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The STUPID thread


theDefiant1

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I was thinking of this one...

AEM Wideband

Or can you recommend one that would be right for the set-up i am currently running?

Evo

I personally am a big fan of the zeitronix system i have... but that might not suit your needs.

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm

What i need is something that can run on the factory sensor

Evo

there is no such thing man.

the factory sensor is a narrowband sensor and is completely useless for tuning or monitoring afr's.

you want a wideband sensor to monitor afr's/tune with.

they are completely different sensors.

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Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up?

It depends what you're tuning it for. Crudely, a properly constructed CAI will maximise the velocity of the incoming air and take advantage of resonance effects without being restrictive at high rpm (at least, over the effective range of the engine). The SRI will almost certainly not be restrictive at high rpm, but is not necessarily the best design for optimising power output throughout the rpm range. It's an empirical question and ultimately a matter of trade-off.

People on the interwebs often think that any setup is better than that which comes from the factory, as if by default. In most cases, physical principles never enter into their minds.

My stupid question time... the crank pulley is a PITA to get to in order to turn the #1 piston to TDC. Is it alright if I turn the much more easily accessable alternator pulley instead to achieve this, or do I risk breaking/wearing something out?

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Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up?

It depends what you're tuning it for. Crudely, a properly constructed CAI will maximise the velocity of the incoming air and take advantage of resonance effects without being restrictive at high rpm (at least, over the effective range of the engine). The SRI will almost certainly not be restrictive at high rpm, but is not necessarily the best design for optimising power output throughout the rpm range. It's an empirical question and ultimately a matter of trade-off.

People on the interwebs often think that any setup is better than that which comes from the factory, as if by default. In most cases, physical principles never enter into their minds.

My stupid question time... the crank pulley is a PITA to get to in order to turn the #1 piston to TDC. Is it alright if I turn the much more easily accessable alternator pulley instead to achieve this, or do I risk breaking/wearing something out?

if its on your celica its not that difficult to get to.

Pull the drivers side wheel off, and then get a 19mm(i think) socket and put it on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, then turn it..

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if its on your celica its not that difficult to get to.

Pull the drivers side wheel off, and then get a 19mm(i think) socket and put it on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, then turn it..

Yeah, it's strictly not that hard, but if there's an easier way I'm all for it. I think one would also need to take off the RH engine cover to gain access, which in my case was bolted on partly underneath the LH. Just a bit of a hassle.

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Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up?

It depends what you're tuning it for. Crudely, a properly constructed CAI will maximise the velocity of the incoming air and take advantage of resonance effects without being restrictive at high rpm (at least, over the effective range of the engine). The SRI will almost certainly not be restrictive at high rpm, but is not necessarily the best design for optimising power output throughout the rpm range. It's an empirical question and ultimately a matter of trade-off.

People on the interwebs often think that any setup is better than that which comes from the factory, as if by default. In most cases, physical principles never enter into their minds.

well i want it for induction noise and same or more torque down low, cuz with the hot air especially in summer i dont want to feel like a slug from lights

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if its on your celica its not that difficult to get to.

Pull the drivers side wheel off, and then get a 19mm(i think) socket and put it on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, then turn it..

Yeah, it's strictly not that hard, but if there's an easier way I'm all for it. I think one would also need to take off the RH engine cover to gain access, which in my case was bolted on partly underneath the LH. Just a bit of a hassle.

engine cover? mine doesn't have any sort of engine covers...

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well i want it for induction noise and same or more torque down low, cuz with the hot air especially in summer i dont want to feel like a slug from lights

In that case, I would be leaning towards the CAI. As to whether your setup will be effective in achieving your aims, it's difficult to say without knowing more about it. It will probably make more noise than stock, but simply changing the size/shape/materials of the tubing does not necessarily mean more torque.

But by no means am I an expert on the subject, I'm not an engineer. I'm trying to design a proper one for my Celi, but I'm still learning.

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engine cover? mine doesn't have any sort of engine covers...

Really? You don't have a couple of big, black plastic covers bolted onto the chassis underneath your engine?

that would be a splash guard, and nope don't have any of them

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My stupid question time... the crank pulley is a PITA to get to in order to turn the #1 piston to TDC. Is it alright if I turn the much more easily accessable alternator pulley instead to achieve this, or do I risk breaking/wearing something out?

