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Posted

Hi all

I have recently bought 14 aurion atx

Just won know couple of think please 

1.what's average km should I get from my car on full tank? 

2.if fuel light comes on how many liters of fuel left in the tank? 

3.how many liters does car takes? 

 

Posted

1. Depends on driving style anywhere from long distance highway driving miss daisy 7-8L per 100km to average of 10 ish L per 100km to Traffic Light GP of 15+ L per 100km.

2. 15 Liters
3. 70 Liters

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2007 Aurion gets:

Around 7.6L/100kms @ 90KPH

Around 9.9L/100kms @ 120kph on a 600 km leg with a 30-40kph head wind. Went down to 8.9l/100kms on the return leg.


  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The newer generation Aurion are surprisingly economical for a V6 car. Before purchasing my Aurion, I toyed with the idea of getting the camry, then decided on the Aurion Instead.

I just love the driving dynamic of the V6 car. It feels solid and has heaps of grunt. 

Very happy with the V6.

Posted

I know that my fuel consumption on the open highway is dependent upon the number of overtakings between fuel stops.

With few overtakings at 100kph, I also achieved around 7.6L/100kms in my 2006 Aurion which was on the Newell Highway [flat country, not hilly]. 

Also adjusting driving style to better use the overtaking lanes and timing to overtake to minimise harder acceleration pays off in the fuel consumption. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Yesterday, 7.55L/100kms Brisbane to Warwick, then got an astounding 5.516L/100kms Warwick to Inglewood in very optimal conditions @ 100kph and no overtaking. Inglewood to Gurley went up to 8.186L/100kms. Different driving @ 110 kph and a few overtakings makes a difference. Gurley to Coonabarabran back to an estimated 7.3L/100kms with less overtaking. On the open highway, I mainly use cruise control then disconnect to slow down for the changed speed limits without the need to brake, in most cases.

Going to refuel in Wagga Wagga this afternoon, so expecting the longer driving distance will be around the expected 7.6L/100kms.

Posted

MY11 gets 12.5L around town, pretty sedate driving. Highway not sure yet as i couldnt work out how to bring up the consumption meter when i first bought the car driving back

Posted

If you are light on the foot it can reward you with excellent numbers. I have between 8-9lt around town. 

Freeway runs with good flow often yields 5ish .

Gotta love the V6 !

Posted (edited)

Thats better than factory figures Tony? I drive with a light foot and 12.5 is the best i can get which is reasonable for a 1500kg 200kw V6. Better than 19.5L i was getting in my previous car lol

Edited by Metal_Head
Posted
On 10/27/2017 at 7:59 AM, campbeam said:

expecting the longer driving distance will be around the expected 7.6L/100kms.

Ended up being 7.9L/100 kms over 576 kms so represents a good personal benchmark for sedate highway driving.

Posted

Me too - here in NZ, with a little urban driving, mostly on open rural roads and highways, but with hills. I average around 8.7 on short-ish runs, but drops to 8.3 on longer runs, and if I'm gentle it can get as low as 7.7 on a long flat run (Canterbury plains) . Gauge on mine currently says 8.6 ....

It's very, very good for a large V6 sedan, and fantastic combination of power and economy, hitting the throttle will flash past almost anything in the way... Even a fairly hard run over some of NZ's nastier roads through the mountains and hairpins, overtaking trucks etc, typically gives me around the official 9.3, but I do sometimes find the Sport mode a bit annoying.

But if you're struck in traffic on your daily commute, it's hard to get close to these numbers, a large engine and autobox just can't compete with a tiny manual (or an EV !) in a crawl.

Posted

Here are a few factors that can affect your fuel consumption, note that a few could be considered 'myths' but either way I thought they would be good to mention (in no particular order):

1. Engine condition - has it been serviced recently? Changed fuel filters etc..

2. Poor engine oil - this one might be considered myth but there are thoughts that if you use the wrong grade of oil  (too thick) at certain temperatures moving engine parts won't move as freely as they should which leads to greater use of petrol. 

3. Bad fuel quality - self explanatory, poor fuel quality can mean more fuel consumption.

4. Driving with the air-con on - this can lead to extra engine load hence more fuel consumption.

5. Bald tyres - less traction = more engine load = more fuel consumption.

6. Over loading - again fairly self-explanatory.

7. Driving style - drive like a mad man with your full flat to the floor all the time and your fuel consumption will naturally increase.

Hope these help. 

 

Posted

I have found that using premium 95 in my 2013 Presara (GSV50R) gives better fuel consumption than 91/92 octane. I generally average 7.5l / 100km. In my previous 2007 Camry Sportivo I regularly averaged 6.5 l/100km even when fully loaded using 95 octane.

