Coilover Try out.

[KaZe-]

yeah you can defitnly go lower =] if you need to roll your guards =] but when you go lower go do some figure 8's full locking and see if its scraping

[BONDIE]

yeah you can defitnly go lower =] if you need to roll your guards =] but when you go lower go do some figure 8's full locking and see if its scraping

When you roll guards, do you have to remove the inner black plastic inside the guard. And if you do, how much road grime spits up into your engine bay. I would love to have a Aurion dropped on its ****. But would hate to comprimise engine and stuff.

[Blind Kid Seeks]

i did some study on the k-sport long ago, u can get it for around 1.5k(some guy in perth), but ride quality from what i heard, isnt tat good, tat's why i stayed with pedders..

I know a few years ago there was a place on the gold coast who did air bags, for around 2500 bucks. Dont know if they are still there though.

Fab Tech.... he went bust, from what i remember

[JIN]

Deng..I wen't to garage for wheel alignment today but I couldn't get it done.

They said the lip kit is too low so the sensors couldn't make proper communication between them.

I have no clue about how the wheel alignment works..

I am going to other place tomorrow.. :(

[Freddo]

Deng..I wen't to garage for wheel alignment today but I couldn't get it done.

They said the lip kit is too low so the sensors couldn't make proper communication between them.

I have no clue about how the wheel alignment works..

I am going to other place tomorrow.. :(

hahaha sorry thats just too funny.

do u reckon instead of getting a strut top bar + front and rear sway bars + lowering springs, u could get equal or better handling with just coilies?

coz it would cost about the same fully installed.

[David the Viking]

Just remember that the coil springs of a car are not designed to stop body roll, that is what the swaybars are for. The strut brace is to minimise/stop flex in the strut towers.

By putting a firmer set of standard springs or coilovers you will actually be putting more stress on the suspension mounting points and possibly cause more flex. Which then may require the fittment of a strut brace.

You can make a car with standard springs and uprated swaybars corner/handle better than a car with coilovers and standard swaybars because the roll is being controlled properly. Also if you lower a car to far it can have a negative impact on the roll centre which can cause unpredictable/sudden weight shift when cornering rather then a slow/predictable weigyht shift as the cars body rolls.

I really recomend anyone who wants to change their suspension to have a look at the Whiteline website tech articles. There is a lot of good information there, even though it is not Aurion specific.

Edited February 3, 2009 by SupaTouring

[Freddo]

Just remember that the coil springs of a car are not designed to stop body roll, that is what the swaybars are for. The strut brace is to minimise/stop flex in the strut towers.

By putting a firmer set of standard springs or coilovers you will actually be putting more stress on the suspension mounting points and possibly cause more flex. Which then may require the fittment of a strut brace.

You can make a car with standard springs and uprated swaybars corner/handle better than a car with coilovers and standard swaybars because the roll is being controlled properly. Also if you lower a car to far it can have a negative impact on the roll centre which can cause unpredictable/sudden weight shift when cornering rather then a slow/predictable weigyht shift as the cars body rolls.

I really recomend anyone who wants to change their suspension to have a look at the Whiteline website tech articles. There is a lot of good information there, even though it is not Aurion specific.

Is what your saying applicable to daily drivers/street racers/track car?

Would it reduce the body roll feeling in a daily driver?

[David the Viking]

Just remember that the coil springs of a car are not designed to stop body roll, that is what the swaybars are for. The strut brace is to minimise/stop flex in the strut towers.

By putting a firmer set of standard springs or coilovers you will actually be putting more stress on the suspension mounting points and possibly cause more flex. Which then may require the fittment of a strut brace.

You can make a car with standard springs and uprated swaybars corner/handle better than a car with coilovers and standard swaybars because the roll is being controlled properly. Also if you lower a car to far it can have a negative impact on the roll centre which can cause unpredictable/sudden weight shift when cornering rather then a slow/predictable weigyht shift as the cars body rolls.

I really recomend anyone who wants to change their suspension to have a look at the Whiteline website tech articles. There is a lot of good information there, even though it is not Aurion specific.

Is what your saying applicable to daily drivers/street racers/track car?

Would it reduce the body roll feeling in a daily driver?

It is applicable to all. Yes it will and because the springs haven't been changed the ride will stay the same.

I have replaced the rear swaybar and installed a strut brace on my TRD. Even on the TRD there was a hugh amount of rear roll during cornering which has be minimised with the RSB. The strut brace has made the steering feel more direct and accurate by reducing the flex in the front suspension towers.

[JIN]

Emm...Before we talk about body roll and suspension ability, I guess we have to establish what the daily driving means.

