DJKOR

If this is in reference to the Auspack unit, why use 6 CD's when you can use just 1 DVD? So in a way, I guess you can say that you can use all 6 CD's with that head unit... just not in the physical sense.

Certainly some quality photos there. They are all great. I really like the ones taking while on the criuse, especially the shots of Dave's TRD. Not that I'm being biased or anything because it's an Aurion, but they are really good photos.

hi, i have not seen someone wiring the power cable that way..(others are just normal wiring) It seems to be more troublesome.. try from battery, keep going along the passenger side, locate at black rubber look thingy at the wall, that leads into the car, cut a little opening(later seal back again), stick the cable into there, you will somehow know where it will come out from(inside the car). (this is what normally people do, i think) Hi Dannywss, powering the head unit direct to battery is troublesome for some but I did it so I force myself to remember to turn off the head unit and hide the detachable face and to isolate it from the rest of the car's electronics. The Entry point and exit point are there to indicate diffcult wiring area where I had to put the wire into the chassis and come out somewhere inside the car (sorry if i confused you about the "exit point"), yes I normally have the cable along the passager side thats the easy part. I normally have audio and power cables are on opposite sides so I dont get interference, I hated the engine sound in the speaker, very ignoring. I know you know all that I have said above but I'm not sure which part you think is troublesome so I thought I explain my diagram a bit more. Thanks for the suggestion, I was hoping I wouldn't have to cut anything but looks like I have to now. Cheers, Just from reading that, I hope you didn't connect both your head units ignition (standard red) and constant power (standard yellow) directly to the battery; since even though you are turning the head unit off with its power button, it still will draw a bit of power (more than when the power is cut to the ignition wire). Otherwise, why do you need to remind yourself to turn it off if it is already going to do so when you turn the ignition off? As for where to run the cables, I agree with dannywss. There is a grommet on the passenger side next to the ECU in the engine bay and located behind the distribution panel behind the glove box. You just poke the cable through there and that way you can run it cleanly from front to back. I had difficulty putting it through there at first and actually considered going through the side then into the door area, but after getting the assistance of my Dad (always helps to have two people when cabling through the firewall), I was eventually able to push the cable through the grommet. Even though the cables aren't going to be seen, it's just good practice to make it all neat (and it reduces the amount of cable that is exposed to potential wear). In addition to that, by running it that way, you reduce the distance that the cable has to run along. I guess I had a little bit of an advantage though considering I had completely gutted the inside of my car and ran all the cables I could while it was in that state.

You can definitely get the Aurion from 0 to 100km in under 7 seconds. It all comes down to the conditions in which you test it out. Such variables as road/tyre temperature, air temperature and humidity, and whether or not you launch at the maximum throttle possible (just before any slip) are such factors that can affect the 0-100 times.

At this point in time, I'm pretty sure the only video of a stock TRD Aurion you will find on the net is: This is SecaBoy's TRD. It gives you an idea of how it sounds. Listen closely and you can catch the whirr of the supercharger. It's not as loud as I would personally prefer, but this is due to the new Eaton TVS. I recall Toyota talking about thier choice of the Eaton TVS since it is more efficient; saying that the much louder whirr you hear on other superchargers is actually wasted energy hence why the new TVS is more efficient.

I'll add my thanks to this thread as well; so thank you to SILVABULLIT for promoting the meet really well, and to everyone else for making it a really enjoyable time. I may have missed the wonderful cruise on Sunday, but the two nights that I was there were fun. Cruising down the M1 in a large group was a first for me and was enjoyable.

I can't wait to see the photos of the Sunday cruise. I really, really, really wanted to go and boy did I try. Had a fun time on the other nights though. Thanks everyone.

Woohoo. Look forward to meeting everyone tonight.

Yeah, you really have to do the manual calculations if you want to get an accurate figure. For me, I found my actual value turned out to be better than the in-dash approximation. When it's time to fill up, I always seem to always have a figure of 11.2l-11.7l/100km displaying on the dash. When I manually calculated it however (using an average of about 4000km) I had a fuel consumption figure of 10.4l/100km. Guess my Aurion was more fuel efficient than I thought. I just use the in-dash gauge to give me an idea of my driving style. I'm naturally lead footed and when I get a high figure on the dash, I usually then realise that I should back off a bit (mainly because fuel is like liquid gold these days). Even still, for the way I drive, I am quite satisfied with the 10.4l figure that I am getting. I'm approaching the 5000km mark with my car (distance that I have driven with it, and for which I have fuel receipts for), so I'll soon calculate my average fuel consumption with a 5000km average, once my tank is empty. I'm sure that won't be far off with the National Meet this weekend

Provided you can obtain the parts, you can install pretty much anything from a higher grade car into a lower grade of the same model. It all comes down to how much you want to spend, and how much time you will take to make it look like a factory feature. For example, you will need to run the wiring for the Toyotalink, and considering there is a fuse space in the engine bay fuse box, you would have to go through there if you wanted that "factory fit". Otherwise, if yyou do it your own way and can get your hands on the item, you too can have the Toyotalink in your Aurion.

It certainly can be fun to play around with such a feature. At least in this case, your wife is aware that you have the ability to track her, so a situation like that is all good. It's amazing how such technology has worked it way into the consumer market. If I had to borrow someone else's car with Toyotalink, first thing I would do is pop the bonnet and remove the fuse. Not that I have anything to hide or anything

I haven't really had any issues with the front end scraping. I found that the front clears the inital step in driveways (that use the angled gutters) pretty well. The only problem I do get is with the rear end. After having some metal scraping (a really painful sound, luckily it was the muffler and not the tips) I no longer take any chances with steep looking driveways. Bit of a bummer since most of my mates have driveways that would put my Sportivo at such an angle that the rear will scrape. In situations where the front doesn't clear, taking it at an angle works wonders. Unfortunately though, that has it's limits to helping out with the rear. On my Camry, I could angle it cause it only had one muffler; can't win with the Aurion though, it's one or the other. I don't think I would be able to put up with it if I got it lowered. I just covered my scrape marks with touch up paint. I wasn't too fussy with getting mine absolutely perfect though since you have to look under the front to see it.

