DJKOR

Just came across this in my insomnia related YouTube spree:

You should see if these guys will let you pick up instead of post: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AS-NZS-1698-OPEN-FACE-HELMET-LARGE-WHITE-/130466345940?pt=AU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media&hash=item1e606673d4 Would also be good if you get yourself a helmet cause you can take it when you go go-karting instead of borrowing one.

Open the glove box and you will find three Philips head screws along the top (like where the top of the box that opens out touches). Then go down into the foot well and remove the plastic kick panel there )you will need to remove your door sill to make this easier). You will then see a 10mm bolt holding the glove box compartment in and a screw with a 10mm hex head on the exact opposite side. Remove these and your entire glove box assembly is complete to remove. You can get an idea of where the screws are etc from the diagram attached. Just picture it reversed: If you just want to drop down the box that swings open so you can access the panel filter, have a look in the owners manual because you will find exactly what you need there. Basically you disengage the air-shock on the left side, push the back of the glove box unit with one hand, and pull on the centre of the glove box itself with the other.

Just measure the one you have there Andrew. A ruler is fine because you are testing whether it isn't 60.1mm or not. Then I reckon we try those guys Jase suggested to see if they are able to make them for us.

It took a while for these things to finally appear, but if anyone is interested: Toyota Aurion illuminated White LED Door Sill Plate Toyota Aurion illuminated Blue LED Door Sill Plate Toyota Aurion illuminated Red LED Door Sill Plate From the looks of the photo, it would seem like you may need to modify your existing door sills to make it fit properly but without seeing a set in person, I can't make that judgement.

Up to $305 with just over an hour left. Looks like someone out there is interested.

Awww damn. I shall do that. Just remember to remind me on Thursday to give you your money back.

Nup. Selley's bathroom silicone FTW! Though you could use that black automotive gasket silicone if you really wanted to though. That stuff definitely won't be going anywhere any time soon.

Notice the badly applied silicone all around my ballasts? Goes to show I can't even trust them where they are. Also helps with reducing rattling and vibration.

I would like to make a birthday shoutout to Brennden (SILVABULLIT). I have learnt so much from him over the years as well as heard many entertaining stories. Hope you have a great day mate.

That said, I made an assumption that the 'Mustang Dynamometer' is of similar operation to a Dynojet. I have never seen one myself or seen how it compares to others so I can't accurately say where that brand dyno sits among others. Jsut that the figures it appears to have produced in this case don't seem to be on the same comparative level to a Dyno Dynamics. All I can say is that you just need to be careful with what you compare figures with as it may end up in unrealistic expectations.

Changing the oil brand/type isn't really going to give you any performance gain in terms of power etc. Unless of course it had the wrong oil or a really cheap oil in it to start with... but then again, cheap oils have been shown to be just as good as the more expensive ones. Gains to be made here would run across the lines of engine longevity and possibly an increased service interval. That said, things like this are usually a personal preference and there is no single right answer. As for why it may feel slow for you, here is an answer I prepared earlier. Just reverse the scenario because you sit higher in the Aurion: It's the perspective of how you see the ground. Because the ground is closer to you you, it seems like it is moving quicker. Just like how when you are driving (or sitting passenger looking out the window) and the trees etc that are closer to the car appear to be flying by, whereas the trees etc that are further from the car seem to 'move' much slower. Basically the same idea, but in reference to the road.

No engine mods (internals or electronics) whatsoever. This car is meant to last me some time, so I don't really plan on doing anything apart from the already tried and tested. Unless a large sum of money falls into my hands.

25%-30% drivetrain loss is nothing out of the ordinary for a FF vehicle. One thing that is absolutely essential to remember is that when you are comparing dyno figures, you are also making sure the variable of the dyno brand is kept constant. Otherwise there is an easy potential for incorrect comparisons to be made such as what you have brought up here. The most common example I like to use is Dyno Dynamics vs. Dynojet. If you ever have a comparison between these two dynos, I would immediately stop there with comparing figures. It would appear that the 'Mustang Dynamometer' would probably measure power the same way as the Dynojet. Either way, I wouldn't use the figure from that to make a comparison with johnnieboi who used a Dyno Dynamics. In cases like that above, you will consistently find that the figures on a Dynojet can be up to 18-20% higher than that of a Dyno Dynamics. Take the Aurion power figures as an example. Countless times the Americans have discussed how they get so much gain out of simple mods on their 2GR's because they compare their dyno figures from a Dynojet to our figures produced by a Dyno Dynamics. However, when you look closely at all the figures, you would find the same level of inflation in the figures across the board.