I really have no idea how SupaTouring drives daily, but in my terms of daily driving, 110KM max on freeway + no serious sudden turning.

Generally speaking, many people don't even know what the body rolling is.

People like my parents just think it's got soft and comportable suspensions on their car and I do not really think they need some sway bars or any suspension upgrade.

Meanwhile, as I know, the coilover suspensions and swaybars etc. are originally for racing purpose and they were purely developed for decreasing their lap time.

It's so obvious they help dynamic driving on all cars but I don't really think normal cars on road necessarily need that kind of parts on unless you go to track sometimes with your cars.

hahaha sorry thats just too funny.

do u reckon instead of getting a strut top bar + front and rear sway bars + lowering springs, u could get equal or better handling with just coilies?

coz it would cost about the same fully installed.

If I have to choose one from 'strut top bar + front and rear sway bars + lowering springs' AND 'coilovers', I would pick coilovers because lowering spring could give much more stress on factory suspension and they could be defected quicker and it would result replacing the whole suspensions again.

Just remember that the coil springs of a car are not designed to stop body roll, that is what the swaybars are for. The strut brace is to minimise/stop flex in the strut towers.

By putting a firmer set of standard springs or coilovers you will actually be putting more stress on the suspension mounting points and possibly cause more flex. Which then may require the fittment of a strut brace.

You can make a car with standard springs and uprated swaybars corner/handle better than a car with coilovers and standard swaybars because the roll is being controlled properly. Also if you lower a car to far it can have a negative impact on the roll centre which can cause unpredictable/sudden weight shift when cornering rather then a slow/predictable weigyht shift as the cars body rolls.

I really recomend anyone who wants to change their suspension to have a look at the Whiteline website tech articles. There is a lot of good information there, even though it is not Aurion specific.

Is what your saying applicable to daily drivers/street racers/track car?

Would it reduce the body roll feeling in a daily driver?

It is applicable to all. Yes it will and because the springs haven't been changed the ride will stay the same.

I have replaced the rear swaybar and installed a strut brace on my TRD. Even on the TRD there was a hugh amount of rear roll during cornering which has be minimised with the RSB. The strut brace has made the steering feel more direct and accurate by reducing the flex in the front suspension towers.

I am not denying of SupaTouring's point in suspension theory but the question is how many people on the public road would have serious body rolling or unpredictable/sudden weight shift? unless in situation of racing or any emergency cases.

I've been pulled over by police because the police officer said I was making a very very quick turn at the intersection in the night time but I was turning at around 45KM in the 60KM zone, DUH?.

To sum up, SupaTouring has pointed nicely on suspensions and swaybars, but I doubt all these are REALLY necessary in NORMAL driving conditions.

I believe car manufacturers already have balanced all the car abilities on every subjects for driving so I wouldn't recommend any aftermarket parts UNLESS you want it.

Cheers.

[Freddo]

Emm...Before we talk about body roll and suspension ability, I guess we have to establish what the daily driving means.

I really have no idea how SupaTouring drives daily, but in my terms of daily driving, 110KM max on freeway + no serious sudden turning.

Generally speaking, many people don't even know what the body rolling is.

People like my parents just think it's got soft and comportable suspensions on their car and I do not really think they need some sway bars or any suspension upgrade.

Meanwhile, as I know, the coilover suspensions and swaybars etc. are originally for racing purpose and they were purely developed for decreasing their lap time.

It's so obvious they help dynamic driving on all cars but I don't really think normal cars on road necessarily need that kind of parts on unless you go to track sometimes with your cars.

hahaha sorry thats just too funny.

do u reckon instead of getting a strut top bar + front and rear sway bars + lowering springs, u could get equal or better handling with just coilies?

coz it would cost about the same fully installed.

If I have to choose one from 'strut top bar + front and rear sway bars + lowering springs' AND 'coilovers', I would pick coilovers because lowering spring could give much more stress on factory suspension and they could be defected quicker and it would result replacing the whole suspensions again.

Just remember that the coil springs of a car are not designed to stop body roll, that is what the swaybars are for. The strut brace is to minimise/stop flex in the strut towers.

By putting a firmer set of standard springs or coilovers you will actually be putting more stress on the suspension mounting points and possibly cause more flex. Which then may require the fittment of a strut brace.

You can make a car with standard springs and uprated swaybars corner/handle better than a car with coilovers and standard swaybars because the roll is being controlled properly. Also if you lower a car to far it can have a negative impact on the roll centre which can cause unpredictable/sudden weight shift when cornering rather then a slow/predictable weigyht shift as the cars body rolls.

