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Fuel Help!


negatron
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Hi all!

MOnitoring the fuel consumption thread.

Seems that mine is sh!t indeed.

averaging about 350-380 per tank (yes thats right per tank)

I'm getting v6 economy out of my 1.8.

Any ideas what could be wrong? How can i fix it?

Will a piggy back (emanage / safc) that fiddles with the afr be able to help?

Edited by negatron
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Tried resetting your ECU?..

thats what i did and got heaps better economy

Hi all!

MOnitoring the fuel consumption thread.

Seems that mine is sh!t  indeed.

averaging about 350-380 per tank (yes thats right per tank)

I'm getting v6 economy out of my 1.8.

Any ideas what could be wrong? How can i fix it?

Will a piggy back (emanage / safc) that fiddles with the afr be able to help?

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Hi all!

MOnitoring the fuel consumption thread.

Seems that mine is sh!t  indeed.

averaging about 350-380 per tank (yes thats right per tank)

I'm getting v6 economy out of my 1.8.

Any ideas what could be wrong? How can i fix it?

Will a piggy back (emanage / safc) that fiddles with the afr be able to help?

perhaps this is linked to the nasty performance of your sportivo muffler negatron. I would say this is further indication that your ECU is to blame. If you have reset and it didnt do anything, i would be investigating a piggyback chip to fix your fuel curves, definitely running too rich. From what i know, Greddy Emanage is your cheapest option.

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I think that's the sort of economy to expect from the 4sp Auto when driven hard.

The Auto really needs to be 5 sp or cvt in order to have better fuel consumption.

The problem I see with the current 4 sp is that there's too great a step in revs between overdrive (4th) and 3rd. When driving hard overdrive isn't used so you're at high revs and high fuel consumption.

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have you modified the air intake? what consumption were you getting before? it sounds normal from what i have seen with autos being modified.

if your options are emanage or safc then the safc2 would be cheaper.

my car runs like that and i have been meaning to take it to toyota they said they would keep it for a few days and run some tests. maybe you can do this.

Edited by kcorro
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Will a piggy back (emanage / safc) that fiddles with the afr be able to help?

I was told an eManage is overkill on a Corolla but I recently went ahead and installed one anyway... I have yet to get through my first tank of fuel, but to give you an idea, here's an indication of how much it has helped:

I have done 460km using BP Ultimate and my fuel gauge is halfway between 1/4 full and 1/2 full... this includes frequent driving with the air-con on (hot spell in Melbourne at the moment) and lots of +5k shifts (I just installed a power mod afterall)... I'm estimating at least 550km before the red light, which equates to roughly 7.3L/100km...

As far as tuning your air-fuel ratios, I would think an SAFC is enough... I went eManage coz I thought I'd get a lot more power as well as fixing the a/f, but I didn't really get that much in the end...

Rudes

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Traditional Auto's use more fuel because of the ratio's they use. Eg, In manuals you have 5-6 different speeds these days allowing you to better pick the right gear for the conditions, older auto's like that in the Corolla have only 3-4 speeds, so immediately the car has to make do with less and is revving higher in lower gears to reach the same speeds.

Auto's also have a tendency to absorb more torque from the engine, so more acceleration is required to get to the same speed as a manual.

However, New Generation Auto's with CVT or more gears (Mercedes' 7 speed is a beaut!) are now proving to be just as efficient as manuals because they have a greater spread of ratio's.

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Will a piggy back (emanage / safc) that fiddles with the afr be able to help?

I was told an eManage is overkill on a Corolla but I recently went ahead and installed one anyway... I have yet to get through my first tank of fuel, but to give you an idea, here's an indication of how much it has helped:

I have done 460km using BP Ultimate and my fuel gauge is halfway between 1/4 full and 1/2 full... this includes frequent driving with the air-con on (hot spell in Melbourne at the moment) and lots of +5k shifts (I just installed a power mod afterall)... I'm estimating at least 550km before the red light, which equates to roughly 7.3L/100km...

As far as tuning your air-fuel ratios, I would think an SAFC is enough... I went eManage coz I thought I'd get a lot more power as well as fixing the a/f, but I didn't really get that much in the end...

Rudes

Hmm... if you don't mind me asking how much did the emanage + tune cost u in the end? and where did u get it done in melb?

