Taka

Press the left dial on the screen. That will get you to the sound menu. Bottom left has a button named "sound" press that. You can only adjust treble, middle, and base. HID is not quite right for halogen casings. I am more than happy with the result of the bulb change. There won't be TRD Japan stuff since there is no equivalent model in Japan. USA TRD is pretty crap.

I post something, which is very interesting and worth opening another thread. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=16547

I guess I open another thread because I have found something very interesting about our Kluger. Firstly I introduce my kit to measure the speed data of the car. (click for large pics) The left is the bluetooth GPS receiver (Qstarz BT-818 extreme). This is one of the best we can get without breaking my bank. This unit contains a 5Hz MTK chipset and can sample a GPS location every 0.2 sec. So it is 5 times as fast as my Toyota Grande navi system. The right is the new toy , and it is called OBDkey. OBD (on board diagnositc) system is used in all fuel injection cars. The unit can be used to see if any error code from the car recorded in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU, aka the brain of the car). It can show loads of data from the ECU, including real speed from the wheel (OBD speed), rpm, throttle position, fuel trim, timing advance, coolant temp, intake temp, catalyst temp etc etc etc. And the key is not Toyota or any car specific (work in 99% of cars :) ) I use both to work with my Nokia N95, using a program called racechrono.com. It was a cold night (6 degree) so the power will not be as good, so I ditched the idea of setting the best 0-100 times. The above three graphs show the most revelant data in terms of the real speed that ECU recorded. Ignore the top lines in the first picture. I did a long run from 0-100 so I can match some nice figure. What you can see: The PURPLE line is the OBD/ECU speed, while the YELLOW line is GPS speed Observations 1. OBD shows speed updates in a very very slow rate (The OBDkey able to get 4Hz data, or 4 times a sec, but Toyota ECU can only give 2Hz at most ) 2. The OBD speed is VERY close to the GPS speed. In fact, the OBD speed is LOWER than "real" GPS speed 90% of the time. When ECU is showing 60kmh, GPS is also 60; but when ECU is 97 kmh, GPS is already 99.9 kmh! <_< :o BUT!!! :o 3. When the needle of the speedometer on the dash is just right to the 100kmh mark (as said by RiceRacing that is the "real" 100kph). The OBD/ECU speed is only 92kmh and GPS is 93kmh!!!!!!! Conclusion: Kluger Odometer analysis: ECU speed is very close and possibly slightly lower than real GPS recorded speed. And the error shown is mainly on the needle on the dash. Is there any solution? Yes you can put a OBD display gauge in the car and use the speedo on it, but you have to realise they are very accurate and you have no margin for error (in terms of speeding)! BTW: This is my try hard run for 0-100. Sometimes the OBD or the GPS lacks and create an error in timing, but looking at the graph, I am actually doing a 7.92 sec !

Rice! Any advance of your time? Found the Mobil 1 0W-40. Expensive! $96 for 5L. Did you say we need 6L or something? :o Is that worth near $120 of change every 6 month for that 0.2 sec <_< I just for OBD scanner, I can mix both and get a better time!

Yes the ADR has too much allowance, No under call is a must because of the current police monitoring climate <_<. Got one of these OBD scanner thingy I am going to do a few 0-100 and I will do them slowly to match the GPS speed, so I can plot a graph.

Good choice of Diesel. Vauxhall diesel has good review in the UK. Yeah the inaccuracy is mainly due to the fuel tank and the fuel pump, so don't stress about it.

Yes, that is the question I have too. It is software not hardware.... it may be a policy thing. Very annoying.

nerdygril, GPS is most accurate, esp the one that log on to more than 4 satellates. It is used in many racing instruments to measure lap times. The ONLY down side of GPS is start up (detecting the exact moment of the car starts moving). So 0-100kmh testing is still measured by the ECU data.

BlackAdder, Firstly welcome. Let me elaborate how I think the computer caluation is superior than the old fuel up calculation method. <_< The computer data gather the figures from fuel trim and calculation of the duty cycle (jargon there). In layman term, they will estimate the amount of fuel being put into the engine at the time. The speed and time travelled at the same time will be recorded by the ECU. Then a trick of calculation and you will have the average fuel consumption. Now, the variables here are being the fuel being deliver and the distance travel. The fuel part is very accurate since the amount of fuel put in is pre-determined by the computer and that is, hopefully, the amount being put in the camber. The distance covered, however, could be out since our speedo is out of tune, experienced by most of us here. On the contary, our very user friendly method of using filling up to the top volume divided by the amount travelled indicated by the Odometer have some inherited flaws. Firstly, unless you are using the same pump at the same time. The amount that "you think you have used" since the last filled up may not be accurate. Because you have no way to know you have filled to the exact same level. A litre or so out over 400km will give you a 0.25L/100km different. And how many times we shake the car and put in another 3-4L in the tank . Secondly, you also use the highly accurate odometer of our Kluger to measure the distance (which has the same inaccuracy from the computer)..... After all the above verbral diarrhoea on my part, I think I have to recommend you sticking with the computer and save your time doing the calculation. And hence, asking how many kilometers per tank is out of fashion statement. Hopefully I did not offend and have faith in the system provided. I hope all cars should have one of our computer.

No no no Keep the traction control on! It is first develop in Europe for the snow! I think you can get away with traction control with chains on? I will keep the traction control on until I cannot get moving because of it. Snow button, D, and drive carefully.

face to feet? It sounds like it is going onto a hot air cycle. There is something going on in the thermostat. Get it check out.

2011 is an election year?????

I can't find my handbrake... anyway, the P is hold by a pin. If the service guy asks you again to use a pin to hold a 2 tonne car. Record it, I will email them to all the Toyota's service department and get him laughed at. I cannot believe someone is so naive.

Nice story fish. As long as you don't brake when left and right wheel having different grip. You will be fine. For interest, does the traction control activate at all?

Yum :) I will not let the CEO know that the car is electric and I come to work early to get the parking spot closest to the socket....

Luxury is something that you should not bitch about. :P

Oh ok.. thanks for the advice. Have thought of some of your points b4. May be wise to invest in a small diesel car like the Golf TDi for work then.

Taking out spare is not quite the ideal situation. If run-flat tyre is available for Kluger size that it will be interesting I am keen on it, although $5K installed hmmm....

Have 7 in the car really (3 of them are babies)

How much lesser!?

????? Why you need that much air. I never felt the air because I don't turn it up. Cannot help you sorry.

Considering we have the same engine, you guys should state what fuel you use as well. In Kluger, I get under 14L/100km city driving on 95 RON and it will be 16L+ on 91 RON. I am consistently using 95 RON now and the consumption is as good as 10-11L/100km on 50% highway.

Something is even better if you have a palm or Windows mobile. It is called OBD key and it can blue tooth the data to the machine so it is wireless. I am going to get one for track timing and recording the rev at the same time, coolant temp etc.

Hmmm Mine is different and the cover plastic is not body colour.... The electric socket mount does not look like that either. Otherwise, the tongue and the socket itself look the same

Some gusty tail wind there... I found headwind will damage the fuel consumption on highway, as one way is 12L/100km and the other 8L/100km going from Geelong and back