I really recomend anyone who wants to change their suspension to have a look at the Whiteline website tech articles. There is a lot of good information there, even though it is not Aurion specific.

Is what your saying applicable to daily drivers/street racers/track car?

Would it reduce the body roll feeling in a daily driver?

It is applicable to all. Yes it will and because the springs haven't been changed the ride will stay the same.

I have replaced the rear swaybar and installed a strut brace on my TRD. Even on the TRD there was a hugh amount of rear roll during cornering which has be minimised with the RSB. The strut brace has made the steering feel more direct and accurate by reducing the flex in the front suspension towers.

I am not denying of SupaTouring's point in suspension theory but the question is how many people on the public road would have serious body rolling or unpredictable/sudden weight shift? unless in situation of racing or any emergency cases.

I've been pulled over by police because the police officer said I was making a very very quick turn at the intersection in the night time but I was turning at around 45KM in the 60KM zone, DUH?.

To sum up, SupaTouring has pointed nicely on suspensions and swaybars, but I doubt all these are REALLY necessary in NORMAL driving conditions.

I believe car manufacturers already have balanced all the car abilities on every subjects for driving so I wouldn't recommend any aftermarket parts UNLESS you want it.

Cheers.

exactly what i was eluding to...

i'll just get coilovers if he bc ones get a good review

[David the Viking]

You are right and for most people the factory setup is fine and they will never even think about modifications (my wife's gen 6 Camry falls into this group). Most will never even change their shocks even after they have done 100,000km and they are completely stuffed.

Its just that so many times I read "I have got my new lowered springs and the body roll is so much better" comment that it drives me nuts

I guess the main point I was trying to make is that if you want to stop body roll use a swaybars. If you have a car that feels floaty or soft get uprated springs and shocks to suit. And if you want to tighten up the body use braces.

As for myself the TRD is a daily driver with commuting through suburbia, freeway and inner city, but when I get the opportunity I will drive it how it is meant to be driven :D . I will most likely keep the stock springs in the TRD as I dont think that I would make it my drive way if it was lowered and the fact that the engineers have tuned a great overall package. But I did change the RSB because it had quite a lot of rear roll, and this something that Toyota HQ is conservative about and would not let the engineers do.

I feel that by installing the strut brace and the RSB it has finished off the TRD's handling package and lets it show it's full potential. It is no longer a heavy under steering FWD with excessive power.

[PaulMT]

I have looked into coil overs for my SX6 Aurion.

The BC ones (This is in NZ) I am getting are the same part code C-17 but are gold model that has extra multiple settings available including castor. I'm not sure if JIN's ones had this?

I am getting them from Redline Performance who are the Aus, NZ agents for BC. The company that has done my wheels, tyres and Audio will do the fit and send the car to the alignment specialists for tweaking.

They are $NZ1500 ($AU1875) fitted and a further $NZ499 ($AU624) for certification which includes plate riveted to the fire wall under the bonnet.

So that's $NZ1999 all up legit! ($AU2499) This big difference in price between this and JIN is the certification.

I'm not sure what the legalities are in OZ but here if you don't have certificate done by an independent authority and have the plate fixed to your car

you will have the car "pink slipped" or removed from the road, not to mention fines etc.

Because my car is shuddering in the steering and pulling to the left lately I was going to get a specialist alignment done anyway but have now decided to go ahead with Coil Overs and

specialist alignment covering all points is included in the above price.

I expect a marginal improvement in handling "feel" but I am doing this more for the looks of dropping it down about 40-50mm - and because I can!

Thanks to JIN for all the feedback on his research and final fit.

[JIN]

You are right and for most people the factory setup is fine and they will never even think about modifications (my wife's gen 6 Camry falls into this group). Most will never even change their shocks even after they have done 100,000km and they are completely stuffed.

Its just that so many times I read "I have got my new lowered springs and the body roll is so much better" comment that it drives me nuts

I guess the main point I was trying to make is that if you want to stop body roll use a swaybars. If you have a car that feels floaty or soft get uprated springs and shocks to suit. And if you want to tighten up the body use braces.

..

Yeah. Also, I am thinking to get braces for front top and rear. maybe 2~3months later? coz I am so broke now. :D

I have looked into coil overs for my SX6 Aurion.

The BC ones (This is in NZ) I am getting are the same part code C-17 but are gold model that has extra multiple settings available including castor. I'm not sure if JIN's ones had this?

I am getting them from Redline Performance who are the Aus, NZ agents for BC. The company that has done my wheels, tyres and Audio will do the fit and send the car to the alignment specialists for tweaking.

