Is this a safe purchase ?

[METAL13]

I want to know if you would say this is a safe purchase off Ebay, it Contains:

http://www.ebay.com....=item19c3dbb54c

2 x PBR Brakes 296mm Front slotted RDA Rotors Suit GSV40 V6 2006-Present.

1 x Set of RDX EXTREME brake pads.

$210 + $20 delivery = $230 totoal to my door.

• My dad thinks that is rather cheap ( and possibly nasty ) hence the question here.
  
• Yes i know there is brake questions threads and the like but this is a serious question.
  
• All opinions are appreciated <3
  

Thanks METAL13 :D

[trentmeyer23]

Check feedback, other than that, who knows.

[METAL13]

Feedback is

706 buyers ( covers all different brake parts for all other models ie Holden, Ford, Toyota etc) all gave 100% positive feedback

5 buyers total for the particular set i want - All gave 100% positive feedback.

To me it looks like a bargin, but as i said above just want to double check with the TOC Aurion Family members :)

[Andrew357]

RDA rotors are much cheaper compared to their DBA counterparts.

[Foss]

I have RDA slotted fronts on mine and they've been good. I'd buy them again. That price is a bit cheaper than I paid for mine with QFM HPX pads, but I wouldn't say unrealistically cheaper.

[e240]

looks like a good deal.

[DJKOR]

RDA brake rotors are surprisingly cheap for what's essentially a rather decent quality rotor. I'm not surprised at the cost. After running DBA and RDA, I can safely say that RDA may be cheap on price but not on quality.

[Andrew357]

RDA brake rotors are surprisingly cheap for what's essentially a rather decent quality rotor. I'm not surprised at the cost. After running DBA and RDA, I can safely say that RDA may be cheap on price but not on quality.

i will happily buy rda as my next replacements again

[e240]

Yup - the brake pads are pretty good too. Last time I got their front pads for 'bout $30....

RDA brake rotors are surprisingly cheap for what's essentially a rather decent quality rotor. I'm not surprised at the cost. After running DBA and RDA, I can safely say that RDA may be cheap on price but not on quality.

[METAL13]

well that settles it, once ive got my overtime pay in the bank i'll be getting a set and ill reply how i find the quality !

Now, to get someone to fit them

[e240]

DIY...Its really quite simple

[METAL13]

My only issue is bleeding the brakes ive never done it before....

Is there a tutorial on TOCAU ?

Otherwise ill get in touch with some mates and see if they can show me :)

[e240]

So you don't really need to bleed the brakes if just changing rotors and pads.

1) Jack up car and put on stands

2) Remove wheels

3) Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper bracket to the wheel hub (Not the bolts holding the sliding pin)

4) Remove caliper, don't twist the brake hose.

5) Remove and replace rotor - you might need a couple of bolts to extract the rotor if its abit stuck.

6) Use a G Clamp and press the caliper piston in. Watch that the fluid level doesn't overflow from the reservoir.

- usually better to leave one the pads in and press against the pad.

7) Replace new pads in the caliper and slide over the rotor, bolt the brackets back - make sure its tight.

8) If rotors are dirty, just clean them with some Turps.

I can do both sides in about 30 to 45 mins, but allow for up to 60mins if you haven't really done this before.

Don't step on the brakes when the caliper is off.

Bleeding - optional - if you get it dealer serviced, they do bleed every other service, but if not:

a. Make yourself a bleed bottle - I use a short length of rubber vacuum hose and a plastic drink bottle.

b. You need 2 persons, one to sit in the car and work the brake pedal and the other to actually bleed.

1) Get the whole car on stands and remove all 4 wheels.

2) Suck out all the old fluid in the reservoir - don't step on the brakes at this point.

3) top up the reservoir with fresh fluid

4) Get the correct size spanner - always use the ring and not the open end.

5) always start furthest from the Master Pump, so LR, RR, LF, RF

6) Put ring spanner over the bleed nipple and slip the pipe over the nipple

7) Get the person in the car to pump the brakes until the pedal is hard

8) When hard, the person should stop and keep a steady pressure on the pedal

9) Open the bleed nipple to release the pressure

10) The pedal will now sink to the floor - under no circumstance should the person in the car lift up - they MUST keep the pedal to the metal until you tighten the brake nipple. Repeat 3 - 4 more times.

11) Do all 4 corners

12) Always check the reservoir level after each side to make sure there's sufficient fluid, don't ever let the reservoir go empty.

13) I usually go two rounds but if just replacing fluid, once should be enough.

14) Make sure the fluid in the reservoir is between the lower and upper mark

15) I normally wash down the calipers and master pump (Put the cap on first!) with water as brake fluid is corrosive. Watch out that brake fluid does not touch your paint work....

For both, when putting your wheels on, make sure your re-torque correctly. Its not funny when you see one of your wheels fly past ahead of you.

Good luck

My only issue is bleeding the brakes ive never done it before....

Is there a tutorial on TOCAU ?

Otherwise ill get in touch with some mates and see if they can show me :)

[METAL13]

Cheers E240, That seems simple enough.

I'll get my dad to give me a hand when i get the rotor package !