Eargunk

Does anyone know where i can get a digital voltmeter that attachs to my power cable (0awg) just liike the ones on a capacitor that doesnt have a fuse in it. or one that will suit as a t junction or splitter, 0awg to 3x 4awg? I know jaycar has some but it has a built in fuse.

i took about 5 hours doing the whole thing including my head unit (i knew what i was doing), usually 30 minutes to strip the car (removing air filter for better reach, side panels, removing all the rubbish inside, flipping the carpet). but i suggest taking like a long saturday to make sure everythign is correct (took me 20 minutes to relise that the rca wasnt plugged in... when out and got new speaker cables...) I was working with a friend, one person attached the amp, did teh grounding and the other did the hot wire (positive from the battery) so pretty much 1/2 a day to do it right. paseos are pretty easy to pull apart and having small cables will help aswell.

Sorry for back tracking, but that prelude, 2 blondes (according to my friend) came out of it when they drove it up there, they circled the round about so it didnt have any ripped and chipped gutter on the round about, and were you that guy with the camera phone when you took it you smiled whilst previewing it? It was apparently stolen (was in carpark of teh driving range)

i ran 4awg of hot wire through my whole car, after a while i bought a new amp and decided to go 0awg and was hell annoying ripping out everything again. If you have any plans to do this, i suggest do it straight off and go for a large wire, saves you the time of ripping everything out (i had to take all my neons out too, 2 day job) and make sure you run the hot wire (the one from your battery) and remote wire on the opposite side of your RCA. I ran my hot wire on the left side of my car cause the battery is on the left side, and on the left side of the fire wall (in the front passanger side) there is a rubber stopper that leads straight into the cabin, i poked a hole and stuck it through and ran it all under the side panel/guard of the car under the plastic of the b pillar and up the side of the rear seats and under the rear seat support (the pole that lets your rear seat swing down (this part i forgot to do the first time), and the same with your RCA but on the right side. make sure they dont cross or it creates distortion (large electrical cables create a magnetic field and alters the signal through rca cables)

Hehehe bad luck to him, its from the same guys with the soft suspensions down the lion's back where the fronts just keep jumping

to add to the post above, you also get a rectangular filter with the component/splits and if you run cables from your amp, it goes to a filter (attaches with screw plates, so you dont have to solder it to the speaker like the coaxial speakers) but you still have to solder from the filter to the woofer/tweeters. the filter divides up the frequency betweens speakers giving a more clean sound where as coaxial speakers can have frequencies passed to the tweeters or woofer where it cant place (i use to have the head unit run the rears without a filter way before i started boosting my audio, it played subwoofer tones and gave a crackling noise. Normally expensive splits fronts, coaxial at back, unless you have alot of money. Oh one more thing. battery is important if you get a subwoofer in the future, having one over 500cca would be nice. it reduces the stress put onto your alternator. peferably deep cycle (lets you place without starting the engine, i ran mine at a party (next to some highway ages from anyone) for 3 hours at a pretty high volume. got a police warning too...)

queensland

It really depends on your car, not sure what a corolla can hold, but generally its good expensive speakers at front, and cheap ones at back (for the passangers) focal has speakers that fit straight into factory stock doors, i had to fibreglass pods to fit it into my car (spr-17ls) because the magnet is bigger than the hole in the door. (if it was me, i would bridge 2 channels to make it 100rms for the fronts and get cheap backs running off the head unit for the backs, or just have fronts) - why good Front speakers? ----> why do rock bands and concerts have their speakers up in front and not at back? hmmmmmmmmmm.

IMO, im not getting window tint because when you smash in windows, its more quiet and removes in 1 piece or sheet, and the term "if its dark there is something to hide". Thats what i learned at uni hehehe, and i live in a bad side of town. but what would be nice is the pearlecent tints, not sure where i can get em.

I got mine for about 420 (i think rrp was 500 or something, cant remember but i saved about 100$), but i would go to jbhifi or something and say "northfield (or any other place) is selling it for me for 420, can you beat it? and they would usually say, i only can drop to so and so, and you say, ill think about it and come back later on (so it doesnt look suspicious). with your amp, it really depends on your speakers, if their factory, dont even bother, but aftermarket, its better to have one than not have one (head unit puts out 12rms compared to an amps 50rms, a cheap one that is). I would go for the Mrp-f600 (its better to over power your amp than to under power it, it puts less stress on the amp resulting in less heat built up on it. but if you got money, grab a PDX PDX: Underrated amp (it says 100rms but the True rms is 140) Less heat build up stackable Compact in size V-power: Cost effective Amp is genuine 100rms if rated (true rms would about higher than 100rms and not lower (alpine doesnt lie about their amps, this resulted in their recall of MRP-M2000s) heat builds up more compared to PDX, slightly big.