They are $NZ1500 ($AU1875) fitted and a further $NZ499 ($AU624) for certification which includes plate riveted to the fire wall under the bonnet.

So that's $NZ1999 all up legit! ($AU2499) This big difference in price between this and JIN is the certification.

I'm not sure what the legalities are in OZ but here if you don't have certificate done by an independent authority and have the plate fixed to your car

you will have the car "pink slipped" or removed from the road, not to mention fines etc.

Because my car is shuddering in the steering and pulling to the left lately I was going to get a specialist alignment done anyway but have now decided to go ahead with Coil Overs and

specialist alignment covering all points is included in the above price.

I expect a marginal improvement in handling "feel" but I am doing this more for the looks of dropping it down about 40-50mm - and because I can!

Thanks to JIN for all the feedback on his research and final fit.

Thanks mate.

About the certificate, in NZ, as I know, any modifications should be certified for WOF which is pretty same as Pinkslip in Australia.

I am not quite sure wether Australia has similar system or not.

Someone please advise me on this because it's gonna be an issue when I have to get pinkslip later on.

In Nz, you may have to be certified from proper mechanic for any modifications but when I was in NZ it only cost about NZ$250~300.

It sounds like big margins in certification to me.

What I did is I contacted one of the main distributors in NZ and he put my order directly through the factory in Taiwan.

There's no certification or any fitting. I only paid for suspension parts and shipping cost. I paid $200 extra for fitting from garage so I paid roughly $1400 in total.

BTW, my front top mounts are gold too. You should have seen same model as one I had.

[Blind Kid Seeks]

I have looked into coil overs for my SX6 Aurion.

The BC ones (This is in NZ) I am getting are the same part code C-17 but are gold model that has extra multiple settings available including castor. I'm not sure if JIN's ones had this?

I am getting them from Redline Performance who are the Aus, NZ agents for BC. The company that has done my wheels, tyres and Audio will do the fit and send the car to the alignment specialists for tweaking.

They are $NZ1500 ($AU1875) fitted and a further $NZ499 ($AU624) for certification which includes plate riveted to the fire wall under the bonnet.

So that's $NZ1999 all up legit! ($AU2499) This big difference in price between this and JIN is the certification.

I'm not sure what the legalities are in OZ but here if you don't have certificate done by an independent authority and have the plate fixed to your car

you will have the car "pink slipped" or removed from the road, not to mention fines etc.

Because my car is shuddering in the steering and pulling to the left lately I was going to get a specialist alignment done anyway but have now decided to go ahead with Coil Overs and

specialist alignment covering all points is included in the above price.

I expect a marginal improvement in handling "feel" but I am doing this more for the looks of dropping it down about 40-50mm - and because I can!

Thanks to JIN for all the feedback on his research and final fit.

your conversions there are a bit wrong mate $1500 NZD is $1200 AUD.. and so on .. and so forth

EDIT: I've done ALOT of reading on thse coilovers.. and have heard heaps of people compare them to the Cusco's and the build quality is excellent, and people mentioning they are built for Greddy... i am getting mighty tempted to give these a go.

[JIN]

OK guys.

I found first error on BC racing coilovers.

Here is a pic of it.

The problem is, if you see the 3 bolts on top mount and manual picture, the 3 bolts position on the top mount angle is a bit wierd and rotated.

It seems like the 3 bolts positions are opposite way around between right and left sides.

However, if you see the camry suspension manual from sticky post, the setup is same as my aurion.

I am not going to do camber adjustment but can anyone tell me how that rotated angle could affect the suspensions?

Edit: BTW the coilovers are on right positions. in this case, can I just swap the left suspension to right? Any problems with swapping front suspensions?

Edited February 5, 2009 by JIN

[PaulMT]

your conversions there are a bit wrong mate $1500 NZD is $1200 AUD.. and so on .. and so forth

EDIT: I've done ALOT of reading on thse coilovers.. and have heard heaps of people compare them to the Cusco's and the build quality is excellent, and people mentioning they are built for Greddy... i am getting mighty tempted to give these a go.

Ooops *#@&* your right, I went the wrong way

[David the Viking]

The coilover struts will be a left or right so you wont be able to just swap them. What I think you need to do is remove the fronts so that you can turn the pillow mount 120 deg and then reinstall them. Drivers side 120 deg anti clockwise and passenger side 120 deg clockwise. The diagram of the pillow mounts look like they are 180 deg out for the Camry/Aurion.

[JIN]

The coilover struts will be a left or right so you wont be able to just swap them. What I think you need to do is remove the fronts so that you can turn the pillow mount 120 deg and then reinstall them. Drivers side 120 deg anti clockwise and passenger side 120 deg clockwise. The diagram of the pillow mounts look like they are 180 deg out for the Camry/Aurion.

