Aurion Gearbox - Sports Mode

[Stealth]

Sorry to spoil everyones fun but all the manual shift mode is for is to change the available gears. I looked into it a while ago and after decrypting the owners manual explanation it works like this.

Shifting from D to "Manual mode" manually changes the gears available to the gearbox. So if you select 3rd gear - the car will only use gears one through three. Or if you select 5th gear the car will only use gears from one through five, etc etc...

The manual shift mode is more to assist with gear selection in heavy/slow traffic (use 4th gear to use gears one through four to provide better respose at slow speeds) or engine braking on downhill stretches. It's only other practical use is for towing.

The crap part is that the manual shift option is nothing more than a modern version of an overdrive selector. But instead of having a 3 speed auto with 4th gear overdrive on a switch, you can select any of the 6 gears. Nothing more...

That's why the car still up and down shifts when it dam well pleases. Even though you think you've selected a single gear, you've only narrowed the cars options.

That was the point of this thread. Didn't really spoil our fun there. LOL.

Hence why I also posted my thoughts on the sports mode on a crappier car Mazda3.

YEP YEP, no worries.

Edited October 15, 2008 by Stealth

[homer501]

1 thing that spins me out is that when in sports mode with the foot down it doesnt change until rede line and also in the manual it says that 4th gear goes to 198 this is not true mine goes to 208 in sports mode at redline also the gears will change at different times in the rev range depending on how much you put the peddle down

[PsychoRez]

I noticed that too, Weird thing is i messed around with it a bit and found out that it shifts whenever you want it to, You just have to pull your foot off the gas when you shift. It doesn't work that well though. If your foot is planted then the AI will shift whenever it feels is best, Otherwise it works perfect. But try what i said, I think one can learn how to do it perfect after a few tries.

[notfromthere]

So hypothetically speaking, if trying to test out the vehicle's maximum potential off the line would one be better off thrashing 'Sports Mode' or 'Auto'?

[Fidzeh]

So hypothetically speaking, if trying to test out the vehicle's maximum potential off the line would one be better off thrashing 'Sports Mode' or 'Auto'?

SPORTS MODE for sure, I tested them out at a spot of lights near my area it's sort of like quarter mile - beat the light kind of thing and in sports mode I basically ran that red light haha.

[Supercharged TRD]

I agree, sports mode FTW. Main reason is because the peak torque of the Aurion is reached at 4700 rpm (4000rpm for the TRD Aurion). If you shift your gears to try to maintain around the range of revs you should get better performance than in auto mode, which is calibrated for normal driving. If I'm in a rush or trying to overtake someone I always use sports mode.

[notfromthere]

Thanks guys, haven't really tried it out in sports mode as yet, waiting for the right moment.

[DJKOR]

The sports mode is definitely the mode to use when you want to push your Aurion for the best sprint possible. It just takes a little practice to make sure you shift it at the right point since the lag in gear shift is a PITA sometimes.

On a side note, what's really odd is that I have not gotten used to the reversed shifting direction on the Aurion even after driving around with it again for the last couple of weeks. When I first got the Aurion, I got used to the 'pull to downshift, push to upshift', but after driving my sister's car which has it the opposite (the correct way), I have not been able to adjust back to the Aurion. It feels way too unnatural. I am really considering swapping the wires around so that it will reverse the direction, but being the picky person that I am, I need to figure out how to swap the + and - around on the gear selector first.

[notfromthere]

Havent' tried reverse as of yet but hey at least they haven't got those paddle's on the steering wheel.

[notfromthere]

It just takes a little practice to make sure you shift it at the right point since the lag in gear shift is a PITA sometimes.

Ok, gave it a bit of a squirt today and I see what your saying regarding shifting at the right point. Most cars may be different but I sat on the brake in first with about 1600-1800rpm and launched it from the lights (no wheel spin with VSC on), now i changed gear (well i thought i did) probably a bit early but it revved out to the limiter and changed when it wanted to and got slight wheel spin when it jumped into second, is that normal or is there a preferable rpm to shift into second or third??

[DJKOR]

...now i changed gear (well i thought i did) probably a bit early but it revved out to the limiter and changed when it wanted to and got slight wheel spin when it jumped into second, is that normal or is there a preferable rpm to shift into second or third??

Depending on the surface that you are on, temperature, and tyre conditions (all normal variables), you can experience some slight wheel spin when it is up-shifting from first to second and you've got your foot down. I seem to get that a lot now, but that's only because I really really need some new tyres.

