DJKOR

Since you seem to be in the know, could you please help out and find out what longer Goodyear one would be suitable for the TRD then?

I think you will find the TOCAU group in Canberra is going to be pretty quiet. Probably better off driving to Sydney once a month for their meets.

Sounds exciting. Seeking an adrenalin rush are we Andrew?

I would suggest DashCommand as I have personally used it (iPhone version though) and find it does what I want it to do. For live monitoring, the refresh rate is typically limited to your OBD reader so hopefully the one you have doesn't have a low refresh rate. That said, I wouldn't rely on the OBD to provide instantaneous figures as well. There may be some minor delay regardless. Also moved this to the Audio/Video/Electronics section.

That certainly is different to most cases. I'd be pushing them to inspect the VVT-i controllers... more so the locking pin mechanism and the oil flow to the controllers. The more efficient option I would say would be to sell the car and move on. Unfortunately that is the sad truth when it comes to these cars. They aren't exactly perfect depending on how you look at it, and part of owning it is to accept it's negatives. Good luck getting the tappet-like sound fixed. Would be the first I've heard of if you manage to.

Hearing that makes me think your VVT-i controller is really stuffed. Also sounds like they are replacing tensioners left right and centre to cover a more serious issue. But to be sure of that, does your rattle sound like the one the guy has in the video I posted in the following thread: Aurion VVTI Noise Do you want your car back at all... because the 2GR-FE is a noise engine by nature, and the supercharger rattling at idle doesn't make it any better. There will be other noises there which can't be corrected.

The airconditioner has nothing to do with the heater. If the aircon needed to be regassed, it would not be cooling. KSpec is having the opposite where it is not heating... but only on the drivers side. Because of this, I suspect the issue to the the servo motor or the vane that is part of the heater core that controls how much air passes through it. Out of curiosity, with the car off hold down the 'AUTO' and the 'Recirculate/Fresh Air' buttons and turn the ignition to the ON position (press the Engine Start button twice with your foot off the brake). When all the lights and display start to flash, release the buttons and wait until the lights stop flashing. Afterwards, any error codes should then be displayed in the form of a number on the driver's side temperature display. Let me know what numbers you get. If you get 21 and/or 24, don't panic. That's just the light sensor at the front not reading a bright value. If you get 41/43/46... then it's definitely the air mix servo. If it still only displays 0 or 21 and/or 24, press the 'Recirculate/Fresh Air' button, let it cycle through it's check (it will count up from 0 to 9) and when it gets back to 0 again, press the 'AUTO' button to see if the numbers have changed.

The MAF is held on with two screws. Simply loosen these and the MAF comes straight off. Personally, have you tried cleaning your MAF firstly? Some hints are provided here: Cleaning MAF Sensor. You do realise that the supercharger itself comes with the actuator attached as part of how it's purchased. Therefore, they don't simply just carry the supercharger only or the actuator only, neither are they going to pull one off a complete supercharger assembly. If you want either bit separately, you need to wait as it is a special order. It's not entirely based on who gets more money because think about it. If I was someone from Toyota, I would rather you get a new actuator than a completely new supercharger had it have failed during the warranty period. If you have the time, why don't you ring Eaton/Harrop and ask if you can get a replacement actuator for the R1320/HVT1320 that was designated for the TRD Aurion? You may have more luck going down that path.

Astra Turbo

I will be out tonight. Depending on how I'm feeling towards the end of the day, I may have something that some of your guys will appreciate.

Cheers Michael, John, and Pete for the photos. Love your work.

Is it just me, or does anyone else think using heat is the opposite of what you should be doing if you want to defog your windows? You do realise how your windows fog up right? The most effective way to defog your windows is with your air conditioning as this will remove the moisture from the air. You can even combine this with heat so you can keep warm while clearing your windows. Otherwise, if you don't want to use the air conditioner, you can turn your heat up and combine this with putting your windows down a crack (though the more air you let in the better), as this will balance the humidity inside the car with the air outside and will reduce or remove the issue of foggy windows. Using heat with no air conditioning or with your windows up is just asking for your windows to fog up.

To some it may sound like that's what coopersmummy06 was saying, but to me, I also look at the fact that she mentioned "or after work if I don't go anywhere on my lunch break" which may not necessarily be a cold enough time for such a thing to happen. Also she mentioned "The smoke does smell though and there's a lot but it goes after about 10 seconds" which leads me to think it may be more than just water vapour since on days when it's cold enough for it to form from the exhaust, you will typically get it for around a minute or so.

