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Oil Change please help


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FUCH'S is rubbish,, awesome for the engine but boy does it give you mega problems in the transmission area so much feedback its not funny.. i dont enjoy it at all

I went for my first REAL drive with it tonight and it was starting to smell a bit too, but I assumed it was the new Gear Oil that was put in. The feel from the Penrite 10 10ths is great and very slick when warm but is still notchy when cold.

I've found that I get a bit of feedback through the steering wheel with the FUCHS engine oil, didn't notice the feedback through the transmission like you mentioned.

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hmmm i got slightly confused with a few past posts but now i realise that the whole topic isnt only engine oils

you guys are commenting on gear oils too

i think ill leave that one to the professionals

actually now that i think about it

when changing gear oils for the stivos is there anything you need to be careful of

i mean like is it as simple as dumping the oil and filling i back up again with the right gear oil OR is there a special additive you need to put with it as i know some cars need additives mixed with the gear oils too to keep the transmission smooth and stop it from braking basicly LOL

i ask this cus i have a friend mechanic who can do all that stuff for me anyways

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hmmmmm

seems like 10W30 is the way everybody is going and i beleive you all when you say thats what toyota recomends

but just for my own peace of mind ill call them tomoz morning before i buy the oil and change it just to be certain

as for brand i have herd ALOT of good things about a brand of oil not very common to many people at all

its called royal purple and it cant be baught hardly anywhere but i used it in my UTE and it felt vewry smooth

so i guess i am gonna go the Royal Purple again for the STIVO too

and ill just drop into penrith toyota and grab an oil filter off them too

does anybody recommend an oil flush to be used or should i not worry about it

cheers guys

Justin again from what i heard from Best Motoring <_< they don't reccomend flushng oils, actually they say NEVER use them as although they flush out the little metal bits in the engine, when fushing these tiny bits can lodge in the seams and tiny gaps in the engine. Hence they say NEVER use them!

Anybody here has experience with flushing oils?

Z

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Flush oils are a thin mineral-base oil.

They are too thin for our high rpm engines.

If you want to do a flush (I reckon its a good idea, and did it to my stivo when i switched to mobil1 after the 30,000 service- when the engine was fully run in) do it with the oil you intend to use in the long run, with filter, and change it after 1000 to 1500 k's.

Its an expensive way to do it, but i can't think of a better way.

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I will also add, that the stivo DRANK 0.4L of the mobil1 in 1200k's when i first changed it over........ it was a bit strange.

When I ran the next batch for 10,000k it only used 0.5L, and has stayed that way since.

Now the engine has done 60,000k's and never felt better.

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hey guys oil change is done i used 5w40 and no engine flush its full synthetic

i actually forget what brand i used LOL but the spare oil is sitting in the garage i can look later if anyone really wants to know

it wasnt a brand anyone had posted here ealrier

it cost me $56 for 5L that was a special i think its usually $64 for 5L or something like that

oh by the way i didnt use the engine flush

cheers guys

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Flush oils are a thin mineral-base oil.

They are too thin for our high rpm engines.

If you want to do a flush (I reckon its a good idea, and did it to my stivo when i switched to mobil1 after the 30,000 service- when the engine was fully run in)  do it with the oil you intend to use in the long run, with filter, and change it after 1000 to 1500 k's.

Its an expensive way to do it, but i can't think of a better way.

I will also add, that the stivo DRANK 0.4L of the mobil1 in 1200k's when i first changed it over........ it was a bit strange.

When I ran the next batch for 10,000k it only used 0.5L, and has stayed that way since.

Now the engine has done 60,000k's and never felt better.

The 2ZZ-GE engine is a highly strung "precision" engine!

Precision engines such as these will have their pistons and other internals fitting more 'snugly' (for need of a better word).

As a result you need a thinner oil to penetrate the gaps and protect. Many people think that a thicker oil will offer better protection but its not always the case.

I use Castrol Formula R 5w-30w and it doesnt use a drop, ever!

We run Castrol Magnatec in my girlfriends 1ZZ-FE (conveniently our dealership uses it) and it doesnt use a drop either.

I do oil and filter changes on each every 5000km and as long as I use a genuine filter there is no issue.

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