DJKOR

LOL. If I was to drive my TRD the way you drive your Aurion, I can get 9.1l/100km in the city and 7.6l/100km on the highway. But driving like that rarely ever happens.

if thats the case i think im gonna try a relay harness i possibly might have somewhere and see if that helps..otherwise will have to stick to using the on and off switch for headlights instead of leaving it on auto mode.. You could put in a relay harness, or you could do the right thing and don't use auto headlights. If you noticed anything about cars, it is that the starter motor pulls a lot of current. This makes things like your stereo and other accessories cut out when you start your car. Your headlights are included in this. What you are doing is putting more stress on the ballast for that short period of time that the starter motor is engaged. Especially at the initial stage of the HID lamp igniting where the lamp is pulling the most current so the arc can establish and stabilise. But hey it's your kit. If you cook it faster, it's going to cost you to replace it. You aren't the first to ask the question by the way... or the first person I have said the following to: Trouble with your HID's Just a note here, you should not start your engine with your HID's on. You should only turn your HID's on AFTER the engine has started. This is why I don't use the Auto headlights. This is one surefire way to kill your HID's much quicker than normal (moreso the aftermarket kits). Ever wonder why your radio cuts out when you start your engine? This is because the starter motor pulls a large amount of current, and any accessory device is going to suffer from this. So when you start your engine, you are 'pulling' power away from the HID ballasts and they are trying to regulate the voltage to the lamps, but can't do so properly. It puts stress on the ballasts and lamps.

No. Not required as the stock wiring is more than sufficient to handle a 35 watt HID kit. Others may try to convince you otherwise, but trust me, you don't need it.

The mounting tabs on the RSB appear to be physically wider and more rounded than all the ones I've seen. Something is definitely not right. On the front strut brace, the mounting holes are more rectangular than the ones I've seen which are rounded. But don't take my word for it. This is purely just my opinion. If they do happen to be fakes, I would start looking at eBay and PayPal policies and then start contacting the seller.

Neither discrepancy looks like transit damage to me mate.

That flat section was not on either of the bars I had/have, neither have I seen such a thing on the bars that others here have had. They never fit properly, so UR stopped supplying them. The RSB originally had the code UR-AR19-123. Somewhere along the line this was changed to UR-AR19-159. That is the 19mm bar. UR-AR23-221 is the 23mm RSB. Also spotted two discrepancies. The bolt holes for the front strut brace are cut differently to what I have seen on all the front strut braces I've come across, and the mounting points for the RSB look a little different to usual. If you ask me, unless there are some changes made to their design, then these don't seem right.

Is it a whistling/vacuum type noise? If so, it is normal as far as I'm aware. Don't know what causes it though but I have heard it on many automatics.

Care to point out where exactly you got this information from that they are rated for 150,000km+? The spark plugs are of the type with an Iridium tip and a Platinum pad (ground), which from what I have read from Denso/NGK/Bosch, are specified to have a typical service life of 100,000km.

+ = WIN!

I should have been more specific. I didn't mean annoying in terms of availability, I mean annoying in terms of being a size that despite it's somewhat commonality, it's price tends to be higher than 19 inch tires like those on the Commodore which are 245/40R19.

I'll be there as usual.

Really? Last time tires were a concern for me (ie. not long ago), they were still an annoying size. Potenza Adrenalin at about $400 a pop, and S. Drives at $430. Speaking of which.... I am NEVER buying Yokohama again for a FWD unless I have a bit of money to burn. As far as it goes, Federals are doing the job quite well and have decent wear for me to consider it again. But my circumstances mean I drive quite a lot, so value plays a huge role. Using the 595SS's at the moment and will go 595EVO on the next round. Unfortunately these have been on quite a backorder so I have to wait. But as the original question asks for best cost efficiency with respect to mileage, I'd say the 595SS. They have more 'meat' than the 595EVO and are of course cheaper as mentioned.

