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ZR6 Speaker Upgrade


DKzr6

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The Auto Level setting finally came back. I guess this happens after you put it in drive or something.

I haven't disconnected the front tweets yet as i want the front soundstage and for that they need to be up high. What i did do is disconnect the middle driver (midrange?) in the front Eclipses as these were making the most amount of annoying frequencies. I might swap the dash tweeters for silk dome units or attenuate them a little.

I do need to fade out the rears too as they are way too bright. It's a shame really as i though those Eclipse speakers were the bee's knees.

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I thought i would pop up some pictures of how mine worked out.. (Thanks to my brother Duane for helping me fabricate the pods)

Front Pod & Baffle

post-5278-1205151796_thumb.jpg

Front Pod & Baffle Mounted

post-5278-1205151902_thumb.jpg

Front Pod & Baffle with Speaker Mounted

post-5278-1205151960_thumb.jpg

Rear Pods with Speaker Mounted

post-5278-1205152006_thumb.jpg

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Need some help. I purchased a pair of Boston Acoustic 6x9's S953 for the front of the car, however after pulling the panels off I find that its going to be a very tight fit even with a baffle. The speakers midrange and tweeter stick out of the woofer making the overall depth about 11cms. The distance from the glass to the speaker cover on the door panel is only about 5mm bigger, if that.

Im thinking of installing these speakers in the rear, and purchasing some MB Quart entry level 6x9's for the front as they are about 9cm overall from bottom of magnet to top of speaker.

My question is, do you guys think the boston's would fit in the rear? Is the depth bigger in the back? I know you mentioned the springs in the back. If distance between the spring and the parcel shelf speaker cover is even 1cm bigger than the front, i should be able to fit them in.

thanks.

Edited by emalio
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Need some help. I purchased a pair of Boston Acoustic 6x9's S953 for the front of the car, however after pulling the panels off I find that its going to be a very tight fit even with a baffle. The speakers midrange and tweeter stick out of the woofer making the overall depth about 11cms. The distance from the glass to the speaker cover on the door panel is only about 5mm bigger, if that.

Im thinking of installing these speakers in the rear, and purchasing some MB Quart entry level 6x9's for the front as they are about 9cm overall from bottom of magnet to top of speaker.

My question is, do you guys think the boston's would fit in the rear? Is the depth bigger in the back? I know you mentioned the springs in the back. If distance between the spring and the parcel shelf speaker cover is even 1cm bigger than the front, i should be able to fit them in.

thanks.

I think you will be pushing it to fit the Boston's in. You will need to make pods but at that depth the speaker will probably lean on the parcel shelf and may prevent it being reinstalled properly. The MB Quartz have huge magnets on them and this is why i didn't opt for these. Why not stick some 6.5" Splits up front (replace the factory tweeter) and something slimmer at the rear. There isn't a lot of room in the back.

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I Just purchased a pair of Focal 690 CA1 6x9's for up front, they are almost 2cm shorter than the bostons. This easter weekend Im gonna give it a crack and try and install the speakers, If I cant fit them I'll just get a refund. The reason I dont want to put splits up front is because I'll most likely want a sub. I have MB quart Q series 6.5 inch splits in my supra, and without the subs on, they dont provide any bass.

I listened to many 6x9's, Mb quart, boston, rockford fosgate, jbl and many more . The MB quart dont sound the same as they once did, They were bought out by rockford fosgate a few years ago, and now by maxxsonics. Yesterday I listened to the $199 pair of Focal 6x9's and man was I blown away by the quality for such a low price. Highly Recommended to anyone looking for 6x9's. I just hope they fit. Bought the bostons for $137 cost price because my cousin works at lifestyle store, unfortunately lifestyle store dont sell focal.

thanks for your advice and information. I'll let you know how I go.

Edited by emalio
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I have a zr6 iam planning to upgrade my speakers to could you please post or pm me if possible more detailed intructions on to remove the door panels and back parcel shelf thanks

Might pay to tell us where you are and perhaps a member can help you, otherwise it will be like writing a novel.

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Just to clarify,

What are they original speaker sizes ?

Front: 6" x 9"

Rear: 6" x 9"

Tweeters: ?

--------EDIT--------

6x9's all round . . . read the first post again :)

Edited by Danos
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  • 4 weeks later...

Guys,

Just for your information i have done extensive testing with different speakers in both the front and rear of the stock Aurion and thought i would put up my results to anyone looking at upgrading the speakers in the Aurion.

Speakers tested are all 6x9 in size (includes fitting and SQ).