I also get water marks under my doors else well? And the gear changes does take time to change? Are referring to the slow gear changes under operating temperature, such as when you put your foot down to make it drop a gear? In that case, that is part of the design of this car. I think it changes slower to give a smoother gear change, which I must admit is pretty damn smooth.

Kool. I'm looking forward to Friday and Saturday night. Shame I wasn't able to get someone to cover my Sunday shift at work however.

You can enable/disable the lock/unlock beeps, as well as the indicator flashes. Unfortunately, you need to use the Intelligent Tester to do so which is a real nuisance as you have to go to the service department every time you want to make a change.

yeah I already removed all the ballasts and bulbs when it happened for the first time because I didn't wanna blow the bulbs. Also installing HID definately would not be acceptable if I have some problems with my headlights so yeah, removing the HID was my first move when the condensation problem came up and I thought it's because of HID but it wasn't. I replaced with original bulbs and it still happens. :( In this case, making the warranty claim is the last option that I have and I will do that on Monday. And I think I am able to get the warranty because I actually turned everything back to original, since I only have done HID and they are all removed now. Everything under bonnet is still same as original. I've done the parking sensor on the back bumper but I don't think it's gonna void the warranty cuase there's nothing under bonnet. Thanks for advice. :D It is possible that it was caused by the HID's you know. If the problem arose after the HID's were installed and you changed it back to the original bulbs, you may have simply just trapped the moisture in the assembly and now it is going through the whole sealed greenhouse effect. When you put the bulbs back, it may have appeared that there was nothing inside the assembly, when it may have just been 'humid' and no moisture was condensed on the front end. Then as it was sealed, the moisture was then trapped, so whenever it cools down, it condenses, and then the cycle repeats. One method I would do to try and help clear it up it to choose a day when it is dry and sunny, remove the bulbs and let the headlight assembly sit with the sun shining on them (the hotter the day the better). Hopefully the moisture will then evaporate and work its way out of the assembly.

I'm not giving advice here so don't hold me accountable for trying to cheat the system; but one would probably remove everything to do with the HID's before you try and make a warranty claim. HID's can give reasonable claim to deny warranty replacement of the headlight assembly.

So how is the booking for Hooters managed? Just wondering because I will definitely be there, but it was probably my bad for not including it on that list of names that were some posts before this and probably throwing the count out.

I can't picture the OBD Key working with the head unit. Unless of course you could mess around with the head unit's firmware to enable it to run Windows Mobile applications.

I think it's just the LCD that makes the overall size of the head unit look larger. From just quickly glancing at it, you wouldn't think it would fit it, but you will find that all Aurion models have the same spacing for the head unit and A/C controls.

With the emblem unerneath the A/C controls, I really want to do that now. Did you also get that from Thailand as well? I'll probably give Toyota spare parts a call and see how much they will quote me for one. I'm prepared for an insane price though, so I'm wondering where else I can get it.

I hope someone my be able to confirm whether you can program the master key in a similar fashion. I couldn't get mine programmed with the instructions for the '02 Camry which is all that appears to be out there, so I took it into the Toyota service department to get programmed. Since they wipe all codes from the car then add them all again (they need to have all the keys you own), they programmed the remote for me as well so I never thought of trying the remote coding instructions. I too got the remote off eBay for cheap, so the major cost for me was the key itself ($100 for original Toyota). They used the Intelligent Tester to program the keys, so I figured while they were at it, I would restore my driver door only lock functionality (where you press unlock once to unlock only the drivers door) since originally, just one press unlocked all doors. I got my car at an auction so only had one set of keys, and didn't want to risk loosing my master then paying a lot more to get things fixed.

I like how you put the AURION emblem in that empty space below the A/C controls. It actually fits in quite well. Love the grill as well. As for installing the Angel Eyes, probably good to find someone more experienced? I wouldn't be willing to try it, but that's probably cause I tend to break things easily. Just remember to take photos of your progress.

I was a bit curious to get an overall average figure for my fuel consumption, so 4009.9 km and 417.14 litres later, I calculated my average fuel consumption to be 10.4l/100km. Not too bad I'd say for about 70% city driving (50% bumper to bumper, 20% no traffic). A lot of the time, I also like to cruise down the highway with my windows down, so I would think that wind turbulence would cause a bit of inefficiency as well. I thought I would be chewing through more fuel than that by the way I drive. I like to take off at lights and put my foot down to enter the highways and whatnot. If only I could change my driving habits; then I would get better economy. But it's so hard when you have all this power that you don't want to put to waste.

Hi Mate, I had my kit installed by Toyota dealer but they must have got the kit from Fulcrum. I am taking my car to Fulcrum for wheel alignment. Toyota covered it under warranty. I guess I'll see how much of a run-around my local Toyota service department is going to give me. The whole warranty thing is the only reason why I will rather have them fit the part (considering TEIN USA quote the part cost at USD$157, I wouldn't think the the SuperPro one at Fulcrum would be that far off). I do have my limits of patience, and I'm not going to keep running back and forward having them do jack all to the car and trying to convince me that everything has been fixed and is fine. If that happens, I will just go to Fulcrum and let the "professionals" do it. For the amount of hours Toyota can waste on me, I'd rather work some overtime and pay for Fulcrum to do it. I'll see how I go.