tekkyy

They have done... 4 wheel balance 4 wheel alignment reset camber modification (they said they drilled a hole) rotated wheels Now it's all improved. *settles off-centre (but less than before, and close to symmetry in that it starts settling to the right on a slight road slope to the right) *no longer shakes at 110km/h (it's possible the problematic wheel has been sent to the back) *needs to be only slightly to the right for the car to go straight on most roads That have pumped the tyres to... front left 273 front right 268 rear left 255 rear right 244 I hope it's not too bad when I set them to 250kPa all around. Question Does everyone's steering wheel settle off-centre according to road slope?

Wheel balance done about 10 months ago when I changed tyres. No vibration at low speed even when braking. It can be more or less apparent depending on road surface of the freeway. I've booked a full wheel alignment and full wheel balance at a specialist. Not wasting my time anymore with the dealer. (looking back, over the years dealer got the wheel alignment straight only 2 of 6 times)

The rattle might be due to deterioration over time. It could be just something lose considering how it was removed last time by replacing intermediate steering shaft and this time by replacing steering column. The dealer just said the steering column has a bit of free play hence suggested we replace it for $650. I mention the price only to help people more knowledgeable then me to decide which technical part we are referring to.

My steering wheel is showing the following symptoms: *settles off-centre (5-10 degrees to the left) *shakes about 4 times a second at 110km/h *needs to be at 5 degrees to the right for the car to go straight While the car is moving (accelerating or cruising) if I glt go of the steering wheel it re-settles itself to the left. This happens when the road is slightly lower on the left, flat, or slightly lower on the right. When the road is much lower on the right, the steering wheel re-settles itself to the right. At 100km/h there is no steering wheel shake. At 110km/h it shakes. It occurs at a frequency of about 4 times a second and the steering resistance appears to drop about the centre position. Step 1. Dealer performed wheel alignment and no change. Step 2. I then got a quiet rattling sound* from steering column when road is bumpy. Step 3. Dealer replaced steering column for $650 and no change. Step 4. Are there any Aurion expert mechanics in Sydney? *This noise appears a few years ago and was gone after they replaced intermediate steering shaft under warranty.

to send a clear message to toyota the community should create a full rattles kit it'll contain a list of parts and instructional videos

yeah I've always wondered why only two corner sensors in the front for the shape of the Aurion its not ideal can you think of some sort of circuit to give the closer of the two sensor readings to the system? it'll be neat to make use of the factory parking sensor display

yeah to make our figures useful distance and time is a practical way to capture effects of traffic, lights, signs... 7-Eleven E10 22km in 45mins 11.5 to 12.5L/100km

yeah Philips DayLight 4 is about $130 from both Germany and HK

actually its the shipping from Europe that brings the price up it appears Hella kits are otherwise price competitive with Philips kits I google on it and people from various forums were waiting for a local supplier of Hella LEDayFlex there may be other Hella kits avaliable from local supplier though

Hella LEDayFlex ebay has them at $100 for the pair, $300 for the kit but ship from Germany by far harder to install more for the hardcore modders I am thinking of the Philips at the lower corner grills though taking away the fogs lol maybe I could get the AT-X lower corner grills from wreckers or maybe Toyota still sells them

I went with the chrome covers a while back for the trouble of installing actual chrome handles, its not that bad some cars have handles that are not chrome all the way so the chrome covers don't odd to me

oh...never gave it much thought but I just assumed those DRL control relays to works on vibration now that I thought about it, the philips video did say to mount it away from heat

I am looking at getting the plate for the fog light area but the ones without fog lights. Could you PM me the wreckers you tried?

yep I also used www.led-drk.co.uk to generated the pics the buttom centre grille (pre-facelift) was measured 74cm across SCOOTA44's position would break the 600mm EU regulation 600mm is possibly related to stereovision and emergency vehicles position A: mount it below fog light chrome strip this is like jaysonn341's position I measured that to be about 3.5cm deep DayLight 4 is 28mm in depth it'll then block the top of the fog light position B: mount it behind fog light plastic plate the space between fog light and the centre was measured 10cm Daylight 4 is 12.6cm to mount it there I could put it behind the fog light plastic plate? it'll then show 10cm of the 12.6cm and shining at a significantly reduced viewing angle

sorry I uploaded 2 more philips generated pics you might have to reference in terms of MY09 at-x, MY10 at-x, etc... but I think the one you find not ideal is what I liked hehe (as part of preference for buttom corners) where did you put it on your Corolla?

For me thin strips looks tacky. Blue also doesn't do it for me. I think it doesn't look odd in the buttom corners of the bumper. Touring has fog lights. Wanted to jam them in the remaining space. I measured it and the Daylight 4's 12.6cm length don't fit. In the centre buttom grille on pre-facelift models I think they are a bit too close together.

See this thread for reviews of at least 5 models. Aurion Navigation head unit discussion

That Philips Bluevision parker is bulb not LED right? So they might last a while?

Saw another Aurion the day near Sutherland. Looked alright. At $200 installed by Autobarn I am really tempted with these Philips DRL. Just waiting for your photos, Spider, before I jump in. Saw a truck with a couple of truely blue strips the other day. Including one right in the middle.

this year I was gonna switch from NRMA ($1400) to AAMI ($1000) didn't get around to do it many years ago in an accident the other party lied NRMA was gonna take away the no claim bonus our neighbour was able to be a witness for us the other party, seeing the seriousness, backed down I think many lie and get away with it if you were keen on your case... (and not your money and time) you could have taken legal action successful or not it shows the other party a sense of seriousness maybe they won't start the lie next time maybe all cars should have those $30 cameras on ebay

Its only an extrapolation. I do 80% highway but plenty of traffic and lights. 45mins to cover 22km in the morning. Is the Bridgestone free wheel alignment for Sydney too? Is it back to the particular Bridgestone select/dealer/shop? I bought mine at Bridegstone shop.

We are talking about wheel alignment not wheel balance right? Nice. Is it a deal when you bought the car?

Seen a few reviews of the Primacy LC having poor to bad performance in the wet, did you see those reviews? Thanks the heads up, wet weather grip was a big factor for me... back to the drawing board... trying to find one for about 180/tyre might ask around for those kumho's. Start fresh. Set your budget. Rank the following. Wet, dry, mileage, noise, and comfort. At about $150 I see Kumho Solus KH15 for wet and Bridgestone Potenza RE001 for dry. I had the Kumho Solus KH15 before on Camry. Noisy compared to stock Michelin Vivacy. Only 18,000km mileage in the front. But has AA wet traction rating. Choice tyre comparison also had it doing well in the wet. Bridgestone Potenza RE001 is great in the dry. By my extrapolation about 40,000km mileage in the front.

OK back to this. I measured today. See if you can make sense of it. total/indicator 14,440km front new front right 7.3/5.6 17,000km front right 6.8/6.0 23,000km front right 6.4/5.1 25,100km front new rear left 5.8/4.8 rear right 6.0/5.6 44,000km rotated front left 4.6/3.6 front right 5.2/4.6 rear left 4.3/3.6 rear right 5.2/4.3

I don't want to rotate not just because I want to keep track of mileage. I also want to be keep track of wear, punctures, etc. The whole tyre rotation thing is a bit contraversial anyway. Rotation pattern for cornering safety, braking safety, asymmetric tyres, mileage... I rather not rotate and just change them in pairs.