tekkyy

Empty the car (glovebox and compartments) and check a few things. Accelerate softly. You may notice the switching of gears around 40km/h is unusually slow. Some people even notice gear flare. Now turn AC full blast, recirculate, and directed to upper vent only. Check for rattles in centre air vent. Once the car is cool enough, close windows and turn off radio. Drive on a bumpy roads (the cement tye road full of road joints) and watch for squeaks from dashboard and rattles from glovebox. Drive on a smooth but uneven road (to cut down road noise) like suburban roads. Watch for softer but more consistent rattles in areas like b-pillar. power, economy, and refinement in that market ($20k 2yo large car) the engine is outstanding to me, the competition is outclassed by the Aurion comparing features, the Aurion wins hands down 8-way powered seat, adjustable head rests (5), curtain airbags... they made NRMA look heavily biased giving the best large car (2006, 2007, 2009) prize to Aurion

yeah the geniue full size weathershields I got back in 2008 do NOT have chrome its after a while then I realise the bit of damage it did to looks a bit of wind noise on the freeway too the only good thing is I can open the window a bit to reduce the heat during parking and not worry about the rain (unstable weather)

plastic rear garnish being part of bigger piece holes behind door trim oh thats bad news I won't do anything then just putting on chrome door handle seems to look odd

Does anyone know where to buy the rear chrome garnish? The ones fitted on Prodigy and Presara. I can only see chrome door handle (exterior) on ebay. Would be interested in interior chrome door handles too. Some of us had experience debadging and removing model/version name. (think the technique was hair dryer and hair/wire). Anyone tried removing the door strip?

watched your video I get that noise when I press the left rear area of the arm rest (also a chill box, side featur of air con) don't know how to disassemble that though

Aurion Touring, 2008, stock 215/60R16 Bridgestone RE001 Adrenalin on front, stock Dunlop Sport SP 300E on rear had a trip on new years day with full car so I pumped to 240 kPa (was 210 kPa) as recommended by drivers door the ride is actually smoother! and maybe its my head but I feel body roll is reduced

I go to the dealer the the old Camry I went to the dealer until the dealer extended warranty expired duno if I am hijacking the thread or going to be praised for using an existing thread but... so some had good service Terry Shields, Ryde, and Waterloo City Toyota eh? what about experience regarding less common servicing like rattles? anyone had good experience anywhere? I've had the dash NVH kit fitted at Sydney dealer at R******e and it didn't do much they also failed to rectify B-pillar rattles (the report just says they secured trims) the right panels near the centre console no longer line up there are several scratches on the [very scratch vulnerable due to material] A-pillars the left is ok A-pillars are scratched am I nitpicking?

the $160 bit, is that a special deal from your dealer? part of the Toyota backed extended warranty? I've got the Toyota backed extended warranty

yeah motor reporters can be quite bias I buy magazines like Wheels and read websites like caradvice I just skip the subjective comments comment regarding interior and NVH are meaningless if they don't describe objectively or show some numeric comparison respectively it is a bit sad though that many negative reporters are just negative but do not inform us of the real flaws of the Aurion I've learnt to ask fans of car A to learn about its flaws and fans of a rival model to learn about A's strengths its difficult to extract such information of course but its worth it

took the car to dealer to change the VVT-i hose today asked them to look at dash and b-pillar rattle too my mild dash squeak (over sharp bumps or road joints) remains but no big deal I am guessing the noise kit is probably designed for serious rattles which I never had I dislike the b-pillar rattle more it starts on certain rough road surface and keeps going are there any dealer who would ride with you? (so you can show to them exactly which noise you are talking about) like if the, service engineer, hear the sound for himself bells would ring right? no charge there were big "warranty" words stamped on the items on shop copy of the receipt dealers gets money from Toyota for servicing right?

actually I was going to ask on here about that but didn't want to start a thread I would describe the dash as squeaks and this B pillar noise as rattle I get the dash squeak only over sharp bumps and road joints the b pillar rattle I get it on certain uneven surfaces and then it kind of becomes harmonic and keeps going in response to a wider range of surfaces the dash rattle is much less noticeable after this appeared lol it sounds like its coming from somewhere on the b pillar near the seat belt mount but of course that may not be the source but merely a release point of the noise

should get mine done before xmas too

by the way, which dash vibration/rattle did you experience? was it fixed?

I am specifically looking at optimal cruise speed. I guess fuel miser is suggesting about 70km/h with his photo. This could be right. My experience has been that free flowing traffic (and lots of luck with traffic lights) on the highway gives better consumption than on the freeway. The factory trip computer do not give instantaneous or short term fuel economy so I am not sure. Hence I am seeking figures from guys with more advanced third party trip computers. Regarding comments of "driving as a taxi in hobart with many hills by scootastaxisx6 and even earlier "hoon driving" by DKJOR... I believe fuel consumption don't go up much as we rev it. Its heavily to do with braking due to traffic, traffic lights, give way and stop signs.

anyone got a ScanGauge or equivalent? what seems to be the best cruise speed for fuel economy?

the suspension on the Aurion can give drivers a bouncy (instead of bumpy) feeling over small but sharp bumps like concrete joints over time the smoothness of the ride made me more sensitive to road conditions and the same road starts to feel bumpy but go in a different car and you go back to reality I find taxi's (previous generation Falcon and Statesmen) have an even softer ride though those concrete roads are everywhere in Sydney, especially in the inner west Ashfield Campsie Lakemba

I feel for you my work place is on a residental street there are a couple of residents who are not keen on you making a living one of them even treatened to give my collegue's car a dent I would 1. report to police and claim insurance (to update the databases and "correct" the insurance costs for the residents) 2. install a surveillance camera in your car (I've considered doing this before, not seeing much on ebay...anyone know the costs?)

my trip computer is usually optimistic by about 0.65 L/100km (long term average)

I regularly go down a tight downhill bend only braking moderately I can hear the noise but strangely its multiple times as I come to a stop (instead of once like normal engine start takeoff) (location: Sydney M5 tunnel west bound access from Princes Highway) in my experience the threshold speed is closer to 20km/h

how often do family cars get push through a corner anyway? if you are not accelerating substantially in the middle of a corner, is there useful difference between FWD, RWD, and AWD?

I had a 205/60R16 Kumho Solus KH15 on the Camry it wasn't a quiet tyre

I must be doing a bad job with tyre maintenance my 215/60R16 Dunlop SP Sport 300E on the Aurion hit the thread indicators after 14,000km

just noted from NRMA magazine 5 stars finally passenger reminder and pole test for +3 points 33.03

I'll join the other side to keep a blaanced discussion I think there will be safety implications(or even improvements) by changing wheels and/or suspensions, its a question of which aspect braking distance would probably improve will larger wheels and wider tyres unless you go totally stupid with the suspension ABS wouldn't have to kick in if there wasn't a lock to start with of course in the wet wide tyres have a much harder time dispersing water (to go with the package I imagine you are probably looking at a dry performance tyre) just hope the stablility control don't have to kick stablility control tuning is complex and it would be at least not optimal in a non-stock setting

actually I wouldn't mind the AT-X looking like that photo like I think currently the front is a bit grey and needs the chrome nice if they would cross the line and get 5 star in the earlier articles it sounded like Toyota can't be bothered yet 5 star only a piece cake, they ought to do it 30 + 2 (pole test) + 1 (passenger seat belt warning) = 33 done knee area adjustments (like Commodore) would 2 more points putting it ahead of Falcon no drivetrain changes so ok its not gonna to happen but it'll be funny if the new Aurion has the Camry-like offical fuel consumption again