Not having worked on your model Celica I can't say if it is applicable, but just remove any under panels, slap a socket and breaker bar on the nut for the crank pully and turn slowly clockwise (so you don't actually loosen the nut).

I guess another option is to rotate via the flywheel by removing the gearbox :lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, stupid question from me:

Provided both materials have the same resistance to air flow, with the attached photo below, which air filter would provide better flow.

General knowledge would lead me to think the one on the left (Ryco) simply due to the greater surface area that it appears to have, but is there something I am not factoring in that may make the one on the right (Toyota Genuine Denso) a better option.

dsc05460s.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

My stupid question:

How much does a set of 4 or 5 corolla sportivo rims worth?

Provided they are in good condition.

Thank in advance.

D35

Edit: I should put "stock" stivo rims!

Edited by D35
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My stupid question:

How much does a set of 4 or 5 corolla sportivo rims worth?

Provided they are in good condition.

Thank in advance.

D35

When i originally bought mine off someone on here, they were only $400 when i purchased them, and in superb condition :D

Evo

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Okay, stupid question from me:

Provided both materials have the same resistance to air flow, with the attached photo below, which air filter would provide better flow.

General knowledge would lead me to think the one on the left (Ryco) simply due to the greater surface area that it appears to have, but is there something I am not factoring in that may make the one on the right (Toyota Genuine Denso) a better option.

dsc05460s.jpg

I never did fluid dynamics or mechanical engineering, but I'll give it a go. Hopefully I can learn something too.

Your engine has a volumetric efficiency V. The question is which filter reduces the V the least. The filter that does this will be the one that has the smallest pressure drop between the atmosphere and the intake plenum. Since P (pressure) = F (force) / A (area) and the force is 'fixed', when A increases, F / A becomes smaller, hence P is reduced. Therefore, the filter with the smallest surface area - other things being equal - will give the smallest pressure drop and least reduction in V.

That said, the smallest pressure drop does not necessarily give the best performance for the application. If by reducing the pressure you can increase the velocity of the incoming air without starving the engine, you may improve performance over a different rpm range. The only way to determine what's best is to do a few dyno runs with each and hope for a statistically significant difference between them. Since that would probably be prohibitively expensive and it's unlikely that there would be a measurable difference, I believe that either filter will be fine.

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I never did fluid dynamics or mechanical engineering, but I'll give it a go. Hopefully I can learn something too.

Your engine has a volumetric efficiency V. The question is which filter reduces the V the least. The filter that does this will be the one that has the smallest pressure drop between the atmosphere and the intake plenum. Since P (pressure) = F (force) / A (area) and the force is 'fixed', when A increases, F / A becomes smaller, hence P is reduced. Therefore, the filter with the smallest surface area - other things being equal - will give the smallest pressure drop and least reduction in V.

That said, the smallest pressure drop does not necessarily give the best performance for the application. If by reducing the pressure you can increase the velocity of the incoming air without starving the engine, you may improve performance over a different rpm range. The only way to determine what's best is to do a few dyno runs with each and hope for a statistically significant difference between them. Since that would probably be prohibitively expensive and it's unlikely that there would be a measurable difference, I believe that either filter will be fine.

Yeah, that's a little too complex for the application I think. Thanks for putting the effort into it though. I haven't had any issues with the Ryco one so far so I'll leave it in till next change. Thought I may as well give it a try since the extra surface area may mean it won't get dirty as quick.

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So its me again ( stupid me), here we go my stupid question:

Can i mix engine oil?? Say Castrol Edge 5w30 with Royal Purple 5W30.

Is it not recommended?

Thanks for any input.

D35

It's impossible to say for certain without knowing exactly what is in each substance. AFAIK, oil companies don't give their recipies away.

In general it is not recommended to mix any two different oils, even if they are of the same viscosity; there is more than one possible chemical route to achieving a given viscosity. Their constituents may or may not react unfavourably.

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So its me again ( stupid me), here we go my stupid question:

Can i mix engine oil?? Say Castrol Edge 5w30 with Royal Purple 5W30.

Is it not recommended?

Thanks for any input.

D35

It's impossible to say for certain without knowing exactly what is in each substance. AFAIK, oil companies don't give their recipies away.

In general it is not recommended to mix any two different oils, even if they are of the same viscosity; there is more than one possible chemical route to achieving a given viscosity. Their constituents may or may not react unfavourably.

Understood.

Thanks for replying.

D35

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