DJKOR

Just pay the rego in Vic. Drive around SA till rego nearly out again. Pretty sure you will need an inspection to change states. That's sort of what I would suggest too. Except when you get to SA, change your registration over and cancel your Victorian registration and claim back your remaining rego. They don't always inspect the vehicle (well in QLD anyways) but you should be prepared to present it for inspection if they do request it. That's usually for new registrations though. In your case, the Transport SA website sums it up nicely: Registering an interstate vehicle Unless you hold a current interstate registration certificate in exactly the same name as the intended South Australian registration the vehicle must have a vehicle inspection to confirm the correct identity of the vehicle. After the vehicle has been inspected you can provide the following information to a Service SA customer service centre: - Your completed application for registration and third party insurance and your inspection certificate - Evidence of identity if you have not previously been issued a licence or registered a vehicle in South Australia - Payment of fees. You can use the EzyReg fee calculator . To avoid paying stamp duty you will need to produce the interstate registration certificate showing the vehicle was registered in your name. After you have registered the vehicle in South Australia you can apply to the state where the vehicle was previously registered for a refund of registration fees. YES this is what im eyeing! :D 25% discount SCA FTW! I've been using Penrite SIN since my first brake fluid change. Never turned back.

Taylor Dayne - I'll Be Your Shelter

Talk about a big meet. Was good to have a larger crowd again despite our cool weather.

Womack & Womack - Teardrops

Ahhhhhhh FML! I should have waited. As much as the RDA's are doing their job, I like my brands and I just prefer DBA.

This is why you don't let them drive your car... or in other cases, even have a car like that.

Win.

Did you notice the sad smiley? Mick, it's certainly going to take some getting used to seeing you cruise around in this thing. I think it's the size of the car that puts everything out of whack. Keep this one clean okay.

I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with Nitto Tires? I seem to read good things about these tires, but as with most reviews, it's hard to decide who's side you want to agree with. Being the person that I am, I don't like trying to justify spending $400 a pop for 19 inch tires on my TRD when you can get some fairly good alternatives out there for half the price. Right now I have made the shift to Federal which at the moment I am using the 595SS for $195 a corner with some fairly good performance. Since the 595EVO was on backorder when I needed tires but is now available, I was planning to make the change to the Evo's which will not cost too much more. Today I came across Nitto Tires and wondered if they may be worth trying out. I would probably get the INVO (seems to be around $230 a corner), although if I can source some for a good price I will try out the NT-05 (currently around $300 a corner). Does anyone know if these tires are on par with Federal or are they mostly better or worse. At the moment, the Nitto NT-05 gets a plus in my books because it's about the only semi-slick out there that is affordable for me that would fit on my 19 inch TRD wheels and stay the same size as stock.

I don't see anything wrong with trying a new location/style/etc. I reckon you should organise something, see how popular it is with those that attend, and then make the changes as required.

I'm no physicist so what I mention is just my train of thought. I'm thinking more along the tires too. You mention you moved from 215/55R16 to 215/60R16. This therefore changes your overall diameter of your wheels/tires from 642.87mm to 664.21mm. Now from my understanding, the larger the overall diameter the larger the force you need to exert to get it to change velocity. When cruising at a constant speed you should be fine but it's only during any moment where you increase speed (even only by a few km/h) that you need to use more force than what you typically would. In the long run, maybe this could be having some influence on your increased fuel consumption.

Yes I am holding it on start. So key it over to start and let it go? The old school ignition is not like our push-button ignition Steve. In the keyed ignition, the starter will only crank when the key is held on start. vekzla: this is now getting to the point where trying to diagnose this online is going to prove a little difficult. We could keep trying suggestions and you can keep trying them, but this would probably result in a lot of time use up and no solution found. Your best bet would be to find a reputable mechanic to check over the car for you. As for the battery issue, I have indeed heard cases similar to yours where they said the battery passed all the typical tests, but putting in a new battery fixed it. Go figure. If you can get your hands on another battery to test it, maybe that might be useful.

The best thing to give you an idea on how to approach this would be to have a look at the following manual: Instrument_Panel.pdf (if you can't view it, log out of your Google Account) I know it's not exactly for our Aurion, but I have pulled my old Aurion apart and can say that the service manual attached will give you some indication on where clips are and how things are held together. Combine this with the guide on how to remove the centre console for your stereo removal (please look at the FAQ's) and you should be fine.

You waited 8 weeks for a rim job

My definitions are a little ambiguous. You steering should typically come to a stop (by means of end stops) before reaching the full limit in which you will get a squealing sound coming from the power steering pump. Over time, it can be possible to exceed these end stops or you can also reach the limit of the steering by applying more pressure against the end stop. When you reach that end and get the squealing, that's where I would define it't absolute full lock as it is this point where you aren't really getting the wheel to turn any further. Typically when driving and doing turning manoeuvres, you tend to get close to the end stop but most of the time you will find you are a little bit away from the end stop just due to the way the steering feels as you get to that end.

There shouldn't be a need to worry. It does take a bit to blow a seal... and when you do, you certainly will know about it. Will empty your PS fluid reservoir in a matter of seconds.

You're welcome. That was on the shorter track though. The Le Mans track is quite a bit longer. Uncle Brenn is a pro driver compared to most of us.

Done. Seriously. What do you want?

At the top of the page in the upper right corner, locate your username and click the down arrow next to it. Then you select "My Setting". From there you click the "Profile" tab and then the "Change Signature" link. Alternatively, click the following link: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=usercp&tab=members&area=signature Remember to follow the: Signature Regulations

Custom titles available on request.

Also in the interests of keeping the cruises with their origins, it would be best to keep it to Toyota's as much as possible. It just doesn't seem right otherwise.

It is highly advisable not to hold your steering wheel at absolute full lock for any more than a second or so. If you can avoid hitting that point all together, it would be even better. That sound you hear (provided it is a higher pitch squealing noise) is indeed the power steering pump working harder trying to pump fluid that won't be moving anything. It can also lead to blown seals (one scenario I have done this in is doing a sharp u-turn and I hit end of travel really quick and rather forceful) which won't be very friendly, so be mindful of it when you turn your wheel fast either way to the end.

I was meant to get this interest going earlier but never got around to it. Remember how we were discussing a go-kart night? Well what do you think we should do. Should we just pick a Thursday night and make use of the Le Mans Track with 4 sessions in the Schumacher Karts for $95 and work out a way to team race, or should we enter in for a single round in their monthly enduro? Details on the enduro are here: http://www.kingstonpark.com.au/pdf/team_challenge.pdf The next round is on Thursday 21st of July. If we did that, remember we would need to arrive for registration at 5:45pm which may be a bit too early for most of us. So maybe the first option may be better. That way we can rock up at like 7pm etc and work it out from there.

My opinion, just post up what you want to do and when and we will get interest from there. I wouldn't go as far as defining a it as a monthly type thing with a set date etc (eg. last Saturday of each month) because once a month still feels too often in my opinion and I reckon I'd get bored of it all rather quick. But that's me. I have my own opinions.

I never really understood having a wood trim (real or not) in a modern car. Something just doesn't seem right. As for the Camry, once could only hope that it is somewhat improved. I like how Akio Toyoda mentions "we have listened to our customers" etc etc. If they mate a manual gearbox to the 2GR-FE, then I would say they have listened.