As for the optimum shift point, there is no exact answer for that. That only really comes with experience. The thing is, there are variables which affect how fast the tacho needle will climb (even if the difference is fractions of a second slower), and as a result, the shift point can vary. With a little experience, you will learn to adjust your reaction to be able to select the next gear in time so that the car will shift just before redline. As a general example to get you started, if you have your foot all the way down, shifting about 1000-1200 RPM before redline seems to be around the right spot.

[notfromthere]

...now i changed gear (well i thought i did) probably a bit early but it revved out to the limiter and changed when it wanted to and got slight wheel spin when it jumped into second, is that normal or is there a preferable rpm to shift into second or third??

Depending on the surface that you are on, temperature, and tyre conditions (all normal variables), you can experience some slight wheel spin when it is up-shifting from first to second and you've got your foot down. I seem to get that a lot now, but that's only because I really really need some new tyres.

As for the optimum shift point, there is no exact answer for that. That only really comes with experience. The thing is, there are variables which affect how fast the tacho needle will climb (even if the difference is fractions of a second slower), and as a result, the shift point can vary. With a little experience, you will learn to adjust your reaction to be able to select the next gear in time so that the car will shift just before redline. As a general example to get you started, if you have your foot all the way down, shifting about 1000-1200 RPM before redline seems to be around the right spot.

Sorry DJ, didn't see the reply.

Best i get out there and practice, not too good with the QLD weather at the moment but the time will come.

[tekkyy]

What happens when you are at D on 5th or 6th gear and then shift to S?

If you approach the lights with wrong timing and want to go through a yellow light, is there a safe way to quickly downshift one gear?

[DJKOR]

What happens when you are at D on 5th or 6th gear and then shift to S?

If you approach the lights with wrong timing and want to go through a yellow light, is there a safe way to quickly downshift one gear?

Whenever you shift into 'S' regardless of the gear that it is in, it will always default to 4th. Quite annoying actually because say you are currently in 3rd and need to shift to 2nd; when you push it into 'S' mode, you need to downshift twice to get it into 2nd. Just the little things like that which I find annoying.

If you are approaching a set of lights and want to go through it when yellow, the fastest way to get it to drop in gear and help you accelerate through it is to simply put your foot all the way down. Regardless of the mode it is in, it will automatically drop in gears appropriately. Changing it over to 'S' mode then downshifting will probably provide the same performance as leaving it in 'D' and just putting your foot down.

[tekkyy]

since the displayed number is just an overdrive number

when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd and switch to 'S' mode, it display '4' as per usual....and it should do nothing

I am more worried about what happens when you are in 5th, or 6th, you switch to 'S' mode, it displays '4'...and does it abruptly change to 4th?

as for the accelerating through lights question, yeah guess should just floor it...I try to think its all good

like since its almost overpowered for its weight...revving a bit before shifting down might be the faster way for short burst acceleration anyway

[DJKOR]

I am more worried about what happens when you are in 5th, or 6th, you switch to 'S' mode, it displays '4'...and does it abruptly change to 4th?

I wouldn't say abruptly. It does change to 4th, but it steps down over a few seconds. The transition is smooth as. You will usually find that if you are cruising in the highway in 'D' and it is most likely in 6th, when you plant your foot down, it actually drops as far as 3rd. 4th gear is actually the 1:1 gear ratio, so dropping to third would be where you get some more power to accelerate on while already cruising.

[momosan8]

mmm... the 2008 Honda Accord V6 won the large car of the year.... which comes with 202kw (as compared to 200kw for the Aurion) and 339nm (336nm for Aurion).... grr..... and possibly faster 0-100km time as well.... grrrrr.......

[DJKOR]

mmm... the 2008 Honda Accord V6 won the large car of the year.... which comes with 202kw (as compared to 200kw for the Aurion) and 339nm (336nm for Aurion).... grr..... and possibly faster 0-100km time as well.... grrrrr.......

Even statements like that wouldn't make me regret my purchase. I love my Aurion and wouldn't trade it for any car within its class.

[momosan8]

haha.... I haven't driven the Accord yet, but have been driving the Aurion for 2 days now... it is certainly a huge step up from my previous car! But it just makes me mad how the figures for Honda's engine just beats the Aurion engine in both power and torque by 2-3 points. However, I do notice that the Aurion engine gets to maximum torque earlier. So it will be a close match between the two in a standing start!