Sounds like a plausible issue. If the lamp had a manufacturing defect (all it takes is the electrode gap to be slightly larger than it should), a large enough jolt (easy to happen while driving) can cause the arc to extinguish. Ever gone around kicking street lights? Same concept.

Best compromise between cost and performance: Federal 595SS. I paid $190 per tire (plus fitting) and they sure do their job Spend a little more though and get best bang for your buck with Federal 595EVO.

Total count: 0 Why? Because of what Mick said above. Asking the question "who got booked" is creating an impression that we are not responsible drivers. Sure there are some that fit into that category, but it's not something worthy of discussion. It was just a less obvious way of saying "who drove like an idiot over Easter and was unlucky enough to get caught due to the extra police presence". Being pulled over for an RBT also fits into the same category as well since they usually have reason if they are going to pull you over. Driving into a road-block RBT though is another story and is nothing out of the ordinary if you come across multiples of these in a holiday period.

After some recent discussion, the linking of copied software is no longer permitted on this forum. As iGO8 is licensed software, sharing of download links related to this is not permitted.

Another from me. When the flow of traffic in your lane comes to a sudden stop (car turning, bus stopped, etc) and everyone in the lane behind you manage to squeeze into the gaps in the free-flowing lane next to you. Leaving you till last.

It will be plug and play (well maybe some modification of the plug, but nothing hard). But a Mazda horn? Really? They sound like clown horns to me.

12(IO) as this will supply the power to the parkers in the wiring diagram I modified.

No I was going to give up on all this because of the whole deal with my figures not being perfect, thus pointless, however I will still continue with an update. Now I do understand that there can be many variables that can affect the final figure produced here, but I reckon I have reasonable justification to state my figures. For example: 1) The amount you fill up on each fuel tank can have some variation depending on environmental conditions etc. This may cause you to to more or less fuel in the tank at each fill. Well my response is that my fuel consumption figures as stated in this post are an average over 6378 litres of fuel. With that amount of fuel used to calculate the average, I'm pretty sure being off by a litre or two is going to throw things out of proportion by much. 2) The distance travelled may not be an accurate representation due to inaccuracies in the speedo etc. This is one factor that can really affect the final figures, but we can't have a perfect world can we. Besides, I'm not doing this for scientific research, so the readings provided by my odometer are sufficient for this purpose. So with that out of the way, here are my figures: TRD Fuel Consumption (Excel Spreadsheet) - At 5313km, my total fuel used was 500.99L and my average fuel consumption was 9.43L/100km - At 9532km, my total fuel used was 909.91L and my average fuel consumption was 9.55L/100km - At 17650km, my total fuel used was 1685.71L and my average fuel consumption was 9.55L/100km - At 29083km, my total fuel used was 2837.00L and my average fuel consumption was 9.75L/100km - At 43105km, my total fuel used was 4230.59L and my average fuel consumption was 9.81L/100km - At 64746km, my total fuel used was 6378.71L and my average fuel consumption was 9.85L/100km Fuel consumption is still increasing but still good enough for me, especially considering that at the same distance travelled with my old Sportivo SX6, I was getting 10.98L/100km.

You said "last 2 days"? Man, it seems like quite some progress for the time. But then.... I'm not so skilled as such.

Sounds to me like your VSC, because that's how I describe the sound. To confirm this, does it sound like the beeping you hear in the following video around the 1:00 mark? Video courtesy of Zeinheiger:

You have to rip it ut, most likely breaking its mounting points in the process. Just get a flat blade screwdriver and work your way around the edge of it. In all honesty, removing it is not going to give you any gain that can be measured. Air flows through the carbon filter with minimal resistance due to it's fairly open design.

Did David say good things about RedStuff? Because if not, then I am not against his wisdom. I will be getting the HP-X pads for my new rotors when I get them since I have already had good experiences with QFM. After hearing about those 334mm Stoptech rorors... I am starting to really get ideas now.

I would like to take this opportunity to direct you to the FAQ's which are pinned to the top of this forum. In that thread, you will find the following: The TOCAU Aurion FAQ