Jump to content

Gearbox oil and Gear shifting problems

CTS03

By CTS03
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

MT Grand Master

MT

Posted
Posted
It'll feel good for a while, a year more or less, then it'll be even worse.

Just like bonking a.... never mind.

What oil should I use in my box then, oh mighty one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

Posted
Posted
What oil should I use in my box then, oh mighty one?

I'm using the Motul Semi-Synthetic without any issues. But any of the other big brands will be fine. I'll have to annoy SB for some of this Roil stuff.

I'm told by a reputable race engine/gearbox shop that the issue with the Redline shockproof is the oil is too slippery for the synchros to do their thing. Hence why it shouldn't be used in a synchro gearbox.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
What oil should I use in my box then, oh mighty one?

I'm using the Motul Semi-Synthetic without any issues. But any of the other big brands will be fine. I'll have to annoy SB for some of this Roil stuff.

I'm told by a reputable race engine/gearbox shop that the issue with the Redline is the oil is too slippery for the synchros to do their thing. Hence why it shouldn't be used in a synchro gearbox.

Yet, some forum users use it like holy water here. Hmmmm ...............

So no redline oils at all or just the shockproof?

Which is better to use? MT90? Motul?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted

From http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=7

MT-90

Popular in Nissan, Toyota and Mazda manual transmissions and transaxles as well as other selected applications, this is a 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil that’s slightly heavier than MTL. Provides excellent protection of gears and synchronizers and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coefficient of friction, allowing easier shifting.

From http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

Lightweight ShockProof®

A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil.

Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
aaronsu Collaborator

aaronsu

Posted
Posted

just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

How much and from where?

My 3 bottle of lightweight shockproof cost me about 30 ++ each. Can't remember now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

Posted
Posted
Yet, some forum users use it like holy water here. Hmmmm ...............

So no redline oils at all or just the shockproof?

Which is better to use? MT90? Motul?

The oil in question is the Shockproof, I haven't tried the MT90. If I had a gearbox with no synchros I would use the Shockproof as it is a great oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
aaronsu Collaborator

aaronsu

Posted
Posted
just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

How much and from where?

My 3 bottle of lightweight shockproof cost me about 30 ++ each. Can't remember now.

it cost about the same as the shockproof, about 103 all up. i bought them from burson autoparts in sunshine.

watch out if you're going to get it from the burson branch in west melbourne, there's this idiot who didn't know that there was a type of redline oil called mt90, yet didn't want to admit it, telling me there was no such thing. he was only convinced after he rang his supplier. and he tried to make me buy a 4 litre bottle of lightweight shockproof, telling me it was the mt90, because they didn't have the mt90 in stock, while what i asked for was three 1 litre bottles of mt90, cause that was all I needed. like how stupid can this guy get? i was pretty ticked off and was like: screw it. i left and rang up the sunshine branch, took a drive there 2 hrs later and all done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
just put in 2 and a quarter bottles of mt90 a few weeks ago. costs fairly more compared to others, but the shifting was just so smooth! highly recommended!

How much and from where?

My 3 bottle of lightweight shockproof cost me about 30 ++ each. Can't remember now.

it cost about the same as the shockproof, about 103 all up. i bought them from burson autoparts in sunshine.

watch out if you're going to get it from the burson branch in west melbourne, there's this idiot who didn't know that there was a type of redline oil called mt90, yet didn't want to admit it, telling me there was no such thing. he was only convinced after he rang his supplier. and he tried to make me buy a 4 litre bottle of lightweight shockproof, telling me it was the mt90, because they didn't have the mt90 in stock, while what i asked for was three 1 litre bottles of mt90, cause that was all I needed. like how stupid can this guy get? i was pretty ticked off and was like: screw it. i left and rang up the sunshine branch, took a drive there 2 hrs later and all done.

No worries. Sth Eastern Suburb. Will go to the springvale one to catch it. The nxt service due this year end. Will fix it up then. Won't be too late I hope .......... Does anyone know how long do we leave the gearbox oil in for? 50,000 KM ? 2 years?

Driving style is to and from work with occasional track and the LIFT !

Link to comment
Share on other sites
CME-LFT Veteran

CME-LFT

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i bought 3 litres of castrol sytrax, and got my gearbox oil changed.

My mechanic only ended up using just UNDER two bottles,(trustworthy mechanic mind you, he knows what hes doing) he drained out the old and filled up the new as much as he could and just ended up using ALMOST and i mean ALMOST 2 bottles (maybe 10ml left)

Its true though, i did notice that it doesnt seem too well suited in the cold, but when its warm it feels alot better than before the oil change.

One question though, i noticed that lately its been hard to get into 1 (once completely stopped), and most of the time i either have to roll the car a bit to get it to go in or clutch it again. Is it normal for the sportivo boxes? or have my synchros had it from the last owner?

P.s when you guys do hit lift, what revs do u most commonly bring it to? nothing to do with gearbox problems, just out of curiousity on how you treat your car.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites
blublu Advancing

blublu

Posted
Posted

I just picked up a stivo a few months back too, had serious clutch and gear change issues. Changed to Exedy HD clutch and at first had Castrol oil in there, but gear changes wasn't smooth, still clunky and at times quite hard to shift still.

