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Posted

I have problem with acceleration from 0 to 60 with high revs between 2k to 3.5k. Once I reach 60 and above car drives very good. So the problem is when I take off at traffic lights, the car does not go. It seems that the problem is between 1st to 3rd gears. The fuel consumption comes to about 15L and above. 

However sometimes when I start the car it drives and switches gears as normal. Fuel consumption comes down to around 12L, city driving and 7.5L – 8.5L on highway.

When the car has been taking for a drive, for some period of time and then I do reverse parking, I can hear noise coming from the front side of the passenger seat, just where the transmission is located. 

The noise is similar to a small motor of a kid's toy. 

The car has done almost 130k.

I did OBD check and it did not show any errors.

I've heard that in a similar situation, it is usually problem with the transmission valve body that needs to be replaced or fixed.

Has anyone done DIY repair of the transmission valve body and could make some suggestions?

I was looking for transmission mechanics in Melbourne a few car repair shops suggested  J.Pringle Automotive but after looking at their reviews I've changed my mind. If I don't find the problem myself I may take it to Top Shift Automatics or Fluidrive Automatic Transmissions. If anyone has a good experience with other transmission shops in Melbourne, please let me know.

I've found informative video on U660 transmission and may try to inspect the valve body myself, before taking it to the shop. I've thought taking to the Toyota service but then I think they don't fix/rebuild transmissions, only replace with new ones. I looked on eBay, the used valve body can cost around $700.

I have changed my spark plugs, cleaned throttle body and changed oil. I did change ATF as well about a year ago with Penrith ATF LV, Just whatever was in the ATF pan. I may think that the change of ATF killed my transmission at the end...

Also when the car does not accelerate I try to stop the car and move gears, from Park to Natural and Drive several times and sometime it fixes the problem.

Posted

Sorry to hear about your tranny grief. Few question:

1. Did the problem start before or after changing the ATF?

2. How did you change the ATF and how did you check the fluid level back then?

3. What's the fluid level like now?

No point in going to Toyota for the gearbox, they'll take it to a transmission specialist anyway, better go directly to a specialist yourself. Heard from several sources Knox Automatics in Rowville are pretty good. If I were you I'd review the ATF change and check the level first, but only if you're comfortable with the steps and know what you're doing.

Posted

The problem has started after the ATF change, at first it was all good, after 6,000 km, suddenly no acceleration. But sometimes the car drives well with no problem. 

I put back the same amount, what I got from the pan, changed filter as well.

Recently, I also  tried to level it up by warming ATF till 41 degrees, filled with more fluid then drained access, and even tried to to add an extra 200ml, I think it was suggested by someone in the forum. Unfortunately that did not help. 

Thank you, I will take a closer look at the Knox Automatics, their customer feedback looks excellent.

 

 

Posted

Right, so you did a drain & refill, not a full flush? You may have miscalculated the ATF amount when topping up. If you want to further dig into the issue google "U660E Automatic Transaxle pdf", you may be able to find the file available for download. Makes for a very interesting reading, including how to run various test on the gearbox. But regardless, I'd suggest you go to a reputable transmission workshop and see what they say. Good luck, hopefully you'll have it fixed without breaking the bank.


Posted

I have pentite LV fluid in mine, at the last drain I used it so there is a mix of WS fluid and the Penrite LV. It has been in for a year. That was the 3rd drain and refill and the car has 239 000km. My other Aurion has 120 000km and it has 1 refill of Penrite in it too. Both cars run perfectly.

Your symptoms don’t sound like any of the normal problems the U660 has. A guess is that the fluid level is too low. When I drain mine, 2.8 litres comes out each time.

Posted

Maybe there is not enough fluid in the  transmission drum. Even I did level check in the pan, do you think it would be a good idea to overfill with 3 litres more and then level it again? 

What would be the best way to make sure there is enough fluid in the drum?

Posted
16 hours ago, matt36415 said:

A guess is that the fluid level is too low.

U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc 

Suggest that you read the attached document a number of times so you fully comprehend the fluid adjustment process. It took me a few attempts to get it right.

What I learnt is the following:

1. Engine is running with transmission in Park.

2. After cycling through the gears, then undo the transmission drain bolt.

3. Transmission oil should stream out and then become just the a series of regular drops.

4. Refit and tighten the transmission drain bolt.

5. Turn off engine and add 200ml of ATF.

6. Repeat Steps 1-5 if considered necessary.

Posted
On 23/08/2018 at 1:12 PM, campbeam said:

It took me a few attempts to get it right.

How did you know that your first attempts were wrong? 

Posted

I used to rebuild commodore transmissions - long time ago. The reasons they died were fluid too low, fluid burnt, damage from hitting rocks...idiot drivers... never from too much fluid. When I drain and refill, I measure what comes out and replace the same and another 100ml - roughly. I am paranoid about the level being too low. I think that the worst thing that can happen with overfilling is that some fluid gets pushed out of the air breather hole and makes a mess. 

So I always go for too much fluid in a transmission rather than too little.

Posted
2 hours ago, DonaldP said:

How did you know that your first attempts were wrong? 

When I replaced the transmission filter [at 165K] , I just guessed how much ATF had drained out and replaced an equivalent amount. Next weekend, I drained too much ATF because I did the fluid level check incorrectly without the engine running. Gear changes were either rough or too slow to change. I then added 100ml of ATF the next few weekends until the gear changes were a lot better. I also kept re-reading a number of internet articles about checking the U660E transmission fluid level. Finally got all of the steps together in the right sequence, adjusted the fluid level correctly and gear changes were silky smooth. Since then over the past 18-24 months, I have drained and refilled the transmission pan a few times. Now part of my annual maintenance plan and time to do it again in the next month.