Posted

Spend an extra $6 per tank for premium, which wouldve bought an extra 4.6 litres of 91 @ $1.30L

Then think how many km's 4.6 litres of 91 would got you..... Is premium actually that economical?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Metal_Head said:

Spend an extra $6 per tank for premium, which wouldve bought an extra 4.6 litres of 91 @ $1.30L

Then think how many km's 4.6 litres of 91 would got you..... Is premium actually that economical?

Premium can't hurt i guess, but for the money, it's not worth it or necessary in these cars.

Most Euro cars demand 95 as a minimum and for good reason, so they don't ping.

The Aurion will get by just fine with RON91.

I have been using E10 for a few years now and it gets as good a mileage you would from using 98, which i have used too.

Not worth the extra dough to fill the coffers of the petroleum bandits.

Posted (edited)

My imported 2grfe requires 95 ron. As per instructions from the Japanese manual.  In a car that weighs 1.7ton fitted with u660e (6 spd auto) Driving around town lightly i get around 11.5L/100. Highway drops to 8L/100

Edited by Thirteen
Posted
10 hours ago, Thirteen said:

My imported 2grfe requires 95 ron. As per instructions from the Japanese manual.  In a car that weighs 1.7ton fitted with u660e (6 spd auto) Driving around town lightly i get around 11.5L/100. Highway drops to 8L/100

If it's compatible with E10, you can use that instead of paying the highway robbery premium prices.

I don't get why your imported model requires premium anyway. Is it a higher compression or something ?

Posted
3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I don't get why your imported model requires premium anyway. Is it a higher compression or something ?

From what I have read it comes down to fuel quality particularly sulfur content. Apparently, Australian fuel is a poorer standard compared to EU standards. Also because of different octane measurements/standards, 87 octane fuel in USA is about the equivalent of 91 RON here in Australia.

Posted

We're currently sitting around 12.5L/100KM urban cycle, but I did change the air filter today - one already in the car was filthy. Holds around 10L/100KM highway. Bit more kick running on E10 over ULP.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jon Albiez said:

We're currently sitting around 12.5L/100KM urban cycle, but I did change the air filter today - one already in the car was filthy. Holds around 10L/100KM highway. Bit more kick running on E10 over ULP.

Noticed your other post indicating doubtful service history and engine sludge. New air filter should improve your fuel economy. Use of quality oils and regular servicing is highly recommended.

Posted
2 hours ago, campbeam said:

Noticed your other post indicating doubtful service history and engine sludge. New air filter should improve your fuel economy. Use of quality oils and regular servicing is highly recommended.

Service history is OK for the major ones (e.g. fuel filter at 150,000 and the major at 90,000). Not so some of the minor ones. I generally changed the oil every 15,000 in the Elantra with Penrite full synthetic and never had any engine or sludge issues - along with almost all its original compression. I might nudge that down to 10,000 with the Aurion given its tendency to sludge.

Posted
17 hours ago, Jon Albiez said:

Service history is OK for the major ones (e.g. fuel filter at 150,000 and the major at 90,000). Not so some of the minor ones. I generally changed the oil every 15,000 in the Elantra with Penrite full synthetic and never had any engine or sludge issues - along with almost all its original compression. I might nudge that down to 10,000 with the Aurion given its tendency to sludge.

I would even consider going lower.

Posted
20 hours ago, campbeam said:

Noticed your other post indicating doubtful service history and engine sludge. New air filter should improve your fuel economy. Use of quality oils and regular servicing is highly recommended.

Yeah the air filter wasn't the greatest, certainly not the worst I've seen but not great either. Needed to remove everything down to the throttle body to open the air box fully. Throttle body doesn't look too bad.

37 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

I would even consider going lower.

That's what I'm gaining from owners and their input. Appears Toyota designed a good engine but completely overestimated the service interval. Even my 34yo runabout has a 10,000KM interval!

Posted

Japanese fuel is higher quality. The cars are tuned for there respective markets. Most standard cars here are tuned for 91ron. The manual translated specifies high octane which in japan is 96ron. It runs absolutely fine on 95ron.

As far as e10 and highway robbery. E10 is a cheats methods of selling fuel and imo e10 is more highwa5t robbery than 100% petroleum. 

When i lived in perth tried out 100ron (ethanol mix) in a few of my race cars and would get nearly 30% less distance on the tank. Ive also noticed the same in running cars on 91 vs e10. I understand higher fuel costs a tad bit more perhaps 12c difference works out to around $4 more per tank. But i usually get about 50 to 100km more to a tank of solid fuel vs ethanol mix. If im spending all this money to buy a car then i have no problem buying good proper fluids. Filters and even fuel to ensure it always works and never gives me grief. Not saying paying for less quality will either but to cost difference is so marginal.

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