Exactly that. I keep it in my pocket all the time, so I like to keep it light.

I don't have any legal experience in such so I am only stating what I think. Do not in any case treat this as truth. I think that you are in no way responsible for his excess. As far as that goes, that I'm sure that is a contract between the driver of the rental car and Hertz themselves. You should not be responsible to pay for their excess. Personally, I wouldn't think he could stand a chance in court to try and make you pay. On a side note, anyone ever renting out a car, it is always wise to pay the extra charge for insurance during the period of hire.

You don't need to get a 'track specification' (if such a thing existed) oil filter for your car if you plan on bringing it out to the track. No need to panic.

It would cope but be limited in it's abilities. But that's no reason not to head out there. Just bear in mind that depending how you drive, your brakes and engine will be given quite a workout.

You have to be more accurate with your terminology. What you describe is water vapour which is the result of the hit exhaust gases heating up the moisture in the cool air, much like when you exhale in cold air. Smoke is mostly the result of burning something.

The TRD is susceptible to all issues that the normal Aurion experiences. Do a search on the Aurion forum to read more about the various issues including pulling to the left and knocking during acceleration and braking. These issues have been discussed time and time again on this forum. As well, things like torque steer, which the Aurion also has a bit of, are more pronounced on the TRD due to the extra torque. As for the play in the front end, as you may be aware the Aurion is FWD, so depending on how hard you accelerate, the steering can be a combination of being light and pulling to the left or right due to a combination of all the above factors.

Take off the plastic trim from under the engine bay. From there, you can then access the foglights where you will see a knob which you can turn to adjust the aim. Edit: I managed to fish this photo up. You will get the idea.

This was something brought up recently with some locals and I figured I may as well mention it just to see if there is interest. I was thinking of taking the TRD out to QR for a track day so I can get some figures and to have some fun. Since the air is cool, I figured it would be a nice time to get it out of the way before Summer reaches us again. The day I was looking at was Saturday 27th of August... otherwise if others would be more interested, Saturday 1st of October. The costs involved with regards to the track day itself would be $145 for the track day plus $20 for an AASA day license (or $55 for a yearly license if you so desire). So... who would be interested?

So that wraps up the 2011 TOCAU Annual Meet. It was a pleasure to be there for all the days and this now makes it the 4th Annual Meet I have been to and the 3rd that I have made it to on all events. Once again I would like to thank everyone that had attended because it would not have been a meet without you guys and girls. I would also like to give a big thanks to mick.wheelz for taking care of the organising duties that I could not manage to cover, SILVABULLIT for his expertise in sorting things out and getting us sorted for the Show and Shine, and the rest of the QLD crew that kept my head screwed on when I was stressing out like crazy trying to get everything finalised. From the sounds of it, everyone seemed to have enjoyed themselves. It was great the weather held good for the Friday night and most of the Show and Shine, and when it did turn less than good, it wasn't overly an issue. Just a shame that it affected the roads on the Sunday cruise because I'm sure there are those of you out there that would have loved that drive just that little bit more. At least though it gives you an idea of what we have nearby to us should you ever come back to Brisbane again. Remember guys, we invite you to attend next year's Annual Meet which will take place on the Queen's Birthday long weekend as well, so start planning to get some time off if you expect to still have a Toyota this time next year. Also, if you have any photos or videos of the meet, please feel free to share them in the following thread: 2011 TOCAU Annual Meet Pics and Videos Try this: TOCA-meet-2011

That kind of attitude is not going to make you look friendly and to be honest, does not show respect for the fact that I have gone to the effort to produce the Aurion FAQ's at the top of the Aurion forum. If you refered to the FAQ's prior to asking, you would find the following answer:

Whenever my TRD goes in to a tire shop etc, I always remove the wheel caps first. Got that bit of advice from David (SupaTouring) after he had a service department scratch up his wheels.

I've never had issues removing the caps. Just grip the cap with the palm of your hand and twist it until gaps are formed where you can insert a plastic tool. I use the nozzle from a caulking tube. Once you insert it into three points, the cap usually pops off. The spring steel does lose it's tension after A fair few removals though, but I've found that you can get the tension back in them by removing them and trying to straighten them if you get what I mean.