DJKOR, have you taken specific steps to break-in your engine?

Edited November 26, 2008 by momosan8

[DJKOR]

But it just makes me mad how the figures for Honda's engine just beats the Aurion engine in both power and torque by 2-3 points.

Don't get completely mad. The Aurion pushes out 204kW when run on premium unleaded, so there's something to stand by.

DJKOR, have you taken specific steps to break-in your engine?

None at all (taken by me). LOL. My car had quite a story behind it (see 'My Aurion is now on the road' and 'DJKOR's Aurion' for more info). I didn't buy it new. It did live several months though in sunny Cairns where the temperature wouldn't fluctuate too much meaning the engine didn't have a lot of hot/cold cycles. I'm sure that would have been a plus in some form. I would say that it had a good mix of gentle driving by older people, and the occasional thrashing by someone who was lucky enough to hire it.

Anyways, it is stated by Toyota that there is no specific break-in period. The engine doesn't require it. As a general guideline, just run the car easy for the first 1000-5000km.

[momosan8]

But it just makes me mad how the figures for Honda's engine just beats the Aurion engine in both power and torque by 2-3 points.

Don't get completely mad. The Aurion pushes out 204kW when run on premium unleaded, so there's something to stand by.

DJKOR, have you taken specific steps to break-in your engine?

None at all (taken by me). LOL. My car had quite a story behind it (see 'My Aurion is now on the road' and 'DJKOR's Aurion' for more info). I didn't buy it new. It did live several months though in sunny Cairns where the temperature wouldn't fluctuate too much meaning the engine didn't have a lot of hot/cold cycles. I'm sure that would have been a plus in some form. I would say that it had a good mix of gentle driving by older people, and the occasional thrashing by someone who was lucky enough to hire it.

Anyways, it is stated by Toyota that there is no specific break-in period. The engine doesn't require it. As a general guideline, just run the car easy for the first 1000-5000km.

hehe... being "mad" maybe an over exaggeration :P

Ah ic ic... just not sure whether I should hit the 6000rpm during the "break-in" period. The manual did say that for the first 1000k, should drive gently.... not exactly sure what that means.... does that mean accerlate gently but not hitting the high rpms? There are so many different views out there.

[DJKOR]

Ah ic ic... just not sure whether I should hit the 6000rpm during the "break-in" period. The manual did say that for the first 1000k, should drive gently.... not exactly sure what that means.... does that mean accerlate gently but not hitting the high rpms? There are so many different views out there.

It is an argument which is a bit hard to back up. You will always have more than one side to it. If I was to provide my advise, I would say that gentle just means to drive it in an average fashion and not 'race' it. Of course the word 'average' could vary quite a bit, but my perspective on average driving is accelerating so that it would change gears around the 4000 RPM mark or lower. Of course this doesn't mean that you should not go all the way to redline. It would be okay to do that every so often just so the engine does some work around all RPM ranges, just try not to do that at every stationary start (not that I drive like that ), and try not to ride up there for too long. You are best leaving it in 'D' as this will ensure that the car changes gear as early as possible, because most never cars are made to shift into the higher gears as quickly as possible.

During the course of normal driving though, you will always come across times where you need to run the car up to redline, eg. overtaking or entering some highways. So there is no need to be conscious of how you are running the car, as everything kind of works out. One way I like to think of gentle driving is how you would drive if you had your grandparents in the back.

[momosan8]

Thanks mate. For the past 2 days, it might be the way I drive personally or maybe because the Aurion has such a strong engine, I haven't felt the need to take it to redline yet cos I always go past the speed limit before I get there.....

so a question out of curiosity... my previous car had VTEC, and you get a sudden jolt of acceleration when it hits a particular range.... is it the same for the Aurion?

[ELEGNT]

Thanks mate. For the past 2 days, it might be the way I drive personally or maybe because the Aurion has such a strong engine, I haven't felt the need to take it to redline yet cos I always go past the speed limit before I get there.....

so a question out of curiosity... my previous car had VTEC, and you get a sudden jolt of acceleration when it hits a particular range.... is it the same for the Aurion?

aurion with lift haha we all wish!! no it doesnt unfortunetly but it does pull harder and harder all the way to limiter so be prepared mate ....brace urself hahah :P

[momosan8]

haha... can't wait to test it out... maybe after the first 1000k and service hehe....

mmm... going by my calculations, that would be in about 2 weeks... I will start the count down :P