tekkyy

for the rear camera wiring I pulled off the door and b-pillar trims while I was at it I placed a little bit of foam between the top and button b-pillar trims don't know if that'll fix my b-pillar rattle or squeak I now have some vibration noises from the general area don't kow if I didn't fit it correctly or whether its because I broke one of the white clips of the left rear door trim will put foam a bit more when I get around to it

spotted two Aurions in the same driveway in Kirrawee both silver both sportivo both pre-facelift theories include twins

its to stop the club from becoming a classified right?

parking sensors does not help with safety I went as far as getting a gps just for rear view camera even planned for wireless hundreds of dollars and maybe 10 hours of labour later I was without the feature finally have some sort of setup yesterday I am also afraid of using the drill too 1. detached the key hole on the boot 2. inserted my camera cables from the outside 3. place small bit of foam tape 4. tied the camera to the inside with a few strings through the hole this is the view you get from position of the key hole the white bar is the boot wires through ski-port and lying on backseat enter the glovebox and then through the hole onto the dash coat hanger helped I lost hours and lots of sweat playing with wires, connectors and wireless module just wanted to have it now I'll be looking for suggestions of better mounting for strength? centre view? resistance to automatic car wash? :o

Thanks. No wonder I couldn't remove it. Need to remove number plate trim.

Has anyone removed the whole license plate ight mold before? You push it towards the outside of the car right?

The guide gave me confidence to do it the other night. Thanks. DO you guys remove the air vents by prying it from the top? I find that this damages the soft dash trim. I've seen videos prying it from the buttom (against the hard surface of OEM head unit) and thats what I did. The clips between the head unit and climate control confused me. Didn't know I have to remove the climate control too from the plates.

I tapped everywhere and found this to be the cause of my rattle from the back. Its where the rear dash joins with the c-pillar. I placed a thin piece of foam there and the rattle is gone.

Its listed as 14.1L/100km urban, 7.6L/100km extra urban and 9.9L/100km combined. I've gotten 8.0 on a trip involving 90% freeway. Its about 11.5 for my commute to work involving 25% residential, 50% congested highway, and 25% free flowing highway. If you are super worried. You can put a few litres of petrol in. That'll also reset the trip computer.

how about I just have parkers turn on with engine this makes it much simpler right? like put in a parallel circuit to turn on the parkers I'll have a better idea one I know what signals are being sent around fog+led, yeah I saw that too http://www.rstyleracing.com/index.aspx?ProductID=Product-110128184679169 headlight+led yeah DJKOR said headlights are the same dimensions but would you get it if it was really simple and doesn't dim with turning indicator or doesn't turn off when headlights are on?

other members and myself have posted aftermarket products here

which of these 2 camry cameras would fit easier on the Aurion? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WIRELESS-Reverse-Rear-View-Camera-Toyota-Camry-09-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335f2a5c7fQQitemZ220639943807QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/factorykiss/nEO_IMG_002_029.jpg http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/factorykiss/nEO_IMG_003_030.jpg http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WIRELESS-Reverse-Rear-View-Camera-Toyota-Camry-08-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa316957bQQitemZ320563746171QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/factorykiss/nEO_IMG_002_030.jpg http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/factorykiss/nEO_IMG_003_031.jpg

so where is the computer that controls the headlights? how many wires goes towards he headlights? I didn't see it in the FAQ index, do we have this information on the forum somewhere?

yeah I know what you mean sometimes I even switch to neutral at the lights but I only had/noticed it when the car is two years old dealer said there is nothing wrong I even compared it side by side with work mate's Aurion but in-conclusive too bad we are in difference city otherwise I would bug you for a comparison

not to lose Aurion's auto headlight function, for this I could go with the approach at Q1 would be nice to see images of wiring too yeah I guess, not much difference between installing one relay and three relays can I get some advice on approach Q3 thanks