Props for the write-up METAL13. That statement makes me LOL: It is completely hidden under the plastic that goes on top:

Today I revised my intake. Got a new filter which was shorter in length which enables me to extend the pipe prior to the MAF so that the flow is more even as it reaches the MAF. Removed the bracket for the old air box and cleaned up the area around the filter so that when it moves with the engine movement, it will not make contact with anything around it. Took her for a test drive and she still feels like she is pulling just as hard, so I'm happy so far. I guess the run at the drags next Wednesday will ensure she hasn't lost any power.

1c cable tie that I have already vs. $1 hose clamp that I need to go out and buy. I'm pretty sure the cable tie is working. I will replace the hose eventually though because I probably should. May be experimenting with the operation of that valve anyways.

Dave and Ash? Honestly there are no 2 drivers that are more spirited then them. Yeah... but they can drive and not simply just 'waste' their brakes.

My recommendation as well. I used one strip though because I don't need THAT much lighting.

Once again, not so much what I did with my car today, more-so what I did to it yesterday. Yesterday I modified my intake a little because I wanted to get rid of the rubber flexi hose that was there. At the moment it is just in a testing phase so it is not what the final solution will look like. Close to, but now that I have found that it is performing as expected, I will be cleaning it up in the morning to make it all neater: With that said, the above photo comes with a story to tell. Yesterday afternoon, the car was driving perfectly fine up until the point where I went to 999 Automotive to pick up the bits and pieces for my intake. When I leave the place, it drives fine for a few hundred metres or so and then when I come to a stop at the lights, I feel the car surging a bit and notice the revs drop to 500RPM (about 200-300 lower than normal). After a few seconds, the revs stabilise and all seems normal again. The when I accelerate off gently, I notice it has this rather pronounced flat spot between 1000RPM and 1500RPM... after which it drove normally. I definitely knew something was up but I didn't really care too much and just figured that I'll be playing with the intake anyways and can give it an ECU reset and see how that goes. I drive to Autobarn to get some more pieces and stop the engine. When I go to leave, I noticed it started a little funny and the revs dropped to about 500RPM and the surging happened again. A few seconds later it seemed to work itself out. So I continued on my way. As I was driving out, I was in some start-stop traffic and as I was lightly applying the brakes, the revs spiked all of a sudden and I nearly rear ended the car in front. I was getting annoyed now. I thought it won't be far to get home so I'll just take it easy. As I continue along the way, I get the following: Didn't really surprise me. All it did was confirm that I wasn't imagining things. Anyways, I decide to read the code and got this. Oh the irony (in that I bought bits for the intake, and got a code related to the air/fuel mix): I immediately had an idea as to what the problem was, but I just told myself that I will fix it when I get home. I only had to stop by Bunnings on the way so I got that out of the way first. One thing to note that was after the initial flat spot, once the car was moving faster than about 20km/h, it seemed normal... even under heavy acceleration. It didn't go into limp mode or anything. So anyways, I get home and look straight to the rear of the supercharger. As per my expectation, I observed the following: I knew to look here because Ash (SecaBoy) reported of the same issue with his some time ago and the fault was something I had kept in my head. Basically it is the vacuum line for the S/C bypass valve actuator. This bit of hose is really loose fitting on the TRD's and in this case it managed to get a fair deal of oil built up on it which led to it sliding off enough to leak the vacuum. When there is no vacuum applied to the valve, the S/C will produce boost as the bypass valve remains closed, and when the engine is idling, this extra boost was upsetting the engine as it was not expecting this. So anyways, I took the hose off and since I didn't have any other hose to suit, I ran some degreaser through this one to clean it up and thoroughly cleaning the ports that it connects to. Even still, the hose was rather loose fitting, so I took the next step: That should buy me some time until I can get some tighter fitting hose. I cleared the code and the car runs normal again.

Knew I could rely on you Hiro to provide a logical and clear answer to the question.

Kenshin smoked you off the line Mick.

If there's no law, then explain how police in NSW and QLD have the authority to fine you and have it defined as a fineable offense in their documentation?

Off topic, RNN4MK: could you please learn how to post properly.