Eclipse SE-8495

DLS Classic - 960

DLS Classic - 269

Hertz - DCX690

Jaycar - CS2378

Alpine - SPE-69C3

Alpine - SPR-69C

Eclipse SE8495 - With pods these speakers fit perfectly in both the front doors and rear parcel shelf. There is plenty of clearance for the boot springs and rear parcel shelf cover. Sound wise they are very bright speakers so you may need to reduce your treble settings. After the run in period they produce plenty of bass notes however they are a little harsh to the ears.

Great for the money or a simple and cost affective speaker upgrade.

DLS Classic 960 - Fantastic built speaker. Fantastic sound. The quality of the treble is amazing and is the best sounding of all in this test. The bass is extremeley well controlled and punchy. These speakers will only fit the front doors as the tweeter/mid assemble stands too high so the rear parcel shelf plastic cover rest on the top and cannot be secured. The magnets are large and as such sit just 2mm away from the boot springs.

Expensive but worth every penny.

DLS Classic 269 - Fantastic built speaker. Good sound. The quality of the treble is good but not as pronounced as the 960's. The bass is also good but lacks the deep punch of the 960's. These speakers will only fit the front doors as the tweeter/mid assemble stands too high so the rear parcel shelf plastic cover rest on the top and cannot be secured. The magnets are large and as such sit just 5mm away from the boot springs.

Excellent speaker and good value.

Hertz - DCX690 - In a word, horrible. These speakers produce sound that is right in your face. So much so i pulled them out faster then i put them in! If your looking for SPL and not SQL these speakers are for you. The good aspect of the speakers is that they fit the front and back with ease. They are very lightweight and have small magnets with orange protection rubbers around it. The basket size is a tad larger then normal 6x9's so be mindful of this.

Very dissapointing. Would not buy.

Jaycar - CS2378 - These speakers produce a tinny treble that is harsh, not smooth as with the DLS units tested. There also seems to be a big hole in the frequency output to which it does not produce in the mid bass area. Whilst the tweeters are adjustable they simply do not adjust enough to warrant this feature. They have large magnets but fit into the front doors easily and just scrape in at the rear.

Reasonable speaker. For the same price much better can be sourced.

Alpine - SPE-69C3 - These are speakers best left back at the shop. The quality of these speakers is not as good as the DLS and the sound mirrors this. If you love the Alpine brand and do not want a amplifier then this is all your going to get. They do fit the front and with the additional work can be made to fir the rear but i advise against these speakers. There isn't a quality sound from them.

Forget it - Buy another brand.

Alpine - SPR-69C - These speakers sound great in both the treble and bass departments but unless your going to run these off an amplifier it's best to leave these at the shop. Size wise they will only fit in the front and by such small margins that any tolerance in the vehicle manufacturing process or your woodwork could render these as unsuitable.

Big speaker, Big price. Amp required.

Conclusion.

I recommend building your own custom pods, adding some Stinger Roadkill (or equivelent), sticking on some sound pads and installing the DLS-960's up front and the Eclipse SE-8495 in the rears. This combination produces a fantastic sound from the front with very crisp treble and vocal quality as well as great bass without distortion. The Eclipse provide good bass in the rear and are a cinch to install. As the tweeter/mid combo are low into the driver itself there is no contact with the parcel shelf cover and no contact equals no rattles.

The above combination of speakers is what i now have in installed in my Aurion and i am very happy with the results. The blend between the front and rear speakers is perfect with the balance control at Zero. In fact the DLS-960s sound so sweet and natural both bass and treble controls are also set at Zero which could not be done with the Eclipse SE-8495's all round. Certainly a recommended combination if your looking at upgrading your OEM speakers anytime soon.

Cheers,

BlueAurionSX6

Edited by BlueAurionSX6
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lolz.. i have never imagine someone who do this intense.. What HU did u used? What amp? What kind of wiring? These has to be taken into consideration too~ Also, all speakers needs different tuning, how did u tune it? Flat? +1? -2? All NEW speakers have to run for at least 5 hours to make it sounds 'normal'?

HU makes the BIGGEST differences.. i have to say.

I wont give any comment on just only speaker itself, but with consideration with that they are using the same settings(whole system) and a little tuning..

Did u heard them from different cars?

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Perhaps i didn't make myself clear enough (even though i did!)

All these speakers were tested in my Aurion using the stock Head Unit. As mentioned in the post its a reference for speaker upgrades in Aurions, nothing more, nothing less.