Besides the look-at-me daytime running LED lights on Audi, Merc and HSV... I am also seeing more cars on the road using parking lights as daytime running lights. That would be a pretty cheap option wouldn't it? However RTA website does say parking lights are not effective. Could turn parking lights on manually but our dash indicators doesn't differentiate between parking lights and low beam. And why waste the auto headlights and downgrade our Aurion. Scope and budget is yet to be decided so... Q1 If wiring change is all too much who has found a small plastic cap good for tricking the light sensor? Thought that does turn on the red tail lights which is probably bad. Q2 Whats involved in wiring change to power the front parking lights (or new LED strip) whenever low beam is off? Q3 Whats involved in wiring change to power the front parking lights (or new LED strips) whenever low beam is off and light switch is on auto? Q4 Any recommendations for complete kits that adds LEDs and includes control box to *turn on when headlights are off *dim that side when using the turning indicator (if in headlight mold) *provide manual override Q5 Any recommendation for a Sydney aftermarket installer? Is $300 enough or am I dreaming? (Add LED to room near fog lights? Add to headlight mold like IS250?)

besides the single sound (widely acceptable as ABS self check) once you reach 20km/h I also get a bunch of fainter sounds around 40km/h

to me what it needs the most is an updated suspension

I am interested in fuel consumption figures for different speeds. Did it give you such information? Is the data-logging software supplied with the ebay item? Just a OPC/DDE/etc server or the full package?

I am looking at Star Cafe Wash. Their "Star Polish" is $95. Wash, Clay, Polish. ("A thorough Clay Bar treatment to remove surface contaminants such as tar and bugs from paintwork.") Disappointed once, and being realistic now, I am not convinced. Clay takes me 1-2 hours to do it myself. Maybe I'll give it a shot. Tell them to skip the polish part (in case they don't really clay and do nothing but add swirl marks).

I shall spend a bit more and check out one the suggested places above. Not sure which to try first. Its a 2 years old Aurion in white. Happy to spend $200 for clay and wax. Don't know if bluff is worthwhile for a white car. (Clay is too much work for me. Wax is time consuming but not too bad.) Also looking at steam cleaning. There are a few spot stains on the cloth seat. (Armor All is easy to do yourself but I don't see vendor letting you hand pick which item to do. Its usually a package.) ******************** Checked out Sydney Car Wash Cafe's Gordon shop and had their $85 Polish & Detail. It was a budget price with a time frame of 40 minutes. It was a cloudy afternoon. The wash left obvious stains behind and some dirty water marks on the bonnet. They did wipe the edges and hinges though. The vacuum was not detailed. Some trims were wiped and some trims weren't. It doesn't look like they've actually dressed the trims. Though they left the pedals a little bit slippery. The guy handing the car back to me says he knows what I am talking about. Yet my touch says the clay work mostly skipped. The wax was a wipe on wipe off. Vendor: Sydney Car Wash Cafe @ Gordon Name: Polish & Detail Price: $85 Wash (Body): 6/10 Wash (Wheels): 8/10 Vacuum: 7/10 Trim: 5/10 Clay: 0/10 Wax: 5/10 Verdict: Quick and cheap but not as professional as their website suggests.

thnx guys yeah its the low freqency rattle which gets drown out so you need to put up the volume and listen it appears the cabin insulates against the other general engine noise better yeah there is also that softer higher pitch whistling noise but that appears to come from the right of the engine that noise is too soft to be heard from the cabin i wasn't worried but would be nice if that low frequency rattle wasn't there i still think aurion is pretty smooth

My 2008 build Aurion has this engine noise that can be noticed in the cabin. You can hear it when idling, in park or drive. I think it wasn't there before. I compared it to my workmates's 2009 build Aurion and it doesn't have it. The noise seems to come from far left corner of the engine when looking from the front of the car. Somewhere to the side or buttom of the engine. Its a low frequeny noise at about 3 times a second. The sound is there cold and warm. So I took a video after driving 22kms home. http://www.mediafire.com/?ihsma35szgsf11i You gotta put the volume up to hear it. If its not apparent I can take another video with the mouth piece of the phone faced down just for the sound.

the other day I notice some lose plastic in the area below the glove box think I might have found the source of the noise that appears to be from the glove box area but recently I am hearing a rattle (like a lose piece) near the vents in the centre of the dash, where it joins with the windscreen

sounds good a small thing but bugs me sometimes