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, campbeam said:

When I replaced the transmission filter [at 165K] , I just guessed how much ATF had drained out and replaced an equivalent amount. Next weekend, I drained too much ATF because I did the fluid level check incorrectly without the engine running. Gear changes were either rough or too slow to change. I then added 100ml of ATF the next few weekends until the gear changes were a lot better. I also kept re-reading a number of internet articles about checking the U660E transmission fluid level. Finally got all of the steps together in the right sequence, adjusted the fluid level correctly and gear changes were silky smooth. Since then over the past 18-24 months, I have drained and refilled the transmission pan a few times. Now part of my annual maintenance plan and time to do it again in the next month.

 

Thank you for all the information. I did another refill last night, took car for a drive afterwords for sometime with several stops on the way, the car was going, accelerating very smooth.

I've thought that problem has been fixed. However this morning went for a drive with my family and same thing high revs at low speed. On red light while waiting, shifted gear between N and D for sometime. And acceleration went back to normal. But car still was not going/gliding as it is supposed to be, the take-offs were a bit heavy. 

Ok, now I think it is also something to do with the foot brake. I've noticed that most of the time when I start the car it moves like a tank or there is a boat behind. And other time when I start and move, the car goes very light and smooth.  This evening went for some drive starting and stopping with the foot brake on and off.

I may think there something to do with that foot brake, some times when I release the brake it goes as it should with excellent acceleration and then with another stop, start and foot brake  release there is some heaviness in the car and high fuel consumption.

I tried to look up for the brake hold up but could not find anything. What would be the best way to trouble shoot the foot brake. Do I need to check/adjust every wheel? I think this might be very tricky procedure.

Edited by DonaldP
Posted

There is nothing to adjust on the brakes. Possibly the slide pins are rusted and or stuck. Fixing this is about as hard as replacing brake pads. 

Posted

There could be a vacuum leak, hence why it affects the braking as well, the brake boost is connected to the same vacuum circuit as the rest of the engine. This could be why you get sluggish launch at low revs, weird brake pedal behavior, as well as bad fuel consumption. The symptoms should go away with higher revs as the manifold pressure normalises. Also with the tranny fluid, it's best that you do a full flush and not a half flush. You want the valve body and the torque converter to be fully drained. It only costs like $200 to do. You could have gunk or air pockets in the valve body.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

If you go to the mechanic, just bring your own ATF. 

Edited by krigeroz
Posted

Ok, the problem is with the reverse gear, there is something not holding it together or not switching/shifting as it should. When I am at the traffic lights, and I shift from P and R several times then to Drive, car accelerates as normal. The problem somewhere in the gear box, or transmission valve body. So nothing to do with foot brake as I've thought before. 

If I go to the mechanic I can supply him with 8L of PENRITE  LV Automatic Transmission Fluid, I think that would be enough if he decides to do a complete flush.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 12/25/2018 at 9:58 AM, Camry2020 said:

Any luck with fixing your issue? 

 

On 12/25/2018 at 9:58 AM, Camry2020 said:

Any luck with fixing your issue? 

I'm having same problems, i just dont get what is wrong

Posted
4 hours ago, cookie65 said:

 

I'm having same problems, i just dont get what is wrong

Is the problem the reverse gear selection or something else? Please describe in detail the problem scenario/s. Appreciate details of your vehicle model year, odometer reading etc. What transmission servicing has been done and when?

  • 11 months later...
Posted (edited)

Does anyone know what a drain and drop of the pan oil only in a U660E should yield in litres? Even better if cold amount is known as I’m curious do do one and refill with correct amount 

thanks 

Edited by Steeevo
More info
Posted
On 4/3/2024 at 7:40 PM, Steeevo said:

Does anyone know what a drain and drop of the pan oil only in a U660E should yield in litres? Even better if cold amount is known as I’m curious do do one and refill with correct amount 

thanks 

I did a drain and drop of the transmission ATF today and actually measured it. 1.250+1.050=2.3 litres.

When I last did this ATF change, I did do the procedure to get the correct ATF level then added 200ml as per the service bulletin. This is for my 40 series Aurion with a build date of Oct.2006.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

@campbeam

 

Cheers, was the 2.3 litres of ATF you got out cold? 
 

thanks again 

Posted
3 hours ago, Steeevo said:

@campbeam

 

Cheers, was the 2.3 litres of ATF you got out cold? 
 

thanks again 

Yes, cold. Ambient temperature would have been 25C, here in Brisbane, QLD. 

Coefficient of thermal expansion for oils and transmission fluids is around 0.0007 per degree C (0.07%/C). So, if you've got 12 liters in the pan, it will expand 0.0084 L per degree C. AFT operating temperature hovers between 175°F to 200°F (79°C to 93°C), but it's important to note that specific values can vary based on the make and model of your vehicle.

U660e fluid capacity including the torque convertor is approx. 6.3 litres.

Have fun playing with the data.

Posted

@campbeam

much appreciated, very interesting, it’s got me buggered as on the Toyota Estima groups everyone is quoting 1.6 litres cold for a drain and drop, now, these run the exact same drivetrain as the Aurion 2GR-FE and U660E combo, so in theory all figures should line up, I’m hedging my bets on your maths and techniques though, you seem well versed….

thanks again 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/22/2024 at 7:23 PM, Steeevo said:

@campbeam

much appreciated, very interesting, it’s got me buggered as on the Toyota Estima groups everyone is quoting 1.6 litres cold for a drain and drop, now, these run the exact same drivetrain as the Aurion 2GR-FE and U660E combo, so in theory all figures should line up, I’m hedging my bets on your maths and techniques though, you seem well versed….

thanks again 

Not every Estima is fitted with the 2GR-FE and U660e drivetrain. This is where you have to take care that information on the internet is applicable to your specific vehicle.

  • Like 1

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