Thanks mate.

I think the mechanic put them in wrong way maybe..if they fit in your way.

going to garage tomorrow again. :(

[David the Viking]

Hope it works out for you tomorrow

[JIN]

OK. I've been to garage today for fixing it up and made a change on it.

Unfortunately, the top mounts are not straight still.

It seems like it would be a bit hard to do the camber adjustment.

Still 20~30 degrees rotated from where it should be.

I am just wondering, are they all OK if I don't do the camber adjustment? coz I really have no plan to do it at all and just wanna make sure these are fine with that.

Here are BEFORE & AFTER PIC.

Before

After

[Blind Kid Seeks]

looks much better than it was IMO

[JIN]

Just a quick update of coilovers.

During the weekend, I've been to another garage for wheel alignment.

They had a look at the suspension and gave me a bit of advice.

The coilovers would do the same functionalities as any other coilovers without camber adjustment if I don't do any camber adjustment, so it should be fine they said.

I might be able to do a little bit of cambers, but I am not interested in it at all for now.

I paid $75 for all wheels aligned. I felt it was a bit expensive but had no choice because it was saturday and no time to go other places.

Any other good places for wheel alignment and suspensions near Homebush and Paramatta?

No scrubbing(with 4people in my car), no noise or no leaking appeared yet. So far, so good(apart from the top mounts).

Cheers.

[PaulMT]

Just a quick update of coilovers.

During the weekend, I've been to another garage for wheel alignment.

They had a look at the suspension and gave me a bit of advice.

The coilovers would do the same functionalities as any other coilovers without camber adjustment if I don't do any camber adjustment, so it should be fine they said.

I might be able to do a little bit of cambers, but I am not interested in it at all for now.

I paid $75 for all wheels aligned. I felt it was a bit expensive but had no choice because it was saturday and no time to go other places.

Any other good places for wheel alignment and suspensions near Homebush and Paramatta?

No scrubbing(with 4people in my car), no noise or no leaking appeared yet. So far, so good(apart from the top mounts).

Cheers.

I've been waiting for you to "report back" before I go ahead with my coil overs (The same as yours)

What is the problem that means you can't get them aligned up properly?

If the Camry 06+ is the same as the Aurion I don't understand whats causing the issue??

I have to say I asked Redline Performance to state that the coil over model you used was ok for an Aurion but they wouldn't confirm or deny.

Do you need to have your cars suspension certified if it is modified to get your rego'? In NZ we have to have a certification to make the modification legit and I am worried that if they don't sit right this could fail although I agree with what your saying as I wouldn't go so low as to need extra camber either.

[DJKOR]

I agree with what your saying as I wouldn't go so low as to need extra camber either.

That is a good idea I would say. With the look of the coilovers and how it sits at the mount, it doesn't look like camber adjustment would be easy in the first place. That would give it some odd angle.

[JIN]

..If the Camry 06+ is the same as the Aurion I don't understand whats causing the issue??..

1. I guess, the problem with coilovers is, the top mounts of the coilovers are not matching exactly.

They are working fine but the problems are the 3 bolts positions or the angle of the camber adjustment part as pics above.

The possibilities that I am thknking is, BC racing has put the wrong side indicator stickers on coilovers(haven't tried to swap left and right so I am not 100% sure.) or the coilovers come like that which is BC racing made them wrong.

The other possibility is, the coilovers are from Taiwan and the top mounts from camry 06+ are different with our aurion and camry in Australia and NZ.

I haven't contacted the seller because the suspension guy said it'd be ok without camber adjustment.

What is the problem that means you can't get them aligned up properly?..

2.The problem was the lipkit.

The bodykit was low and it blocked the signal so the sensors couldn't communicate properly for proper alingment.

EDIT: So there is nothing about suspensions on this issue.

That is what I was told.

..Do you need to have your cars suspension certified if it is modified to get your rego'? In NZ we have to have a certification to make the modification legit and I am worried that if they don't sit right this could fail although I agree with what your saying as I wouldn't go so low as to need extra camber either.

3.I don't think we have any cerfitified required on suspension changes in OZ?(correct me if I am wrong).

Don't count me in this but what I would say is it would be ok if you don't do camber adjustment.

EDIT: I will just leave them as they are and if BC racing makes the proper top mounts for my aurion, then I will propably get the top mounts replaced later.

Since the coilovers can be disassembled in parts and reassembled back easily if I have proper tools.

Edited February 9, 2009 by JIN