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BlueAurionSX6: you're a legend.. thats a GREAT review... well done... :toast:

i'll be looking at upgrading the speakers soonish... so thanks HEAPS.. :)

i was thinking of going a set of focal slims 6.5" splits up the front and then some normal 6x9s in the rear and then a 10/12" sub in the boot with an amp... but maybe i should go your setup and then if the bass isnt enough, i can add the amp/sub later... :unsure:

what do you think?

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Speakers do more of an impact than changing the HU but not speakers,

I have the Eclipses all round running off the Kenwood HU, but I will be getting a 4ch amp to power these as they are getting ripped by the SoloBaric Sub. I like a combination of SPL and SQ thru my cabin speakers so i'll definately looking to push the 6x9's to their rms range

Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

Edited by AcoustiK
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Speakers do more of an impact than changing the HU but not speakers,

I have the Eclipses all round running off the Kenwood HU, but I will be getting a 4ch amp to power these as they are getting ripped by the SoloBaric Sub. I like a combination of SPL and SQ thru my cabin speakers so i'll definately looking to push the 6x9's to their rms range

Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

I'll make the measurement for you tonight. We did make the pods using two different thickness pieces of MDF, the bottom pod is the shape of the factory unit and the top baffle is mounted to the pod and is the same shape as a 6x9 speaker but slightly larger. Even though it took a while to make (8 cutouts) the end result was an absolute perfect fitment.

We are contemplating making up a swag of the pod kits for members if people don't have woodworking skills or aren't keen doing it themselves.

Edited by BlueAurionSX6
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BlueAurionSX6: you're a legend.. thats a GREAT review... well done... :toast:

i'll be looking at upgrading the speakers soonish... so thanks HEAPS.. :)

i was thinking of going a set of focal slims 6.5" splits up the front and then some normal 6x9s in the rear and then a 10/12" sub in the boot with an amp... but maybe i should go your setup and then if the bass isnt enough, i can add the amp/sub later... :unsure:

what do you think?

If your intention is to put a sub in then you probably should just install the splits up the front otherwise you will need to make new pods again if you aren't happy. But you will also need to sound deaden the inner and outer skin of your front doors with Stinger Roadkill (or similar). You should also high pass the rears at around 120hz to 150hz when you install the sub to avoid cancellation.

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yeah cool... thanks for the advice...

my days of squeezing under seats and in uncomfortable positions in cars is well and truely over... :lol:

i just pay people to do it for me... :ph34r:

yes, i've become VERY VERY lazy when it comes to working on my car...

hell, something as simple as removing the air box resonator still hasnt been done on the car cause i'm lazy... lol

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Speakers do more of an impact than changing the HU but not speakers,

I have the Eclipses all round running off the Kenwood HU, but I will be getting a 4ch amp to power these as they are getting ripped by the SoloBaric Sub. I like a combination of SPL and SQ thru my cabin speakers so i'll definately looking to push the 6x9's to their rms range

Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

I'll make the measurement for you tonight. We did make the pods using two different thickness pieces of MDF, the bottom pod is the shape of the factory unit and the top baffle is mounted to the pod and is the same shape as a 6x9 speaker but slightly larger. Even though it took a while to make (8 cutouts) the end result was an absolute perfect fitment.

We are contemplating making up a swag of the pod kits for members if people don't have woodworking skills or aren't keen doing it themselves.

Thanks mate!

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Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

We made 2 spacers, first one 16mm and the other 9mm. The 16mm spacer is the cutout of the original speaker mount and the other is slighter larger then the new speaker and both pieces are glued and screwed together to make a one piece pod. There is also weather strip material on both sides to stop rattles etc and then the entire spacer is sealed in the car.

post-5278-1208948453_thumb.jpg

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Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

We made 2 spacers, first one 16mm and the other 9mm. The 16mm spacer is the cutout of the original speaker mount and the other is slighter larger then the new speaker and both pieces are glued and screwed together to make a one piece pod. There is also weather strip material on both sides to stop rattles etc and then the entire spacer is sealed in the car.

You didn't make a template for the pods/speaker mounts did you ?

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You didn't make a template for the pods/speaker mounts did you ?

I still have the mdf with the cutouts in it.. These could be used as a template.

Do you think you could trace the cutouts on paper and post them. I wouldn't mind at least making the mounts before I pull the doors apart just to reduce the time the car is in peices. Did you trim and further after you cut them out ? Obviously the speaker cutout is dependant on what speakers I use . . . Also - are there any electrical connectors I'd need to buy to match the existing speaker cable connectors or are they just spade connectors to the speakers?

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