tekkyy

wouldn't it be nice to have a topic with service costs so fellow members can check to see if they got ripped-off

Eat into Falcon Commodore territory they did. Lets look at VFacts figures. VFacts June 2008 (Month/Year To Date) Holden Commodore 4274/23323 Ford Falcon 3483/14781 Toyota Aurion 2552/11387 Toyota Camry 2261/11771 11387 + 11771 = 23158 The Camurion is a top Australia car by popularity along with Commodore. Domestically and internationally. I saw a Camry police car the other day at Berala, Sydney. When Camry hyrid comes up I wonder how many government fleet cars would turn into them. Year by year Commodore market share shrinks. If Commodore doesn't get the act together there soon won't BE competition. There'll always be a couple of people who askes for manual transmission or rear wheel drive. But as a business Toyota have to be practical. Manual sales are tiny. Rear wheel drive is only popular to a couple of magazine writers and others. If TRD had manual and rear wheel drive you might have been turned away. The cost would be more weight, less power, and higher prices if you know what I mean.

its funny how it doesn't actually have an up-down adjustment to move up the seat turns towards a V shape both front (leg cushion) and back (seat base tilt) goes up our Camry Touring isn't like that it had a distinct up-down adjustment doesn't bother me much though I put the seat height all the way down and actually wished the seat can be adjusted a bit lower again, the old car can go lower

no brake light if it doesn't stick up high enough it won't even help with parking

talk of police cars I saw a Camry at Berala, Sydney on Monday made me wonder if they punish officers with it then again Commodore is just as slow

From memory it occurs at different temperatures on my Aurion. It appears to be for certain throttle position. It appears if I rev it hard it doesn't do. If I accelerate slowly it doesn't do. But it does it for somewhat in the middle. Coincidently for me the engine is noiser about 2,000 to 2,500 rpm. That is, more so than 1,500rpm and 3,000 rpm.

actually, I get some squealing both Aurion Touring and Camry Touring (1999-2002) when doing tight turns in a car park with no bumps and very flat road I just put it down to the road surface (material)

wonder if there is a difference between 2k rev with no load and 2k rev moving the car and how it all fits together that manual tell us not to idle and starting moving straight away

Aurion Touring has Dunlop SP Sport 300E in the reviews Aurion AT-X has the same so the only difference is Alloy wheels are steel wheels heavier or lighter than alloy wheels? if its just a short test drive of AT-X at the dealer, its probably just that you got used to driving the Aurion

oh yeah thats right I heard the figure is 6.8 do you remember the issue, article, author? I don't have those information so I haven't put it in my table yet

2006-XX Toyota: Aurion 7.42s 2007-01 Wheels: Aurion ZR6 7.5s Issue Janurary 2007 2007-08 NRMA: Aurion AT-X 7.0s NRMA Car Review - Toyota Aurion AT-X http://www.mynrma.com.au/cps/rde/xchg/mynr..._car_review.htm 2008-07 CarAdvice: Aurion Presara 6.75s David Twomey Large Car Comparison (Ford-Holden-Honda-Toyota) http://www.caradvice.com.au/14484/ford-vs-...r-comparison/7/ 2008-08 Carpoint: Aurion Prodigy 6.8s Sean Poppitt Ford Falcon G6 vs Holden Commodore Berlina vs Toyota Aurion Prodigy http://www.carpoint.com.au/car-review/2971876.aspx 2008-11 Drive: Aurion AT-X 6.9s Joshua Dowling DCOTY 2008: Best Large Car – The verdict http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleD...112&IsPgd=0 I am still missing Motor's figure

slightly heavier, slightly later torque, slight less gears Large Car Comparison (Ford-Holden-Honda-Toyota) http://www.caradvice.com.au/14484/ford-vs-...r-comparison/5/ says massive 1 sec difference (6.75 vs. 7.72) , but figures were average of 3 runs Accord V6 Luxury is heavier than Accord V6 I guess but it was also Aurion Pressara, 6.75 is almost unbelievable

would that be highly unlikely? Accord is heavier and has 5 speed auto

I believe the situation its complex with so many variables so in the end its different procedures for different purposes follow the manual and you'll be doing what Toyota warranty wants, reliability the product manager would have been shot if it wasn't written for that in mind it also means it might have been written for 6 years reliability not 10 years if they had to choose between as an enthusiast you might have other desires like max power but I am suspicious of the alternate techniques written by people with "decades of experience" or whatever due to the massive envolution of engines and still continuing today

