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Everything posted by DJKOR
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Everything is all a possibility. I have a tendency to drive 10km/h over the speed limit risking the possibility of getting caught. It all comes down to you at the end of the day. I always carry a set of halogen bulbs in my glove box. Been caught once before and told I can't drive the car anywhere until it was fixed. I popped the hood, swapped the bulbs out and said "fixed". That was back in 2005 in my SV21 Camry with reflector headlights though. I was irresponsible back then and didn't think of how stupid HID's in reflector housings were. At least now I try to take care to make sure what I do is not going to affect other road users. With the HID's in the Aurion projectors, they aren't glaring to other road users in normal driving situations. If they were, I would be adjusting the aim to compensate. It probably won't save my behind if they got checked as part of an insurance claim, but I guess that's a bridge to cross if I get to it.
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Depending on the road, most cars tend to veer to the left (or right). This is due to the camber on the road. The Aurion and Camry however exhibit the veering to the left issue on flat surfaces however and is caused by suspension related issues and not the road.
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Busted Taillight! Probably helps to re-read the first post and then mine: If you get an opportunity, have a look at the tail lights on an AT-X/Presara, then look at the ones on a Sportivo. The Sportivo ones are a slightly darker shade of red. The headlights are also different in that the AT-X/Presara is a brighter shade of chrome. Looking for the cheapest way to fix it Not exactly. The Sportivo and TRD have a darker shade of red (which I suspect is inside tiniting of the chrome... thanks Steven) for the tailights and the headlights have a tinted chrome internal. This makes them both appear darker. So you will in fact have mismatched lights if you don't change all of them if going between grades. In terms of the OP's question, the physical size and dimensions are the same though. Edit: I happen to have a left side tail light for a pre-facelift Sportivo BTW. It means a bit to me however, but I guess I may be able to part with it.
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Yeah... I think some people are getting the wrong impression from a DSG. They are putting the DSG into the same boat as an auto, which is completely not the case. On a side note, I think it would be interesting to see what the responses would be if the question was "If you had to pick between a manual and a DSG with no extra to pay, which would you choose?" If you still happen to choose manual (don't know why you would, but hey, it's your choice), lets change the car to a high end supercar... would you still choose manual?
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So obviously it's not straight tap water toyota are using to fill the 50% of the coolant up. Either way. No harm done and if anything it's just some more preventive maintenance that I have no regret doing. It's the OCD in me that makes me do it This is why if you read what I said, I mentioned it is probably a case of them sticking with a blanket rule. They have had to use the 80,000km interval in the past due to having to dilute it yourself so they have probably chosen to stick with it to reduce confusion. It's like where they say that you can't use anything but Dot 3 brake fluid, when this is most likely not the case. No harm done changing it sooner, but people need to realise that they are still okay if they don't simply because they aren't anal like you. Otherwise if you start confusing them by saying the bottle says blah, then they will panic thinking they are doing harm to their engine by following the manual.
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Fancy that. I never would have thought the figures were a published amount so to speak. Is that like a publicly accessible database, or something related to your like of work/study? Also funny to see that there were more white than red. I thought it would have been the other way around.
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Um... Have you tried Bunnings?
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- 1991 Toyota Camry (SV21) - 2007 Toyota Aurion Sportivo SX6 - 2007 TRD Aurion 3500SL I liked the Camry the most. Became my car in 2004 and had it until 2008. It was in the family since early 1992 and despite it being slow, there were feelings attached to it.
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Far out. I love the colour, but damn that would have been some effort to do as wrap.
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Being a fighter pilot would be the most awesome job ever. Having sole control over such a fine (and extremely expensive) machine... one could only imagine.
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Just my thoughts, but maybe once you drain and refill the system, you are introducing a higher potential for contamination. Therefore, the initial fill allows you to get nearly double the service life meaning saved costs and less of an environmental impact. As for your coolant reservoir, it is normal for it to drop lower in winter as well as in summer due to evaporation. I'm not saying you shouldn't change your coolant, but I'm saying that it is unnecessary and you aren't really benefiting yourself. Edit: I did some reading around and found something that someone said. It goes like this: This was in relation to the red Long Life Coolant which requires dilution before use. Since the Super Long Life Coolant already comes diluted, maybe you could still get the same 150,000km service interval from it. This could just be a case of the manufacturer using a blanket rule even when circumstances change... like the whole Dot 3 brake fluid discussion.
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I'd get the DSG, especially if getting a higher end car. It may essentially be like driving an auto at the end of the day, but getting the most performance out of it would be where I stand. Stuff the whole 'manual is more fun' debate. I'd rather have more performance.
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Before you go say "Toyota says otherwise apparently", why don't you actually look at your service specification book and tell me what it says. Edit: For the benefit of others so they aren't confused between what has initially been said and what you have now said.
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GO KARTS - SATURDAY 06/08/2011
DJKOR replied to trentmeyer23's topic in Previous/Past Club Meets & Events
FFFFFUUUUUU!!! Already have plans. -
The bracket on them as well as the suction cup is a piece of sh**. Customisation is required. Things you need to do to make it usable: - Fill the hollow section of the bracket with something solid (eg. epoxy). If not, the bracket flexes with the slightest bumps and your video goes shaky. - Tie the camera to the bracket. I used cable tie velcro. If not, the camera will fall out of the holder. - Secure the pivoting lens assembly. I used the same velco mentioned above. If not, the front lens will shake with the slightest bumps. - Use a washer or some creativity to make the suction lever pull up higher. The suction cup does not apply much suction and using a washer can aid this. You can see what I mean in the photo.
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What Andrew says is correct. The Aurion suffers from the same fault.
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Rico Soarez - TV Dinner
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I'm usually wearing my work clothes when I wash my car. Noohing brand name. For my cleaning cloths however, I use Kenco products. Only exception is my wax buffing cloth an drying towel. I use a premium Meguiar's microfibre buffing cloth for them. Edit: Damn, you beat me Andrew.
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LOL at the d*ck contest. These are all the products I currently have and need (minus the cloths etc):
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For consistency I will quote myself: name your car Oh yeah, forgot to update this: Aimee Because it weren't for AAMI, I wouldn't have a replacement car and as well, I really am lucky to be with Aimee. If I was to try and think of a descriptive word, the first that comes to mind has to be classy.
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There just isn't anything groundbreaking. At least if they aren't going to put a lot into making it look like it's unique and not a mashup of other cars, they could have put more effort into the performance.
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That other rendered pic nearly looks like the Gen 5 is making a comeback At least the TRD still holds a little bit of uniqueness, but I don't expect that to stay around for much longer.
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Massive Attack - Teardrop
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I would personally do the following (in order of preference): 1) Solder on the wire and feed it though the hole in the plug 2) Use a bootlace ferrule and some creativity 3) Go to a self-serve wrecker and cut off the connector if present (or find a connector of equivalent size and cut that off to extract the bits)