tekkyy

I bought the Night Breaker following recommendations on the forum. A few months ago I compared it with my colleague's Aurion. Face-lift OEM vs OSRAM Night Breaker Plus Don't know whats changes were made at face-lift. Don't know if colour of the cars can have a local effect on white balance on the camera. But it seems OEM is closer to blue white then the OSRAM.

So I avoided drilling. Bought a 2nd camera, the license plate type. No drilling. Strong mount. Camera angle centred. But its clunky. It obstructs the number plate slightly. The other day my colleague wondered if I could get booked. So I decided to look into it again. Today it just clicked. Just jam it between the license plate and the holder? Double sided foam tape between camera and license plate surface to keep it straight.

Wheels June 2011 did another tyre test. It had the RE001 not the RE002. RE001 basically matched the best of the $400 premium tyres at twice its price like Michelin Pilot Sport 3 in the dry. It beats some of the other $400 tyres. Hope RE002 didn't stuff anything up. If its improved noticably in the wet it could shake the market. Got my RE001 for $155. They were on run-out at $135 back in Jan 2011.

With the cheap tool I got off ebay I measure total thread depth and depth til wear indicator and store it in excel. But I haven't measured for a while. I think it was wearing quite slowly. But I aim for a more gentle commute to work. It lost like 1mm of 6mm for 10,000 kms. But its probably not linear. At the 36month service the tires were rotated against my noted wish. I'll try to remember to measure them again. I have OEM for the boot so they couldn't have involved that in the rotation.

the one in the drawing looks nicer than the one in the photo/cg the accord v6 look alike has been around and I hope thats not it lol

I find that it doesn't do it when engine is warming up and holding revs at 1,000rpm. It does it when its warmed up and revs at 600rpm. Shifting to neutral reduces the vibration/noise as the revs climb to 800rpm but then it stablises about 600rpm again and vibration/noise comes back, although possibly less of it. Don't know if its fuel related. I was on Vortex 95 for 4 weeks. Now on 7-Eleven E10. It seems to be more noticable as this winter approached.

the engine is smooth and the sound insulation is not bad so certain rattles really show up and annoy get on a bumpy road about 50-60km/h preferrably the cement kind radio off, air con off, windows up sales or friends to shut up drive safe look for rattles, squeaks, flexing, and vibrations at forward dash, air vents, B-pillar, and steering column turn air con to full blast check for rattles from centre air vent

Ok lets be precise. The alarm does not make a sound on mine when I unlock using the metal key. Thats the Touring which doesn't use smart-key. Can you sum up the whole thing again precisely and in chronological order? Are you saying the alarm used to sound before you started using a keysmith copy of your key?

They blew within a month for him. He didn't say if he was referring to the 7 LED type or the SMD type though.

was the LEDs on your multi-LED non-SMD T10 also rectangular? looking at buying a different kind of multi-LED non-SMD T10 which has round and conventional looking LEDs also looking at warm white (thinking it'll be more visible than pure white in daytime eventually? so how long did your single LED type last? now I am worried, maybe I should just forget it is the SMD type? is the non-SMD kind still going strong?

Yeah I got that too this morning when taking off from a t-intersection. Petrol was about 25% full. Was the acceleration smooth for you? I am not sure but I think it wasn't for me.

I bought a pair with 1 big LED and then another pair with 9 small LEDs tested with just a 9V battery 1 big LED one is bright but doubt its bright enough to be seen in daytime 9 small LEDs one is dim but duno if its going to be massively brighter at 12V and ebay item said "dashboard"

Wow. What do you mean you can push it to 80K? How many mm you had left at 72K? My factory Dunlop 300E didn't last long. It hit the indicator on one of the front tyres at 15K odo. I changed to Bridgestone Potenza RE001. Hmm. Could it be that harder tyres have better mileage on smooth roads? Yet somehow worse mileage on bumpy roads?

The Aurion feels quite firm at low speed on bumpy roads. But I didn't feel a difference in firmness going from 210kPa to 240kPa. However at 240kPa it does feel less bouncy.

Oh I see. I was trying to understand from the difference between the two diagrams. So hey are both switched 12V. 12(IO) is on at "ACC" position and 3(II) is on at "ON" position yeah?

Thanks for preparing the illustration, DJKOR. You said both "option 1" and "option 2" uses ACC fused power. Is that 12(IC) or 3(II)?

Nice. Now is it possible to isolate the front parkers and power just that? Where does it split up and power the front parker, rear parker, etc?

I took a photo of the fuse box in the engine bay. How do I do to turn the parkers on permanently?

No, for safety reasons a mild accident would be my limit. For about $150 you can get a mechanical report with photos of underbody, etc. I came to the thread expecting really low prices. At those you can buy a normal 2nd Aurion. You should get a report to filter out the flood damaged cars too.

Yeah in the garage I put my hand in front of one sensor at a time. Anyway, used it outdoors today and all is normal. I get a solid continuous tone when its down to 1 bar.

what does your dash show? does it still go 4, 3, 2 and then 1 bar? the manual says it stars beeping from 60cm or something

After my car came back from the smash repair my parking sensor work slightly differently. You know how at the 2nd closest distance it makes a rapid beep beep beep beep beep beep... Then at closest distance it makes a continuous beeeeeeeeeep... At the 2nd closest distance its still the same. But at closest distance it makes a beep beep beep beep beeeeeeeeeep beep beep beep beep beeeeeeeeeep... Also, I don't remember how it was before but now if I put my hand 3cm in front of sensor it doesn't sense at all. Parking sensor indicators (lines) at the speedo still works. Any ideas?

if they didn't do the whole NVH kit you can ask them to do it its a bigger job and can add new rattles and gaps though

yeah at one stage I thought about putting led strip next to fog light did you post a guide on that?

I have put the cables under the door trims since but put the cable behind the glovebox yet the cutout area above my number plate looks like joelau007's pic just a faint line marking out the area, not quite the thick line that you have (your one looks like it can just snap out?) was the same area look like from inside the boot? for mine it appears to have nothing int the same area (metal plate inside the boot)