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Posted

G'Day,

I am posting this for my friends as they were having a problem signing up to the forum.

They have a 1995 Tarago thst is overheating.

They fitted a new thermostat first. Then a new radiator.and new fan.

They then had a bloke come and pressure test the radiator twice for a head gasket or cracked head with no positive results,

Is there a correct procedure to fill the coolant with these models and is there a bleed nipple anywhere to bleed the system like a Commodore has.

I always park my HJ75 with 2H motor facing uphill so the head is not left with air in it. Also heater in on position with fan off.

Thanks for any advise as they need the van to take their two girls to school.

I had a look in "search' there was a similar post but there was no conclusion to the post. TIA.


Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Has any attention been paid towards the radiator cap or water pump?

Thanks Trentmeyer23, for your reply.

My mistake the rad cap was replaced along with the theremostat  at the same time.

Also a new water pump was fitted when radiatior was done.

I was told this but I am a bit forgetful after having both knee joint replacements done 3 weeks ago,

They told me they would replace the hoses but unless the hose was collapsing it should not cause this problem,

Seems it is a 97model not 95.

Edited by HJ75 Diesel
change year model of vehicle,
Posted

97 toyota tarago, manual, its pretty much always run rough but a few weeks ago we got the aircon regassed and since then the radiator reservoir has been boiling its butt off and its losing water something terrible. There is no water in the oil as yet. So far we have replaced the heater hoses, radiator cap, water pump and clutch fan, radiator cap and new radiator fan we put new oil in the engine, new radiator we are afraid we may have blown a head. Had the pressure test the gauge never moved so pretty sure its not a head gasket. At a loss with it as its our primary car and we need it because of my daughters heart condition next thing is timing and a new overflow bottle.


  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hi

Normally the clutch fan is the reason why most TCR 10,11 Taragos overheat because the of wear and tear the RPMs slow down over time and cant maintain the manufacturers RPM specifications to keep the radiator temperature regulated and as a result the cooling system over heats. (example the clutch fan might be designed to spin the fan 1000 times a minute but after years of wear and tear it might only spin 300-500 times a minute hence the failure to maintain the regulated cooling temperature and the result of over heating problems)

I have replaced my TCR 10 clutch fan to regulate and maintain the cooling system, however i have also seen water boil in a many a reservoir/water bottle and this is normally caused by a break in the head gasket near a cylinder, and what happens is when the piston travels up and down in the cylinder the air compression or carbon monoxide or exhaust fumes in the cylinder escapes through the leak/break in the gasket and into the cooling system and the water heats up via the pistons repeated function and like a volcano the pressure looks for a place to escape which is the water reservoir/bottle and this is why the water is boiling and ends up here.

The more you drive the vehicle in this condition the worse the damage will be to the cylinder head and components, the reason why you didn't pick up any water in the oil or through the spark plug combustion chamber is because the break did not occur near a the spark plug water or oil jacket, but boiling water in the reservoir is a dead give away.

There is another test you can perform to detect carbon monoxide or exhaust fumes in the water or cooling system and that can be done by buying a head gasket test kit where you remove the radiator cap place the tube with blue chemical in the place of the radiator cap and turn on the engine and let it run and if there is carbon monoxide or exhaust fumes in the water the chemical will turn green indicating carbon monoxide or exhaust fumes are present confirming a head gasket break/leak. 

You need to reseal the head gasket if the break is small enough or change the head gasket and get the head machined etc.

Just a note if the blue chemical turns green instantly or really quick when you use the head gasket test kit it means the break is to big or server to reseal and needs to have have the gasket changed and cylinder head machined.

Cheers

 

Edited by Aries2016

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