since the displayed number is just an overdrive number when you are in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd and switch to 'S' mode, it display '4' as per usual....and it should do nothing I am more worried about what happens when you are in 5th, or 6th, you switch to 'S' mode, it displays '4'...and does it abruptly change to 4th? as for the accelerating through lights question, yeah guess should just floor it...I try to think its all good like since its almost overpowered for its weight...revving a bit before shifting down might be the faster way for short burst acceleration anyway

toyota site says 30,990 for my postcode is that dealer advertisement or walk-in deal? hehe that would not follow the pattern then Touring has been a "twice a year" thing since it started look on the bright side in the current economic climate we know prices are going to be on gradual decline so its like electronics, you want it then you buy there is no point waiting forever probably because he see you "kicking the tyre" when I did it I told him I don't need a test drive so he knows he was not the first stop you have to think about it from his perspective if he was your first stop, telling you a real price will only push prices down yet highly unlikely to improve his sales this whole bargaining thing is a pain in a non-transparent market, only consumers stand to lose

front camera? thats great where is it mounted?

I think my transmission is not exactly really fast or really smooth but if anything its still quite gentle don't really know if there is a problem can't compare, none of my friends have Aurion

paint protection doesn't really work we already have yellow bird poo marks the lady certainly talk of protecting from bird poo but I bet its in the long list of exclusions lol is there a technique to wash it off? I heard something about applying some wax and rub (even though you normally clean the car thoroughly first) they gave us a small bottle of "reviver" which I applied one month after delivery got the car smooth again, after a few rainy days...gone after that got lazy and didn't wash the car for a month (honey moon was over and so did the weekly car wash) just clean it today and found yellow marks behind the bird poo P.S. I read the forum before we bought the car but family insisted on getting paint protection (it was over $1000 and came with a electric rust prevention thingy)

the foot rest is for you to put your left foot there, all the time to balance yourself in sudden braking and collisions interesting, what are the benefits of accelerating and braking at the same time? how does it balance the car? the argument for left foot braking is the time difference if the time difference is minimal, then to me there is no benefit to left foot braking no it should make no difference to brake light frequency or duration in your implemenation, since you left your left foot on the floor in the other implementation people rest their left foot on brake, the brake light stays on and thats stupid and dangerous you kidding right? man I hope these advanced driving instructors are keeping up to date with new technologies in the brake system and tyres NRMA open road mag just had a dig at parents teaching their kids to pump the brakes, etc old school techniques I am pretty sure they were not referring to the controversial courses like left foot braking and note to left foot braking fans you are not using the tool the way it is designed for I hope you don't hurt anyone

DJKOR your L/100km is still going up have you figured out whats going on yet? are you adding much weight with your mods?

Yeah but to get rid of the split second difference wouldn't you have to keep your left foot on the brakes? Doesn't that lead to worn out brake and brake light always on? Or if you don't let the weight of your left foot fully sit on the brakes, then would that tire your left foot? Your brain can only execute one command at a time, so what happens to the delay in lifting the gas? (the delay being the delay that doesn't exist in right foot braking)

What happens when you are at D on 5th or 6th gear and then shift to S? If you approach the lights with wrong timing and want to go through a yellow light, is there a safe way to quickly downshift one gear?

I think Wheels was the only media reporting above the Toyota official figure of 6.4sec Everyone was lower. Some substantially lower. What was Drive and Motor's Aurion 0-100 figures again?

Yes $7k discount "on paper" or about $3k below RRP is a good deal and achievable. (Search the forum with keyword "driveaway".) Usually It'll be hard for Touring (haven't seen a report of big discount) but in the current climate I say go for it. Whether you should tell them the options you want upfront depends on the dealer. Beware that some dealers charge inflated prices for options so the actual discount is blurred. For me I don't sugguest mentioning Honda Accord or something. I also don't recommend stating a price straight away nor doing the phone calls. You don't want them to feel you're just here to "kick the tyre". You want them to feel you are buying today. After they offer you the 1st price (ridiculously high), be polite (but no need for the fake smile) and unfront that you know the going rate and is here for a quick deal. Try not to show a strong bargaining culture in you. They are sales, they LOVE bargaining. They'll tire you down, milk every dollar out of you and it'll be a painful experience.