Brought it to West Racing Motor Dev in Oz Park in Perth - changed to redline MTL 70W80 GL4 (on recommendation by the head mech as I don't drive it that hard) and it is now a MILLION times better. It never crunches on gear changes anymore nor do I struggle getting it in gear after lift, shifting is smooth as silk and I am not just saying that. The difference is seriously night and day for me. I don't know if this honeymoon is going to last, but it's been going well and smooth for over a month now so I am a happy redline convert! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
aaronsu Collaborator

aaronsu

Posted
Posted
Hey guys, i bought 3 litres of castrol sytrax, and got my gearbox oil changed.

My mechanic only ended up using just UNDER two bottles,(trustworthy mechanic mind you, he knows what hes doing) he drained out the old and filled up the new as much as he could and just ended up using ALMOST and i mean ALMOST 2 bottles (maybe 10ml left)

Its true though, i did notice that it doesnt seem too well suited in the cold, but when its warm it feels alot better than before the oil change.

One question though, i noticed that lately its been hard to get into 1 (once completely stopped), and most of the time i either have to roll the car a bit to get it to go in or clutch it again. Is it normal for the sportivo boxes? or have my synchros had it from the last owner?

P.s when you guys do hit lift, what revs do u most commonly bring it to? nothing to do with gearbox problems, just out of curiousity on how you treat your car.

Thanks guys

that's odd, i watched as my mechanic filled up my gearbox and he finished 2 bottles and was still going, probably after another quarter of a bottle more, then it started to overflow. i reckon for yours it probably wasn't fully emptied before the new oil was put in.

since i got my sportivo, it never felt comfortable going into 1st gear right away. I was told to get into 2nd or any other gear when I wanted to go into 1st or reverse, I found that it smoothened it out heaps, and I didn't get the crunch from switching into reverse anymore. apparently this was done to 'baby' older alfa romeo gearboxes that always broke (i think they still do quite regularly, and helped lengthen their life.

Give it a go, and let us know how it goes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted

Roil Roil Roil

We want Roil Roil Roil

Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil Roil

:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted

Try to maintain LIFT while shifting from 1st to 2nd. I can't anymore. It was stuck whilst trying to go to 2nd. Damn it. Damn gear oil don't work no more. Doesn't shift good. Need changing.

Everyone here talks about adjusting the clutch. Is it adjusting the clutch or the clutch pedal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
royal purple FTW !!!!!!!!

use it in my gearbox & my engine ;) ;) ;)

Nice, will be adjusting my clutch tomorrow based on this http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...ost&p=29995

and then we'll see how. Will definately order a SS soon as I want to get this shifting right before I do anything else.

Which Royal Purple products do u use for engine and gear box oil?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kenji Experienced

Kenji

Posted
Posted

Alright guys, I'd been able to maintain lift when I first got my corolla back in 04. The shift from 1st to 2nd was difficult so I took it to Toyota and it was fixed up. They must have adjusted the clutch and clutch pedal back then. Since 05 I haven't been lifting or trying to maintain lift and with the recent installation of the TRD CAI I got in the GB that just passed, I tried to do it and the 1st -> 2nd shift is so hard it's made it impossible to maintain lift. But maintaining lift 2nd -> 3rd and above is simple.

80,000km on the odo and I just changed my transmission oil to RP maxgear 75w90. Same problem but it's alittle smoother. Just checked the clutch pedal and pressure points and its all fine according to http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...ost&p=29995 :(

Could it be my synchros seeing that I can maintain lift from 2nd onwards? Time to upgrade to Exedy HD clutch? Or just need a mechanic to properly adjust the shifter cables and clutch etc?

Any advice would be great thanx. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tEeevo Collaborator

tEeevo

Posted
Posted

i advise not to adjust your clutch pedals guys, its always preset from factory. the freeplay that matters is that 1.0mm at the pedal stop. which if you (by hand) wiggle your clutch pedal gently you feel that freeplay. the freeplay for the clutch resistance is due to your clutch (type-standard,heavy duty, or how worn) hydraulic systems dont need adjusting, only the old cars with clutch cables.if you find your friction point way out, could be worn clutch or aftermarket clutch. if you adjust up your pedal improperly you can cause premature wear on clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, thrust bearing, and even cause your clutch to burn if bad enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guni Grand Master

Guni

Posted
Posted
i advise not to adjust your clutch pedals guys, its always preset from factory. the freeplay that matters is that 1.0mm at the pedal stop. which if you (by hand) wiggle your clutch pedal gently you feel that freeplay. the freeplay for the clutch resistance is due to your clutch (type-standard,heavy duty, or how worn) hydraulic systems dont need adjusting, only the old cars with clutch cables.if you find your friction point way out, could be worn clutch or aftermarket clutch. if you adjust up your pedal improperly you can cause premature wear on clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, thrust bearing, and even cause your clutch to burn if bad enough.

AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!! , you are too late. Alraedy done it. Don't feel any diff .........

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kenji Experienced

Kenji

Posted
Posted

I didn't touch the pedal, just measured everything and it was like it stated it should be in the link. But yeah with 2 days of wear with the new RP maxgear 75w90 gear oil, shifting from 1st to 2nd at 8krpm still is sticky and can't do it fast :(

I want it fixed so I can stay in the powerband :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kenji Experienced

Kenji

Posted
Posted

I guess I'll just live with it for now and when I'm at 110,000km then I'll get a exedy HD clutch and hope for the best. From reading all the posts on the forum about the sticky 1st -> 2nd shifting I'm just going through what everyone has stated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 17

      Wobble at the front

      Vibration under acceleration is quite commonly due to a failing CV axle. I had it happen on my old Aurion where coasting would be fine and under acceleration/load it would start to vibrate quite violently.
      • 1
      • Thanks
      Baxter190388 in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
    2. 7

      Brake issues

      Had the rear rotors machined. So far have travelled under 10k kms and the problem has come back, albeit not as bad. Will have a chat with the guy who machined the rotors and DBA also. Maybe need to replace with genuine Toyota items.
      larry200 in Landcruiser Club
    3. 10

      Best Oil for 2014 Lancruiser GXL 200 series TT V8 Diesel

      Hi Ross, we have a 2013 Landcruiser. Played with various oils and concluded that 5W30 Synthetic is the best option. Nulon seems to be on special often, GW is also good. Castrol Magnatec not really suitable for a diesel. Penrite is also good but try and stick to a full synthetic. No real need to change oil at 5000 Kms unless you worked the engine towing. I found that the oil level dropped when using the gearbox to slow down like you do in a manual. Other then that no oil use at 140k kms. Best oil is AMSOIL, but unduly expensive. Controversial but I swear by it is a 'catch can'. If you don't have one, get one but the right one for the car. Initially I was skeptical about its purpose but am sorry I did not get one from the beginning (new). If you check the design of the engine, the cam chain run just below the PCV valve. IMHO this promotes oils being flung into the PCV valve and hence the inlet tract. A catch can will catch that oil - no pun intended.
      larry200 in Landcruiser Club
    4. 25

      RADIO CODES "HELP"

      Código de radio la mi carro Toyota Corolla 2010
      Wedner in Audio/Video/Electronics
    5. 17

      Wobble at the front

      My 2011 V6 Aurion is doing the same vibration and wheel wobble under acceleration I replaced all the tyres had it checked over by mechanics not sure whats wrong after reading all the above conversations it's a mystery what it could be 🤔 Please let me know any possible answers ? Cheers ETW 777
      ETW777 in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
    6. 11

      rear wheel arch hole covers (3rd row seats removed)

      I ordered the Booxe Gap Caps from South Africa. Way better quality than the ones from Nautica. A little more expensive but looks way better installed. FYI one 3rd row seat weighs 15.4kg's that's a weight saving of nearly 31kgs with both removed.
      Whatbro in Fortuner Club
    7. 1

      2013 Kluger grande Bluetooth music issues

      I have a 2011 Grande and it is not possible to play music via the bluetooth without using the aux connection. I bought this product which makes it a wireless bluetooth experience. https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0BG2GMH8S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title This device connects to your phone via bluetooth and connects to the car via the aux connection. For me, once the car starts it all connects up, I say Hey Google, play music and the car plays music without having to connect my phone to any cables.
      Kombi17 in Kluger Club
    8. 0

      2010 MANUAL Prado with high speed acceleration hickup

      I have a 2010 manual Prado with 196,000 km that has excellent service history Injectors were done at 130,000 km and today I replaced the fuel filters as a first step for this issue. The car pretty well drives perfectly and I have no issues with it Other than if I'm sitting at 110 km an hour and put my foot down it hesitates for a second like a cough. It only does it at this speed. If I'm sitting on 100 and accelerate it doesn't do it and same with any other speeds like 60 or 80 put my foot down it's fine, only does it at 110. Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Thank you
      Steppenwolf in Prado Club
    9. 0

      Fuel filter change - start stops running

      We recently completed a service a few weeks ago. Following this, a warning light indicated water in the filter. We replaced the filter, but subsequently encountered starting issues. After replacing the battery, the car eventually started. However, after running for about five minutes, it stalled as if it had run out of diesel. We have primed the filter, engine starts but then car stops again. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
      Cara in Landcruiser Club
    10. 10

      Best Oil for 2014 Lancruiser GXL 200 series TT V8 Diesel

      My 2008 Sahara has 630,000 km on original engine and injectors. I run Gulf Western Top Dog 10w 40 semi synthetic oil, spec is CJ4 low Ash . Last EGR inspection at 400,000km revealed no soot. Engine still has same oil pressure as new and great fuel economy....Top Dog oil is for heavy duty truck diesel engines, not cheap but neither is a new engine..20K plus.
      B1RD1E in Landcruiser Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership