xoom

could be the gromit that is allowing ur o2 sensor to run into the car is not sitting right or has been dislodged ?

also get the extended push rod and do all the bushes and she will be sweet ......

either that but they might charge a fortune so u might try a wreckers ..... there are a few corollas on the trading post being wrecked ......

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23473&view=findpost&p=389166 read this ...... i changed my clutch to a trd + oil + longer push rod within a few months of getting the car from factory ..... so i never experienced this crunching issue ...... as per the post above was discussing it with cme-lft and it seems to have fixed his issues ...... just hope u havent ruined the syncro's bcuz then its stuff either way.

hey mate ...... firstly please dont create multiple posts asking for the same thing ..... u will simply annoy people doing that ..... also it would be useful to use the search funtion ...... using the search function here i found something i prepared earlier http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11432&st=0&p=188755entry188755 on a side note ...... the stock ecu isnt that far off from getting the afr right for a stock car ..... why the safc?

Being that u r in brissy my best suggestion for you is to purchase SD's wiring harness ..... if u were in syd the bloke that did my install & a few others for forum members could just re-wire ur stock harness for a few $'s but yeah that wouldnt be worth the trip ...... hit SD up for a harness.

for a small capacity n/a engine these mods completement the car really well .... they help with down low grunt and allow it to get moving a bit more pacey than when it was stock ...... that being said dont expect it to go from a little hot hatch to a super car overnight because of these mods ..... dont forget u need to put things into perspective so dont set the bar too high or you will be disappointed.

i think with what u bought u should be fine

Given that ur running ur car and using the fuel already i'd say that the tune of ur factory ecu is already setup to deal with what is locally available as fuel for ur country. if u do an ecu reset generally speaking it will adjust itself to what its seeing off the various sensors on ur car .... this adjustment however will be marginal as the ecu is generally limited in how much adjustment it can make as the expecation from car manufactorers is to allow a little variation but not too much .... dont forget the stock ecu is not expecting to be running anything above and beyond being stock ...... will it be the right fuel mixture .... i probably assume it wont be as u generally find car makers stick to the safe side and run stock setups a little richer than required ..... only way to get the "right" fuel mixture as u put it is to get an aftermarket ecu and get a tuner to tune it to match ur mods. i would say in terms of peak power u will see a gain of 5%-10% ..... which isnt huge but should hopefully be marginally noticeable ..... where u should notice the difference though is lower in the rev range where the car should be more driveable and not as sluggish building the revs ...... as long as ofcourse u dont go too big on the intake and not too big on the exhaust because if u do u will simply kill any performance gains.

here are my thoughts ...... if u just get a piggy back i dont think ur gonna be happy with it ..... ull end up selling it and upgrading to an ecu later on down the track ..... so might as well call a spade a spade and do it once & right from the very beginning ...... thing is the instant u started modding ur car all bets were off for saying something is too hardcore ..... u gotta just use the right stuff for the application rather than going half a.s.s.e.d and not being happy with the end result

he could just add a safe guard setup to the PFC http://www.jandssafeguard.com/

hey mate, dont waste ur time with this ..... vtec and vvtli mechanisms are totally different. in all the reading ive done guys have not got this going on celicas in the US for years so i wouldnt even try. Get urself a PFC if your after a tuning alternative. Bill

i think that was me ..... running late for work .... lol ..... did u spot the colour of the front grille by any chance ? nah i didnt.. it was going to fast and i was walking to slow LOL it was heading towards hill st tho.. i was walking to the CBA building. nope wasnt me then ..... thats too far up Aust Ave for where i was travelling that morning ...... funny i must have missed that stivo by a matter of mins as well .... lol

lol ..... mate its the smiling assassin ;) ;) ;) ;)

the fuel efficiency is not too bad actually ..... i had the guys spend a lot of time when tuning the light loads when it was on the dyno ..... so when i drive around normally and not up it i can get 550-600 km's on a full tank ..... if i boot it around the efficiency obviously drops but i have not seen it get any worse than about 13 or so L per 100km i think ...... i might have had 1 tank get as bad as 15L / 100kms but like i said thats unusual ..... pretty efficient for a boosted car ;)

if you get a 90 degree bend silicone hose with the size of the pipe and filter in mind u can cut the corner of the bend up and clamp it to the CAI pipe to bend the filter away from the foggie. This is what i did when i was running a trd cai. on a filter selection perspective i really loved the ITG filter on my stivo ..... sounded awesome and performed well.

when i was running a oem setup in the caliper department i was running ferodo ds2500's and dba4000 rotors. was an excellent combo for the stivo

i think that was me ..... running late for work .... lol ..... did u spot the colour of the front grille by any chance ?

ah yes ..... top of page 3 .... sorry my mistake ......

ok so that code im pretty sure means P0171 - System To Lean (bank 1 ) that to me sounds like maybe the extra air ur getting into the system is not being catered for by ur maf or maybe that u have a leak from somewhere ..... now as has previously been suggested go get ur car dynoed and get the air/fuel ratio on the sheet and if it appears to be fine then just ignore it ?????? now mind u i read many many many posts from other forums regarding this error and spotted lots of people spend lots of cash to fix it only to not get it sorted ..... if ur really worried then ur best bet might be to resort to stock until a solution can be found if ever found .... has anyone of you guys actually tried to contact injen to see what they have to say for themselves ? here is a good read to show u how annoying this issue is gonna get http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9206 you will also notice a few ppl have continued to drive their cars as their option.

i love how toyota's lack of technical support works ..... lol ..... we'll just replace the whole manifold .... that will fix it ..... hey atleast they havent pulled out the zip ties and tried to convince u that they can solve ur issue with them ...... by any chance can they give u a code or ecu error .... something that we could use to work from ..... generally a CEL is also accompanied by an error code ..... that would go a long way into trying to work out if its something major or minor thats the issue .... i mean could be a simple as a dud sensor somewhere .... u just dont know ............ dont get so worked up and upset by this ..... this is the joys of modifying a car ;)

i bought mine from strathfield car radio's when i needed it ..... do you guys have these shops in qld ?

installed a wideband 02 sensor and related gauge for some accurate afr readings while driving ..... tested it out last night driving it out ..... looks good ..... and seems to be accurate ..... just need to work out how to mount it where i want it to stick ..... will post pics later

its not that bad when im running on new tyres ..... but not dodgy new tyres i mean the high end stuff ..... but when the tyres get on a bit like after 15k kms or so when ever i give it a boot it tends to light them up ..... also helps that i usually drive around on my low boost setting of 1 bar aka 14.7 psi rather than 1.5 bar 21ish psi which is what produces this power ..... that being said though if i ever want to peeve someone off and flutter the bov in their window for sh.1ts and giggles i keep it on high boost ;) ;) ;) ;) as it is as simple as pushing the magic yellow button ;) (see pic below)

LOL ..... and here i was thinking man how coincidental that someone else pushed the same power figures as i did ..... lol