars don't get the credit they deserve. Then the following night, Rowan and I headed to the drags to obtain some newer 1/4 mile figures for our Aurion's. This was my first time at the drags and it was a little daunting for my first run, but after that it was so fun. Rowan may have beat me, but I'll let him get away with it this time. For me though my best run was: 14.397 @ 98.06 mph And the timeslip to show it: After all that, I have realised just how soon I need to upgrade my brakes. The stock brakes on this car are shocking and as soon as I get some money, I am going to get myself a pair of slotted rotors for the front and some new pads. This is by far the most important modification that needs to happen ASAP. As well, I will work on improving the airflow to the discs at the front to help keep things in order.

I have heard many people say that the Caldina is quite good value considering the car it is. Side note.... if I was to say best car under 20k, I would say mine :P

Now you know why my fuel consumption is so high. I have always been driving like that ever since i removed all the noise reducing intake restrictions. The engine sounds sweet in it's power band doesn't it. I would hate to think what would happen to it if I added an SRI.