tekkyy

You're right. It was just how far I engage the park brake. Foot down a few notches and my park brake also worked in reverse.

My driveway has a very slight incline. I drive home in [D], "up" the slight incline, and shift to [N]. When I let go of the brakes the car moves back a little and then stops. It only moves a little (maybe 3 inches) so it shouldn't be that it moved to an area so much flatter that the rolling resistance stops the car. I shall laid down a tape measure later on. Also, the park brake doesnt seem to work in [R]. As soon as I let go of the brakes the car moves (and doesn't stop). (This discussion started as we discussed Aurion's transmission in "Surge in Park" http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27179.)

I agree and was going to say the same thing. Not sure if 6 gears is enough to be relevent but sometimes I wish I could tell it to maximize fuel economy. That is, down shift just enough to cut off fuel without stalling but not agressive with the engine braking. After 2 years it still feels weird when the car slows down downhill and eventually you have to accelerate so people don't tailgate you.

actually I do wonder if the transmission is still engaged in Neutral then my driveway is very slightly inclined, higher towards the house when I get home and wait for the garage door to open I put it into neutral (car is developing a very soft rattle at idle, coming from a small box on the buttom to the left of the engine...dealer says the noise is the power steering pump working though I didn't confirm we are talking about the same location) if I then let go of the brakes the car moves backwards (down the very slight incline) a little and then stops does it happen for you guys?

structure strength is not the major factor in the market value of a car at least not ahead of performance and comfort

yeah meets and offlines would be so useful for that

the stock Dunlop (SP Sport 300E 215/60R16) did 14,000km on the front before it reached the indicator probably could do 18,000km if I wanted to replaced the front with Adrenalin same dimensions last year threads moved like 1 mm after 11,000km, again this is the front this year I had a puncture (off a big blunt nail) on one of the back ones rotated front to back and added two more Adrenalins soft tires might not have good mileage but comfort is not over-rated just want to go home comfortably after work its cheap too $155 last year and $164 this year Yokohama C.Drive are ~$200 for 205/55/R16 (currently using on the Camry) Michelin Energy are ~$230 for 205/55/R16 (had it on the Camry before) it seems to be quieter than the Dunlop but probably just my head asked Bridgestone about larger and wider but prices were steep would they last longer though?

yeah sometimes I shift to neutral at the lights to reduce the vibration wonder if the gear stick wearing is worth it or not? car is 22 month old now and I do notice a gradual increase of idle vibration from an area next to the front-button-left of the engine

is that what Toyota said or what your dealer said? anyway I had my dash rattle kit put in just before the 18 month optional service (it didn't do anything though, I think I had dash flex squeaks rather than rattles)

I hope AWD and 4WS become mainstream one day but I guess its what people feel like, roller coaster vs. speed boat

we know the physics both cold or hot air should work provided its high air flow is mid range temperature and/or low air flow that can cause unexpected results just try things out when you're parked so its not as scary also, have you been cleaning the windsceen? dirty windscreen appears to fogs up easier for me

I am happy with Adrenalin was turning with bad visibility (blocked by traffic) the other day almost got hit, felt like...wow I reacted fast there saw smoke for the first time yeah Adrenalins (RE001) are much cheaper I got 215/60R16 from Bridgestone dealer for $155 I am a little confused so RE050 is expensive, loud and has good performance how does that equate to "everyday"?

similar to the OP I get it from soft acceleration (not when pushed hard) I noticed it very early, 2000km unsmooth gear change from 2nd to 3rd around 45km/h it seems like the revs jump up a little and then we shift into next gear

...FWD, understeer...is bought up more often than needed how often do we (drivers of family cars) floor it mid corner? in the other times, all 3 family cars in question have big, heavy, front-mounted engines and will be noise heavy no?

is great they replaced the A-pillar for free today 6222006122B0 GARN ASY FR FILAR LH the steering part turns out to be the intermediate shaft that others forum members had talked about 4522006132 Steering Intermediate Shaft so far so good, haven't heard the noise again

no knocking for me but a rattle to me, somehwere to the right of the steering to dealer, it is the steering that was 23rd Jan I too had to call them to remind them the part for me was 4522006132 steering intermediate shaft so far so good, haven't heard the noise again I do wonder if I was manufacturing or wear and tear (in which case it'll return, Sydney roads...)

We generally stop behind the 1st line at the lights. Which of the 3 lines does the law refer to for running a red light? Nothing in the photos show the Aurion crossing the 1st or 2nd line after the lights went red. Its a close call for the 3rd line. So amber penalty and road safety aside, I don't know why everyone is so certain and so harsh to him. They really need to upgrade or readjust those cameras for shocking shutter lag or impotent technican respectively. The 1st photo should have been taken before he touched the line the law refers to. The road sensors in the photos are positioned clearly away from the 1st line.

near b-pillar: vibration, soft, frequent on unsmooth road surface near steering wheel: rattle, louder, rattle, only on road joints and bumps had a test drive with the dealer today the b-pillar noise is soft but he heard it eventually I sugguested it sounds like theres something inside he said its just a thick metal pillar inside to support roof he says its the plastic piece on the seat belt mount and had done other cars noise near steering wheel is less frequent first he says it'll be hard to find it (on and off noise) fortunately he drove to the local park's car park with uneven surface and found the noise he sees it loud when you don't hold the steering wheel picked up the car he said he had put foam inside b-pillar on the drive home I heard noise is still there these few days I still to feel its not just from b-pillar but maybe rear of cabin as well and a part is on order for the steering noise A-pillar scratch lubricant fixed arm rest squeak

service guy at dealer couldn't see how the scratch came about but when I pick up the car he said A-pillar plates are on order something about not covered by warranty but he'll replace it anyway (he was already ordering a steering part for a rattle he says is on the steering) with the gap between centre console right edge and dash he said they put foam under the dash with the NVH kit and its hard to fit it back perfectly he offered to move the centre console but I declined

my arm rest used to squeak when passenger rests an elbow on it and the car goes over even small bumps the under side of the lid, passenger side, about one third length from the rear squeaks when I press it with my finger had a test drive today, showed the service guy it doesn't squeak if I pull the lid outwards he fixed it today service guy said he put some lubricant on it in the photo you can still see the lubricant along the right edge side

lol this is turning into a who-lose-the-back-seats-wins not sure the nature of your bet but if it was me I would make it stock as in stock would manual shift be the go? I thought it was auto in 'S' mode, rev to 2k on paper its too close so to me the winner is probably the cheater hehe

try "swinging" the glovebox, see if thats the noise I once considered lining the glovebox with a thin layer of black foam or something regarding passenger seat belt hitting b-pillar I used to bucket the passenger seat belt to stop it lol I don't do that now, it doesn't seem to do it anymore yeah the dash kit didn't fix my rattles and I got some scratches from it

most people test drive the problem is they got rip of far too many options (models) before things get started also, its important to give them test driving tips

how does the $66k Passat R36 compare to Aurion TRD? slightly smaller yes

smooth and quiet thats what I felt when I test drove the Aurion I felt the same did you bother to test the Audi on a horrid (bumpy) road?