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power upgrades for '05 stivo


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Hi people's

I have just bought an '05 sportivo (love it)and am planning my upgrade process. this forum has been very helpful with CAI's, but I need some help with a few things.

~who makes a decent 2.5'-3' full exhaust system? and how much should I expect to pay?

~I have seen dyno sheets for a standard Stivo and there is a massive torque hole in the mid range, are there computer mods to fix this? I would love to get torque up to around 250nm (if thats possible without a blower) <_<

~Is there any known way of lowering the lift kick in from 6000rpm to something like 5500rpm?

Cheers for the help.

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Lowering the lift kick in would not help you. Lift effectively locks the valves open at maximum capacity, if you were to do this before your revs are up high you would effectively flood your motor.

Having no reread your email it seems you only want to lower by 500rpm. Why so?? is this to hold lift on the 1 - 2 change?? if so there are threads on this forum explaining how to hold lift on the change without needing to lower where lift kicks in. I believe from posts on here a new exhaust system on our cars makes little difference (Can someone else confirm this, im just going off my memory of what I have seen posted on here).

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From what i've read in the searches the most cost effective way to give your sportivo a kick in the butt is to use a CAI of your choice and team it up with a CES stainless exhaust. From memory CES claim 6-9kw at the wheels from the pipe alone, but that doesnt answer your torque question.

I can't remember the rough figures of gain to expect with the combo but a search might turn that up.

Alternatively some people with this combo might be kind enough to post up the gains that they are enjoying.

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~who makes a decent 2.5'-3' full exhaust system? and how much should I expect to pay?

CES

~I have seen dyno sheets for a standard Stivo and there is a massive torque hole in the mid range, are there computer mods to fix this? I would love to get torque up to around 250nm (if thats possible without a blower) <_<

250Nm for a sub 2L engine is asking a lot for an NA. for a stock engine to make 250Nm NA, it's usually around the 2.4L to 3L displacement engines.

~Is there any known way of lowering the lift kick in from 6000rpm to something like 5500rpm?

wat for?

Edited by shaohaok
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unichip!!!!!!!!!

This will probably work out the torque curve very well for you.

CAI and CES will also work well for you but will end up costing more....although the sound from the combined two of these is pure BLISS!!!

Thanks. :D

Do you know anyone who has done such work?

What should I expect if I use CAI, CES and uni-chip, then Dyno it.

Is the tuning process complicated or can it be done easily at the dyno?

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~Is there any known way of lowering the lift kick in from 6000rpm to something like 5500rpm?

wat for?

I have read that if the lift kicked in @ 5500rpm the it would be a much better car. Do you think not?

the only guys that tried this were in the US and when it was time for actual results they have nothing...

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A piggy back or full replacement ECU will yield good results and combined with other bolt-ons like CAI, full 2.25-2.5inch exhaust (3 inch is too large/noisy for a NA 1800cc motor) you can expect to get between 125-130kw @ wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno (which is approx 160kw @ flywheel).

Another good way to feel like you have more torque is reduce the weight of the car but do it sensibly as it can throw off the car's handling balance. Having a lighter flywheel also helps.

Finally if money is not an issue and you can always contact TRD and stroke the car to 2000cc. ;)

Z

Edited by ZEEROLLA
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~Is there any known way of lowering the lift kick in from 6000rpm to something like 5500rpm?

wat for?

I have read that if the lift kicked in @ 5500rpm the it would be a much better car. Do you think not?

y stop at 5500rpm? i'd like lift to start at 2200rpm, with the same kick it has at 6000rpm, and pull the same way all the way to 8200rpm. hrm, then why would i need the L in the vvtL-i?

there is a reason y it starts at 6000rpm. making lift kick in before 6000rpm would create another torque hole, coz it's not within the optimum range of the second cam profile. although 5500rpm is not very unreasonable, the only reason i have known ppl to have adjusted the lift point to 5500rpm is coz the track they were RACING on, 6000rpm made them sit between gears and trading a bit of power for smoothness and saving time for shifts made it beneficial. but it's only at some tracks.

if u want to stay in the powerband between shifts for drag racing, set a higher redline, or use some new ratios.

hope that helps B)

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A piggy back or full replacement ECU will yield good results and combined with other bolt-ons like CAI, full 2.25-2.5inch exhaust (3 inch is too large/noisy for a NA 1800cc motor) you can expect to get between 125-130kw @ wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno (which is approx 160kw @ flywheel).

Another good way to feel like you have more torque is reduce the weight of the car but do it sensibly as it can throw off the car's handling balance.  Having a lighter flywheel also helps.

Finally if money is not an issue and you can always contact TRD and stroke the car to 2000cc.  ;)

Z

now that zee's mentioned it, the lighter flywhel, contrary to wat most ppl say on other cars, makes this car feel torqueyer(spelling?). the car pulls itself along a lot more easily and responds so much better when u stab the throttle.

and zee, u don't really have to contact TRD to stroke the 2zz, a place in melb already sells the kit for a 2zzge in clubmans ;)

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A piggy back or full replacement ECU will yield good results and combined with other bolt-ons like CAI, full 2.25-2.5inch exhaust (3 inch is too large/noisy for a NA 1800cc motor) you can expect to get between 125-130kw @ wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno (which is approx 160kw @ flywheel).

Another good way to feel like you have more torque is reduce the weight of the car but do it sensibly as it can throw off the car's handling balance.  Having a lighter flywheel also helps.

Finally if money is not an issue and you can always contact TRD and stroke the car to 2000cc.  ;)

Z

now that zee's mentioned it, the lighter flywhel, contrary to wat most ppl say on other cars, makes this car feel torqueyer(spelling?). the car pulls itself along a lot more easily and responds so much better when u stab the throttle.

and zee, u don't really have to contact TRD to stroke the 2zz, a place in melb already sells the kit for a 2zzge in clubmans ;)

Serious!? You got some pricing on that Shao? There is this guy around my area that also claimed to have stroked his 2zz and have close ratio gears in his Lotus Exige but he didn't mention where he got the stroker kit from. He only told eme he could do the same to my Stivo ;)

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CES + CAI(TRD) nothing else gives you between 115kw - 120kw atw depending on the car and dyno.

Add the unichip and get between 125 and 130kw at the wheels.

CES and CAI does improve the torque considerably but the unichip can almost remove it altogether. :D

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Hi Slurdog,

there was another post floating around regarding lowering lift point.... I provided some in-depth insight ....( well i think it was ;) ;)) as to what you should do with your lift point.... Couldnt track down the post quickly so u could try and look up posts made by me....

As for what everyone else has said.... Total agree....

cheers

Bill

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~Is there any known way of lowering the lift kick in from 6000rpm to something like 5500rpm?

wat for?

I have read that if the lift kicked in @ 5500rpm the it would be a much better car. Do you think not?

y stop at 5500rpm? i'd like lift to start at 2200rpm, with the same kick it has at 6000rpm, and pull the same way all the way to 8200rpm. hrm, then why would i need the L in the vvtL-i?

there is a reason y it starts at 6000rpm. making lift kick in before 6000rpm would create another torque hole, coz it's not within the optimum range of the second cam profile. although 5500rpm is not very unreasonable, the only reason i have known ppl to have adjusted the lift point to 5500rpm is coz the track they were RACING on, 6000rpm made them sit between gears and trading a bit of power for smoothness and saving time for shifts made it beneficial. but it's only at some tracks.

if u want to stay in the powerband between shifts for drag racing, set a higher redline, or use some new ratios.

hope that helps B)

That does help heaps, Thanks.

Setting a higher redline, I guess i would be able to do that with the uni-chip, yeah? ;)

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