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hehe i just got a very impressive 588 km out of my sprortivo with custom exhaust system and CAI

and that included thrashing of for the whole week hehe

im happy with that LOL

BUT that would make it roughly 10.5L per 100km wouldnt it

if i take it heaps easy all wek i can get it almst 700km easy

BUT where not talking about sportivos so just ignore it LOL

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I was getting like 350 ks out of a 55 litre premium tank, (all city driving so stop start and short distances <5k's), i did an ECU reset and now im getting around 450 ks out of 45 litres so like 550ks a tank, and this is driving the car hard 90% of the time

Toyota told me this is normal for city driving, and and AUTO

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somone told me once than when driving the car EASY and just normaly that a good tuned auto is better for fuel cosumtion cus you dont use any unnecesary revs between gears it only revs to the amount needed then changes straight away

i wonder i always beleived manuals are better but i am open minded on this one

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The auto definitely is happier cruising ... I guess we drive the wagon about 2/3 cruising, 1/3 hard driving, the worst economy we've seen was just on 10l/100km (550km to a tank) and the best has been a 7.1 (770-780km).

That 7.1 was the car fully loaded, air con on full, but with cruise control on ... we just did a similar trip last weekend (now with K&N panel and sports exhaust) and did a 7.2, which proves the auto loves to just amble along.

I definitely miss my manual Starlet for a fun, hard run.

Edited by Buddha
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so its true then at just a NORMAL cruising driving rate AUTOS are actually better for economy

but when it comes to driving just that little bit harder a little more often than not then manuals are better for economy

hmm sounds about right to me

im probably gonna get a blast in for saying that LOL

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I have gotten 7L/100km flat for thrashing my manual 1zz. If i drive like a grandma it is still around the 7 mark, best i have seen is 6.7 (this wasnt easy to do for me, hehe). This indicates i guess that i really need the fuel maps done because there isnt much difference between revving the car and changing gears at 2.5k. Hurry up and fill wallet, i want a new ECU!

I SAID FILL! :angry::angry::angry:

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ECU reset then use Shell Optimax Extreeme (100RON with Ethanol)

I just did 800kms floggin my 2ZZ to Toowoomba and back (highway) and a weeks worht of flogging through peak hour.

What fuel do you use now?

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hmm i havent seen these new fuels with ethanol out yet

except for the ONE that i currently live by wich is BOOST

does wonders for my car and its also 10c cheaper than every other servo in sydney

when all these other ones start coming out i might have to give them a go aswell

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ECU reset then use Shell Optimax Extreeme (100RON with Ethanol)

I just did 800kms floggin my 2ZZ to Toowoomba and back (highway) and a weeks worht of flogging through peak hour.

What fuel do you use now?

I'm using the 100RON stuff as well, am resetting the ecu again. hope it improves the feul econ. :(

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so its true then at just a NORMAL cruising driving rate AUTOS are actually better for economy

but when it comes to driving just that little bit harder a little more often than not then manuals are better for economy

hmm sounds about right to me

im probably gonna get a blast in for saying that LOL

I'm not going to blast you, but I think if you compare an easy-driven manual to an easy-driven auto, the manual will still give you better economy. However, if you compare a hard-driven manual to a hard-driven auto, you generally find the manual's advantage is even greater.

These comments are general in nature, obviously there are going to be exceptions (such as some of the newer autos and CVT's, as well as worn, faulty or poorly tuned manuals), but should be pretty much the case for Corollas.

Edited by Buddha
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its strange how different people get told different things

but my source is totally un reliable hahaha so im not even gonna argue

ill definatly take your word for it an beleive you LOL

You don't have to believe me ... just compare the fuel economy figures for any given model ... while the figures are not necessarily what you'd achieve in driving, the relativity between the manual and auto figures should be correct.

For a real world example, I owned a 91 Festiva manual hatch, I think the absolute worst I saw on a thrashing was 15km/l, once on a cool night being very particular about maintaining a constant speed on a clear highway, I actually achieved just on 20km/l. I traded that car on a 93 Festiva auto hatch (same model car, just an auto with air) and the absolute best I ever got out of it was 12 km/l :( .

The difference these days with much better autos is much less, but still there.

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So far so good.

test 1) Normal driving

Did about 200 kms on 100 RON then refilled to 2nd click.

Got about 8.8 per 100 kms

Test 2) Country drving with drags

Did about 350 kms on 100 RON then refilled to 2nd click

GOt about 9.8 per 100kms

going better :)

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So far so good.

test 1) Normal driving

Did about 200 kms on 100 RON then refilled to 2nd click.

Got about 8.8 per 100 kms

Test 2) Country drving with drags

Did about 350 kms on 100 RON then refilled to 2nd click

GOt about 9.8 per 100kms

going better  :)

now take out that SRI of yours and watch it go even better.

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