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Posted

Hey guys, just wondering if someone could tell me the pro's (and cons, if there are any) of each intake system. Cheers :)

Posted

CONS: both have minimal performance gains, and cops will say BLA BLA BLA INTAKE BLA BLA BLA NOT ALLOWED BLA BLA BLA DEFECT BLA BLA BLA, but not really because as long as it is enclosed in a box it should be fine.

PROS: they sound awesome and feels like you are hitting vtak, and your engine bay will be like.. DAAAAMNNN 2GR NO SH*T ! I see a cold air intake, motec exhaust, its got a NOS fogger system and a T4 turbo, AIC controller, direct port nitrous injection, and a stand alone fuel management system....

  • Like 3
Posted

I just ordered a Fujita CAI just to be different. Also weapon R make a dragon intake for the American V6 Camrys. But I didn't get that cos the guy is a douche. My op

Posted

I just ordered a Fujita CAI just to be different. Also weapon R make a dragon intake for the American V6 Camrys. But I didn't get that cos the guy is a douche. My op

Oh ok cool, how much did the Fujita intake cost and where did you get it from?


Posted

I have a dc sports cai on mine. Which intake you choose will depend on what you want. Sri basically provides minimal restriction as the point where air is drawn into the engine is mounted high up near the firewall on the passenger side next to the inlet manifold.

The typhoon system I believe is a similar system that swirls the air within the inlet tubing. This supposedly helps with fuel and air mixing. Some people swear that these systems will increase fuel economy and power while others say they are a money burning gimmick.

A cai such as the fujita or dc sports kit mounts a pod filter below the passenger headlight with large diameter tubing up to the inlet manifold. This feeds air directly to the throttle body that is largely unaffected by engine bay temperature.

In short. Sri = minimum restriction, higher temperature with gaps around heat shield drawing air from high rear of the engine bay.

Cai = less restriction than factory setup but more than sri drawing air from front of the car near the foglight.

Typhoon = possibly better fuel economy but yet to be proven.

Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps.

  • Like 1
Posted

As jeffy said, none of these options will provide any noticeable horsepower gains but the sound is addictive.

Posted

Bangtown, where did you find that? Last I checked, they stopped making them.

Aaahhhhhhhh! Nah can still get them just can't get them sent here. Pays to know someone in the state that can send via government mail. :)

Try Option Stage

I think Andy auto stopped stocking them

DC one looks good too. I only chose this one cos everyone.has SRI's

  • Like 1
Posted

I just ordered a Fujita CAI just to be different. Also weapon R make a dragon intake for the American V6 Camrys. But I didn't get that cos the guy is a douche. My op

Oh ok cool, how much did the Fujita intake cost and where did you get it from?

Payed $260 and Change I recall. But I'm still waiting haha. The things we do

Posted

Another point to bear in mind is that when installed as per instructions the cai systems (fujita, dc sports) are not fed cool air directly, they suck it in through gaps in the plastic around the passenger guard, underbody guard and beside the radiator. I'm not sure but I think my setup would have been ingesting a lot of warm air from near the radiator as this seems to be where most of the air would come from when travelling at speed.

Solution - remove the foglight surround and VERY carefully cut out the flat panels above and below the horozontal "rib" to the inside of the foglight ( mine is 1st gen aurion, don't know about later models). Once this is done, you can rifit the surround and work out what can be cut out of the bumper. Be careful not to cut out the mounting points for the foglight itself. A little newspaper, masking tape and some matte black paint help disguise that you've even done anything. You would have to know what you were looking for to even notice mine. Subtlety helps avoid problems with mr plod.

  • Like 1
Posted

Another point to bear in mind is that when installed as per instructions the cai systems (fujita, dc sports) are not fed cool air directly, they suck it in through gaps in the plastic around the passenger guard, underbody guard and beside the radiator. I'm not sure but I think my setup would have been ingesting a lot of warm air from near the radiator as this seems to be where most of the air would come from when travelling at speed.

Solution - remove the foglight surround and VERY carefully cut out the flat panels above and below the horozontal "rib" to the inside of the foglight ( mine is 1st gen aurion, don't know about later models). Once this is done, you can rifit the surround and work out what can be cut out of the bumper. Be careful not to cut out the mounting points for the foglight itself. A little newspaper, masking tape and some matte black paint help disguise that you've even done anything. You would have to know what you were looking for to even notice mine. Subtlety helps avoid problems with mr plod.

Thanks Logan that is really useful I was a bit worried bout the heat behind the lights there. Any way you could PM me some pics of your holes mate?

Thanks again bud

Posted

I have an infra red thermometer, the temperature around the fog light area is around 5c cooler than on the battery area

  • Like 1
Posted

I have an infra red thermometer, the temperature around the fog light area is around 5c cooler than on the battery area

Cheers Ben that is great info

Posted

Short Ram Intake/Typhoon are the same thing (in terms of K&N products anyway)

From experience, my economy has been better since I installed mine nearly 12 months ago. Sound is mad, got an extra kw on the dyno.

Do it

Posted

Here you go Drew. Sorry bout the late response.

attachicon.gifIMAG0185.jpg

attachicon.gifIMAG0189.jpg

attachicon.gifIMAG0186.jpg

How do you go in the rain? Id imagine having a pod filter down that low and exposed, would get a lot of water thrown at it, especially if you happen to be travelling behind someone. Which wouldn't be too effective after a while...

Posted

Vipzr6, this is something I haven't found out yet (hasn't rained in months). The pod is positioned pretty much directly behind the foglight, whereas the area I cut out is inboard of the foglight so should be ok. It will get some moisture in wet weather but shouldn't be too much. Definitely no water crossings of more than 4 inches though (and even then, very slowly). Only other solution I could find was a "water bypass valve" which seems to be a higher restriction filter element mounted in the inlet tube further up in the engine bay. This will only work of the pod is fully submerged though. Also there is a waterproof bag that can be tied over the pod available. Don't know how much restriction it would add. I'm all ears if anyone has any ideas.

Posted

Vipzr6, this is something I haven't found out yet (hasn't rained in months). The pod is positioned pretty much directly behind the foglight, whereas the area I cut out is inboard of the foglight so should be ok. It will get some moisture in wet weather but shouldn't be too much. Definitely no water crossings of more than 4 inches though (and even then, very slowly). Only other solution I could find was a "water bypass valve" which seems to be a higher restriction filter element mounted in the inlet tube further up in the engine bay. This will only work of the pod is fully submerged though. Also there is a waterproof bag that can be tied over the pod available. Don't know how much restriction it would add. I'm all ears if anyone has any ideas.

I've got a pod filter in a similar location in the AE102 and I've never had any dramas with water etc, and I've had it on for a good 100,000km. Just don't be an idiot driving through lakes and you'll be fine. Everyone gets really antsy about low-mounted pod filters but at the end of the day you'd have to completely submerge the filter before you started sucking up any meaningful amount of water which would be a level probably halfway up your front bumper, at which point water would be coming in your doors....

  • Like 3
Posted

Good point hiro. I still check my filter every 5 -10 000 k's. If it looks too dirty, give it a blast with the air compressor. Don't really care if the filter element gets shabby and I have to buy another pod. Brings rise to a new question, how long can I expect before pod filter needs replacing? Interested in other members thoughts.

  • Like 1
Posted

Vipzr6, this is something I haven't found out yet (hasn't rained in months). The pod is positioned pretty much directly behind the foglight, whereas the area I cut out is inboard of the foglight so should be ok. It will get some moisture in wet weather but shouldn't be too much. Definitely no water crossings of more than 4 inches though (and even then, very slowly). Only other solution I could find was a "water bypass valve" which seems to be a higher restriction filter element mounted in the inlet tube further up in the engine bay. This will only work of the pod is fully submerged though. Also there is a waterproof bag that can be tied over the pod available. Don't know how much restriction it would add. I'm all ears if anyone has any ideas.

I've got a pod filter in a similar location in the AE102 and I've never had any dramas with water etc, and I've had it on for a good 100,000km. Just don't be an idiot driving through lakes and you'll be fine. Everyone gets really antsy about low-mounted pod filters but at the end of the day you'd have to completely submerge the filter before you started sucking up any meaningful amount of water which would be a level probably halfway up your front bumper, at which point water would be coming in your doors....

Thanks for all the info guys, I'm still gonna go ahead with the above install will keep you posted

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