Hey mate, I spent ALOT of money on my audio system, mostly type r's and its so loud the plastic falls off on the c pillars but still has excellent sound quality, alpine is Sound quality based compared to kickers or digital design SPL based. Okay with your system i would run http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Soundstream-PCX...oQQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Pioneer-TS-A6992R-6...1742.m153.l1262 and your fronts. The amp runs 80rms to all speakers, just with the fronts you just gotta turn the gain a tad below norm. just a heads up the amp may heat up pretty quick (usually happens with cheap amps, really cheap). I recommend getting the a6992R because its got a wider frequency range (but if you get a subwoofer just get good fronts and a nice 2 channel amp) dont forget to buy a cable set (cheap cable sets off ebay, the 30$ ones have alot of plastic and not much cable wire. a little test i tried which made it heat up and slightly melt, i was bored and tried it on my spare amps) Its better to run an amp so its more clear and can get louder than running without one But thats my opinion.

Im thinking of reviving a car that has been sitting in the back yard for a while (totally forgot about it due to commitments, moving houses, education etc), its turbo charged and i know i have to replace the fuel to get it started (only clicks when ignition is turned), is there anything else i should clean out or check before i get driving to my new house? And since it doesnt have a battery is it worth buying a red/yellow top battery or just one off the shelf at super cheap?

i tried it on small dents, it doesnt work...

Finally a day it didn't rain. and its finished covered and all, here is it completely sanded down and after the carpet placed over the top ( i experimented with 2 ways of applying where one was placing it over the top like a table cloth and the other is wrapping it around and gluing where im going to place not over all of it at once) found that wrapping it around reduces ridges or fold overs (a cut as you go process)

i pmed you some info about northfield at moorooka and the guy i know there and also the RRP for the woofer you ahve is $499, my friend ordered one but found out it didnt fit in his car so they swapped it to a sealed box. so you dont have to order it in (like other places...), it will be on the display floor good as new and never used. it was a 1 week wait from the time you do your deposit till you get it in your hand. oh and they also tune your headunit and amps for free compared to other places that just let you do it yourself. Alpine is renowned for sound quality (tight fast bass, still goes loud) where as kicker is SPL (woofer wise) which is less tight but still sounds great, may have "bass lag" when you play fast deep techno (jump style or whatever), maybe fixed with the right headunit or programing depending on the woofer set up you got (sealed = tight and clear, ported/vented = louder/boomier). when i got my woofer system (cables, 2 woofers, 2 sealed boxes and mono block) it costed me 1.1k where its RRP is 1.7k i think, cant remember.

one of my friends said "ill never be addicted to wow" and went to uni and such, once he touched the expansion, he deferred from uni and only have 1 shift a week (3 hours maximum/minimum) and practically lives on that computer chair. and does want to go clubbing, meets, dinner, party or anything, something really sad was he spent new years on wow.... whilst i was out with the friends.

There are so many clips of that on youtube, i mean loads, ive seen one where the car jumps the rollers and almost crushes the guy against a wall

metal flexes when there is a huge temperature change, you could also jst use dry ice (regular ice isnt cold enough) and put it over the top on a hot day. Just love that squelching noise when you do it

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/501379/remov...with_airduster/ Simple science of cooling fast and cool

spotted Red paseo near regents park with a non stock exhaust, very clean cut

the optima is expecially built for car audio, works fine under vibration, stress and other things (like less random discharge so its a constant voltage so you dont sometimes have louds at volume 7 and quiet the next day at the same volume) that car audio hits ya and is leak proof, so pretty much go any angle or position you like (except upside down, not a good idea...). Another thing is make sure you have the measurements for the max size you can fit in your car. i had to cut the plate it was sitting on and modify the air filter to fit my battery.

it also depends on how hard you sub can take, personally i would get a optima yellow top (cause im a audio nut) and is about $400 or more that is 700cca but something over 400cca (anything deep cycle so you dont have to start the engine to listen to it) would be fine IMO. im currently running 2 amps with a 660cca deep cycle marine battery, works fine and has teh potential to have another amp or 2 hooked up.

hehe sweet golf attachment to them hehe. and he always has to do a cool pose at the end of each hit. Just love that golf attachment.

i skipped it forward so i was like what the..... Sounded really nice, and shaking teh camera made it even more hilarious

I reckon it was funny when fifth gear used the robin in drifiting comp, one had sleds and the other one didnt ahve anything, since its a 3 wheeler, one of em flipped. The best thing ive seen the top gear guys make was the car made out of house machinery (mostly dryers and washing machines) it went backwards and forwards and had tuble dryer wheels.